Best products to clean your car?

looking4advice

What should I buy and where should I buy it. I went to a Statoil car wash today and it was rubbish - €9 it cost.

Esel

Search this forum....

Mandzhalas

any of Autoglym,Mequirs,Poor boys bottles should do the trick.Personaly my favorite autocare products are Autoglym

vectra

Are you looking to just give your car a quick wash or do you want to keep it mint??

madyoke2009

I'd recommend the autoglym range. There is a new website <snip> these stock all of the products, plus give a full description of each product.

The express wax is my favourite. Wash the car with the bodywork shampoo, use the waterblade to remove the heavy water or use a good chamois or microfibre.
the car does not need to be completely dry, spray on the aqua wax and wipe.

No hard work involved. It gives a great finish, fast effective, simple.

scudzilla

The little polish guy in the garage on Malahide Road (Next to pet shop)

E39MSport

Zymol. Internet.

MrcValets

never put your car through a brsuh wash , the brushs damage your paint leaving swirl marks and the paint becomes dull . i would use some autoglym gear but if you in the castleknock area i do valeting in the castlekknock gold club and for the 9 euro you spent you can get the car washed then dried all by hand the wheels will be soaked and scrubed in wheel acid and tyre dressing applied . also wash mitts are used so the dirt on the car is not dragged around damaging the paint :rolleyes:

vectra

MrcValets wrote: »

for the 9 euro you spent you can get the car washed then dried all by hand the wheels will be soaked and scrubed in wheel acid and tyre dressing applied . also wash mitts are used so the dirt on the car is not dragged around damaging the paint :rolleyes:

:eek:


Wheel Acid....!!!

"Head for the hills" :pac:

Bandara

MrcValets wrote: »

never put your car through a brsuh wash , the brushs damage your paint leaving swirl marks and the paint becomes dull . i would use some autoglym gear but if you in the castleknock area i do valeting in the castlekknock gold club and for the 9 euro you spent you can get the car washed then dried all by hand the wheels will be soaked and scrubed in wheel acid and tyre dressing applied . also wash mitts are used so the dirt on the car is not dragged around damaging the paint :rolleyes:

wow, this sounds like one of the many valet/hand wash places that do more damage than brush washes do.

:eek:


run run far away

VinnyTGM

OP

Here is an example of what you will need with Autoglym products(I use these as an example because I use them myself so I know what each of them do)

PRODUCTS NEEDED:
-Get yourself two buckets (any diy store)

-A washmitt(Woodies sell Kent washmitts)

-AG Bodywork shampoo & conditioner (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=K&Range=1) ,

-and an AG aqua-dry (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=I&Range=1)

-or an aqua blade (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HI&Range=1)

-with a drying towel (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=FEIH&Range=1)

I use all three as together they make drying very quick and easy.

Some acid free wheel cleaner (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HM&Range=1)

That should sort you with the basics.

If you want to go further:
WINDOWS: AG car glass polish or fast glass for the windows
POLISHES: AG super resin polish (every car), or ultra deep shine(dark cars)
PROTECTION : AG extra gloss protection, or HD wax
PLASTIC TRIM: AG bumper care
TYRES: AG Instant tyre dressing
WHEELS: AG wheel sealant

HOW TO USE.

Fill up one bucket with your wash solution and the other with plain water.
Dip your washmitt into the wash solution and wash car panel, then dip into plain water, then back into the wash solution. This will help ensure that the dirt and grit particles stay in the bucket filled with water otherwise your just spreading the dirt around.
Don't forget the door jambs.

Spray the wheel cleaner onto the wheels and work in with a wheel brush.
(http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=FJ&Range=1)

Then dry with your aqua blade/chamois/drying towel.

Get rid of the big bits of tar by spraying on and allowing to sit for a few minutes before wiping off (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=GD&Range=1)

If your paint is too contaminated you might consider claying the paintwork first, you can also clay your windows and wheels, you'd be surprised with the amount of contamination on your windows. (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=EIEL&Range=1)

A cleanser is used before polishing but is optional (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=EJII&Range=1)

Apply your polish in straight lines using a small amount of the product, remember to dampen your applicator before use.

Buff off using a microfibre cloth, not a rag, these cloths can be used many times and washed after use, (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HH&Range=1)

If you are applying a sealant such as the extra gloss protection, apply in straight lines, again using minimal product, allow at least an hour to cure then buff off.

If your using a wax, apply in light circular motions, using minimal product, allow about 10-15 minutes to cure and then buff off.

When applying the trim treatment, use a piece of sponge and spread onto the trim.

You can also apply polish and wax to your wheels for long lasting protection, the wheel sealant is ok but isn't very durable.

Use the same principle for the window polish as with polishing the cars bodywork, when applying the fast glass spray onto the window and wipe off with some paper towel or a microfibre.

When applying your tyre dressing don't spray it onto the tyre as it will also go onto the paint and the wheel, which dirt will then stick to, instead pour some into a glass or a jar and use a small paintbrush to apply.




INTERIOR:

Start off by taking all the objects and rubbish out of your car, take out the car mats as well.

Vacuum the whole interior including mats and boot.

Get a bucket of water and an interior cleaner (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=GE&Range=1)

Get an aqua dry and an interior micrfibre (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=ID&Range=1)

Work on one piece of the interior at a time, first the headlining, seats, dashboard, doorcards, and carpet, not forgetting the floor mats.

Spray the cleaner onto the interior, this can also be used on leather seats. use a stiff sponge or a cleaning pad (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HG&Range=1)
to agitate the cleaner, wipe over with the aqua dry and then wipe away any excess moisture with the microfibre, you should see any dirt in the water and empty it and refill when appropriate.

Dress the plastics (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HE&Range=1) and condition the leather (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=EJIJ&Range=1)

Clean the windows the same as the outside,


ENGINE BAY:

Use a dedicated engine cleaner (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=FG&Range=1)

Be sure to cover any exposed electrical components such as aftermarket alarm systems with a plastic cover first.

ONLY clean WHEN the engine is COLD.
Agitate with the a brush, your wheel brush would do fine, allow a few minutes and rinse off.

Soak up the excess water and with the engine still wet, spray on the vinyl and rubber care, it looks great afterwards.



You can top up your wax protection with a product such as aqua wax inbetween cleaning sessions. (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HJ&Range=1)

It might also work out better value if you were to buy a collection to get started with as it can work out very expensive. Something like this should see you on the right way (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=LEL&Range=1)

Again I used the Autoglym products as an example as I use these products myself so I know how to describe them. Other brands are just as good but I don't know the ins and outs of their products.

AG = Autoglym

Oh and stay away from those machine washers in the garages, they ruin your paint, and the same goes for acid cleaners.

Esel

Very comprehensive post, Vinny. Thanks for taking the time.

vectra

VinnyTGM wrote: »

Op
Here is an example .

Great post
One thing though
If using a aqua blade, Just be careful there is no grit on the paintwork as one of these can catch it and drag it across the paintwork leaving a nice scratch.

I am not saying do not use one as I think they are a good job. Just be careful if you are.

jock101

Aldi and Lidl do a great range of car cleaning products for a fraction of the cost of Halfords or other independent Motorfactors!

-Corkie-

Autosmart are excellent. The only thing is everything is mostly in gallon cans. I am a car clean freak so the large cans suit me..:)

Esel

jock101 wrote: »

Aldi and Lidl do a great range of car cleaning products for a fraction of the cost of Halfords or other independent Motorfactors!

The Aldi and Lidl stuff is only available on occasion, though. I am not endorsing their products, btw.

CaraFawn

VinnyTGM wrote: »

OP

Here is an example of what you will need with Autoglym products(I use these as an example because I use them myself so I know what each of them do)

PRODUCTS NEEDED:
-Get yourself two buckets (any diy store)

-A washmitt(Woodies sell Kent washmitts)

-AG Bodywork shampoo & conditioner (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=K&Range=1) ,

-and an AG aqua-dry (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=I&Range=1)

-or an aqua blade (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HI&Range=1)

-with a drying towel (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=FEIH&Range=1)

I use all three as together they make drying very quick and easy.

Some acid free wheel cleaner (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HM&Range=1)

That should sort you with the basics.

If you want to go further:
WINDOWS: AG car glass polish or fast glass for the windows
POLISHES: AG super resin polish (every car), or ultra deep shine(dark cars)
PROTECTION : AG extra gloss protection, or HD wax
PLASTIC TRIM: AG bumper care
TYRES: AG Instant tyre dressing
WHEELS: AG wheel sealant

HOW TO USE.

Fill up one bucket with your wash solution and the other with plain water.
Dip your washmitt into the wash solution and wash car panel, then dip into plain water, then back into the wash solution. This will help ensure that the dirt and grit particles stay in the bucket filled with water otherwise your just spreading the dirt around.
Don't forget the door jambs.

Spray the wheel cleaner onto the wheels and work in with a wheel brush.
(http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=FJ&Range=1)

Then dry with your aqua blade/chamois/drying towel.

Get rid of the big bits of tar by spraying on and allowing to sit for a few minutes before wiping off (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=GD&Range=1)

If your paint is too contaminated you might consider claying the paintwork first, you can also clay your windows and wheels, you'd be surprised with the amount of contamination on your windows. (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=EIEL&Range=1)

A cleanser is used before polishing but is optional (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=EJII&Range=1)

Apply your polish in straight lines using a small amount of the product, remember to dampen your applicator before use.

Buff off using a microfibre cloth, not a rag, these cloths can be used many times and washed after use, (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HH&Range=1)

If you are applying a sealant such as the extra gloss protection, apply in straight lines, again using minimal product, allow at least an hour to cure then buff off.

If your using a wax, apply in light circular motions, using minimal product, allow about 10-15 minutes to cure and then buff off.

When applying the trim treatment, use a piece of sponge and spread onto the trim.

You can also apply polish and wax to your wheels for long lasting protection, the wheel sealant is ok but isn't very durable.

Use the same principle for the window polish as with polishing the cars bodywork, when applying the fast glass spray onto the window and wipe off with some paper towel or a microfibre.

When applying your tyre dressing don't spray it onto the tyre as it will also go onto the paint and the wheel, which dirt will then stick to, instead pour some into a glass or a jar and use a small paintbrush to apply.




INTERIOR:

Start off by taking all the objects and rubbish out of your car, take out the car mats as well.

Vacuum the whole interior including mats and boot.

Get a bucket of water and an interior cleaner (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=GE&Range=1)

Get an aqua dry and an interior micrfibre (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=ID&Range=1)

Work on one piece of the interior at a time, first the headlining, seats, dashboard, doorcards, and carpet, not forgetting the floor mats.

Spray the cleaner onto the interior, this can also be used on leather seats. use a stiff sponge or a cleaning pad (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HG&Range=1)
to agitate the cleaner, wipe over with the aqua dry and then wipe away any excess moisture with the microfibre, you should see any dirt in the water and empty it and refill when appropriate.

Dress the plastics (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HE&Range=1) and condition the leather (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=EJIJ&Range=1)

Clean the windows the same as the outside,


ENGINE BAY:

Use a dedicated engine cleaner (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=FG&Range=1)

Be sure to cover any exposed electrical components such as aftermarket alarm systems with a plastic cover first.

ONLY clean WHEN the engine is COLD.
Agitate with the a brush, your wheel brush would do fine, allow a few minutes and rinse off.

Soak up the excess water and with the engine still wet, spray on the vinyl and rubber care, it looks great afterwards.



You can top up your wax protection with a product such as aqua wax inbetween cleaning sessions. (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HJ&Range=1)

It might also work out better value if you were to buy a collection to get started with as it can work out very expensive. Something like this should see you on the right way (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=LEL&Range=1)

Again I used the Autoglym products as an example as I use these products myself so I know how to describe them. Other brands are just as good but I don't know the ins and outs of their products.

AG = Autoglym

Oh and stay away from those machine washers in the garages, they ruin your paint, and the same goes for acid cleaners.

Good effort but some of the information provided is pretty scary...

- You never use a gelly wiper (Aqua wiper) to wipe the excess of water on your car's body! Every little dirt that was missed in the washing and rinsing (And there always is) process will scratch you body.

- You do not clean an engine when it is cold, you clean it when it is warm, not hot. Why? Because it is easier and most of the dirt in the area you want to clean, will be closer to liquid state than solid state.

- "Use a dedicated engine cleaner". There is no such thing, any good degreaser will do.

- "Oh and stay away from those machine washers in the garages". These will actually do less damages to your car that using a gelly wiper after washing it with a washmitt.

- You do not explain what to do after your engine has been degreased, which is pretty scary. It is vital to seal your engine after the degreaser has been applied, rinsed and dried up.

- ...

VinnyTGM

vectra wrote: »

Great post
One thing though
If using a aqua blade, Just be careful there is no grit on the paintwork as one of these can catch it and drag it across the paintwork leaving a nice scratch.

I am not saying do not use one as I think they are a good job. Just be careful if you are.

Yeh, forgot to mention this, always clean the tip before use and make sure the paint is thoroughly clean.

Thanks Vectra

VinnyTGM

CaraFawn wrote: »

Good effort but some of the information provided is pretty scary...

- You never use a gelly wiper (Aqua wiper) to wipe the excess of water on your car's body! Every little dirt that was missed in the washing and rinsing (And there always is) process will scratch you body.

- You do not clean an engine when it is cold, you clean it when it is warm, not hot. Why? Because it is easier and most of the dirt in the area you want to clean, will be closer to liquid state than solid state.

- "Use a dedicated engine cleaner". There is no such thing, any good degreaser will do.

- "Oh and stay away from those machine washers in the garages". These will actually do less damages to your car that using a gelly wiper after washing it with a washmitt.

- You do not explain what to do after your engine has been degreased, which is pretty scary. It is vital to seal your engine after the degreaser has been applied, rinsed and dried up.

- ...

Gelly wipers are perfectly safe if you clean the car thoroughly and it has been previously detailed. A lot of the pro detailers use them.

The reason I clean engines when there cold rather then warm is because when you spray the water onto a warm engine it evaporates and goes into electrical components a lot easier.

There are dedicated engine cleaners, they are much safer on rubber, eg hoses in the engine bay etc.
It is ok to use any apc(all purpose cleaner) but as I clean an engine on a regular basis I like to be sure none of the components are going to perish excessively.

Again washing a car with a washmitt and 2 buckets is one of the safest procedures to wash a car and if rinsed thoroughly will ensure the paint is free from dirt.
Scratches usually occur when a persons lack of experience/skill leaves dirt on the paintwork.

I did explain what to do after cleaning the engine, soak up excess water with a towel or paper towels, then spray a product such as this (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HE&Range=1) onto the engine and allow it to dry itself, it will form a protective barrier against dirt.
I tend to avoid dedicated engine sealants/laquers as they tend to turn a brownish colour after a while plus the method I do allows easier cleaning in the future.


Use as many products as possible and try and find the techniques and products that work best for you.

bmw535d

dodo juice.

bmstuff

VinnyTGM wrote: »

Gelly wipers are perfectly safe if you clean the car thoroughly and it has been previously detailed. A lot of the pro detailers use them.

I strongly disagree with that, even though you said make sure it is clean and all. It does not matter, tiny particules that you can't necessarely see will still be on the way. I know you are right some shops do use that, but this is just so wrong. Pro detailers do not use that all. And there is a good reason for that.

Check this out.
http://www.bmw-planet.com/2009/01/20/lib-3-mistakes-not-to-make-when-washing-a-car/

It will be very obvious on black/dark cars , even though you rinse the car extremelly well. It will damage it big time. I know I used to use that few years back on my black car...

Hogzy

bmw535d wrote: »

dodo juice.

Eh as far as i know the dodo is extinct.

:P

vectra

Hogzy wrote: »

Eh as far as i know the dodo is extinct.

:P

Ah,
They are not talking about the bird DO DO though

Hogzy

vectra wrote: »

They are not talking about the bird DO DO though

Yeah i got that...:rolleyes:

bmw535d

Hogzy wrote: »

Eh as far as i know the dodo is extinct.

:P

now that is quality humor.........................:rolleyes:

Hogzy

bmw535d wrote: »

now that is quality humor.........................:rolleyes:

Jez, didnt know the folks of Motors were such stiffs. :rolleyes:

demanufactured

bottle of wahing up liquid and a household brush..








Im not conconing this , its just what a lot of people use.

VolvoMan

madyoke2009 wrote: »

I'd recommend the autoglym range. There is a new website <snip> these stock all of the products, plus give a full description of each product.

The express wax is my favourite. Wash the car with the bodywork shampoo, use the waterblade to remove the heavy water or use a good chamois or microfibre.
the car does not need to be completely dry, spray on the aqua wax and wipe.

No hard work involved. It gives a great finish, fast effective, simple.

I know you're selling them and all, but I have to step in here and say that I have much experience of the Autogym product range and have used it several times with disappointing results. When you're polishing it off as well it chalks up and leaves a mess in between door shuts and on rubber trim.

vectra

VolvoMan wrote: »

When you're polishing it off as well it chalks up and leaves a mess in between door shuts and on rubber trim.

I am with you there

Hogzy

VolvoMan wrote: »

When you're polishing it off as well it chalks up and leaves a mess in between door shuts and on rubber trim.

Iv noticed this aswell, thought i may have been leaving it on too long but i tried a few others and they never did this.

bmstuff

Do you guys mean the white stuff left over the rubber when you polish?

If so this is normal, nature of any polishing product really. Not related to AG. Will do the same with any.

When you polish you have to wrap the rubbers, so they do not get contaminated.

Gary ITR

scudzilla wrote: »

The little polish guy in the garage on Malahide Road (Next to pet shop)

Do you just rub his face on the paintwork?

vectra

Onkle wrote: »

Do you just rub his face on the paintwork?

PMSL

Max_Damage

Washing up liquid works fine for me.

-Corkie-

Max_Damage wrote: »

Washing up liquid works fine for me.

That aint good for your paintwork lad. A wash and wax in halfords or tescos would prob work out cheaper and do a better job.;)

Max_Damage

SARASON wrote: »

That aint good for your paintwork lad. A wash and wax in halfords or tescos would prob work out cheaper and do a better job.;)

Meh, been using it for years and it hasn't done any damage (visible at least) to the paintwork

vectra

Max_Damage wrote: »

Meh, been using it for years and it hasn't done any damage (visible at least) to the paintwork

Strips any polish/wax off.. Too much salt content or something like that

Max_Damage

vectra wrote: »

Strips any polish/wax off.. Too much salt content or something like that

I rarely wax my car so that doesn't matter.

As for the salt thing, hasn't caused my car to rust.

Gary ITR

Max_Damage wrote: »

I rarely wax my car so that doesn't matter.

As for the salt thing, hasn't caused my car to rust.

It's not good for your paint over a prolonged period. If you wash your car every week it will cause rust and will start to strip the lacquer. I wouldn't recommend this at all. If you are looking for cheap and cheerful, shampoo is better, just don't let you ma/sister catch you nicking the good stuff

VolvoMan

bmstuff wrote: »

Do you guys mean the white stuff left over the rubber when you polish?

If so this is normal, nature of any polishing product really. Not related to AG. Will do the same with any.

It is true that when appyling any product carelessly you will get stains on black plastic/rubber etc, but when removing Autoglym it becomes incredibly dusty unlike any other product I've used.

I have also used Autoglym's Leather Cleaner before and I could honestly say a bucket of water would do a better job. The leather showed little or no difference after long periods of intense scrubbing.

TomMc

The reason Autoglym SRP stains trim (apart from over application or improper use) is because it also contains chalk. Other products which contain petroleum distillates, do so too. If you want to avoid this use more modern eco-friendly products which are water-based and solvent free.

bmw535d

Max_Damage wrote: »

Washing up liquid works fine for me.

what kind of car do you have? id nearly put money on my guess:rolleyes:

jaffa20

bmw535d wrote: »

what kind of car do you have? id nearly put money on my guess:rolleyes:

That would be an easy bet as they are in his sig!

1982 Ford Escort Mk3 1.3 L (resto project)
1990 Nissan Micra K10 L (my first car, currently in long term storage)
1995 Ford Escort Mk6 1.3 CL (current every day car)

E39MSport

bmstuff wrote: »

I strongly disagree with that, even though you said make sure it is clean and all. It does not matter, tiny particules that you can't necessarely see will still be on the way. I know you are right some shops do use that, but this is just so wrong. Pro detailers do not use that all. And there is a good reason for that.

Check this out.
http://www.bmw-planet.com/2009/01/20/lib-3-mistakes-not-to-make-when-washing-a-car/

It will be very obvious on black/dark cars , even though you rinse the car extremelly well. It will damage it big time. I know I used to use that few years back on my black car...

DON'T watch that link. You won't get the minutes back. ffs.

He says blades are weapons of mass destruction ...... if you get a bit of grit on it. Again, the blade is fine as a tool imo. I rinse my blade regularly. There is no grit on the car after washing rinsing. There are no marks on my paintwork whatsoever after years of blade use. It's properly stored and never dropped or left on the ground etc.

Justin10

Just woundering what i would use for my black almera?
The Aqua wax,Resin Polish, or the ultra deep shine?
Thanks

Seperate

Rochey18 wrote: »

Just woundering what i would use for my black almera?
The Aqua wax,Resin Polish, or the ultra deep shine?
Thanks

This would be ideal - clock!

It'd perform and last better than the Augoglym stuff, and it's much easier to work with too.

Loads of reviews on DetailingWorld!

bmstuff

E39MSport wrote: »

DON'T watch that link. You won't get the minutes back. ffs.

He says blades are weapons of mass destruction ...... if you get a bit of grit on it. Again, the blade is fine as a tool imo. I rinse my blade regularly. There is no grit on the car after washing rinsing. There are no marks on my paintwork whatsoever after years of blade use. It's properly stored and never dropped or left on the ground etc.

This is a very informative video mate with professional advices and real life illustrations, I do not know what do you think is wrong with that.

Yes you need to rinse the blade and yes I believe it is still a risky business to use that. A very tiny particule of dirt/debris left over the body will have devastating effects on your body when wiped with the blade.

bmstuff

VolvoMan wrote: »

It is true that when appyling any product carelessly you will get stains on black plastic/rubber etc, but when removing Autoglym it becomes incredibly dusty unlike any other product I've used.

I have also used Autoglym's Leather Cleaner before and I could honestly say a bucket of water would do a better job. The leather showed little or no difference after long periods of intense scrubbing.

Yeah agreed.
Their leather products are useless.

magsmelia

Rochey18 wrote: »

Just woundering what i would use for my black almera?
The Aqua wax,Resin Polish, or the ultra deep shine?
Thanks

The Ultra Deep Shine, is created for dark cars. Use the AG Perfect Polishing Cloth to apply it.
Have a look at this link from Autoglym, showing how it works .

E39MSport

Will you ever DO ONE

Treating people on here like fools will get you nowhere.

magsmelia

E39MSport wrote: »

Will you ever DO ONE

Treating people on here like fools will get you nowhere.

Apologies to anyone that I have treated like a fool. someone asked a Question i replied, i gave him the link to autoglym, if this insults people I'm sorry.