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Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,772 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    Ah I only glanced at that ad, thought it was mitch. Especially when I saw the pcbs for sale aswell haha


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Ah I only glanced at that ad, thought it was mitch. Especially when I saw the pcbs for sale aswell haha

    Dart Vader is mitches username on adverts,
    Its the same cab on Donedeal too


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    I think I'll skip that point blank machine. Although for the price someone should snap it up.
    I'm thinking maybe the Area 51 cab if it's the normal size version and looks ok.


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,433 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    I've had a little bottle of isopropyl alcohol stored away and never really used it beyond trying to fix some broken stuff. (Would usually try, rather awkwardly, to clean carts with a pencil eraser, which is actually abrasive, so probably not the best idea anyway)

    Yesterday evening I came across a rather stubborn Mario All Stars cart which just wouldn't boot. The Isopropyl was out on a shelf as I had been moving some stuff around, so decided to get some tissue, twist it into a point and put a dab of the stuff on the end.

    Gave the cart edge connector a little wipe (as much as a bit of tissue would allow) - by Jove, instant results!

    Was actually gobsmacked at how well it worked.

    Going to keep the isopropyl bottle beside my consoles and buy some cotton swabs. Stamp this blowing out for good. (ooooh errrr)

    You can get the stuff in a chemists, but much easier to just order it on ebay. Loads of people selling it

    http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=isopropyl+alcohol&_sacat=0&_from=R40


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    o1s1n wrote: »
    I've had a little bottle of isopropyl alcohol stored away and never really used it beyond trying to fix some broken stuff. (Would usually try, rather awkwardly, to clean carts with a pencil eraser, which is actually abrasive, so probably not the best idea anyway)

    Yesterday evening I came across a rather stubborn Mario All Stars cart which just wouldn't boot. The Isopropyl was out on a shelf as I had been moving some stuff around, so decided to get some tissue, twist it into a point and put a dab of the stuff on the end.

    Gave the cart edge connector a little wipe (as much as a bit of tissue would allow) - by Jove, instant results!

    Was actually gobsmacked at how well it worked.

    Going to keep the isopropyl bottle beside my consoles and buy some cotton swabs. Stamp this blowing out for good. (ooooh errrr)

    You can get the stuff in a chemists, but much easier to just order it on ebay. Loads of people selling it

    http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=isopropyl+alcohol&_sacat=0&_from=R40

    Also handy if you are really stuck for the makings of a cocktail :)


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Does anyone have a ROM chip burner? I was thinking of getting one to try fix a couple of arcade boards i have, any recommendations? Are they easy to use?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    I've a GQ-4X programmer and its decent. Will program most arcade stuff, might have difficult with some oddball PAL & GAL chips but will definitely do the majority of EPROMs you're likely to use.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Cool ill check it out, ive never looked at any of this before, whats invovled? hooking it up to a pc, getting the files and burning the chips? where would one get a "Bag of Chips"


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,433 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    In many cases you won't actually need a 'Bag O' Chips', just wipe and reuse the existing eeproms (or salvage equivalent ones from another broken/crappy board)


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    o1s1n wrote: »
    In many cases you won't actually need a 'Bag O' Chips', just wipe and reuse the existing eeproms (or salvage equivalent ones from another broken/crappy board)


    aha, i didnt think of that! cheers.

    quick one, if you had a pcb that wasnt powering on.. would that be a chip or another issue that couldnt be fixed with a new chip?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,433 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Would be checking voltage first before going to chips.

    What's the board? Does it have loads of chips? Might require a little extra voltage to get working.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Get familiar with romident, it will tell you what romset a file corresponds too.

    http://romident.coinopflorida.com/

    Also you need a eprom eraser and a couple of dead boards make great donors for eproms.

    The Mame roms contain the files you'll need to burn, the file name of the rom usually indicates which chip on the board it is. But sometimes the romset holds files for different variants as well.

    Looking at the Mame driver source code is handy as well to identify what roms hold what information. For example here the CPS1 driver code
    http://mamedev.org/source/src/mame/drivers/cps1.c.html

    ROM_START( ghoulsu )
    3635 ROM_REGION( CODE_SIZE, "maincpu", 0 )
    3636 ROM_LOAD16_BYTE( "dmu_29.10h", 0x00000, 0x20000, CRC(334d85b2) SHA1(89bacc28b7c799c7568420e3de5a99060baa7b0f) )
    3637 ROM_LOAD16_BYTE( "dmu_30.10j", 0x00001, 0x20000, CRC(cee8ceb5) SHA1(fc8db1ce0c143dfda0b5989d02d5e5a872e27cd2) )
    3638 ROM_LOAD16_BYTE( "dmu_27.9h", 0x40000, 0x20000, CRC(4a524140) SHA1(cebd651293c3570912d5506c1c223c39bcccc802) )
    3639 ROM_LOAD16_BYTE( "dmu_28.9j", 0x40001, 0x20000, CRC(94aae205) SHA1(514b3c1b9b0b22300a94229825c3be66332ea5ed) )
    3640 ROM_LOAD16_WORD( "dm-17.7j", 0x80000, 0x80000, CRC(3ea1b0f2) SHA1(c51f1c38cdaed77ad715cedd845617a291ab2441) )
    3641
    3642 ROM_REGION( 0x300000, "gfx", 0 )
    3643 ROMX_LOAD( "dm-05.3a", 0x000000, 0x80000, CRC(0ba9c0b0) SHA1(c4945b603115f32b7346d72426571dc2d361159f) , ROM_GROUPWORD | ROM_SKIP(6) )
    3644 ROMX_LOAD( "dm-07.3f", 0x000002, 0x80000, CRC(5d760ab9) SHA1(212176947933fcfef991bc80ad5bd91718689ffe) , ROM_GROUPWORD | ROM_SKIP(6) )
    3645 ROMX_LOAD( "dm-06.3c", 0x000004, 0x80000, CRC(4ba90b59) SHA1(35bc9dec5ddbf064c30c951627581c16764456ac) , ROM_GROUPWORD | ROM_SKIP(6) )
    3646 ROMX_LOAD( "dm-08.3g", 0x000006, 0x80000, CRC(4bdee9de) SHA1(7d0c4736f16577afe9966447a18f039728f6fbdf) , ROM_GROUPWORD | ROM_SKIP(6) )



    You can see that rom dmu_29.10h holds data for the main cpu so is most likely related to the game engine and is located on the PCB at grid "29 10h". Whereas dm-05.3a holds graphics data so not much point messing with it if its a sound problem for example.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    o1s1n wrote: »
    Would be checking voltage first before going to chips.

    What's the board? Does it have loads of chips? Might require a little extra voltage to get working.

    The board i have is a Mortal Kombat 2, I have two of them, one working one not in the same cab so i dont think its related to the power its getting as the other one wouldnt work either.
    Get familiar with romident, it will tell you what romset a file corresponds too.

    Looks like ive a lot of learning to do! ill wait until i get the thing, as i find it easy to learn stuff when i messing about with it.

    The eeprom writer you linked to doesnt wipe the roms does it not? can you recommend an eraser?


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,433 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    keithgeo wrote: »
    The board i have is a Mortal Kombat 2, I have two of them, one working one not in the same cab so i dont think its related to the power its getting as the other one wouldnt work either.

    Does the board just 100% refuse to boot? So a black screen.

    Might just be a broken trace somewhere.

    If you have two of the same board then you are in an opportune position if you ever want to check if it's chip issues - just swap them out from the working board one at a time to the broken board. You can then isolate the dodgy chip.

    Have you tried reseating the socketed chips? You can get oxidation building up on the legs/contacts which can cause issues.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    o1s1n wrote: »
    Does the board just 100% refuse to boot? So a black screen.

    Might just be a broken trace somewhere.

    If you have two of the same board then you are in an opportune position if you ever want to check if it's chip issues - just swap them out from the working board one at a time to the broken board. You can then isolate the dodgy chip.

    Have you tried reseating the socketed chips? You can get oxidation building up on the legs/contacts which can cause issues.

    Never thought of switching the chips over! Would that damage the working chips if something major was wrong?

    There is nothing on screen when i switch it on, there is a light on the board a red one.. but honestly right now i cant remember if that comes on when powered up. ill have to check that again first.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    keithgeo wrote: »
    The eeprom writer you linked to doesnt wipe the roms does it not? can you recommend an eraser?

    You'll need a UV eraser for the Eproms, I got one of these cheap ones and its fine.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    You'll need a UV eraser for the Eproms, I got one of these cheap ones and its fine.

    Thanks a lot!


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,433 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    keithgeo wrote: »
    Never thought of switching the chips over! Would that damage the working chips if something major was wrong?

    There is nothing on screen when i switch it on, there is a light on the board a red one.. but honestly right now i cant remember if that comes on when powered up. ill have to check that again first.

    Yeah, if it's completely blank then it could still be something up with the voltage.

    The boards I've had with dodgy chips (but powered up fine) always had something on the screen, just some part of the image was garbled. (so whatever chip had that data or processor handled it was borked)

    Worst case scenario, one of the non socketed chips like the processor/RAM could be gone bad.

    Actually you know what, a better way of testing your chips would be to put the bad ones into the working board.

    If the working board powers up fine as usual, you know all the chips are good in one go without having to test each one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    I've had boards not show any signs of power when a rom or multiple rom's were bad, same when rams were dead, every board's different.
    Here's a handy site rom checking your read rom files
    http://romident.ki4swy.org/


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    I've a GQ-4X programmer and its decent. Will program most arcade stuff, might have difficult with some oddball PAL & GAL chips but will definitely do the majority of EPROMs you're likely to use.

    Hey, quick one, did you buy that from the US? cant seem to find it anywhere in europe for sale, trying to avoid getting stung on import tax.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    I got it from the UK (Ebay), ya you'll probably get hit with tax alright for the US and I assume Canada is as bad.

    Stick a wanted ad on J+, someone there might be flogging one ?


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Ill try that thanks a lot


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    That's the one I've got, burning anything I throw at it, that one for €400 is the same, I'd imagine the seller has no more in stock and is avoiding the relisting fees


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    keithgeo wrote: »

    Yep that's the one. Fair play to yer man if he gets 400 for it !!!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    haha ill send him a message that cant be right!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    He got back to me anyways and you where right they where out of stock, but he got more back in today and reduced down the price to £79 with free shipping. so just bought one, i bought the eeprom eraser too thanks a lot for the info.

    I just bought WWF Wrestlefest off ebay, working with a graphics issue for 17euro including delivery, so ill practice trying to fix that when it arrives!

    Loved that game in the arcade too so it was on my list of Gets!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Can I phoenix my CPS2 games with one of those?

    I'd send them off to Razoola to be done but I've a load of them and it'd cost a fortune to get them all done. If this did the job I could slowly work my way through them myself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Is the Antex XS25 Soldering Iron any good? I need to do some soldering and am ordering some Raspberry Pi bits and they also sell these for £20 sterling.

    Worth getting?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    That's a pretty high thermal capacity iron , very good for tinning cables or working on larger components attached to ground planes. Very good general purpose iron.
    But you may be better off with the CS18, not as hot so less like to overheat components and its a slightly smaller iron and I find it a lot more comfortable to use on tighter fine pitch stuff.

    No harm in getting both :)


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