The Landrover Discovery Td5 Thread

greenpilot

Hi,

I have gleaned a lot of info from fixing (a lot) and running a Td5 disco, so I thought I would share any info if anyone had any problems!!

Its going into the garage to fix.... a warped disc, broken right hand front spring, leaking Brake fluid, worn right hand hub, leaking gearbox nut, oil in ECU, etc etc etc.....never fecking rains but pours, eh?? :mad:

101sean

Hi Greenpilot, sounds like a heap of problems have built up there. Won't be that cheap, you can't replace bearings in D2 hubs for a start :rolleyes:

greenpilot

Yep, its a lot of problems all at once...BUT, once I get these sorted, It should be ok. I have changed the Injector Harness, and I have been cleaning out the red plug going to the ECU regularly. Its still flat at around 50mph, and its not tyhe turbo wastegate lever, as its moving freely, so it could be the MAP or MAF. I have bought the whole hub already....€200, but im going to replace both front springs together. The Egr is being blanked off by The Great One, on Saturday. Plus a full diff/gearbox oil change and full service. Tell me, after all this work, do you think I should keep the machine, or move it on?? Im not sure, as its a great workhorse, and I want to keep her right for a few years......Ill PM you my mobile, and you might give me a call.

P

101sean

If it's otherwise been reliable I'd hang on to it. If you've changed the injector harness the oil should stop coming throgh eventually. On mine I actually had to take the top off the ECU and tip the oil out but it still works fine :eek:

The performance is probably the MAF sensor, unplug it and see if it goes any better, if it does, tha MAF is dead. Only fit a genuine one.

If that doesn't fix it, when was the intercooler last flushed? The MAP sensor doesn't give trouble unless it's covered in crap ,try taking it out and cleaning it.

Blanking the egr will help but you're better off binning it completely.

OldGuysRule

Have had my td5 Disco ES for little over three years now and would really have to scratch my head to think of something I would prefer to get into every day. Have kept her serviced and sorted issues as they arose and after 60k with me, there are now only 93k miles on it, so long life left to go.

Keep it would be my recommendation

greenpilot

Hi,Got the Td5 serviced the other day, and got the EGR blanked off. But I noticed that the heat exchanger wasnt blanked off at either end. I know that it is now defunct, but does it matter anyway?? Orshould I get two more blanking plates??

Thanks, Paul

101sean

How has the pipe to the cooler and EGR valve been left? At the same time as blanking the exhaust manifold, the vacuum pipes to the EGR modulator(s) should be plugged. If not the EGR valve will still open and you'll waste boost pressure if the cross pipe has been left open.

In the long run you are better off ditching the whole system by fitting an EGR replacement pipe, at the same time removing the cooler and joining the water hoses (pre 02Td5s don't have the cooler)
Kits are cheap but may not contain the vacuum blanking plugs, this is a typical one - http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/PERFORMANCE/EGR_Blanking_Kits/EGR_Blanking_Kit_-_all_TD5.html

While we are on the subject of helping the engine to breath easier, you can replace the catalytic downpipe you have with a plain one, worth remembering if it goes (a plain one is 1/3 the price :eek:)

101sean

Here's a full breakdown on removing an EGR from Td5alive http://www.td5alive.com/docs/EGR%20bypass%20kit.pdf

Suckler

:mad::mad::mad: My Disco has performed impeccable since I bought it. Changed the fuel pressure regulator after it started leaking but thats the only trouble I ever had.
Recently it wont start for us; its not a battery problem. When the key is turned the starter doesn't engage. Been with a mechanic who says he hooked it up to a diagnostic but still couldn't find the problem. I feel like just replacing the starter and solenoid to see if that cures it

101sean

Does everything light up on the dash properly? No MIL or immobilser light?

First of all check the relays in the fuse box under the bonnet, you should hear one of them click when you try to start it. Check that the starter solenoid is getting the current from the relay. Pull all the relays out and clean the connectors while you are at it anyway.

If all that is OK, the starter is duff, bit of a weak point and they don't like being soaked in diesel from leaking FPRs either!

If your mechanic is any good he should have checked this, plugging in to diagnostics won't tell you anything about the starter unless there's a MIL or immobiliser problem in which case you'd have the warning lights.

Suckler

Everything lights up in full as normal. She could start no bother one day and then leave me standing the next. It sound like the solenoid to be honest. Not being there to check these things and diagnose over the phone is the worst part:mad:

101sean

Starters are Nippon Denso which are around €140 ish new but there's plenty of places that will recon or fix them for a lot less.

Suckler

101sean wrote: »

Starters are Nippon Denso which are around €140 ish new but there's plenty of places that will recon or fix them for a lot less.

:mad: Just checked the price of new starter and new fuel pump from paddocks. Bit more searching required. Not sure if I want to use ebay, saw a few that offered good savings on both.

101sean

If you are after a new fuel pump, it's one of those parts that's best to buy genuine, blue box ones don't last apparently.

greenpilot

OK,

Blanked off the EGR valve, got a full service. The disappearing brake fluid is down to a leaking clutch cylinder. So, next weekend Im getting new front shocks, new springs, new clutch cylinder, new Poly bushings all round, new rear disc brakes and new hub. And thats it.....if it doesnt go well after this....Im dumping it.

Oh, and it STILL goes into limp home mode for some reason, AFTER I hot a new Injector Harness....GGGGrrrrrrrrrr

101sean

Have you had it plugged in to have the faults read? How are you driving when it goes in to limp home? If under hard acceleration it could be the turbo wastegate sticking causing overboost which will shut the engine down.

greenpilot

Hi Folks (and Sean)

Right, got new springs and shocks for the front fitted. New rear disc brakes, new clutch slave cylinder (which solved the disappearing brake fluid problem) new hub. Now it needs a new track control arm. I have noticed that since the springs and the shocks went in, the ride has stiffened somewhat, making me feel the slightest road markings...is this normal?? Also, I still havent solved the damn car going into limp home mode. The Turbo waste gate actuater is not stiff, and I have a new harness.......Im lost!! any ideas??
Oh and I got new poly bushings all round.

101sean

If you've replaced everything it will feel a fair bit stiffer, probably like it should! The polybushes can make the ride a bit harder, depends on the make and grade, they should settle down a bit. Iffy track rod won't help the feel.

You need to get it plugged in, preferably via a laptop so live readings can be recorded to see what the parameters are when it goes to limp home. Can't remember whether I suggested this before but try taking out the IAT/IAP sensor on the inlet manifold and giving it a clean, they get gunked up and it's what measures the boost.

greenpilot

Hi Sean

I took off the MAT sensor yesterday and cleaned it off with contact cleaner, it was actually clean anyway, with a wee bit of oil on it. The problem remains. It starts off OK when cold, the turbo will kick in, but only around 2200rpm, then, as the jeep warms up, and just say i had stopped at lights or slowed right down, and then accelerated on, The problem returns, and Im lucky to get 55mph out of her, which is quite dangerous,as you do not know if you will have the power to overtake. The wastegate lever is not sticking, as i can move it with a vicegrips. It is going back to The Genie tomorrow for a new track rod, and then thats all the problems sorted. That is why the engine problem is so annoying, as it is a sweet Disco, a Special Vehicles Job, with unusual alloys and a nice lift...a real looker, which we use a lot on weekend for camping etc.....anyway, I hope to get it connected to a pc tomorrow and see what happens. Im going to fit a new MAT sensor anyway, just in case.

Regards,

Paul.

greenpilot

greenpilot wrote: »

Hi Sean

I took off the MAT sensor yesterday and cleaned it off with contact cleaner, it was actually clean anyway, with a wee bit of oil on it. The problem remains. It starts off OK when cold, the turbo will kick in, but only around 2200rpm, then, as the jeep warms up, and just say i had stopped at lights or slowed right down, and then accelerated on, The problem returns, and Im lucky to get 55mph out of her, which is quite dangerous,as you do not know if you will have the power to overtake. The wastegate lever is not sticking, as i can move it with a vicegrips. It is going back to The Genie tomorrow for a new track rod, and then thats all the problems sorted. That is why the engine problem is so annoying, as it is a sweet Disco, a Special Vehicles Job, with unusual alloys and a nice lift...a real looker, which we use a lot on weekend for camping etc.....anyway, I hope to get it connected to a pc tomorrow and see what happens. Im going to fit a new MAT sensor anyway, just in case.

Regards,

Paul.

Fuel Pressure regulator leaking!! This must be why the ECU cuts the power when it senses the loss of fuel pressure. Getting it replaced this week, and hopefully thats the end of it!!

P

101sean

That's good news (in a way!), was beginning to wonder if it was fuel related but waited for you to report back. They commonly fail around 100k, usually dripping diesel on the starter but not affecting performance initially. PITA to change on a Disco because of access. Later ones were improved and a better gasket used.

greenpilot

101sean wrote: »

That's good news (in a way!), was beginning to wonder if it was fuel related but waited for you to report back. They commonly fail around 100k, usually dripping diesel on the starter but not affecting performance initially. PITA to change on a Disco because of access. Later ones were improved and a better gasket used.

Hi Folks,
Im getting the new FPR fitted on saturday. The complete list of work done so far on the disco in the last month is as follows
Coil Springs fitted to replace air suspension
front right and left hub
full service
both right and left window regulators replaced (crappy spot welds dont last)
Injector loom replaced (oil was engressing to the ECU)
New Fuel Pump
New Right and left front springs
New right and left front Shocks
new polybushes allround
abs/hilldecent/traction control lights cleared
and next, thenew fuel pressure regulator and two new tyres....christ.

But, my question is.....should the new fuel pressure regulator solve my performance problems?? I couldnt get past 50mph on the way home today?? Does the ECU sense that there is a fuel pressure problem and then cut the power??

Thanks again folks
Paul K

101sean

No it doesn't read fuel pressure, the ecu doesn't see everything . The only way to be certain with fuel is to screw a pressure gauge into the fpr and see if you are getting 4 bar from the pump.

Disco2

Could also be the crank position sensor, fairly cheap fix and when they fail/seal fails can cause these problems.

greenpilot

Hi,

We believe it is the IAT sensor on the manifold...apparently the little bugger measures boost pressure also,

Im getting a new one this week,

p

101sean

Hope that sorts it.

A dead crank sensor is the only one that will stop a Td5, I have heard of swarf on them causing a misfire though. Reluctant starting can be caused by a failing starter motor messing with the signal from it, sends dirty electrical spikes up the loom.

Any other sensor failure means a Td5 will use a default map instead and be either down on performance or guzzle fuel which is why taking live readings (ideal method) or swapping components (what dealers do at your expense :rolleyes:) are the only way to sort it as most won't show up as a fault.

greenpilot

Hi Folks..... I finally solved the low power, "Kangarooing" problem on the td5.....MAF sensor!!!! Stuck a new one in yesterday and sweet jesus, the difference is unbelievable!! Serious low down torque, great acceleration, improved fuel economy and I dont need a six mile straight to overtake a cow anymore!! The disco is a dream to drive now.....Total list of work done on it is as follows..
New Fuel Pressure Regulator
New Front Shocks
New Springs all round
New discs and Brake Pads all round
New Tyres
Removed EGR
New Injector Harness
New Clutch Cylinder
New Gear and Diff Oils
Full Service
New Fuel Pump

Suckler

My Discovery is playing up again. The aul fella is using it at the moment. He went to start it one morning and immobiliser ( I suspect) wont allow it to start; it happened previously and I had put it down to bad starter connections but these have all been checked along with the battery. I've ben trying to read up oj this on line and it's not uncommon.
Seems like water gettting in to the BCU affects it. Can I simply buy a new BCU or ECU and plug them in? Will it affect how the key fob operates? This Has anyone ever had this issue?

101sean

You would need to get it plugged in, the BECM would need to learn the fob and the engine ECU needs to learn the BECM.

Suckler

Cheers Sean, been looing in to it further and it seems a comon fault. Trip to a Main Stealer in store.

101sean

Find an independent if you can, main dealers are generally hopeless and expensive (with one exception, can't remember who but it's in another thread)