Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

Steve X2

FLIR Video of my internals, my computer internals i mean, of course
You can clearly see the massive heatsink I'm using inside the computer is doing its job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVCE66fusoI

Doge

Just got a YouTube alert for your video there.

First upload in a good while I believe.

When I first saw the FLIR I thought it was one of the coolest gadgets I saw in a good while. Although I'm not willing to pay Steve SI money for it!

Steve X2

Doge wrote: »

Just got a YouTube alert for your video there.

First upload in a good while I believe.

When I first saw the FLIR I thought it was one of the coolest gadgets I saw in a good while. Although I'm not willing to pay Steve SI money for it!

The iOS or Android dongle is a lot cheaper than a standalone device as you've got the screen and the bulk of processing going on there.

Steve X2

The FMV module I got for the CD32 certainly gets hot after playing VCD's for a while.

Over 30c on the external case. Not too bad.



But over 64c on the card itself! I'd forgotten how hot old school mpeg decoding cards got back in the 90's.

Doge

Steve X2 wrote: »

But over 64c on the card itself! I'd forgotten how hot old school mpeg decoding cards got back in the 90's.

Must be a throwback to the revised model of the Commodore 64! :P

Steve X2

Megadrive, Mega-CD and 32X Tower of Power. Powered up for a few hours running various 32x games.
The console itself isn’t that hot, but the new PSU I got that powers them all from the one socket gets very warm, but not too hot.

I’ll stop posting these pics now, they are cool (in my mind) but it’s not really what this thread is for.

The Last Bandit

Keep posting them, I like guessing the components that are generating the heat

The only one that doesn't make sense is the Twin Famicom, the voltage regulator (which usually is the hottest component) is at the rear left but the hotspot appears to be the Everdrive cart itself..

Steve X2

The Last Bandit wrote: »

Keep posting them, I like guessing the components that are generating the heat

The only one that doesn't make sense is the Twin Famicom, the voltage regulator (which usually is the hottest component) is at the rear left but the hotspot appears to be the Everdrive cart itself..

The rear left looks pretty warm in this pic.

The Last Bandit

Ah that makes more sense now

The Last Bandit

Took the opportunity with the good weather to restore a tatty Saturn to its former glory

eddhorse

Great weather for Retrobriting !!
It turned out very well.
Whats in your secret sauce?

The Last Bandit

No secret to it. Just a bottle of 'Jerome Russell B Blonde' from Boots

eddhorse

The Last Bandit wrote: »

No secret to it. Just a bottle of 'Jerome Russell B Blonde' from Boots

Great will get one today

BGOllie

The Last Bandit wrote: »

No secret to it. Just a bottle of 'Jerome Russell B Blonde' from Boots

on it's own or do you mix it with sth else ?
how do you leave it our for then ?

The Last Bandit

BGOllie wrote: »

on it's own or do you mix it with sth else ?
how do you leave it our for then ?

No mixing needed, just lash it on straight from the bottle and covered with cling-film.

That Saturn probably spent about 20 hours outside over the weekend, took it in on Saturday evening and washed down to see the progress and decided it need more time.

Done an Amiga mouse yesterday in about 6 hours though, although it wasn't as bad as the Saturn.

You do need to move the parts around every so often to keep the sun light on the right bits though.

Steve X2

Seems this is the spot for this info as its sort of technical.

Just for those interested(or thinking of buying), I can confirm the XRGB-Mini Framemeister is gods damn awesome on a 1080p projector

I was concerned it wouldn’t look as well as it does on normal 1080p LCD’s, but it works superbly. There’s loads of tweaking involved to get the picture just right for every console, but that’s the same as with an LCD anyway. The newer firmware allows you to save profiles to the MicroSD card in the XRGB, so its super easy to have a profile for ever console, computer and modern setup you’re using. I’ve got a modded 360 going through it as well using the bypass option for 90 percent of the games and I flick on the processing to create nice scanlines for the Jap 360 shmups.

Also, Sensi Soccer on a 100+ inch display is awesome (even if it is just over SVideo and not full RGB)

eddhorse

Steve X2 wrote: »

Seems this is the spot for this info as its sort of technical.

Just for those interested(or thinking of buying), I can confirm the XRGB-Mini Framemeister is gods damn awesome on a 1080p projector

I was concerned it wouldn’t look as well as it does on normal 1080p LCD’s, but it works superbly. There’s loads of tweaking involved to get the picture just right for every console, but that’s the same as with an LCD anyway. The newer firmware allows you to save profiles to the MicroSD card in the XRGB, so its super easy to have a profile for ever console, computer and modern setup you’re using. I’ve got a modded 360 going through it as well using the bypass option for 90 percent of the games and I flick on the processing to create nice scanlines for the Jap 360 shmups.

Also, Sensi Soccer on a 100+ inch display is awesome (even if it is just over SVideo and not full RGB)

Awesome , pictures please !!!! Sensi for the big win

BGOllie

pretty impressive job with that Bblonde stuff alright. Thanks for the tip Mr Bandit





Had enough to do this, a SNES, my amiga mouse and the amiga .
only downside is I hadn't realized my "good" gameboy had any yellowing in it. now I got to restore that one too.

eddhorse

Atari 2600 composite mod (also tutorials for other Atarii)

https://www.thefuturewas8bit.com/index.php/2600_comp_mod

https://www.thefuturewas8bit.com/shop/atari/atari-composite-video-mod.html

Not bad for £6.99 , anyone else done similar?

Myrddin

A longshot...but would anyone have a Mega Everdrive I could borrow for a short time? I've a dead Megadrive 1 here that I've recapped, replaced both regulators, replaced the Z80, and done various other bits but is still dead. The Mega Everdrive can run a rom that checks the ram chips, & reports faults, which is super handy...

Relikk

You can borrow mine if you like, as long as you're willing to come out and collect it and drop it back to me when you're finished.

Myrddin

Relikk wrote: »

You can borrow mine if you like, as long as you're willing to come out and collect it and drop it back to me when you're finished.

I've just ordered a replacement cpu, & two system ram modules...so if they don't fix it, I'll get in touch & arrange to borrow it for a few hours or so. Thanks for the offer dude

Steve X2

So I got a new Jamma PSU along with some other bits from ArcadeWorld UK. It’s switchable so covers UK, US and Jap machines.
Can I just install this in the Egret 3 and wire it up, or is there something else that needs to be done?
Is there another step or something I need to look out for when converting Jap arcade PSU to UK?

Product Features:
• Industry Standard
• AC input 88-132VAC or 176-264VAC (Switchable)
• +5V, 3~15 Amp, +12V 4 Amp, -5V 1 Amp.
• CE, TUV and UL approved
• High efficiency
• Easy start up
• Green "Power On" LED
• Overload protected
• Built in EMI filter
• Maximum noise minimization by built in high speed diode.

geotrig

check where your monitor is be fed power from . most are isolated but have input requirements of 110*v (im looking at that no and it doesnt look right ) lol

As geo said,

Steve X2

geotrig wrote: »

check where your monitor is be fed power from . most are isolated but have input requirements of 110*v (im looking at that no and it doesnt look right ) lol

What do you mean? Something on the PSU?

TechnoFreek

Yeah, the monitor in my atomiswave is 110v only. You replaced yours though, no? So maybe it's different. Defo do your research as it could be a costly mistake to supply it with 220v.

And obviously if you have the stock psu, you'll be hacking the connectors off the end of the relevant cables to allow connection to your generic psu. FrancoB used to make and sell adaptors so you could keep everything stock. He's out of that game now of course.

Steve X2

TechnoFreek wrote: »

Yeah, the monitor in my atomiswave is 110v only. You replaced yours though, no? So maybe it's different. Defo do your research as it could be a costly mistake to supply it with 220v.

And obviously if you have the stock psu, you'll be hacking the connectors off the end of the relevant cables to allow connection to your generic psu. FrancoB used to make and sell adaptors so you could keep everything stock. He's out of that game now of course.

Yeah I'll make sure I've got a clear view of what needs to be done before doing anything. I might just leave the PSU in there and use this one for my Point Blank as that needs one as well.

I replaced the monitor 3 times in the Egret 3 But its original parts so will be the same as what was in there.

TechnoFreek

Defo 110v so.

geotrig

Steve X2 wrote: »

What do you mean? Something on the PSU?

haha no, just me being half asleep and when looking at the 110 i typed ,it just looked wrong.