Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

CathalDublin

I like the Sanwa JLF TM with octagonal restrictor plates as a good all rounder.
Good for 8way and easy enough to hit the the corect points on 4way games without the need to switch plates/etc

TechnoFreek

Depending on the cab and I'm guessing it's a woodie and what you plan on running, a neo geo MVS 4 button layout might look well.

Actually a MVS mobo and 161 in 1 cart would be a very nice setup.

o1s1n

Just a reminder, if anyone wants to build an MVS woodie, I still have the CP overlay and 4 slot marquee going...

http://www.adverts.ie/accessories/neo-geo-marquee-and-control-panel-overlay-for-arcade-cabinet/463949

eddhorse

Thanks for all the help guys.

PCB ordered so I will wait until that arrives. Gonna stick with the Jamma rather than MVS.
Then after testing monitor I will look into the Joystick area and possible Jpac and mame or perhaps another cab for that.

So many options but getting arcade educated.

Ed

TechnoFreek

eddhorse wrote: »

Thanks for all the help guys.

PCB ordered so I will wait until that arrives. Gonna stick with the Jamma rather than MVS.

Ed

MVS is jamma!

o1s1n

TechnoFreek wrote: »

MVS is jamma!

Technically it's not 100% jamma as MVS is stereo (well, some of them!)

TechnoFreek

o1s1n wrote: »

Technically it's not 100% jamma as MVS is stereo (well, some of them!)

Are they not all deliver mono over jamma by default with some models being stereo?

Mine is mono but can be modded for stereo!

The Last Bandit

TechnoFreek wrote: »

Are they not all deliver mono over jamma by default with some models being stereo?

Mine is mono but can be modded for stereo!

All the single slots use the Jamma (mono) pinout. The others use the MVS pinout (stereo).

o1s1n

Yep, that's it.

Need to be careful if you ever want to put a multi slot MVS board in a standard jamma cab. There's an adapter you can get which converts the sound to mono.

eddhorse

Yeah sorry that's what I meant earlier. It's setup for Jamma PCB harness already so just waiting for the PCB.

BGOllie

After the megadrive I modded the SMS II, kindly donated by Ciderman:
green power-on led, composite av out and a 50hz/60hz switch.
I'll do an RGB out too .

Wondering wether to put in an FM pack, I kinda like the sound of the PSG

Retr0gamer

Worth it for the Phantasy Star FM soundtrack though.

BGOllie

mmm I suppose... and Y's .

eddhorse

Right so I have a monitor issue.

Kortek KTX26 26″ 110v CGA

No neck glow.

Checked voltage supplied to the board. It is getting the 110v after going through the step down transformer.

So checked continuity on the joints and no issues with fuses as far as I can see.

I have done some soldering before but don't think I have the time or patience for a cap kit.

So what are my options here, where is the best place if any to get it fixed ?

Thanks,
Ed

Optimus Prime

Gunblade on the Jamma plus forums over in the UK. ive posted 3 to him, all came back perfect.

eddhorse

keithgeo wrote: »

Gunblade on the Jamma plus forums over in the UK. ive posted 3 to him, all came back perfect.

Great I had spotted you over there alright, and had him bookmarked.

I'll contact him thanks,
Ed

Mitchomagic

eddhorse wrote: »

Great I had spotted you over there alright, and had him bookmarked.

I'll contact him thanks,
Ed

If you need a pcb let me know I have boxes off them ?

eddhorse

Mitchomagic wrote: »

If you need a pcb let me know I have boxes off them ?

Hey Mitch, no thanks, looks like the monitor aint firing up at all.
Got a cheap PCB but no good without monitor

See what Gunblade can do.

o1s1n

**** yes!!!!

I just fixed a monitor calibration issue I've had with my SNK cab since it landed a couple of years ago. But I feel like a bit of an eejit as it was so easy to fix.

When I originally got it, there was a nasty bend in the top 1/4 of the screen. I managed to adjust it out back then through a bit of pot calibration trickery and all my Neo Geo games (and most boards looked fine, although they were cropped a bit)

However, older stuff still had the bend. And the picture would also be off to the left about an inch and a half with those games due to the above messing about I had to do to get the other boards working right.

So I've had about 5 or so boards I've never been able to play. Metal Black, Rastan and Dinorex come to mind. (Taito seem to be a big offender with this!)

Was testing out some PCBs this evening and noticed the issue was coming up on a Turtles board, so I did a bit of googling. Someone appeared to be having the same problem on AO with a NAC.

'Adjust the Horizontal hold pot a tiny bit and it'll be fixed'

- it can't be as simple as that? I literally spent 5 hours or so inside that cab a couple of years ago adjusting every pot on the chassis.

So I climbed around the back (no remote board!) and found the H.Hold. moved it about 1mm - stepped back around the front of the cab to have a look. Bend completely vanished. Jaw hits the floor.

I still can't believe it was such an easy thing to resolve. And it's been pissing me off for so long. Feel like a right numpty :pac:

So I just spent the last 30 minutes adjusting the screen size pots all over again with a mirror and it looks ****ing glorious! I'm over the moon.

Another helpful side effect of this, my monitor had an annoying buzzing. It seems to be related to the V.Size pot. The larger the image, the louder the buzz. As I was able to configure the monitor properly without worrying about that bend, it meant I could make the image a bit smaller and it took the buzzing volume down loads.

So yeah, very successful evening! I'm off to play the Metal Black PCB for the first time

TechnoFreek

Great result Oisin. I love that feeling when man triumphs over technology especially when it's hard fought like that.

o1s1n

That moment when I finally got the geometry aligned absolutely perfectly after such a hard slog, I could have shed a tear :pac:

It's a really low cab and the chassis is at an angle where you have to lie right down on the floor like you're working under a car.

So you have to climb down, make an adjustment, get back up, look at the mirror, get back down again, adjust etc etc ad nauseam.

Something you've to really watch out for is feckin sweat! do the above 30-40 times over the course of a few minutes and you'll be sweating.

Sweaty hands mere centimeters below HV ... :eek:

Oh a side point, Metal Black is as insane as I remember it being. There's something extremely cinematic about the whole thing, fantastic game.

o1s1n

Argh!!

Get one monitor looking great and then the other one starts to develop major issues.

When I turn on the Pony, two sides of the image 'pinch' in until it becomes stable after about 20 seconds. Like a forced pin cushion effect.

Fairly sure it's a sign of a bad cap on the chassis. It eventually stabilizes and runs grand.

Think I'll take it out and post it off for a service.

CiDeRmAn

o1s1n wrote: »

Argh!!

Get one monitor looking great and then the other one starts to develop major issues.

When I turn on the Pony, two sides of the image 'pinch' in until it becomes stable after about 20 seconds. Like a forced pin cushion effect.

Fairly sure it's a sign of a bad cap on the chassis. It eventually stabilizes and runs grand.

Think I'll take it out and post it off for a service.

But aren't you, like, the Monitor Whisperer?

o1s1n

Damn, was hoping it was just a bit of a glitch but it's persisting now. The monitor takes about 20 seconds to settle (sometimes the image will flash on and off again with an audible 'click').

Going to pop the chassis out whenever I get a bit of free time and post her off. It's probably due a service anyway (and it's about time I tried to discharge a CRT :pac:)

CathalDublin

I found a good seller for pcb components on ebay here
Ordered 9 TTL chips for a total for £6.65 inc shipping to Ireland.
Expect a Taito BB repair soon

eddhorse

Need a little help here.

While my monitor board is being repaired (back next week whoop) I have just been testing with a LCD and the 60 in 1.

So have a new jamma loom and have been connecting up a joystick and 3 buttons.

Connected up with the power supply and doesn't seem to work when game boots up.

See below how basic the testing is.

I have grounded all the leaf switches on the zippy joystick and the same with the buttons.

Something obvious I'm missing?

CathalDublin

Is that PCB resting directly on a metal case:eek:
are your grounds actually grounded?
test continunity between them and the ground on the power supply

eddhorse

Yeah sorry that was just for the picture,

Got my meter out now to test continuity,

Cheers,
Ed

The Last Bandit

What exactly doesn't work ? Are the controls connected to player 1 harness ?

eddhorse

Yeah sorry that was just for the picture,

Got my meter out now to test continuity,

Cheers,
Ed