2010 Cooking Club Week 48: Pulled Pork

Sparks

Sorry for the delay folks, this took a little longer to write up than I'd thought it would

In Ireland, we don’t do Barbecue.

I know, we think we do, but we don’t. What we call barbecueing is actually grilling (and what we call grilling is actually broiling). Barbecue is a different animal altogether to virtually anything we do in Irish cooking, and I don’t think I’ve ever even seen proper barbecue on a menu anywhere in the country, let alone being done regularly by people at home. The closest we get is making bacon from pork by cold smoking it. Barbecue is like that, only with hot smoke and it cooks rather than preserves the meat. It originated in the caribbean as a way to cook very tough cuts of goat, and migrated to the US where it’s become something of a religion.

Unfortunately for me, I live in an apartment. So while I know of a good way to build a barbecue pit using a flower pot and an electric hot plate (thank you Alton Brown), I’ve no room to make it. However, there is one traditional barbecue dish that I can fake using a slow cooker: Pulled Pork. Which, again, we don’t really have anything like in Ireland. The closest dish I can think of to it is a sloppy joe, and we don’t seem to do those here either (think hamburger, but with mince soup rather than a firm mince patty). So think of this as a sandwich filling par excellence. It takes a while to cook – this is a three-day-dish – but 99% of that time is just waiting, there’s very little actual work involved here. And it’ll keep in fridge for a week or so – I’m not sure how long exactly because it’s never lasted that long whenever I’ve made it

So to start, a quick philosophical point – barbecue is defined by being poor people food. Same as chilli. Same as osso bucco. Same as coq au vin. Same, in fact, as all the great dishes of all the world’s cuisines (with the exception of some of the fancier Indian curries perhaps, because of the amount of spices they used). In the US where this dish was invented and perfected, it’s cooked in a barbecue pit and they use whole pork shoulders (with the bone in) as their main ingredient, and they’re easy to source because the dish is so popular. Here, if you ask a butcher for Boston Butt, you’re going to get a funny look (the name, by the way, has some fairly murky origins, but the best guess seems to be that the shoulders were preserved – in pre-refrigeration days – in barrels of brine; hence butt, as in barrel, and boston, as in the place). In the great tradition of poor people food therefore, we adapt. In Ireland, Tesco readily sell boned pork leg cuts for a reasonable price, and they have almost as much connective tissue as the shoulder (very important – more on that later), so we’ll use one of those:



1.2 kg is about right for this recipe, but you don’t have to be too exact. If you go over 1.5 though, you’ll probably need more rub, more liquid and more room in your cooker.

Actually, on the cooker point, some Irish homes now have these for stews and… well, stews. They’re certainly not something I grew up with, so forgive a quick tangential digression. The slow cooker was originally designed in the US to cook beans, a process that needs a long cooking time at a low cooking temperature, which was easy enough when cooking on a campfire (just put your dutch oven – and that’s a topic for another day – a ways from the fire and leave it there all night), but the modern convection oven doesn’t do sub-100C temperatures in a very stable fashion, they’re designed for the 160-220C range really. So the slow cooker (or crock pot as the original was called) was invented. It’s a simple device – a heavy ceramic pot that sits into a holder that has an electrical heating element built into it. It will take whatever liquid is inside it to just under 100C, but won’t ever let it boil, meaning that you can start it off and ignore it for very long periods of time. It’s designed to run unattended all day or all night without being a hazard. It can’t brown meat, of course – it never gets hot enough for that – but it can do some very nice things to any dish that wants long, low, slow cooking (hence the name). Best of all, they’re cheap. The one I’m using here is the cheapest model Argos had available, a 1.5 litre capacity model selling for €15:



Ignore the pricetag. I know it costs less than some whisks, but this is one of those things where it really doesn’t cost that much to get a good model. For a start, this is small. It’s perfect for one or two people; families may want a 2.5L-3L model, but more than that is just silly. It’s not complex – the switch only needs three of those four settings (off, low and high). And the holder doesn’t need to be very strong structurally, that’s what the pot is for.

Okay, so so far that’s a cuisine we just don’t do in Ireland, using a cut of meat we normally eschew in Ireland, and a cooking vessel that we rarely use in Ireland. Do I get a prize for esoteric choices?

Now, this is a three-day dish as I mentioned earlier. On the first day, we trim the meat and we slap a dry spice rub on it and leave it sit in the fridge overnight to marinate. On the second day, we prep a cooking liquid and put the meat in the pot and start cooking; and on the third day, we pull the cooked meat from the pot, pull it, sauce it and serve it. So I’m going to take those three phases in order. To start, the rub:



Ingredients:

• 3 tsp Paprika
• 2 tsp Salt (NOT table salt, because the iodine in it will stain the pork blue…)
• 1 tsp Onion granules
• 1 tsp Chilli powder
• 2 tsp Cumin
• 1 tsp Smoked Paprika (if you can’t find this, just use another tbsp of Paprika)
• 1/2 tsp Garam Marsala (or just curry powder…)
• 1/2 tsp Cayanne Pepper

Mix all of these together. You don’t *have* to use a mortar and pestle…

Now, take the pork out of the package and put it on your meat chopping board:



Remove the net or twine holding it in shape:



That big surrounding layer of white fat has to go, along with the pigskin on top of it. This next bit is by turns icky, slimy, squishy, messy and bristly if the pig wasn’t fully shaved, like this one (so try not to enjoy it too much). You need to just grab a corner and pull the skin away from the flesh, like so:



Then take your knife and run it down the join between the bottom of the fat layer and the start of the flesh



This is what you see when you do it right – a little fat left on the outside of the muscle, but no muscle damage. Be careful with your cuts however, or you wind up hacking the meat up like this:



It’s not that it’s actually harmful, it’s just that you waste some meat doing that, and why kill a pig if you won’t use the meat? Anyway, when you’re done, you should have this:



Discard the skin (I can’t think of anything you can use it for, but if you do, let me know!) and move the meat off the board for a second to a plate or other holding spot and get out your cling film, and lay a sheet of it over half the board and leave a good few inches off the ends of the board, like so:



And then do it again on the other half of the board, with an overlap with the first sheet of cling film of 3-4 inches:



And now sprinkle some of the rub on the centre of the cling film and put the meat on top of that:



Now, sprinkle this with a good dose of the rub:



And when fully covered, pat it into place:



Continue to do this for all sides making sure to work the rub into all the nooks and crannies of the meat, until you have something like this:

Sparks

Now, bring up the edges of the sheets of cling film, and wrap and seal tightly:



And just for insurance, put it in a zip-loc bag (or a tupperware container) and rest overnight in the fridge:



And that’s day one. Total work time here is usually less than 20 minutes even at a leisurely pace.

Sparks

On day two, we prepare our cooking liquid and start the cooking of the pork. 



Ingredients:

• The pork (well, d’uh…)
• 1 cup Coke (not diet, please, and not Pepsi either, but if you like root beer or some other wierd cola, try that)
• 1/2 cup Cider Vinegar
• 1 tsp Nam Pla
• 1 tsp Worstershire Sauce
• 1 tbsp Black Strap Molasses (or normal molasses, or in a dire pinch, honey – but it won’t be the same…)
• 1 tsp Thyme
• 1 tsp Coriander (dried is fine, squishy tube stuff is fine too)
• 1 whole mild chilli (just wash, do not chop or cut)
• 4-5 cloves of Garlic, peeled but not smashed or chopped
• 1 Onion, diced

So, to start, we dice the onion and peel the garlic, and then we add all three to the slow cooker to form a layer on the bottom for the meat to rest on:



Then in a mixing bowl, we add all of the other ingredients, and then whisk to combine:



Once this is done, we add the meat to the slow cooker on top of the aromatics:



BTW, it will look very red (that’s okay, it’s just the paprika) and wet (that’s just protein-laden water drawn out by the salt and mixing with the dry rub to form a basic marinade). That’s all fine. Now that the meat’s in the pot (and you may need to wedge it in there), pour the cooking liquid over the top:



You may need to use tongs to squidge the meat around inside the slow cooker, so that when the lid then goes on, the meat doesn’t touch the lid:



And now we set this puppy to high and leave it alone:



…and that’s the end of day two – total work time 10-15 minutes. We need to leave this to cook now for a minimum of eight hours – and preferably overnight. The point of this is that long slow cooking at the low temperatures in the slow cooker will convert the collagen in the connective tissue into gelatin, and this is why pulled pork tastes so tender and has such a great mouth feel – it’s basicly become meat covered in jelly. That’s why shoulder is normally used as well, on the pig, the shoulder does the most work and has the most connective tissue and therefore produces the most gelatin. Leg’s not quite as good, but it does reasonably well (and it’s easy to source – but if you can find shoulder, use it – and if you can leave the bone in, do that as well). Don’t use something like pork fillet – it just goes tough and isn’t as good to eat:(

Sparks

On day three, we pull the pork and sauce it.



Okay, so it’s the next day and it looks done; but is it? The test is simple – grab the meat with the tongs and twist. If it comes away with very little to zero force, it’s done. If it feels like meat, it’s not and needs more time.



In our case, it comes way without force so we take the meat from the cooking liquid and put it on a board, and we discard the cooking liquid and its various solids.



Just before we pull it, we’ve one last thing to do – look at the meat and find any large bits of fat on it and remove them:



And once the fat is removed, do the same for any remaining membrane type connective tissue:



Now that those icky bits are removed, it’s time to pull the pork. “Pull”, in this case, refers to shredding the pork with the two forks by pulling the meat apart using them. The meat will mostly fall apart almost on its own at this point, but you want to tear it down by holding a chunk in place with one fork and dragging the points of the other fork across the meat. It doesn’t take too long, but make sure you don’t have any really large chunks of meat left unshredded at the end. You want something that looks like this:



Now this is fine as is, and this is what “pulled pork” generally means in the US, but I find that if the fibres are this long, they always get stuck in my teeth and that sucks, so I very roughly chop the meat, just the once:



Cuts about 1.5 to 2 inches apart, and go through it from left to right and from front to back, one time each way, and that’s the meat ready. Now, we just need to sauce it (test the meat now, and it’ll be tasty and nice, but when sauced, it becomes something even better). There are three basic kinds of sauce used for pulled pork: there’s the North Carolina style where the sauce is very thin and based on vinegar; there’s the South Carolina style where the sauce is thicker and based on tomatoes; and there’s this style, where the sauce is based on something bought in a shop :pac:

So clean out the slow cooker and we’ll make up the sauce.



Ingredients:

• 1 cup of your favorite shop-bought barbecue sauce (or a cup of your favorite home-made, either’s good)
• 1/2 cup of Cider Vinegar
• 1 tsp of coriander (the squeezy tube stuff is probably the best here)
• 1 tsp of garlic (again, the squeezy tube stuff is very good here, you’d have to smash and finely dice and cook off raw garlic)
• 1/2 tsp of ginger (squeezy tube again)
• Combine all of those in the slow cooker (it helps if the slow cooker is still hot here) and whisk thoroughly. Now dump in all the pork:

And fold one into the other until well combined:



And that’s it. Leave it in there for ten minutes or so, so that it all warms through (warm meat and cold sauce wouldn’t be so great), and then take a bap or a hamburger bun, put a heaped tablespoon or two on the bread and a tablespoon of coleslaw on top of that (and maybe a little more BBQ sauce) and you have yourself one of the best sandwiches made by man.

Or, scatter some on top of a pizza (along with some more BBQ sauce) and you have a very, very, very moreish pizza.

It’ll keep in the fridge for longer than it will last (or about a week to ten days if you lock the fridge) in a sealed tupperware container.

Enjoy!

psycho-hope

might gve this a lash next week, have seen some recipes online but they all had strange american ingredients

The Black Oil

Quite a way for wrap up the cooking club for 2010, kudos! Realistically, it will probably be the new year before I could hope to attempt this, but I'm very intrigued by it and will try to give it a shot at some stage.

Sparks

The Black Oil wrote: »

Quite a way for wrap up the cooking club for 2010, kudos!

Thanks
I was hoping to do a youtube on it, but alas, the weather has intervened in the foraging for supplies
Maybe next time.

Stheno

Sparks

Could you cook this overnight in an oven at 100?

Sparks

I wouldn't leave it overnight in the oven Stheno, because it won't be at 100, it'll cycle from 80 to 120 continually, if not over a wider range. You could hike the temperature to 160C and roast for about 5-6 hours until it was falling apart, but it's going to be a lot drier and you'll need a lot more sauce at the end.

Honestly? I'd spend the €15 and get a slow cooker (btw, Tesco are selling a 2 litre model for €21 so they're around if you look).

Stheno

Thanks

I had a slow cooker and used it so little over a year and a half that I gave it away, I'm not about to buy one for one recipe, great and all as it sounds

I'll stick to Peking Duck

Kenny_D

Awesome recipe! I've been going mad to try this and after getting a lend of a slow cooker this week for a chicken casserole I think I'll deffinitely be picking one up. Pulled pork and the awesome chilli recipe next up! Cant wait to try this one

foodaholic

Have been dying to make pulled pork for ages so cant wait.

you could you make crispy crackling from the lovely skin

Kenny_D

Had the same idea about crackling as soon as I saw that fat pulled off! I think half normal crackling with lots of rock salt and another batch smothered in chinese five spice+salt

Little Alex

Well done, Sparks, for putting in so much effort on account of all of us sinners! Just like the last time.

Looking forward to tucking in to one of these big, sloppy mofos soon! :pac:

Sparks

Little Alex wrote: »

Well done, Sparks, for putting in so much effort on account of all of us sinners! Just like the last time.

Thanks Alex, but you actually got off lightly - the original plan was to videotape it and subject y'all to youtube clips
Sadly - well, happily for you lot - the weather prohibited a supply run, so I had to go with photos taken during the last test batch of pork and some basic animations. So someone else will get to do the first video submission.

Let's all hope they're hawter than me

Minder

Cracking recipe - something I've always want to have a go at. Thanks Sparks!

psycho-hope

well pork all covered in the rub and sittin in the fridge, will let ya know on sat how it turned out

Dinkie

I don't have a slow cooker so could I use the oven at a really low temperature instead? I often do this to spag bol, etc rather then cook it on the hob.

Is there a difference in the cooking? I'd love to try this, but don't want to buy a slow cooker (may be cheap but recession + lack of room to store is = no go).

Thanks

Sparks

The problem with ovens at really low temperatures is that unless you have an Aga with a warming tray (or similar range), ovens don't do low temperatures. Tell it you want 80C and your modern oven turns on the element till it goes over 80C and lets it cool till it gets below 80C and then turns the element back on again; but the element's made to get the oven to the 160C-220C range and doesn't do little amounts of heat very well, so it's like trying to fill a glass with a firehose without spilling any water.

If you're going to do it in the oven, roast at 160C for 5-6 hours or until the pork is falling apart; but the amount of time will vary depending on how much meat you have, so check early and often - for the amount I used in the recipe, 5 hours might be far too much, and I'd start checking 3 hours in.

WesternNight

What an amazing looking dish. At first glance it looks like a lot of effort, but all the time is really spent cooking, not preparing. And oh man does it look delicious

Sparks

Wait until you actually taste it
Though I keep thinking it could be better - if I could find some liquid smoke, I'd put some in the cooking liquid; or if I could just build a smoker... *sigh*

sioda

Sparks old metal bread tin with lid and good sawdust over a hot bbq alwys worked for me stole from river cottage show years ago..

Mr Magnolia

I've a couple if these resting in the fridge myself this evening.

Sparks

Not a bad idea sioda, but my problem is that

Unfortunately for me, I live in an apartment. So while I know of a good way to build a barbecue pit using a flower pot and an electric hot plate (thank you Alton Brown), I’ve no room to make it.

sioda

Dang

Sparks

Yeah, I know

Very intrigued by this recipe. Will be having people over before Christmas for a usual mulled wine-athon so I was thinking of serving this as nibbles. Will probably pick up a slow cooker from Argos, there's a good few around the €15 range.

Sparks

Yeah, that one in the recipe is the lowest-cost one from Argos. Tesco sell them cheaply as well (they have a 2.5l one for €22 at the moment).

...meant to ask a question, whoops. How many servings would you be looking at with this?

Sparks

Well, if by serving you mean "enough to fill a burger bun with room for coleslaw", you're looking at about 8-10 servings there. If by serving you mean "Sparks has lunch", you're looking at about 4-5 servings

psycho-hope

just put this in the slow cooker now, my god it smells amazing, gonna be drooling for the night now waiting for it to cook:D
thanks Sparks

Mr Magnolia

Back to the drawing board for me. The pork dried out overnight so it's in the bin. I've people calling this afternoon so there's a chilli going on instead.

Magic Monkey

Sparks wrote: »

Wait until you actually taste it
Though I keep thinking it could be better - if I could find some liquid smoke, I'd put some in the cooking liquid; or if I could just build a smoker... *sigh*

Le Palais Des Thés on Wicklow St. sell a strong Lapsang Souchon tea that has an incredible smokey aroma. Maybe it could be added to the marinade or the cooking liquor to get that smoky flavour?

Dinkie

Magic Monkey wrote: »

Le Palais Des Thés on Wicklow St. sell a strong Lapsang Souchon tea that has an incredible smokey aroma. Maybe it could be added to the marinade or the cooking liquor to get that smoky flavour?

You can buy a hickory liquid smoke on the internet. I can't find the name of the place I bought it from, but if you google there are a few sites.

(also use the hickory liquid smoke for bbq'ing).

Sparks

Mr Magnolia wrote: »

The pork dried out overnight so it's in the bin.

How on earth did it dry out?

Mr Magnolia

Haven't got a scooby-doo. There was still some of the cooking fluids in the dish but the pork was very dry.

Sparks

Okay, that's flat-out wierd, none of the cooking liquid should have evaporated. You can try to fix it - add more coke to top up the liquid and run the slow cooker for the day and see how it progresses - but I'm at a loss about the missing liquid, it just shouldn't have vanished like that, the cooker doesn't produce enough heat to boil it and the lid keeps any steam in the pot!

psycho-hope

well cooked the pork over night and just had some now. was lovely took about 12 hrs to get to the falling apart stage. I used about a can of coke, couldnt get mollases so honey it was and red wine vinegar instead of the cider vinegar. will definatly be making it again, just might half the amout of chilli next time for me there was to much of a kick

thanks again Sparks

Picked up the slow cooker last week. Gf picking up the items tomorrow from the shop. Most are available in Tesco I assume from the pictures?

And nam pla is just fish sauce yeah?

Sparks

Dónal wrote: »

Picked up the slow cooker last week. Gf picking up the items tomorrow from the shop. Most are available in Tesco I assume from the pictures?

Yup. I picked up everything in the photos (bar some of the spice that I already had, but they're in Tesco as well) because pulled pork is meant to be poor people's food, so you pick the most used source to find your supplies, rather than somewhere esoteric (granted, the chilli recipe was poor people food too but needed an ingredient we consider esoteric - chipotle chillis in adobo sauce - but where the dish was from, that was as esoteric as ketchup).

And nam pla is just fish sauce yeah?

Thai fish sauce, yes. If you can't find it, you could just use twice as much worstershire, but I think it's better with the nam pla.

nice1franko

I made this last night. I used to have a slow cooker but it broke earlier in the year so I thought I'd have a go with a cast iron pot. The rational being:

a) my cooker says the lowest it can go is 50c so maybe it's a little better at handling lower heats that the ones sparks has used
and
b) the cast iron pot kind of stabilises the heat a bit

So I put the oven on at about 75c and I checked both the oven and inside the pot with a probe 3 or 4 times within the first few hours hour and sure enough it was circa 70c each time. This morn I checked again- same.

It was in for about 10 hours altogether and all the cooking fluid was still in the pot and the pork is lovely n tender.

Flavour-wise, I think I overdid it with the black strap mollasses a bit (first time I ever used this) because there's a liquoricey tang which doesn't taste right. Anyway, I drained off all the liquid and once I do the bbq sauce hopefully it'll balance it out.

Soft floury baps with pulled BBQ pork, coleslaw and pickles this eve

Sparks

Nice one. The cast iron pot was what saved you though I think - it has the effect of smoothing out the oven's temperature cycling (hooray for cast iron's specific heat capacity!). Nice to see it came out well (even if you had a bit too much molasses - you have to watch it with the black strap stuff, you can go a bit wilder with the fancy molasses stuff, but you don't see it on the shelves so much over here, and to be honest, I prefer the taste of the cheaper black strap stuff

And excellent choice with the pickles

pickarooney

I so want to make this but I can't find a crock pot for under 120 euros. Or black strap molasses for that matter, but that's a lesser concern.

I don't know if an electric tajine pot would serve the same purpose.

Sparks

120 euro???
Where the heck are you looking?
Argos have one for 15 euro and Tesco for 22 euro.

pickarooney

Sparks wrote: »

120 euro???
Where the heck are you looking?

In France

Digging around on eBay now but am not sure if I'm looking at the right things. Product specs are thin on the ground.

http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=250737392697
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330506572205
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360325715704

Sparks

pickarooney wrote: »

In France

Ah!
But still...

Digging around on eBay now but am not sure if I'm looking at the right things. Product specs are thin on the ground.
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=250737392697

Doesn't open for me for some reason.

http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330506572205

Yup, that's one.

http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360325715704

Yup, that's one too.

Also search for "mijoteuse" or "mijoteur".

Kenny_D

Would pork belly be any good for this recipe? Have a piece of it there in the fridge but can do roasted chinese belly pork if its not really suitable

Sparks

Don't think it'd work really, this dish works by converting the collagen in the connective tissue to gelatin; there's none to convert in pork belly. You'd render out all the fat and end up with a little overcooked meat covered in too much grease. Awful thing to do to something as useful and tasty as pork belly...

Little Alex

Just bought myself a slow cooker today for this recipe and some other stuff I want to try out. Argos have some great deals at the moment: I got a 3.5l Breville model for €20!

So I've got everything but the squeezy tubes of Coriander & Ginger. Checked two Tescos (Rathmines & Lucan) and no go. Was in Dunnes in Rathmines too, same. I do have the granules of them though, would they do?

Sparks

Yup, though if you're using ground ginger, just put a half-teaspoon into the spice mix. As to coriander, fresh is nicer, but dried will do fine, just make sure it has enough time to rehydrate in the liquid before eating.
The squeezee tubes are for convenience, nothing else. Fresh is better quality if you want to take the time; dried will do if you haven't got fresh. Squeezee tubes are sort of a balance point between the two.