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mini diggers

  • 09-02-2011 11:45am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭


    just wondering if many lads have their own diggers for doing bits nad pieces around the farm and what would ye reckon would be the smallest size digger that could be of any use, 3 ton?
    have an ancient 3 ton kubota at home its so slow to do anything that it would be impossible do any kind of drainage with it.. you'd only be in the field then when the track would come off..often thought if one could get a reliable old 4 to 5 ton you could do alot with it but then maybe you would be better just get a lad in for a few days, pay your money and be done with it


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭cjpm


    My neighbour has a Bobcat 337, it's 5 tonne. I saw her in action this summer. Mighty machine, good power. Good reach too for filling trailers. Haven't a clue about their reliability, but he was happy enough with it. Haven't a clue of price either.

    A rubber tyre digger is the handiest thing of all on a farm. We couldn't manage without ours, she's started 365 days a year!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 338 ✭✭ihatetractors


    Cousin has a 13toner and 3toner Jcb for his own jobs at weekends, got them cheap off a lad in a rush to sell. Neither haven't missed a beat, though they do get used most saturdays so do abit of going


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 74 ✭✭Nutcase


    you would be safer with an Ex 60 Hitachi that bit extra reach for those deeper drains and extra weight for any heavier jobs. We dug out our slurry tank with ours it was a 3 bay double it managed the best and they seem 2 be easy enough on fuel too.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    Nutcase wrote: »
    you would be safer with an Ex 60 Hitachi that bit extra reach for those deeper drains and extra weight for any heavier jobs. We dug out our slurry tank with ours it was a 3 bay double it managed the best and they seem 2 be easy enough on fuel too.

    ya id say they are a good job alright but they are fair pricey on donedeal, i think alot of farmers tend to go for them


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 74 ✭✭Nutcase


    im not sure of prices what price are they makin on done deal?? Not totally sure what ours cost it was rite few years ago! They are worth it though very handy about the farm. You can do your own shoring clean out your own drains. This year we reseed 20 acres of ground on a slope it hadnt been ploughd in over 60 years there were big stones in it that were twice the size of the digger bucket definetly wouldnt have fitted into the power linkbox so digger was definately handy. There was also old tree stumps on side of hill so used it to take them out 3 ton wouldnt have handled them. I have used a 3 ton also they are handy for certain jobs but 6 ton would be more useful imo!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 533 ✭✭✭towzer2010


    I've got a hitachi ex-100. It a 96 model and I've had it for 3 years. Like that I dug the tanks for a 3 bay double slatted shed. It was the first I'd ever driven one so it was a good learning curve. I've also opened all main drains with it and I'm slowly getting through draining the wettest of the fields.

    I wouldnt be without one now for all sorts of jobs. I'm putting in a road through some of the farm these days.

    When I do get round to change it I'll go for a 13 ton for that bit more power and reach.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    towzer2010 wrote: »
    I've got a hitachi ex-100. It a 96 model and I've had it for 3 years. Like that I dug the tanks for a 3 bay double slatted shed. It was the first I'd ever driven one so it was a good learning curve. I've also opened all main drains with it and I'm slowly getting through draining the wettest of the fields.

    I wouldnt be without one now for all sorts of jobs. I'm putting in a road through some of the farm these days.

    When I do get round to change it I'll go for a 13 ton for that bit more power and reach.

    jees that was a good start alright, ive heard before that the bigger digger are actually much handier to use than the smaller jerky mini diggers right or wrong, ive a friend who has an ex100 and whenever i mention an ex 60 he says anyone would be crazy to get one when they could probably get an ex 100 for the same price and it would be twice the machine
    did you pick your one up privately or buy from a dealer?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 533 ✭✭✭towzer2010


    I bought it from MG plant in Swinford. I didnt know anything about them at the time and I was nervous about buying without a guarantee.

    I'd agree with your friend. I've used an ex 60 since and it was nothing compared to the 100. But I've also used a ex135 and that was better again.

    I find the 100 is light enough on diesel as well and thats badly needed these days.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    just wondering if many lads have their own diggers for doing bits nad pieces around the farm and what would ye reckon would be the smallest size digger that could be of any use, 3 ton?
    have an ancient 3 ton kubota at home its so slow to do anything that it would be impossible do any kind of drainage with it.. you'd only be in the field then when the track would come off..often thought if one could get a reliable old 4 to 5 ton you could do alot with it but then maybe you would be better just get a lad in for a few days, pay your money and be done with it


    I have 3 tonne Kubota as well and it's a grand yoke for drainage nd the works. A bit slow on moving from job to job.
    A 1 metre bucket on a 3 tonne machine will work as fast as 1 metre bucket on a 30 tonne machine.. except for the reach. I'd say a 5-6 tonne machine would reach a bit longer.

    I have done loads of work with mine, drainage, leveling, around the slatted house and other work.

    Problem with bigger machines is the turn radius of the buckets is much great expecially with quick hitches...so you wind up making trenches out of drains...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    Figerty wrote: »
    I have 3 tonne Kubota as well and it's a grand yoke for drainage nd the works. A bit slow on moving from job to job.
    A 1 metre bucket on a 3 tonne machine will work as fast as 1 metre bucket on a 30 tonne machine.. except for the reach. I'd say a 5-6 tonne machine would reach a bit longer.

    I have done loads of work with mine, drainage, leveling, around the slatted house and other work.

    Problem with bigger machines is the turn radius of the buckets is much great expecially with quick hitches...so you wind up making trenches out of drains...

    what model have you
    i have an old kh-66...it would take you half the day to go from one end of the farm to the other and it tracks off to one side as well :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    I have a KH60 that I thought originally was KH66. Slow but solid.. had to drive it home once as I hadn't a trailer..1 1/4 miles took 1 and 1/4 hours.... 1 MPH¬!

    I bought it relatively cheap and did the rollers and put rubber tracks and other bits on it. I costs a few quid every year to keep it going, but I reckon in the five years I have had I have done more than enough work to justify it's cost; including maintenance.

    The final drive went last weekend. So I will have to rip it out, split the drive and hopefully replace only the bearings. The build quality is really excellent on this machine, but old age does have it's effect, so I expect to spend a few quid every year to keep it working.

    I have manuals for the KH66 electronically if you want them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    Figerty wrote: »
    I have a KH60 that I thought originally was KH66. Slow but solid.. had to drive it home once as I hadn't a trailer..1 1/4 miles took 1 and 1/4 hours.... 1 MPH¬!

    I bought it relatively cheap and did the rollers and put rubber tracks and other bits on it. I costs a few quid every year to keep it going, but I reckon in the five years I have had I have done more than enough work to justify it's cost; including maintenance.

    The final drive went last weekend. So I will have to rip it out, split the drive and hopefully replace only the bearings. The build quality is really excellent on this machine, but old age does have it's effect, so I expect to spend a few quid every year to keep it working.

    I have manuals for the KH66 electronically if you want them.

    no thanks
    I have a manual that i got from kubota some years ago, we had to replace a track a few years ago which was expensive and got a chap to redo one of the drive gears but she needs all new rollers, in fact she need too much done, still its a handy old yoke for small jobs..she lifts half ton bag still although under a bit of pressure :D
    here is a pic


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,571 ✭✭✭newmug


    I was looking at a few machines in Gaynors, Frenchpark. Anyone ever have any dealings with them? I wouldnt be that knowledgeable so nervous enough too!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    I worked out the price of the Kubota tracks when I got the machine. I got both the tracks and rollers in from Wales for the same price as 1 kubota track. I aslo got the sprockets and a few more bits as well for great value dropped to the door by courier.

    If you looking to by Rollers you can get them at about 1/3 the cost from Kubota. I can give you the addess. Tracks at the time cost me about €700 (rubber) as opposed to €1600 (steel) from Kubota. Rubber is a better option I am told.

    Whelans are very good for parts and sound lads but have to charge Kubota Prices. You have a workshorse of a digger there, a Jap quality built machine, simple to fix and operate. From what I hear a lot of newer machines aren't as good.

    I also have a parts manuals but there are links on the web for these.



    no thanks
    I have a manual that i got from kubota some years ago, we had to replace a track a few years ago which was expensive and got a chap to redo one of the drive gears but she needs all new rollers, in fact she need too much done, still its a handy old yoke for small jobs..she lifts half ton bag still although under a bit of pressure :D
    here is a pic


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    Figerty wrote: »
    I worked out the price of the Kubota tracks when I got the machine. I got both the tracks and rollers in from Wales for the same price as 1 kubota track. I aslo got the sprockets and a few more bits as well for great value dropped to the door by courier.

    If you looking to by Rollers you can get them at about 1/3 the cost from Kubota. I can give you the addess. Tracks at the time cost me about €700 (rubber) as opposed to €1600 (steel) from Kubota. Rubber is a better option I am told.

    Whelans are very good for parts and sound lads but have to charge Kubota Prices. You have a workshorse of a digger there, a Jap quality built machine, simple to fix and operate. From what I hear a lot of newer machines aren't as good.

    I also have a parts manuals but there are links on the web for these.

    ya sounds good, you might send that on, we got the track from whelans, steel, i think it was about a grand for 1 track :eek:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    Google Evans and Reid in Wales, they trade on the web as www.miniexcavatorcentre.com

    I dealt with Simon who was very helpful. Ask for a quotation and see how you get on. Once you know you model then you should be grand.


    You can also check the prices on the web for Kubota through Coleman Equipment http://www.colemanequip.com/Kubota_Parts.asp if you know the part number. I think you can get the parts manual online.

    I may have the parts manual from the web for a KH66, this gives you the part number so you can check the price. Kubota seem to have a world wide pricing. outside currency changes.

    ya sounds good, you might send that on, we got the track from whelans, steel, i think it was about a grand for 1 track :eek:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    I have an EX60-5 and in my opinion anything smaller that a 6 tonne is just frustrating to use. You would pick up a nice 120 now for handy money but they are heavy on diesel. The 60 is a miser compared to the bigger machines.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    kay 9 wrote: »
    I have an EX60-5 and in my opinion anything smaller that a 6 tonne is just frustrating to use. You would pick up a nice 120 now for handy money but they are heavy on diesel. The 60 is a miser compared to the bigger machines.

    so was a -5 the last version made as opposed to -1?
    there seems to be heaps of them on donedeal , there is a clean looking one up there for 20000 euro :eek: with alot of other around the 14k mark
    very expensive seems to me


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    The -5 was the last ones made in 01/02. Then the zx came along. The -1 and -5 were the best of them. -3 and -4 had electronic trouble. -2 I never seen many of. I paid 32k for mine 6 yrs ago but it was like new. I could have went for a -3 with 6000hrs for 17 that would probably have given trouble. Mate of mine has a 120-5 but is always complaining about how heavy she is on diesel. The 60 is great on diesel. Only downside is you lack the reach.
    Ps seen that one you speak of on donedeal. It looks clean alright but all them machines are resprayed after 3/4 yrs. You would know alot after drivin it. Its big enough money though. Looks like Mg plant in swinford. (Where I got mine)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 805 ✭✭✭BeeDI


    Track machine great in the field. Wheel digger perhaps a bit more flexible,in terms of usability in the yard as well as the field (part of the year at least).
    If you happen to have a fragmented farm, as many do, then getting your digger to the out places is much easier if it has wheels.
    Further plus for a wheel digger, is if don't happen to have a front loader in your tractor.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    kay 9 wrote: »
    I have an EX60-5 and in my opinion anything smaller that a 6 tonne is just frustrating to use. You would pick up a nice 120 now for handy money but they are heavy on diesel. The 60 is a miser compared to the bigger machines.

    That is a very fair point,, when I clean drains I can leave the material up on the wall on the opposite side of the drain. Other than that I am happy enough with the 3 tonne and it's easy to move in a trailer behind a jeep.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭Kilmac1


    We have a 2001 komastu pc130-6 got her cheap enough 6900 hours 7900 hours on her now only had her a year and a bit fairly quick , only problems we've had are had to change the chains and cogs as they are 10 years old and a few burst pipes. Very useful, best thing we've ever bought. Only 50 euro to get it brought any where we need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭djmc


    I had an old uho 52 hitachi worked fine but for the amount I used it and what parts cost I dont think it paid buying it.
    Had it for about ten years and in the end it just rotted in the field and I sold it for scrap
    Now if I need a digger I hire one from a local plant hire a 6 ton machine for about 200 a day and when paying that I tend to drive it for the day and get through some work.
    Do your sums lads on how much work you have for a machine around the farm
    Would you buy a silage outfit because you have to make silage every year
    Sometimes it might be cheaper hire or self drive when you take in the cost of depercation and upkeep of a machine.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    djmc wrote: »
    Now if I need a digger I hire one from a local plant hire a 6 ton machine for about 200 a day and when paying that I tend to drive it for the day and get through some work.

    Do they still require a ticket to rent a machine? (Just curious)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭djmc


    I was never asked for a ticket
    I would think in the current climate they would be glad to just hire it
    Does a farmer need a ticket to work on his own farm?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    djmc wrote: »
    I was never asked for a ticket
    I would think in the current climate they would be glad to just hire it
    Does a farmer need a ticket to work on his own farm?

    Not sure, that's why I was asking. I remember lads talking about safepass before and needing to do six months supervision under a qualified driver before getting their own machine ticket. But, I never looked into it in any depth.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    A good point. When I bought my machine I did the maths like you have listed. I had just taken over the farm, I know I would be building a slatted shed under the FWM scheme. The first year I bought the machine I did about six weeks work with it. That was about €6000 worth of work and I did a small bit of work for others on it also.

    Obviously I have to spend a bit of money doing maintenance. By the end of year two I was in the clear. Three years later and spending about 400-500 per year on bits and maintenance I think I am still up financially.

    The other thing is that the machine is there when I want it.
    Depreciation of the machine in the condition I bought not an issue, it looked shagged! It was in need of time and money. The guy that sold it valued the maintenance/repairs on Kubota Prices not on sourcing non OEM parts.

    It all depends on the value you can get on the machine to see if it finacially viable.
    djmc wrote: »
    I had an old uho 52 hitachi worked fine but for the amount I used it and what parts cost I dont think it paid buying it.
    Had it for about ten years and in the end it just rotted in the field and I sold it for scrap
    Now if I need a digger I hire one from a local plant hire a 6 ton machine for about 200 a day and when paying that I tend to drive it for the day and get through some work.
    Do your sums lads on how much work you have for a machine around the farm
    Would you buy a silage outfit because you have to make silage every year
    Sometimes it might be cheaper hire or self drive when you take in the cost of depercation and upkeep of a machine.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23 Hitachi120


    a quick question to you chaps that have ex100's or ex120's. what sort of gallons do the use on a days digging. id like to have some figures for both machines if possible.thanks in advance


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 533 ✭✭✭towzer2010


    Hitachi120 wrote: »
    a quick question to you chaps that have ex100's or ex120's. what sort of gallons do the use on a days digging. id like to have some figures for both machines if possible.thanks in advance

    Sorry H but I dont know really. Its a case of fill it up when its empty with me. Its light on fuel with the e mode on anyway. The tank is about 55 gallons and that lasts me about 2 days heavy use. A neighbour borrowed it for a few days and he said it was a good bit lighter on fuel than the FH 135 he used to have but you'd expect that.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 458 ✭✭kboc


    djmc wrote: »
    I had an old uho 52 hitachi worked fine but for the amount I used it and what parts cost I dont think it paid buying it.
    Had it for about ten years and in the end it just rotted in the field and I sold it for scrap
    Now if I need a digger I hire one from a local plant hire a 6 ton machine for about 200 a day and when paying that I tend to drive it for the day and get through some work.
    Do your sums lads on how much work you have for a machine around the farm
    Would you buy a silage outfit because you have to make silage every year
    Sometimes it might be cheaper hire or self drive when you take in the cost of depercation and upkeep of a machine.

    best point so far


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭Tora Bora


    djmc wrote: »
    I had an old uho 52 hitachi worked fine but for the amount I used it and what parts cost I dont think it paid buying it.
    Had it for about ten years and in the end it just rotted in the field and I sold it for scrap
    Now if I need a digger I hire one from a local plant hire a 6 ton machine for about 200 a day and when paying that I tend to drive it for the day and get through some work.
    Do your sums lads on how much work you have for a machine around the farm
    Would you buy a silage outfit because you have to make silage every year
    Sometimes it might be cheaper hire or self drive when you take in the cost of depercation and upkeep of a machine.

    Good point. Many a track machine rotting away in a heap of briars, for the want of a regular bit of use.
    That's why I believe a wheel digger is a more useful tool for a farmer. You can do a certain about of land work in the summer and use it in the yard in winter. If you have one, you will probably start it up a few times a week most weeks of the year. If you don't have a loader tractors you get even more use out of it.
    Hire in a track machine for the jobs needing one.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23 Hitachi120


    im a learner operator, so for an ex100 im wondering if id get away with about 10 gallons of diesel day for an 8 hour day on a nice low rev.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,238 ✭✭✭vincenzolorenzo


    10 gallons sounds very optimistic to me. Not an expert by any means but it does sound like very little


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,156 ✭✭✭Iwannahurl


    Whatever option you go for, just remember to be careful!



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    Iwannahurl wrote: »
    Whatever option you go for, just remember to be careful!


    Lucky for him his head broke the fall :D:D:D


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    Hitachi120 wrote: »
    im a learner operator, so for an ex100 im wondering if id get away with about 10 gallons of diesel day for an 8 hour day on a nice low rev.

    The ex100 holds 66 gallons of diesel. Working at full revs, it could probably operate for 16 hours on a full tank. That's over 4 gallons per hour. Driving it at low revs, you could get away with 2.5 to 3 gallons per hour.

    Those are bulk figures but realistic enough. It will really depend on how hard you're working the machine, what you're digging. You'll dig feck all unless you have the machine at at least 3/4 revs.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23 Hitachi120


    reilig wrote: »
    The ex100 holds 66 gallons of diesel. Working at full revs, it could probably operate for 16 hours on a full tank. That's over 4 gallons per hour. Driving it at low revs, you could get away with 2.5 to 3 gallons per hour.

    Those are bulk figures but realistic enough. It will really depend on how hard you're working the machine, what you're digging. You'll dig feck all unless you have the machine at at least 3/4 revs.

    thanks for the info reilig, i was hoping it would be less than you say, at the price of diesel.ive a good bit of work to do on the farm and im interested in learning to operate 1


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 533 ✭✭✭towzer2010


    Hitatchi120 don't do what I did and get to confident to quickly. I managed to knock an old barn by accident the first week I had it. Dad thought it was hilarious ...... not

    djmc point is a good one but it could be made about any machine. Neighbour of mine has a new 4wd Zetor for about 15 acres. Rarely comes out of the shed. I bought my digger in 07 and would have used it at least 200 days since so if i was renting one at €200 per day that would have cost around €40000.

    I paid €27500 for it and I was offered €14000 for mine recently but I have way to much still to do with it. As my dad used to say some of our land is arable but most is horrible.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    Final drive went on the Minidigger last week. Will cost about €400 to put right (couple of gears and will do the bearings now as I have it open).

    €400 is around 2 full days work, I have no problem with this as I have about 3 weeks work to do this year with draining, clearance and leveling work.

    If you buy a machine (especially and old one!) you have to expect to spend some money on them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,202 ✭✭✭Bitten & Hisses


    towzer2010 wrote: »
    point is a good one but it could be made about any machine. Neighbour of mine has a new 4wd Zetor for about 15 acres. Rarely comes out of the shed. I bought my digger in 07 and would have used it at least 200 days since so if i was renting one at €200 per day that would have cost around €40000.

    A big mistake of mine was not buying a 12 or 13-tonne machine in 2006. Since then, between farm buildings, miscellaneous bits and bobs and a dwelling house, I have spent at least 30K on plant hire. That said, if I were buying a machine now, I'd be seriously considering a 4-tonne mini digger. The local contractor has one and it's a really useful machine.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 23 Hitachi120


    great info lads, in reguards of holding there money incase id take a notion of selling in a year or 2 which would be the best to hold its money, an ex60, ex100 or ex120. im in too minds wheather to buy a 60 or 100.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    I'd say the Ex60s hold value better. They are still as much as a decent 120 or the likes.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,571 ✭✭✭newmug


    Figerty wrote: »
    Final drive went on the Minidigger last week. Will cost about €400 to put right (couple of gears and will do the bearings now as I have it open).

    €400 is around 2 full days work, I have no problem with this as I have about 3 weeks work to do this year with draining, clearance and leveling work.

    If you buy a machine (especially and old one!) you have to expect to spend some money on them.


    Speaking of spending money, whats involved in a service? I presume normal engine stuff, timing belt, oil + filters etc. Then pumps, seals, rings, bearings etc. What else?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    Of my head I can't put a number on it, but it's not huge money.

    Oill and Filters are not different to tractor parts price wise. Usually the price is small as the engines are three cylinders.

    I changed the air-filter lately and it was only around €20, diesel filter and Hydraulic filter were all reasonable also. Never did the timing belt it may be a chain.

    If the engine goes you can stick another engine handy enough. A diesel ford fiesta engine or other can be made to work I am told by a mechanic.

    Seals, pumps, and bearings are a rarity if the machine is sound. The bad news is on any machine when they go they are expensive usually because of the high quality of the parts when new.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,571 ✭✭✭newmug


    Figerty wrote: »
    Of my head I can't put a number on it, but it's not huge money.

    Oill and Filters are not different to tractor parts price wise. Usually the price is small as the engines are three cylinders.

    I changed the air-filter lately and it was only around €20, diesel filter and Hydraulic filter were all reasonable also. Never did the timing belt it may be a chain.

    If the engine goes you can stick another engine handy enough. A diesel ford fiesta engine or other can be made to work I am told by a mechanic.

    Seals, pumps, and bearings are a rarity if the machine is sound. The bad news is on any machine when they go they are expensive usually because of the high quality of the parts when new.



    Cheers Figerty. What about for a bigger machine, say a 100 or a 130?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭Kilmac1


    newmug wrote: »
    Cheers Figerty. What about for a bigger machine, say a 100 or a 130?

    weve a pc130 and shes 10 year old and weve a boy how used to work for a big road contractor and he does all our stuff and hs not to expensive just bits and bob's, but one thing he always says about pipes etc. is wait till they blow cause it could last 5 mins or 5 months. only problems weve had are tracks, quick hitch (usual after 7,000hrs) and thermostat stuck but that was it sitting over winter and komatsu's are prone to it when their left. it was the best thing weve ever bought after our disco 3, and only 50 euro to get it lifted and dropped to were ever we want.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27 Farmtrader


    Nutcase wrote: »
    you would be safer with an Ex 60 Hitachi that bit extra reach for those deeper drains and extra weight for any heavier jobs. We dug out our slurry tank with ours it was a 3 bay double it managed the best and they seem 2 be easy enough on fuel too.

    Go for the EX 60 but make sure it's a dash 5
    But depending on what you need to do a 3 or 4 ton can be pretty efficient.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 luc Belgium


    Hello.

    Can you thelle me the adress for the tracks?
    wat price? 700 for 2pieces?
    Do i need to replace the rollers or are they the same as for metal tracks?
    grts from belgium.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 luc Belgium


    Hello.

    Can you thelle me the adress for the tracks?
    wat price? 700 for 2pieces?
    Do i need to replace the rollers or are they the same as for metal tracks?
    grts from belgium.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,403 ✭✭✭kincaid


    i purchased a 01 ex40 hitachi, got 3 buckets with it, good condition mighty little machine,
    i give 5000stg for it think i done alright


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