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Problems installing a fixed shower head/arm

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  • 22-02-2010 6:10pm
    #1
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,114 ✭✭✭✭


    Hey,
    I posted earlier today in DIY forum, but just thought I would ask in here also.

    Here is the original post.
    Basically I cannot figure out what holds the shower arm in place at all.
    Diagram of shower arm.


    Do I just silicone the back plate to the tiles?
    Thx!


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    #2
    Joey the lips
    Registered Users Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Hey,
    I posted earlier today in DIY forum, but just thought I would ask in here also.

    Here is the original post.
    Basically I cannot figure out what holds the shower arm in place at all.
    Diagram of shower arm.


    Do I just silicone the back plate to the tiles?
    Thx!


    Nope you use a 317w wall plate screwed to the stud or the wall and buried behind the tile in the end. With due respect this is not a DIY job. if you do not seal it correctly you will have an expensive job later.

    Have you thought of an exposed shower valve with a riser rail kit.


    You silicone the cover cap to the wall to keep out water although up this high you should not have much

    Side not.... This is not a good shower in a house with girls.


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    #3
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,114 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Joey the lips wrote: »
    Nope you use a 317w wall plate screwed to the stud or the wall and buried behind the tile in the end.
    Yeah I picked up a wall plate bend today, but my concern here is that unless I get the finished thickness of the wall+cement+tile exactly right, Im either not going to get a good seal or will have exposed threads on the arm.
    Its a 3bar pumped shower so I definitely want the connection to be solid.
    Joey the lips wrote: »
    With due respect this is not a DIY job. if you do not seal it correctly you will have an expensive job later.
    If its not DIY I'm in a spot of bother as Ive already gutted the old room and 1/2 finished the new one :D

    What are you saying needs to be sealed correctly? I presume you are talking about the tray etc?
    Joey the lips wrote: »
    Have you thought of an exposed shower valve with a riser rail kit.
    Have already installed the concealed value etc.
    Joey the lips wrote: »

    You silicone the cover cap to the wall to keep out water although up this high you should not have much
    Note that the cap screws on, its not just sitting there... (its effectively a nut)
    Joey the lips wrote: »
    Side not.... This is not a good shower in a house with girls.

    Why do you say that? Because they cant take the head down from the wall?
    Its only in the ensuite so if she wants to do weird stuff she can use the main bath :)

    Cheers.


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    #4
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,114 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I'm thinking of fixing the wall plate to the block wall the using
    this & this (cut to length) to ensure I have the correct depth?

    The wall cavity with tile will be around 90mm.


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    #5
    Joey the lips
    Registered Users Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    Yeah I picked up a wall plate bend today,

    Cool

    but my concern here is that unless I get the finished thickness of the wall+cement+tile exactly right, Im either not going to get a good seal or will have exposed threads on the arm.

    Spot on... The biggest problem with them.Usually what we did was leave that space big enough for one tile and fit the final tile(cut) and the bar at the same time. obv the wall plate will have to be secured first.

    Its a 3bar pumped shower so I definitely want the connection to be solid.
    If its not DIY I'm in a spot of bother as Ive already gutted the old room and 1/2 finished the new one :D

    Enough said.

    What are you saying needs to be sealed correctly? I presume you are talking about the tray etc?

    No! the 317w wall plate. and the head your fitting.

    Have already installed the concealed value etc.

    Grand however a concealed valve can be made for an exposed kit with a chrome elbow.

    Note that the cap screws on, its not just sitting there... (its effectively a nut)

    Cool

    Why do you say that? Because they cant take the head down from the wall?

    Yep!

    Its only in the ensuite so if she wants to do weird stuff she can use the main bath :)

    Ah ha.... Thats what you think ;)


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    #6
    items
    Closed Accounts Posts: 672 ✭✭✭items


    GreeBo wrote: »
    I'm thinking of fixing the wall plate to the block wall the using
    this & this (cut to length) to ensure I have the correct depth?

    The wall cavity with tile will be around 90mm.

    Leave face of wall plate just below finished tile, anymore and you might have to cut down threads on fixed shower head. Make sure wall plate is fixed solid and perfectly level / square, tape up opening before slab and tile to stop any debris entering. If wall plate is slightest bit off level or off square things look real bad when fixing head so take time making sure wall plate is fixed bang on. If you can offset head away from valve, saves getting hands wet when turning on shower.

    Another thing to watch out for, height of wall plate, add a bit more to height to allow for drop in shower head, can be anything up to 4" in difference from wall plate center to shower head face.

    Its a good idea to protect pipe work if chased into block wall, with hot water their is expansion and contraction, might be a bit of expansion in cold also (pressure) if you've room insulate chased pipes, if not cover pipes with a few layers of duck tape / gaff tape saves pipes been damaged from a rough block wall.


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    #7
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,114 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Joey the lips wrote: »
    Spot on... The biggest problem with them.Usually what we did was leave that space big enough for one tile and fit the final tile(cut) and the bar at the same time. obv the wall plate will have to be secured first.
    I'm sheeting the wall in 9mm WBP so I guess I can leave a hole big enough to work in and have the tiler miss out that tile. Good idea.
    Joey the lips wrote: »
    No! the 317w wall plate. and the head your fitting.
    Gotcha. PTFE and 1/4 turn after hand tight.
    Joey the lips wrote: »
    Grand however a concealed valve can be made for an exposed kit with a chrome elbow.
    Yeah we were half thinking about that but decided since its the ensuite (and its tiny) minimalist was the way to go.
    Joey the lips wrote: »
    Ah ha.... Thats what you think ;)

    No comment :D


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    #8
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,114 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    items wrote: »
    Another thing to watch out for, height of wall plate, add a bit more to height to allow for drop in shower head, can be anything up to 4" in difference from wall plate center to shower head face.

    Its a good idea to protect pipe work if chased into block wall, with hot water their is expansion and contraction, might be a bit of expansion in cold also (pressure) if you've room insulate chased pipes, if not cover pipes with a few layers of duck tape / gaff tape saves pipes been damaged from a rough block wall.

    Thanks, I measured the spot for the wall plate with the head and arm attached so height should be spot on. Also the head swivels so there is room to maneuver.
    Pipes are "chased" through 50mm rigid kingspan covered with 9mm WBP so should be happy enough!


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