Climb Mont Blanc

cphowlin

Hi,

Just wondering if anyone on here has climbed Mont Blanc with a guide... If so which company did you use and would you recommend them? I am hoping to do it in June or July this year...

I see some of the companies offer climbing courses with mont blanc as an extension, anybody any experience with them?

Any advice greatly appreciated!

testicle

cphowlin wrote: »

Hi,

Just wondering if anyone on here has climbed Mont Blanc with a guide... If so which company did you use and would you recommend them? I am hoping to do it in June or July this year...

I see some of the companies offer climbing courses with mont blanc as an extension, anybody any experience with them?

Any advice greatly appreciated!

It's no easy task, and be prepared for the weather not allowing you up.

Use Stage Expe - http://www.stagexpe.com/ - local guides, and they'll do English speaking too. The Irish/UK guides out there are way overpriced.

SomeFool

Climbed with these guys, I'd recommend them, Chamonix based but they're Austrians.
http://www.mountain-spirit-guides.com/mont-blanc.asp

Should add that while you're there that the Cosmique ridge is a great climb if you get the opportunity.

cphowlin

Thanks for the suggestions guys...:)

claxxix

I used these guides on Mount Blanc last year. They were very good. They are based in the Italien town of Courmayeur and i think they are much cheaper than most chamonix guides.

http://www.guidecourmayeur.com

K09

Hi,
How much would it cost to climb Mount Blanc??
Thanks.

Mitch Buchannon

Im out in chamonix at the moment. My mates are heading up the Aguile Du Midi and will have views of the mountain.
Regarding guides, there is an Irish company called Wilder Places. I havent used them but they have a good reputation.

Roen

Can definitely give a +1 for wilderplaces.
Had Robbie Fenlon from there as a tutor at the MCI summer alpine meet in July and he was excellent.

K09

testicle wrote: »

It's no easy task, and be prepared for the weather not allowing you up.

Use Stage Expe - http://www.stagexpe.com/ - local guides, and they'll do English speaking too. The Irish/UK guides out there are way overpriced.

I emailed Stage Expe 3weeks ago but as of yet have got no reply.

When would be the besr time to hike Mt Blanc and is Bosses Ridge as dangerous and terrifying as it sounds??
Thanks!

Evil Phil

I guess it would be July to September really.

Tells

I've climbed it twice in August and found it fine that time of year..

The Bosses ridge is quite scary but non technical so you'll be fine as long as you have your wits about you..

MotteDai

This is on my List and once having children and all family weddings are out of the way I'm all over it, Im not a technical climber however.

Will a non technical climber just with good fitness and hillwalking skills be okay for this? Does one need glacier/Crampon training?

Tells

MotteDai wrote: »

This is on my List and once having children and all family weddings are out of the way I'm all over it, Im not a technical climber however.

Will a non technical climber just with good fitness and hillwalking skills be okay for this? Does one need glacier/Crampon training?

I personally don't like giving advice on Alpine climbing as there's so much involved and my thoughts or ideas might be completely different to the next persons.

The Gouter route is a non technical slog, but quite enjoyable if conditions are right.

The Grand Couloir is really the only dangerous part of the route as rockfall is a constant worry! You then have the 700m scramble of grade IIish. For this you need to be confident at scrambling.
The Bosses ridge is where you need to be mentally prepared i.e have your wits about you.
A lot of people turn back at this point for many reasons like not acclimatising properly or not being in good physical shape so when faced with the "Boss" it's very easy to give up..

You should definitely have some crampon use experience but you don't need to do a course in how to use them. You do cross a glacier, however it's mainly free from crevasses except for one, which is right on your route so it's very important to be roped up for this section and continue roped up for the Bosses ridge.

Remember, even if physically and mentally prepared it's not a pleasant experience sleeping at almost 4000m but certainly one you'll remember.

T.

adagio

I think caution should be the name of the game here.. including posting advice on this site regarding alpine climbing/mountaineering.
Background - I'm part of a team of 5 who will be climbing Grand Paradiso/Mt Blanc..(and a few rock climbing routes - fingers crossed) this summer (July).
We are novices when it comes to Alpine climbing/mountaineering - two of us are rock climbers/two are learning and one is threatening to learn - hiking extensively in Eire and been to Ben Nevis/Snowdon (horseshoe routes).
We have decided to climb unguided as a challenge and training has already started - stamina/movement on steep ground w/backpack/scrambling and off to Scotland in three weeks for crampon/ice axe course.
One of the guys has done a crevasse rescue course/climbed in France/Switzerland..etc.. and I have used crampons/ice axe before..
Only reason I mention the above is to give context to my comments below:
As we are going unguided I have decided to do as much research as possible and have found that it's incredible how many differing opinions there are on any related topic... amongst skilled climbers/mountaineers!
For what it's worth I would advise caution when discussing the use of ropes/ice axe/crampons w/complete novices'... as the dangers of not understanding how to use crampons/ice axe in certain situations can lead to a nasty fall or the inability to arrest a fall.
W/regard to using a rope - this will not be something you will have to consider if you are going w/a guide as they will take the responsibility and decide when a rope is necessary.
If I were to give any advice it would be to ask as many questions as possible/do your own research (even if you are using a guide as you'll gain more enjoyment out of the experience) and do not take any one's word as gospel... make your own mind up when you have all the facts/advice.
I would highly recommend purchasing 'Winterskills - essential walking and climbing techniques' by Andy Cunningham and Allen Fyffe... an essential tool in any wannabe mountaineer's kit.
Maybe I'll see some of ye later in the year.
A.:D

testicle

K09 wrote: »

I emailed Stage Expe 3weeks ago but as of yet have got no reply.

It's the off season, I would expect they'll reply soon.

Ref Robbie Fenlon, compare his prices. Last time I looked, he was twice the price of the locals.

pirelli

K09 wrote: »

Hi,
How much would it cost to climb Mount Blanc??
Thanks.

It's quite cheap.

You can hire gear for the climb for around 20 euros - 30 euros in chamonix.
The accomodation varies and i would recommend a hotel and there are some very nice cheap hotels. There is a (ymca) youth hostel in chamonix which is obviously very cheap under 20 euro a night but be wary of your leaving any gear about and also it is 15 - 20 minute walk from the main village but is much nearer the starting point for mount blanc and also there are some good mountain trails just above it that will help you acclimatise.


Climbing Mount blanc can be done from the valley to the top but this is so so long that you will be exhausted. Most people use either use the Bellevue cable car from Les Houches to get started and get high fast to get acclimatised.The walk from the telegraphic to the Nid d'Aigle will test your fitness. You can take a mountain tram to Nid d'Aigle but again its more money.

To save money you are going to have be super fit. Walk from the valley to tete rosse and acclimatise and then walk all the way back again. Rest for at least a day and then back up again and rest at tete rosse and then stay the night higher up in the gouter hut. Tackle the mountain in the morning.

Or

Be super fit and bring a tent and top of the range sleeping bag and spend a night on tete ross glacier and another night by the gouter hut. You can set up camp in the snow. Many people do this.It is free.

TIPS. Just as you reach tete rosse glacier ( literally when you step onto it a few meters in there is a underground water stream. You can hear it gushing if you listen. Use this to get free water. Water is heavy to carry and expensive at the huts.

TIPS 2 Bring some short light ski's as you can ski down the bottom part of the bosse ridge and most of the route back to the gouter hut from the summit. Also to the summit there is a long route that is downhill as far as the vallot emergency hut.

In order to acclimatise I went as far as Tete Rousse 3,200 meters then went back again to Nid d'Aigle and as it was at night there was no tram so used the silent tram line to get to a path that leads back to the valley. It was a killer of walk but it is great for getting acclimatised. I also prior to this walked a few smaller climbs.

If you are unfit and stuck for time and not much money you will find it difficult to acclimatise because it will mean a trip up by foot a little higher than tete rousse gouter hut for the night or making use of the trams and telegrahic which are all around 20 euros rtn each.

If you have time you can pace yourself and walk higher each day until your ready.

My technique was to walk to tete rosse and back again and the next day walk to tete rosse and stay the night and in the morning set off at 4- 5 am up to the gouter hut. At that time of morning the Grand Couloir is frozen there is little risk of rock fall. The Grand Couloir is much misunderstood.

It is actually only a very small part of the route. From the solid rocky outcrop it is a maybe 30 meters of snow and ice on a very steep terrain that you have traverse and then climb 40 meters or so to the next rocky out crop which brings you back on solid ground. Above Grand coulier is a gully where high winds blow small rocks which tumble down the gully (and sometimes they dislodge larger stones and thats one danger ) at a 45 degree angle and bounce through the Grand coulier traverse and whizz past your head and until they drop of the edge.

What people havent mentioned about the grand coulier is that if you slip higher up in the traverse at night when its very icy you will slide un mercilessly down the steep snowy ridge and fall maybe 500 meters free fall down to the glacier below.

I was not expecting that part of the Grand coulier. The next late morning 11am on my return from the mont blanc i did encounter some little rocks and had stare one down and dodge it by ducking and diving. It flew past my head by a few inches. That said they were not as scary as climbing the grand coulier traverse at 4am when its pitch dark and the ice is rock hard and slippy. I used the ice axe to really dig in and get a grip with each step. At one point i had to take a risk and reposition my foot position by jumping onto a snow hollow at the most dangerous part. It was a risk i wasn't expecting i would have to make at such an early stage of what people call an easy climb.

It is dangerous not only for rock fall but for anyone who isnt good with an ice axe. You will need an ice axe to survive this at night as its solid and icy and one slip and your will fall down

The rocks climb up to the gouter hut after Grand coulier is also dangerous in some parts and it is hard to follow the yellow markings at night so you might end up climbing solo up some hard rock before you find the yellow marker route.

The gouter hut is 3,800 meters and its an amazing place to get too. It covered in thick ice and is a different world of ice and snow and packed solid with walkers. You will feel you have joined the the mountaineer club when you reach this hut. Truly the best experience.

Yes you can easily do this with a cheap flight and a good sleeping bag and tent. You Should be able to pack it all in as hand luggage and arrive at chamonix and hire crampons boots and ice axe, its all in pack skip the telegrapic and tram and just walk up and arrive night fall and camp there for the night.

Then camp higher up and you should be ready to go. Do not buy and food or water up there. As it is expensive.

It will cost flights only (ryanair) and one night or two nights in ymca if you do it this way with little or no extra costs.

Otherwise i think it is over 20 euro a night in gouter hut/ tete rosse hut.
Water is 5 euro and food is 18 euro.Remember it is in very isloated place that high up. Also use the toilets in tete rosse and gouter do not pee in the snow as it will remain there for years

pirelli

K09 wrote: »

I emailed Stage Expe 3weeks ago but as of yet have got no reply.

When would be the besr time to hike Mt Blanc and is Bosses Ridge as dangerous and terrifying as it sounds??
Thanks!

Bosses Ridge is just really taxing as the air so thin. It is 4,600 meters up and it is very steep and you have to use your ice axe with many steps but not dangerous. At certain points it is dangerous because your fall would take you into the abyss. Although 75 % of it would drop you back towards the vallot hut which would be non fatal. I have a photo looking down the boss ridge i will post it. I toboggoned down the lower part of the bosse ridge using my rucksack to save energy so its not that bad.

On a good day you can see for miles and miles but if the wind if it kicks up will create a blizzard like situation where you canot see in front of you very well. This is dangerous but it all depends on the situation. The piss stains along the way can be used to navigate back to the gouter hut in heavy wind but the goutier hut is hard to find in such weather as it is hidden under a ridge and just beyond it is some treacherous slopes. So care has to be taken when approaching the hut.

adagio

Absolutley cracking info Pirelli... much appreciated.:D
I may pm you at a later date to bend your ear.
Cheers.:pac:

pirelli

adagio wrote: »

Absolutley cracking info Pirelli... much appreciated.:D
I may pm you at a later date to bend your ear.
Cheers.:pac:

More than welcome. PM me I am happy to provide what little info i have to climbers.

K09

pirelli wrote: »

Bosses Ridge is just really taxing as the air so thin. It is 4,600 meters up and it is very steep and you have to use your ice axe with many steps but not dangerous. At certain points it is dangerous because your fall would take you into the abyss. Although 75 % of it would drop you back towards the vallot hut which would be non fatal. I have a photo looking down the boss ridge i will post it. I toboggoned down the lower part of the bosse ridge using my rucksack to save energy so its not that bad.

On a good day you can see for miles and miles but if the wind if it kicks up will create a blizzard like situation where you canot see in front of you very well. This is dangerous but it all depends on the situation. The piss stains along the way can be used to navigate back to the gouter hut in heavy wind but the goutier hut is hard to find in such weather as it is hidden under a ridge and just beyond it is some treacherous slopes. So care has to be taken when approaching the hut.

Thanks for the great info!!! I am not the best at heights but am ok after a while. Would the Bosses ridge be an issue??

Also when is an ideal time to hike Mt Blanc - regarding the weather?

And I've been considering doing Mt Blanc and Elbrus this year but heard august is best time for both!!! Is this correct?

Thanks again!

pirelli

Hi i said i would Post a photo i had of the vallot Hut. It is very hard to work out a mountain route from photographs if you haven't been there. All of these photographs are beyond the Dome de Gouter.

adagio

Nice photo's...

After much research... we will do the trois mont route instead of the gouter.
For a few reasons:

• Nice introduction to mountaineering
• less crowded - I know it may still be busy.. but no where near as busy as the gouter
• More challenging - obviously weather depending.

We may return on the same route.. once again weather depending and time of day.
Depending on conditions I may bivvy instead of using the huts (but this will only occur if the weather is acceptable).

Heading to Scotland this weekend for group training... weather and conditions are cracking @ the moment.:D

A.

pirelli

K09 wrote: »

Thanks for the great info!!! I am not the best at heights but am ok after a while. Would the Bosses ridge be an issue??

Also when is an ideal time to hike Mt Blanc - regarding the weather?

And I've been considering doing Mt Blanc and Elbrus this year but heard august is best time for both!!! Is this correct?

Thanks again!

Also when is an ideal time to hike Mt Blanc - regarding the weather?

Regarding weather it is July August and september is either the most reliable for good weather conditions or can be reliably bad for weather conditions.

Less traffic in september with July and August the busiest. By october there is too much snow and Goutier hut closes in september. In fact late August is the best time because the hut closed on the 1st of september when i was there. Maybe it was due to bad weather but thats what i remember. September is much riskier and all the tents were gone by september due to weather forecasts and bad weather.

Mt Blanc in bad weather is very very dangerous. A blizzard will almost certainly mean certain disaster. High winds also kick up the snow and it reduces visibility considerably with wind chill of up to -60 degrees celcius. On a clear day its a walk in the park with temperture maybe only - 20 or - 30 degrees but that it can change very quickly with wind. You cannot survive in that kind of weather. The vallot hut is an excellent wind shelter but very basic and not somewhere you want to spend any amount of time. There is plenty of rubbish in it though and lots of ripped survival bags.

Just after the bosses ridge a storm came onto Mt Blanc and as i was the second last group up there it was very nervous for me, A guide and two climbers were still up there and i cannot say what happened to them and i never saw them again. High winds came, you cannot see it in the photograph but there were clouds looming that bothered me.

I literally slid down the bosses ridge using my ice axe as a brake. Then half ran for the goutier. I just made it off the goutier when visibility became almost zero. I was staying in the goutier hut and after i arrived that evening everyone was asking me about the weather as there were reports of really bad weather for the next few weeks and i said that it was over for this season, that it was far too windy and stormy. I remember one english guy getting really pissed off and this was his second or third attempt and each time he had to turn back due to bad weather.

I was second last to descend before the season closed that assuming the guide and his two hostages survived. The next morning a huge group tried to make it up and they only got as far as the goutier dome and had to return. The weather turned nasty and very windy.

It's possible groups from the tete rosse went up on clear days in september but as far the goutier it was closed and i think that year september was one of those bad weather seasons.

ludzer

I'm heading over to Chamonix on Sunday 18th July to tackle Mt B, going with STAGES & EXPEDITIONS. Friends used these guys last yr and said they were very good so that was good enough for me. cost with them was 995 which covers most things during the week, then you have to look after your flights and transfers and accomidation on the night before and last night.
I've bought most of my gear new as I like my toys. I did a lot of price research before I bought and got the best possible price on everything except my boots which I saw in a different shop for over 100 cheaper (I'm telling myself they didnt have them in my size, and I didnt ask otherwise I'd have cried). So if anyone wants info on gear prices let me know, have a price comparasion list done - not sure if I can post shop names up here or not, anyone???

Hopefully all prepared fitness wise, nearly lost my climbing partner, when we had a little cycle accident a couple of weeks back, hopefully it will slow him down..:D

Could anyone who's been tell me what size of water bladder they took, I have a 2ltr but thinking to get a 3ltr, just worried about weight but I'd drink a lot.

claxxix

Hi ya,

Could you send me onn that price comparison list if u can please. I, like you have bought lots of new toys for mountaineering of late but as you know yourself there always room for one more gadget. lol.
Regarding the water situation for Mt Blanc. I summitted it last week with a 2 litre water bladder and a half litre bottle of Poweraid. The guide said only to bring the water as he was concerned about weight but i needed it all in the end. Id recommend plenty of fluids the night before and tank up on the orange juice for breakfast at the hut. Water bottles are a fiver a pop up at the hut so a little prep will have you money.


regards,
claxxix

SomeFool

claxxix wrote: »

Hi ya,

I summitted it last week

Congrats Did you get good weather?

claxxix

Hi Niall,

Yep the weather was great....got a good window of weather but it was "sorching hot" according to the weather forecast in Chamonix at the time. Because we headed off at 2am and tore up the 3 monts route we were back and down in 8 hrs before it got too hot and the snow turned to slush. A climbing buddy of mine did it the week before and it too him 13 hrs. He was wrecked after it and it took him a week to reccover his strenght..... Good aclimitisation, fitness training and hydration are vital to making a safe and fast ascent. I think goin up on the early cable car at 7.00 am and then starting to climb is one way of making life tough for yourself as the heat and snow condition greatly decrease your chances of sucess. Thankfully i didnt need to do any of that creavase rescue stuff we learnt back in kerry.

Good luck on Elbrus. Keep me posted and let me know how y get on.

claxxix

ludzer

Was looking at these glasses for Mt Blanc, anyone got any thoughts on the matter?
http://www.snowandrock.com/adidas-elevation-clima-cool/sunglasses/ski-snowboard-outdoor-sports/fcp-product/23

SomeFool

I wore these, Oakley fives 2.0 polarised, found them perfect.

ludzer

Right, and you were ok with any side-wall protection on the glasses?

Evil Phil

They look like wrap-arounds. I've found wrap-arounds to be fine as long as the they're close to your skin.

Sev

Don't get too hung up on fine details. It's not necessary that you have the most expensive wrap around glasses etc. that needs to be bought in advance in Ireland etc. If you go out and buy brand new everything right down to the finest detail in Ireland, then your Mont Blanc expedition can get very expensive indeed. For example, any pair of Category 3 CE rated sunglasses will do. If there are gaps letting stray light in etc. then duct tape will solve that job. Never underestimate the power of duct tape.

Sometimes you might be down off the mountain early, and it might be a dull overcast day, in which case you might never even wear your sunglasses at all*.

But remember... EVERYTHING you will need to climb Mont Blanc can be bought in Chamonix for a fraction of the price you will pay in Ireland.

If I were you, I would pick up any spare bits and bobs in Technique Extreme on Avenue de l'Aguille du Midi. It's a fantastic resource... its like rambler's way on Mary St. except with climbing gear! If you don't pick up sunglasses suitable for the job there, then there is a pharmacy a 30 second walk further down the road. You'll also get rucksacks, gloves, socks, gaiters, water bottles etc....

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Chamonix,+france&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=36.368578,79.013672&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Chamonix,+Haute-Savoie,+Rh%C3%B4ne-Alpes,+France&layer=c&cbll=45.919531,6.868747&panoid=s476Nm6chtMg-Cw4G_ZPjw&cbp=12,161.36,,0,5.3&ll=45.919423,6.868923&spn=0.001952,0.004823&z=18

*That said, the strength of the sun is extremely magnified on the mountain with all the snow and diffuse reflections through cloud etc. So even on a cloudy day you can get very sunburnt. I would carry a spare cheaper pair of sungasses and a small bottle of high factor sun cream. It would be terrible to have to abort your Mont Blanc climb or risk snow blindness because you misplaced your only pair of sunglasses in the hut somewhere.

ludzer

Well unfortunately we won't make it up to the summit of mt blanc this time, after 33 days of sun, the day we are due to begin the cloud appears and high winds and snow are due, done a few good climbs though up to 3500 and 4000 to be done Grand Paradiso tomorrow. Very p1ssed off not getting the chance but that's life.
On the equipment point I got cat 4 glasses here for 80, other items boots, gaiters, etc all seem in or around the same price as at home.

claxxix

Hi Ludzer,

Sorry to hear your Mt Blanc summit bid has been scraped. I know that feeling! Its the pits.... I was there last year and had to come home without making a summit bid due to adverse weather conditions. Thankfully, the weather cut us a break this year a few weeks ago. Your day will come man.

Regards,
claxxix

Sev

ludzer1 wrote: »

Well unfortunately we won't make it up to the summit of mt blanc this time, after 33 days of sun, the day we are due to begin the cloud appears and high winds and snow are due, done a few good climbs though up to 3500 and 4000 to be done Grand Paradiso tomorrow. Very p1ssed off not getting the chance but that's life.
On the equipment point I got cat 4 glasses here for 80, other items boots, gaiters, etc all seem in or around the same price as at home.

Sorry to hear that, that sucks. At least you got some other climbs in. Mont Blanc isn't everything. I've been to chamonix twice now for climbing and have never even considered Mont Blanc as an option, there's so much else there to do too! I don't know if thats any consolation!

At least now you know Chamonix and hopefully have a bit of alpine experience and understanding of the high mountain environment. Next time you could just head back with a friend and do it without a guide?

Do check out technique extreme, there are bargains to be had!

Sev

If you don't make it back to the Alps before the end of the season, you could pull out that ice axe again by trying Ben Nevis in the Winter.

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150801/ben-nevis.html

(That said theres still climbing to be had in the Alps in winter too)

ludzer

Sev wrote: »

Sorry to hear that, that sucks. At least you got some other climbs in. Mont Blanc isn't everything. I've been to chamonix twice now for climbing and have never even considered Mont Blanc as an option, there's so much else there to do too! I don't know if thats any consolation!

At least now you know Chamonix and hopefully have a bit of alpine experience and understanding of the high mountain environment. Next time you could just head back with a friend and do it without a guide?

Do check out technique extreme, there are bargains to be had!

I dont know if I'd risk it without a guide to be honest, saying that I would not go with the guide we took, he p1ssed us off no end, did nothing but spoke French to the other 4 in our group. We had to ask for a translation the whole time which was crap. Plenty of Irish/English/Scottish guides over there now I have learned so will be hiring one of them privately next time.

ludzer

Sev wrote: »

If you don't make it back to the Alps before the end of the season, you could pull out that ice axe again by trying Ben Nevis in the Winter.

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150801/ben-nevis.html

(That said theres still climbing to be had in the Alps in winter too)

Yeah I've climbed Ben Nevis years and years ago, but we deffinately intend to head over there once winter shows its face again, looking forward to that already.

K09

Hi,

What is the easiest but reasonably cheap way of getting to Chamonix? Aerlingus flights to Geneva are bit pricey @250euro. Ryanair don't seem to fly anywhere close.

Thanks.

SomeFool

Milan or Zurich or Lyon/Grenoble i suppose and train/bus from there.
Try looking at flying through London,probably the easiest option, skyscanner.net is good.

a148pro

Anyone have any views on whether going up to the Aiguille de Midi lift station and spending time up there would help for acclimatisation? Basically I don't want to have to pay a guide for acclimatisation, I thought I could just go up to the lift station and spend the day up there, reading, jogging on the spot (!), taking photos?

I think it would be too dangerous to go out onto the glacier up there on my own.

Or does anyone know of any easy hikes I could do on my own? Was thinking as well I could just climb up to the top station at Les Grand Montets, but I suspect the piste which comes down from there is actually on a glacier too?

Esel

^ It would certainly help. Bring a full (heavy) rucksack, and go up and down some of the stairs for a couple of hours at a time. Not at a fast pace, obviously.

Be very fit before you head over.

Sev

You could stay a night in the Cosmiques hut (3613m)? I've never been to it, but I believe it's a short walk (less than an hour) from the Aiguille du Midi cable car station and the route should be very well trodden. My understanding is, however, that the way is over glacier and roped travel is advised. Also the initial few steps straight out of the cable car station take you onto a rather exposed snow ridge with steepish drops to either side.

However, it really is only a short walk from the cable car station, so all you would need to do is find somebody else (or another party) with experience who are also heading to the Cosmiques hut and ask if you can join their rope. You may find somebody to team up with at the cable car station? at your hostel/campsite/hotel? at the office de haute montagne? Knowledge of French will help.

You will need to book the hut in advance however, it will fill up easily during the summer season.

Sev

I've also spent a night in the toilets of the Aiguille du Midi cable car station. This isn't really an option though. They close down the station at night, but leave the entrance open and the heating system on in the toilets for aiding stranded climbers.

a148pro

Lol at the toilets! That's determination for you!

Yes I did think about going down to Cosmiques, I'll be staying there the night before the climb anyway (doing the 3 Monts Route, hopefully).

Two probs with going down on my own though. One, the arete mightn't be roped, any of the videos of seen this year from it show it unroped. Not mad on walking down it without a rope, even with crampons. Fall to the left and I'm effectively dead.

Two, the route down from the arete to Cosmiques is over a glacier. I reckon if I chanced it in flip flops 99 times out of a hundred I'd be fine but I don't think it's a good idea to do it alone. Thanks for the suggestion of asking someone else to rope up with but I'm effectively a complete beginner as I don't remember anything of value from the last time I wore a rope and harness and I'd hate to impose on other people and have them thinking they're effectively responsible for me.

Unless other people have any views on how easy it is to get down to Cosmiques?

Also, will it not benefit me enough simply spending the day at 3800m, rather than trying to sleep there? I thought it was climb high sleep low...?

SomeFool

When are you there? Might be there in early August and if you want to rope yourself onto SomeFool and cross to the Cosmiques.

a148pro

thanks some fool (some fool indeed;)) but I hope to be there next week.

Anyway, how would I get back!?!

SomeFool

a148pro wrote: »

Anyway, how would I get back!?!

Return journey would be €50 or a nice bottle of red. Good luck next week!

Esel

a148pro wrote: »

Also, will it not benefit me enough simply spending the day at 3800m, rather than trying to sleep there? I thought it was climb high sleep low...?

No need for you to overnight, really. Climb high, sleep low would apply more to the greater ranges, imo.

If your first outing is going straight from the valley, via the telefrique, to the Midi, then planning to exercise strenuously for an extended period while there, you might well experience some mild symtoms of altitude sickness. Think nausea, lassitude, headache - feeling knackered, basically!

I know I did, first time at about 3,000m. That was after climbing to that height. It cleared up, but I remember feeling like a wet dishrag, and that breathing (gasping) didn't seem to do much for me.... It was a one-off, but a physiological response all the same.

a148pro

Thanks esel. Apart from mild paranoia I've always been good at altitude, but touch wood because there's no guarantee that'll continue. Anyway, i've never really exercised as hard as I will here, dragging myself up snow slopes with a heavy pack, that's obviously when I'm going to feel it. I remember being up one of the higher lifts when skiing and dragging myself up thirty yards up the slope to take a photo, jesus you realise why they have ski lifts....

Sev

a148pro wrote: »

Lol at the toilets! That's determination for you!
Two probs with going down on my own though. One, the arete mightn't be roped, any of the videos of seen this year from it show it unroped. Not mad on walking down it without a rope, even with crampons. Fall to the left and I'm effectively dead.

You've done your homework. Yeah, if you slide down the left you'll eventually find yourself at the bottom of the Frendo Spur. Incidentally, a British climber fell and died on this face last week.

http://news.sky.com/skynews/Home/UK-News/Scottish-Climber-Robbie-Cammack-19-Dies-After-Falling-1300ft-In-A-Storm-In-The-French-Alps/Article/201106316012110

When I climbed the spur at about this time last year, there was no rope on the snow ridge. I believe this is only up in the winter season. In fact I stumbled up this ridge in the dark, blissfully ignorant to the drops on either side. But if you have a good head for heights it's not so bad, just take careful steps, the ridge is reasonably wide.

Two, the route down from the arete to Cosmiques is over a glacier. I reckon if I chanced it in flip flops 99 times out of a hundred I'd be fine but I don't think it's a good idea to do it alone. Thanks for the suggestion of asking someone else to rope up with but I'm effectively a complete beginner as I don't remember anything of value from the last time I wore a rope and harness and I'd hate to impose on other people and have them thinking they're effectively responsible for me.

As I said, I've never walked down to the Cosmiques hut and can't really say how dangerous it might be, but I agree with your assessment. In any case, I still think its definitely worth asking around in Chamonix. And if you're planning on heading up to the Midi station to chill out for a day, you might as well bring your climbing gear too just in case you do meet some people who are heading to the cosmiques that will take you under their wing.

Also, as far as glacier travel is concerned, the more people on a rope, the safer. There are more bodies to hold a fall and more man power to help with any potential rescue effort. Going on a snow covered glacier in a team of two is the most dangerous way to go (solo is more dangerous of course!), and for this reason, I would happily welcome a novice onto my rope if I was crossing a dangerous glacier. That said, I wouldn't be as quick to welcome a novice for traversing a narrow snow ridge.

Unless other people have any views on how easy it is to get down to Cosmiques?

You could ask on climbing.ie?

Also, will it not benefit me enough simply spending the day at 3800m, rather than trying to sleep there? I thought it was climb high sleep low...?

From my experience at altitude (in the Andes, Nepal, Tibet, Kilimanjaro), the more time you spend at altitude, the better. This means sleep at altitude if at all possible.

You could consider getting Diamox tablets (acetazolamide). You take them a few days before and during your stint at altitude and they help the body acclimatise (They also make fizzy drinks taste incredibly strange and worth trying them for the taste altering effects alone!)

You can only get them by prescription in Ireland, but I'd say you'll have little trouble getting them if you really want them. Just visit your doctor and say you're going to climb Mont Blanc and that you're worried about acclimatisation.