Replace turbo Volvo S40 1.6D - quoted ~ €2K by dealer

hefty_langer

Turbo died in the S40 ('06, 69,000 miles).
Dropped it in for a diagnostic, and just got the dreaded call from the main dealer, the turbo has completely failed, dealer said it should not be driven.
He estimated it'll be about €2000 all-in to get it sorted.
approx €1K for the turbo and a day's labour (mentioned draining all oil, cleaning out sump, new filter and a few other odds and ends) I was too shocked at the time to remember all that was said.
He has gone to price it up.

This seems crazy expensive, but I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. Have a usual indie I guy I normally go to and he told me to bring it to Volvo for the diagnostic at least. Anyone got any experience in this turbo replacement and the costs involved?
Any opinions on reconditioned turbos?

hefty_langer

ok callback from dealer,

Pricelist (all prices not including VAT):
Turob 921
Gasket 6
Sump Gasket 57
Oil Filter 15
Oil Flush 15
Replace Oil 70

Labour 720

---

1804 + 13.5% VAT €2044 Total.

sweet mother of Mary.

lol at the user name :pac:

Unfortunately that price isn't out of the way for a main dealer turbo change. A reconditioned unit might be 50% of the price and an indy may well charge a few hundred less to do it. Changing a turbo is not too bad a job.

What symptoms were you seeing to prompt the mechanic to advise you to go to volvo for diagnostics. Any mechanic should be able to diagnose a failing turbo fairly easily.

Was the car serviced as per manufacturers intervals from new by the way ?

giant_midget

I had the same problem on my 02 s40 a few yearsago. the turbo went on it @ 140,000 i got a turbo off ebay for 400euro and payed a friend of a friend 200 to fit it

I would suggest asking around people in work and friends, someone usually knows a good mechanic, This is the route i would go. Can get this all working for under €1,000

hefty_langer

Had seen originally a couple of weeks back an intermittent loss of power, rarely enough. Car was laid up for a fortnight over Christmas and this week there was a constant loss of power, turbo wasn't kicking in, wouldn't rev past 3000rpm etc. No black smoke, oil consumption was normal.

Dealer mentioned that they have seen this in the past when fully synthetic oil is not used when servicing. My last service was with an indie garage, previous to that it had a full Volvo service history.

hefty_langer

hefty_langer wrote: »

Dealer mentioned that they have seen this in the past when fully synthetic oil is not used when servicing. My last service was with an indie garage, previous to that it had a full Volvo service history.

How recent was the last service ? One non fully syn oil change wouldn't wreck a turbo that quickly.

hefty_langer

jesusinaglanza wrote: »

I would suggest asking around people in work and friends, someone usually knows a good mechanic, This is the route i would go. Can get this all working for under €1,000

Yeah I was thinking along the same lines but the dealer has warned that by just replacing the turbo, you could be looking at the same issue again in a couple of months time if the root-cause of the failure was not found (e.g blocked oil supply or drain lines to the turbo)

hefty_langer

RoverJames wrote: »

How recent was the last service ? One non fully syn oil change wouldn't wreck a turbo that quickly.

Last service @ 61K, 6 months back (June)

hefty_langer

hefty_langer wrote: »

Yeah I was thinking along the same lines but the dealer has warned that by just replacing the turbo, you could be looking at the same issue again in a couple of months time if the root-cause of the failure was not found (e.g blocked oil supply or drain lines to the turbo)

Decent mechanic won't just change the turbo and let the car out the door again.

giant_midget

hefty_langer wrote: »

Yeah I was thinking along the same lines but the dealer has warned that by just replacing the turbo, you could be looking at the same issue again in a couple of months time if the root-cause of the failure was not found (e.g blocked oil supply or drain lines to the turbo)

From what i can remember the guy that did mine cleaned out the intercooler pipes and the turbo oil feed return line?? Anyway my point is he did everything that the garage would do all for 200euro and me handing him the turbo and the gaskets...the car worked 100% after this and never had any further problems

mullingar

Turbo's rarely give trouble, its unfortunately the victim of another part failing, usually Oil starvation caused by blocked oil feed or oil return lines to the turbo

Turbos spin on a film of oil and the spool speeds are in the 10's of thousands rpm, so a regular ball bearing would disintegrate under those speeds.

This film of lubricating oil is Extremely important.

If the oil feed or the oil return line gets blocked- it cooks the little film of oil that remains and the spindle siezes as it cant get fresh oil to lubricate the spindle
If the wrong oil is used - the oil viscosity doesnt allow the turbo to spool correctly and could clog.

hefty_langer

Thanks I'm learning alot about turbos today! Information that I never thought I would need... Ordered the turbo, time to bite the bullet.

Thanks Lads for all the opinions and advice. Appreciate it.

mullingar

hefty_langer wrote: »

Thanks I'm learning alot about turbos today! Information that I never thought I would need... Ordered the turbo, time to bite the bullet.

Thanks Lads for all the opinions and advice. Appreciate it.

Where did you order the turbo from?

AFAIK Reconditioned ones (with warranty) can be got for around €450-€500

hefty_langer

Spoke to the independant garage and he said he'll sort it out for me. It will be a recon turbo, not sure about final cost.

bazz26

If the main dealer is doing the repair then it is very unlikely they will use parts that the OP buys elsewhere.

If it is an indy that is doing the job then it might be worth sending a PM to Hellraiser, he might be able to do something for you on OEM parts.

hefty_langer

Thanks Bazz

Leonard Hofstadter

One of the causes of turbo failure (and it's not common on those engines) is when people don't treat them correctly - they need to be 'wound down' after a long drive or where the engine/turbo was worked hard.

They need to be left idle for a minute after being driven on a main road/motorway so that the turbo can cool down and spin much slower.

Turning the car straight off after a decent drive is the worst possible thing to do to a turbocharged engine.

Too late for the OP now, and I'm not saying the OP didn't do this, but something to bear in mind with turbocharged engines or either the petrol or diesel variety.

giant_midget

hefty_langer wrote: »

Spoke to the independant garage and he said he'll sort it out for me. It will be a recon turbo, not sure about final cost.

Fair play to you man, that is using the head. You will save a fortune.

giant_midget

captainspeed wrote: »

One of the causes of turbo failure (and it's not common on those engines) is when people don't treat them correctly - they need to be 'wound down' after a long drive or where the engine/turbo was worked hard.

They need to be left idle for a minute after being driven on a main road/motorway so that the turbo can cool down and spin much slower.

Turning the car straight off after a decent drive is the worst possible thing to do to a turbocharged engine.

Too late for the OP now, and I'm not saying the OP didn't do this, but something to bear in mind with turbocharged engines or either the petrol or diesel variety.

I understand your logic on the process of letting a turbo cool down slowly, this can be achieved by "taking it handy" on the last few mins of your drive..

I had 3 jap cars with turbo timers...waste of money in my opinion.. if you take it handy on the last few mins driving you can shut the engine off and no risk of damage

Row

Its very important on these dv6 engines to use the correct fully syn low ash oil.
If your getting your garage to replace ensure they remove the oil pickup strainer in the sump and clean/replace it as 9 times out of 10 on these this causes oil starvation.

1)Remove sump and clean/replace oil pickup strainer.
2)replace/blowout the oil feed/return to turbo pipes.
3)There is also strainer in the turbo oil feed pipe that would also need to be cleaned (Peugeot sometimes remove this on line strainer after a turbo failure)
4)A full engine flush and renew with new fully syn oil.
5)bleed the turbo before starting the engine.

I have heard of so many garages fitting new turbos which have blown within minutes after starting the engine..... all because they did'nt follow the correct procedures....:eek:

I'll see if i can find another post here on the same problem with a list of procedures to follow when changing a turbo on these engines.
Ron.

Row

Found it....:)
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056089813&page=3

The PSA 1.6HDi, DV6TED4 engine is a highly sophisticated low emission, high power diesel unit. It is used in many different applications; Citroen, Ford, Mazda, Mini, Peugeot and Volvo.
Due to the engine being clean and powerful, it is designed to operate at high temperatures, which demands the very best lubricants. These lubricants must be maintained in peak condition and PSA have fitted an in-line oil filter to the turbo and an integral oil cooler/oil filter to this engine to ensure this. However there is a drawback to this; reports in the field indicate that if the engine has been operated with the oil level below normal limits, this may potentially cause a high concentration of carbon in the oil. This may then lead to blockage of the in-line filter, oil cooler and main oil filter, which will eventually bring on premature turbo failure. The vacuum pump may also suffer from this same type of contamination.
However, due to its high operating speeds (230,000 revs per minute) the turbo will usually be the first to show signs of damage. This can happen from 30,000 miles onwards if the oil level and correct oil change intervals/procedure have not been adhered to.
Experience to date suggests that the carbon build up in this application is particularly difficult to remove.
To try to eliminate the potential for further turbo failure, the following MUST be undertaken by the garage, in addition to the normal recommended turbo fitting instructions:

• TURBO OIL FEED PIPE & BANJO BOLTS MUST BE CHANGED.
• OIL PUMP SHOULD BE REMOVED AND CHECKED.
• SUMP MUST BE REMOVED AND OIL STRAINER (PICK UP) SHOULD BE CLEANED/REPLACED BEFORE RE-FITTING NEW TURBO TO REMOVE RESIDUAL CARBON/SLUDGE BUILD UP.
• OIL COOLER AND FILTER ASSEMBLY SHOULD BE REMOVED AND CLEANED.
• REMOVE CHARGE AIR COOLER, DRAIN OFF ANY OIL INSIDE AND CLEAN THOROUGHLY.
• CHECK AND CLEAN ALL INLET AND OUTLET HOSES.
• IF OIL HAS LEAKED FROM PREVIOUSLY DAMAGED TURBO OR ENGINE INTO EXHAUST, CHECK EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR CONTAMINATION/BLOCKAGE (CATALYST, DPF etc.)
• REMOVE BRAKE VACUUM PUMP TO CHECK FOR DEBRIS/CARBON AND CLEAN AS NECESSARY.
• FIT NEW OIL FILTER AND OIL.
• CHECK FUEL INJECTOR GASKETS ARE NOT BURNT OR COMPROMISED. REPLACE AS NECESSARY
• OIL FLOW MUST BE CHECKED:
1. FIT TURBO TO ENGINE LEAVING OIL RETURN PIPE OFF
2. INSTALL A LONGER OIL RETURN LINE AND FEED INTO SUITABLE CONTAINER
3. START ENGINE AND IDLE FOR 60 SECONDS, THEN SWITCH OFF ENGINE
4. MEASURE VOLUME OF OIL IN CONTAINER - 60 SECONDS OF IDLE SHOULD PRODUCE AT LEAST 0.3 LITRES OF OIL.
5. REPEAT TEST TWO OR THREE TIMES TO CONFIRM OIL FLOW IS CORRECT
6. DURING THIS TEST, DO NOT ALLOW ENGINE TO RUN BELOW MINIMUM OIL LEVEL!!
7. VEHICLE SHOULD BE DRIVEN 20 to 30 MILES THEN THE OIL/FILTER REPLACED AGAIN.

Another thing a peugeot mechanic was telling me is that they usally remove the strainer (altogether) in the turbo feed pipe behind the dpf.


And here is more.

OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE ON ALL DV6 ENGINES

It is necessary to follow a specific oil change procedure on all DV6 and DV6U engines so as to ensure that no used oil remains to mix with the new oil.

The following method must be used:

• The engine oil temperature must be at least 50°C :
- the engine oil temperature is considered to be at 50°C when the water temperature indicator is between 80°C and 90°C or the cooling fan has cut in
• ensure that the vehicle is level (side to side and fore and aft)
• remove the oil filter to allow the circuit to drain completely
• remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick
• remove the drain plug
• allow the oil to drain by gravity for at least 10 minutes (DO NOT USE SUCTION METHODS)
• fit a new oil filter
• refit the drain plug with a new sealing washer
• fill the engine with quantity of oil recommended for the engine
• refit the oil filler cap and the dipstick
• run the engine at idle until the oil pressure warning lamp goes out (about 1 minute)
• wait 5 minutes
• check the oil level using the dipstick: the level should be as close as possible to, but not exceeding the maximum mark (1) so as to be between (1) and (3)

For information, the lower mark (2) = Min (0%) the upper mark (1) = Max (100%) the intermediate mark (3) = ¾
4 of 4

CONSEQUENCES OF NOT KEEPING TO THE OIL CHANGE INTERVALS

If the customer does not have the oil changed at the recommended intervals, the oil will become excessively polluted and will no longer ensure the correct lubrication of the engine. One of the first consequences is inadequate lubrication of the turbocharger bearings causing a failure which is repeated after the turbocharger is replaced. Subsequent symptoms resulting from the reduced level of lubrication will be a noisy engine and then destruction of the engine.

We remind you that if the customer does not keep to the servicing intervals recommended in the Maintenance and Guarantee Guide, the customer will be responsible for the durability of the mechanical parts of the engine.
In this case, the any related repairs needed are not covered by the new vehicle warranty.

CONSEQUENCES OF NOT FOLLOWING THE OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE

If the oil changes are not done as described above, all deposits of old oil will not be removed and will very quickly pollute the new oil, accelerating the ageing of the oil in the engine lubrication circuit (even causing the oil to congeal).

The consequences for the engine are the same as if the oil change intervals are not observed. As a result, any related repairs needed are not covered under the new vehicle warranty.


Quote from an independent garage....
There are big problems with poor oil change routines on 1.6HDi's causing oil clogging in cylinder head galleries, turbo supply lubrication pipes etc which is the cause for repeated turbo failure.

When replacing a failed turbo it is imperitive to replace the oil supply/return pipes. You also need to remove the sump and check the gauze on on the pump for any blockages.

Finally a good check so see if there is serious internal blockages, remove the brake vacuum pump - there's a little gauze inside that. If that has signs of blockage then you've got some serious internal clogging going on.

We've had a brand new turbo literally fail within 100 mile from the impellor seizing up and the nut which secures it on the shaft coming undone and wedging in the fan blades. This particular one was an extreme case and ended up having a new engine!

SouperComputer

captainspeed wrote: »

One of the causes of turbo failure (and it's not common on those engines) is when people don't treat them correctly - they need to be 'wound down' after a long drive or where the engine/turbo was worked hard.

They need to be left idle for a minute after being driven on a main road/motorway so that the turbo can cool down and spin much slower.

Turning the car straight off after a decent drive is the worst possible thing to do to a turbocharged engine.

Too late for the OP now, and I'm not saying the OP didn't do this, but something to bear in mind with turbocharged engines or either the petrol or diesel variety.

For 99% of people doing everyday driving those days are gone to be honest. Semi modern watercooled turbos rarely coke up unless you really REALLY abuse them. By abuse I mean running the wrong oil, stretching the change intervals too far, or wringing the bejasus out of the thing on full boost and shutting it down right there and then. Long drives alone arent a problem, you are unlikely to be boosting much anyway and as others have said the couple of mins pootlng round at the end of your journey is plenty of time to get things cooled down if you did happen to be "keepin hurrr lit boss".

It won't do any harm to leave your turbocharged car idle for a while if you want that warm fuzzy feeling inside, but really its not necessary unless you are driving very, very hard, as in track day hard.

bmw535d

SouperComputer wrote: »

For 99% of people doing everyday driving those days are gone to be honest. Semi modern watercooled turbos rarely coke up unless you really REALLY abuse them. By abuse I mean running the wrong oil, stretching the change intervals too far, or wringing the bejasus out of the thing on full boost and shutting it down right there and then. Long drives alone arent a problem, you are unlikely to be boosting much anyway and as others have said the couple of mins pootlng round at the end of your journey is plenty of time to get things cooled down if you did happen to be "keepin hurrr lit boss".

It won't do any harm to leave your turbocharged car idle for a while if you want that warm fuzzy feeling inside, but really its not necessary unless you are driving very, very hard, as in track day hard.

i agree, these days its much more important to let the car heat up a bit to get the oil nice and thin before you spool the turbo up to full boost.

Row

Row wrote: »

............

OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE ON ALL DV6 ENGINES

..............
• remove the oil filter to allow the circuit to drain completely
• remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick
• remove the drain plug
• allow the oil to drain by gravity for at least 10 minutes (DO NOT USE SUCTION METHODS)
•...................

tasty info there Row
Where is the oil filter on these engines ? Not on the bottom of the engine I take it if they are advising you to remove it prior to draining the oil. I like manufacturers recommending gravity draining as opposed to suction. I reckon though lots of folks in garages use suction on all cars out of laziness.

JJJJNR

Cool thread so does the engine oil actually enter the turbo I never knew that? whats an oil catch can for, would it be a worthwhile investment.

While on the subject there's a new sound coming from the engine area when I change gear I hear a whoosh something like a dump valve?? it could have been there all along but its noticeable these days. Also get a siren sound on the colder mornings, this could be the oil in the turbo being cold at a guess.

Any ideas

JJJJNR

JJJJNR wrote: »

Cool thread so does the engine oil actually enter the turbo I never knew that? whats an oil catch can for, would it be a worthwhile investment.

In most cars some oil is carried in through the induction system by breather pipes venting into the air intake. Some cars this can be problematic to the induction set up if there are valves and flaps etc in there, an oil catch tank is routed in series with the breather line (as in cut the breather line and route one side into the catch tank and the other side to the outlet). The oil is then caught in the tank, most of it anyway.

An oil catch tank has f all to with turbo failing due to oil starvation

JJJJNR

Yeah I don't really know myself ! getting freaked out now because my car has 190,000 km on and just want to keep it going, not sure if just regular oil changes at the indy are enough for such a complicated engine. 2.0Tdi

JJJJNR

JJJJNR wrote: »

Yeah I don't really know myself ! getting freaked out now because my car has 190,000 km on and just want to keep it going, not sure if just regular oil changes at the indy are enough for such a complicated engine. 2.0Tdi

If he is using the correct oil it should be fine, not much else can be done if the changes are regular enough and the car treated well. Not much you can do to avoid injector, fuel pump, DMF trouble etc.

What are you driving that has such a complicated engine ?

Plug

Replace turbo Volvo S40 1.6D translated into replace turbo in ford focus 1.6D:rolleyes: Its piss handy to do and thats massive labour, I'd charge about €100 labour for that. Sump gasket? Never even knew they even had them and I've pulled them off a few times. Your getting robbed. i remember the price of the turbo from ford and it was only about €600.

Plug

Plug wrote: »

Its piss handy to do and thats massive labour, I'd charge about €100 labour for that............ Your getting robbed. i remember the price of the turbo from ford and it was only about €600.

€600 for a new turbo supplied and fitted from Ford ?

€100 labour as a nixer or if you were the dude writing up the invoice in the garage ?

Plug

No way just the price for the turbo:D

€100 labour as a nixer, I've done a few before and they are piss handy.

shamwari

For those of you driving Ford powered machines, Ford issued a TSB for their instances of the DV6 engine which is almost word identical to the one posted above.

Can I ask Row and Plug a question: do you find turbo failure confined to 110bhp instances of this engine rather than the 90. I have a theory behind this....;)

Plug

shamwari wrote: »

For those of you driving Ford powered machines, Ford issued a TSB for their instances of the DV6 engine which is almost word identical to the one posted above.

Can I ask Row and Plug a question: do you find turbo failure confined to 110bhp instances of this engine rather than the 90. I have a theory behind this....;)

I've only seen them fail on the 90BHP but thats only because its alot more common.
Whats your theory?

GTE

bmw535d wrote: »

i agree, these days its much more important to let the car heat up a bit to get the oil nice and thin before you spool the turbo up to full boost.

I agree. Just to add to that for clarity warming the engine is not to be done by letting the car idle for 20 mins. For my more old school diesel it wont warm up in the first place and secondly stuff can build up on certain parts of the engine if it idles and isn't put into enough boost for too long or too many times.

Best advice out there for diesels is to start and go and keep the revs under 2000ish if you can while it warms up.

If you live close to a motorway though it can be hard but for the most part the cruising gear wouldnt have the engine under too much stress. Getting up to that speed is the thing you need to slow down Id imagine.

Row

RoverJames wrote: »

tasty info there Row
Where is the oil filter on these engines ? Not on the bottom of the engine I take it if they are advising you to remove it prior to draining the oil. I like manufacturers recommending gravity draining as opposed to suction. I reckon though lots of folks in garages use suction on all cars out of laziness.

Ye you can't beat letting the oil gush out of the sump which also lets alot of the crap/sludge out..I have attached a few pics of the oil filter on the dv6 which is a cartridge type....:)





When the oil filter is removed the oil in the filter housing runs down into the sump tru a small drain hole.
(pic)

Cheers for that
I was thinking 'twould be a cartridge type effort, I think my ole Merc had one of them too...... it did now that I ponder it.

Plug

Row wrote: »

Ye you can't beat letting the oil gush out of the sump which also lets alot of the crap/sludge out..I have attached a few pics of the oil filter on the dv6 which is a cartridge type....:)

Yeah I agree with you and RoverJames here. All it is though, James is right its just pure laziness. Theres no advantage from it other than saving time.

I bought one of them DIY yokes for €100 or so as the sump plug on a Rover 400 diesel I had would not budge and I had no stuff to heat it so bit the bullet. Used it on that car twice and once on my Dad's car but haven't used it since, it seems not the right thing to do conceptually to me.

Row

shamwari wrote: »

For those of you driving Ford powered machines, Ford issued a TSB for their instances of the DV6 engine which is almost word identical to the one posted above.

Can I ask Row and Plug a question: do you find turbo failure confined to 110bhp instances of this engine rather than the 90. I have a theory behind this....;)

Turbo failure is also pretty common on the 110 bhp also but its all down to service intervals pushed out to far and not using the correct grade of oil.
I have always used mobil 1 5w 30 fully syn (low ash) which is dpf friendly.

I think myself on the 110 bhp the dpf is situated right under the turbo which can get up to around 500 degs C during a dpf regeneration and if the regen is interrupted by stopping the engine the heat from the dpf soaks up into the turbo housing and boils the oil within the turbo....:eek:

Inturn creating sludge build up within the oil.
Would that be your theory shamwari...?

Saying that the 90 bhps don't have a dpf only a cat.

Row

RoverJames wrote: »

I bought one of them DIY yokes for €100 or so as the sump plug on a Rover 400 diesel I had would not budge and I had no stuff to heat it so bit the bullet. Used it on that car twice and once on my Dad's car but haven't used it since, it seems not the right thing to do conceptually to me.

Same as that James...I have only used it once...:)

Plug

Row wrote: »

Saying that the 90 bhps don't have a dpf only a cat.

I had a look at a new C-max yesterday and it had a DPF, im sure it was the 90bhp because of the tax system and emissions and all that. More trouble then:D

bazz26

Plug wrote: »

I had a look at a new C-max yesterday and it had a DPF, im sure it was the 90bhp because of the tax system and emissions and all that. More trouble then:D

Every new diesel car sold in the EU from this year has to have a DPF fitted to pass Euro V emmission regualtions. One of the reasons the old 1.8 TDCi has been dropped from the Ford range, ditto goes for the VAG 1.9 TDi.

Technoprisoner

the dpf's are ok as long as people know how and when to regenerate them...of course i doubt the dealer will be telling them when they buy the car


a recond turbo for the ops car can be got at a decent enough price. It is recomended that when the turbo goes that the sump be dropped to clean the oil pick up and a turbo oil feed line be replaced at the same time. as far as i knopw the oil feed line runs down past the exhaust manifold and a lot of blame is been put on this causing the turbo to fail.

a word of advice to anybody needing to replace this turbo on the pugeout/citreon/ford/volvo. Ford actually seel this oil feed cheaper than the other dealers

Plug

bazz26 wrote: »

Every new diesel car sold in the EU from this year has to have a DPF fitted to pass Euro V emmission regualtions. One of the reasons the old 1.8 TDCi has been dropped from the Ford range, ditto goes for the VAG 1.9 TDi.

These emission regulations are a pain. When you consider the tax and fuel savings of a 1.6D its worth considering a 1.4 petrol. Over time the petrol will be cheaper. These diesel engines are quite complex compared to the trusty petrol ones and theres going to be injectors, turbo's, DPF and DMF's to deal with.

Plug

Technoprisoner wrote: »

the dpf's are ok as long as people know how and when to regenerate them...of course i doubt the dealer will be telling them when they buy the car

I've only worked on one ford with a DPF and that was to replace it. It was a Netherlands yoke.

bazz26

Plug wrote: »

These emission regulations are a pain. When you consider the tax and fuel savings of a 1.6D its worth considering a 1.4 petrol. Over time the petrol will be cheaper. These diesel engines are quite complex compared to the trusty petrol ones and theres going to be injectors, turbo's, DPF and DMF's to deal with.

Tell me about it, I had that engine in a Focus and then a S40. I had to replace the DPF late last year in the S40 thanks to the previous owner's short trips.

Correct me if I am wrong but I think the final batch of current shape Focus before the new one arrives in March, all have DPFs fitted and pumped up to 110bhp.

Technoprisoner

Plug wrote: »

I've only worked on one ford with a DPF and that was to replace it. It was a Netherlands yoke.

they dont always need replacing and most new diesels have them fitted now. what kills dpf's is city driving and driving short distances...every few weeks they need to be brought on a motorway drive bringing the car up in the revs over a long period so temps can get up to burn off the carbon etc it catches

shamwari

Row wrote: »

Turbo failure is also pretty common on the 110 bhp also but its all down to service intervals pushed out to far and not using the correct grade of oil.
I have always used mobil 1 5w 30 fully syn (low ash) which is dpf friendly.

I think myself on the 110 bhp the dpf is situated right under the turbo which can get up to around 500 degs C during a dpf regeneration and if the regen is interrupted by stopping the engine the heat from the dpf soaks up into the turbo housing and boils the oil within the turbo....:eek:

Inturn creating sludge build up within the oil.
Would that be your theory shamwari...?

Saying that the 90 bhps don't have a dpf only a cat.

Plug wrote: »

I've only seen them fail on the 90BHP but thats only because its alot more common.
Whats your theory?

My theory insofar as the 110bhp is concerned is that the oil is sludging as a result of the regeneration process, and is similar to yours Row. I don't think the oil or the turbo is up to the coping with the extreme's of heat generated during a regen for two reasons. Firstly the turbo is right in the firing line when the extra derv is injected during the exhaust stroke to heat the DPF up, and it is the most vulnerable in terms of oil supply because it is the highest component to be fed off the block from the oil pump. The fact that it sits over the DPF adds to the risk.

Secondly the oil itself could be an issue. My Wife has a 110bhp CMax and I change the oil using that sold by the main dealer (supplied for me ). I've noticed on more than one occasion that if you smell the oil (even after a thousand miles following a change), there's a distinct "burnt" smell off it which I only usually notice from an engine that's terminally ill. I'm sure that the oil spec meets the manufacturers requirements on paper, but whether it does so in practice is another matter entirely. For this reason, I always change oil and filter every 4 months, irrespective of how much use the car gets. I might have a look at the Mobil "low ash" you mention

SouperComputer

shamwari wrote: »

there's a distinct "burnt" smell off it which I only usually notice from an engine that's terminally ill. I'm sure that the oil spec meets the manufacturers requirements on paper, but whether it does so in practice is another matter entirely. For this reason, I always change oil and filter every 4 months, irrespective of how much use the car gets. I might have a look at the Mobil "low ash" you mention

See if you can, send a sample of oil off somewhere for analysis. That will tell you for certain if it is being stretched beyond its limit. A burned smell doesn't sound too good, but you can't reliably judge an oil's condition from look or smell.

Row

shamwari wrote: »

Firstly the turbo is right in the firing line when the extra derv is injected during the exhaust stroke to heat the DPF up, and it is the most vulnerable in terms of oil supply because it is the highest component to be fed off the block from the oil pump. The fact that it sits over the DPF adds to the risk.

shamwari....I think your right with the turbo sitting so high over the dpf...the oil pump needs to be tip top condition to deliver the required amount of oil to the turbo....A break down in the condition of the oil could cause a restriction and cause the turbo to fail..:eek:
The hight problem may play a big part as the 90 bhp's (non dpf) also suffer
turbo problems.
Also theres a gause in the turbo feed pipe that peugeot remove after fitting a new turbo...I'll see if i can dig out a diagram of it...:)

Sobanek

Find some eastern-european mechanic. They do a job quickly, neatly and for half the price. I was never dissapointed with them.