Flooding Plumbing and Heating Questions

items

I've noticed many questions coming in from the flooding victims in relation to their plumbing and heating systems. I am a Qualified Plumber with over 15 years experience, If you have any Plumbing and Heating questions feel free to ask below, I'll do my best to help out, I'll be online as much as I can.

As the questions come in I'll try to remember to highlight each answer with a reference, ie if its a shower answer I'll mark it as shower etc. You might find the answer to your question already posted below, scroll down and look for the reference in bold (black).

Dudess

That's great, Items. Cheers.

items

Dudess wrote: »

That's great, Items. Cheers.

No bother.

Mains water supply (turning off mains to reduce contamination risks)

First bit of advice I would like to give is the possibility of turning off your own water supply if you've been given notice of disruption to water service.

Some areas have been given a water notice but might find themselves having the mains water come back on unexpectedly. There is a list of possibility's as to why something like this could happen, also included in the list could be the possibility of that water being contaminated. Instead of going into the details I would suggest turning off your own supply if you have concerns over other household users possibly using the water that has returned unexpectedly.

The majority of households have a mains water stopcock located under the sink, it could be a large brass valve, a brass gate valve or a silver lever action valve. Brass valves (clockwise for off) Lever action valves (lever perpendicular to the valve/pipe for off).

I would personally do this myself if I was living in an effected area, it will do no harm, the only risk is possible valve seizure but its best to know about that now since the water is off as its something that requires attention anyway (in case you have to turn water off during emergency).

When you get notice that the water is back on you can open the valve.

I know people are desperate for water in the effected areas. This unexpected water could be seen as a benefit but unless you've been given notice that the waters safe its up to you to decide whats best.

items

If you are stuck for water, get your bin bags out. You can literally tuck them under any rainwater opening and gutter down pipe etc. Not to sure about drinking it but when it's raining it will save the trip for collecting toilet cistern water etc. Try and find a bag without any holes.

TanG411

items wrote: »

If you are stuck for water, get your bin bags out. You can literally tuck them under any rainwater opening and gutter down pipe etc. Not to sure about drinking it but when it's raining it will save the trip for collecting toilet cistern water etc. Try and find a bag without any holes.

We used the wheelie bin for this. Then transferred the water from that into a basin which we could leave next to the toilet.

irobmw

Someone told me I should open the tap outside (ie hose tap connected to mains)a tiny bit in case the water comes back on to release any air in they system in case of pressure build up.

Good idea/Bad idea?

PS: thanks for all the insight tips so far!

items

irobmw wrote: »

Someone told me I should open the tap outside (ie hose tap connected to mains)a tiny bit in case the water comes back on to release any air in they system in case of pressure build up.

Good idea/Bad idea?

PS: thanks for all the insight tips so far!

How to prepare for the return of mains water supply

No Bother.

You could do that to rid any air and dirt partials from entering the system, expect all sorts to come out of the main line when its been emptied. I doubt you will be there ready and waiting the moment water returns even tho you might have a tap open, be prepared for some blockages, first place to check would be your attic tank. If the flow is poor and slow to fill the tank it could be due to small stones etc in the ballcock. You might have to take it apart to remove them or call a plumber.

Another tip, expect air locks in your system, both hot and cold storage. I might write up a separate bit of info later to give advice on how to remove them.

irobmw

items wrote: »

No Bother.

You could do that to rid any air and dirt partials from entering the system, expect all sorts to come out of the main line when its been emptied. I doubt you will be there ready and waiting the moment water returns even tho you might have a tap open, be prepared for some blockages, first place to check would be your attic tank. If the flow is poor and slow to fill the tank it could be due to small stones etc in the ballcock. You might have to take it apart to remove them or call a plumber.

Another tip, expect air locks in your system, both hot and cold storage. I might write up a separate bit of info later to give advice on how to remove them.

My attic tanks and the copper tank still full so unless the levels dropped a bit hopefully can keep dirt etc out of those and avoid later problems.

The council should really put a 'what to do when your water's back' article on the city website at some stage? Its obvious people would benefit from some expert info!

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irobmw wrote: »

My attic tanks and the copper tank still full so unless the levels dropped a bit hopefully can keep dirt etc out of those and avoid later problems.

The council should really put a 'what to do when your water's back' article on the city website at some stage? Its obvious people would benefit from some expert info!

How to prevent possible air locks once water main supply returns

Glad to hear the tanks are full, try to keep the water level just above the tank outlet that way you wont get air locks later. Having the tanks full will make no difference to the ballcock etc it may still become blocked/limited when mains water comes back on.

I have contacted the Cork Co Councilor posting on boards.ie seeing if I can help out (free of charge) on the ground as it will be needed, will see how it goes. I am not sure if they will give advice on "what to do when the waters back" as it can get complicated.

irobmw

I'll try to pass on any tips as much as I can around the place.

Is there anything that can be done to prevent blockages in the ballcock btw?

items

irobmw wrote: »

I'll try to pass on any tips as much as I can around the place.

Is there anything that can be done to prevent blockages in the ballcock btw?

How to prevent possible blockages brought on by returned previously dormant water main supply

Here's what I would do, lets say Co Council gave me a notice water was going off, I would turn off my own supply at the house. When the Co Council gives me notice the water is coming back on I would still leave my supply closed. Before I turn it back on, I would leave it a while, a few hours, I would check next doors supply before mine (sneaky I know). If you give it a bit of time before you turn it back on, that time might seem minimal compared to the time fixing all the problems etc if you rushed into it.

For everyday use its hard enough to prevent them, you could place a filter/strainer before the ballcock if blockages happen regularly.

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Taken from Cllr Laura Mc Gonigle's website.

We have just received a briefing from the officials in City regarding the water supply shortage in the City. The Lee water works pumping valves have burst i.e. the valve that prevents contaminated water entering the water supply have burst and our supply is now contaminated. If you have water in your taps, this water is completely safe to drink. This water however, is coming from the reservoir and will eventually run out.

Information on water supply contamination (the possibility of contamination)

If you have water coming out of your taps you would want to be extremely careful and know exactly where the supply is coming from.

Seems like some areas are supplied from a local reservoir and that water is about to run out, even though its stated the water is completely safe I don't know how they (Co Council) can be certain of it. Unless they have tested the supplies?

When we have flooding its possible the sewer systems back up and come out into the environment and mix with the flood waters, we've got leaking underground water mains all over Ireland so its not impossible for the flooded water mixed with the sewage to seep back underground and make it's way into the leaking water mains. Given the excessive flooding and the possible problems with the sewers I feel its worth mentioning, the chances are unlikely but still, always safety first.

If in doubt boil the water first.

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Ensure safe drinking water after a flood. (Private water well)

If your well has been flooded, you need to disinfect it to protect your family's health. Floodwaters carry bacteria, viruses, and parasites, as well as chemicals. Diseases such as dysentery, hepatitis and giardiasis can be transmitted through private wells that have been contaminated by floodwaters. Chemicals such as pesticides, solvents and petroleum-based products also pose health risks.

Sediment that enters your well during flooding can cause problems for the pump and plumbing systems. Bacteria that cause a rotten egg smell and stain plumbing fixtures may also be introduced during flooding.

You can read more here http://www.extension.org/pages/Ensure_Safe_Drinking_Water_After_a_Flood

The above information may not relate to Cork City but if you know of anyone in the other flooded areas (family) it would be good to pass on the information especially if those people you know are using a private water well in a flooded area.

Spindle

We have got a water supply back, the council said it cant be guaranteed, and that it is low pressure.

Would it be safe to use an Electric Shower, with the low pressure? Also what would happen if the supply ran out when using the shower? Would you damage the shower?

Outkast_IRE

Spindle wrote: »

We have got a water supply back, the council said it cant be guaranteed, and that it is low pressure.

Would it be safe to use an Electric Shower, with the low pressure? Also what would happen if the supply ran out when using the shower? Would you damage the shower?

Is it a mains fed electric or fed from the tank ?
If its mains fed then i would only use it if you are sure the supply is consistent and is at a good pressure , pressure can be checked by turning on kitchen sink cold and seeing if its weak or strong . If the supply were to go during a shower there may be a risk of burning or the shower damaging itself by running dry.(not worth it unless your sure)

If its tank fed electric check if your tank in attic is full , then have a very quick shower .

Spindle

Thanks Outkast_IRE, it is mains fed, so wont go near the shower for now, as the pressure is not great and also the supply is coming and going At least the tank is filling so we can flush the toilet, who know there was so much joy in flushing a toilet

Outkast_IRE

Spindle wrote: »

Thanks Outkast_IRE, it is mains fed, so wont go near the shower for now, as the pressure is not great and also the supply is coming and going At least the tank is filling so we can flush the toilet, who know there was so much joy in flushing a toilet

If your tank is filling and your desperate enough buy one of those shower heads with the joint hose you slip over hot and cold taps , if your tank in attic is full you can safely heat hot water if there is water coming out the hot tap.
Just be sure if heating with immersion to turn it off afterwards .
either that or go for a swim and shower there afterwards.

Should also mention with the inconsistent water supply debris may be loosened in the supply pipes which could make their way to the shower if you used it , safer to find a alternative for now.

items

Spindle wrote: »

We have got a water supply back, the council said it cant be guaranteed, and that it is low pressure.

Would it be safe to use an Electric Shower, with the low pressure? Also what would happen if the supply ran out when using the shower? Would you damage the shower?

Electric shower (low pressure)

I see Outkast has looked after you, may as well throw in my two cents.

Most modern electric showers will turn them selves off if they sense the water pressure is to low, you might see a red indication light on the shower unit. There is a wide range of different electric showers which have a wide range of different water supplies. Without being there the best advice I can give is not to rush into having a shower as soon as the water comes back on, give a little time for your attic tanks to fill up first and before having a shower, run off the cold water (bathroom) to try and move any debris away from the shower.

Enjoy your shower .

Just noticed your shower may be a mains fed shower, defo take your time and try to draw out some of the mains water before having a shower, the shower filter may become blocked/restricted etc, run out the mains at the kitchen sink until it runs clean, then have your shower, watch out for the red indication light for low pressure (if it has one). If the pressure is too low it might not work. Another tip, if the shower is working under low pressure, don't go mad with the heat, turn it just up enough to make the water warm, this will save the immersion/motor etc from damage due to low incoming pressure.

cupple

I live on the boreenmanna road and my cold water tap has come back on since 11 this am (pressuse is good) .. Only my cold taps are working downstairs and the toilet cistern downstairs is refilling too... No Hot taps are working downstairs or any other taps or cisterns upstairs. Does anyone else have this problem? Could it be an airlock?? Any answer appreicated ..

Outkast_IRE

cupple wrote: »

I live on the boreenmanna road and my cold water tap has come back on since 11 this am (pressuse is good) .. Only my cold taps are working downstairs and the toilet cistern downstairs is refilling too... No Hot taps are working downstairs or any other taps or cisterns upstairs. Does anyone else have this problem? Could it be an airlock?? Any answer appreicated ..

Sounds like a usual air lock easiest place to start is the place where cold taps are working and hot isnt .
If there is no hot coming out kitchen sink then try this a few times ( it could take a few times if its a airlock.

I presume its a mono kitchen sink tap like usual so
Open hot side of tap fully and leave open .
place you hand firmly over the spout so it blocks it and put pressure to block it .
Open cold side as much as you can whilst blocking spout firmly with palm or thumb or whatever you find best . Leave cold run for 30 seconds to a min then take hand off spout close cold side and see if the hot will stay running it may take a few goes .

For bathrooms etc see if that gets either hot or cold goin in them and repeat if there are monotaps if they are seperate hot and cold taps get a short bit of hose and force it over one spout to the other.
Any questions just ask

items

I have just seen a question coming in, water back on to some extent, cold water for toilets etc but no water coming out the hot taps. If you have no water coming out the hot taps in this case it could be a possible air lock, here are some ways to remove air locks (hot water).

Hot water air locks for households with a hot water cylinder.
The last two notes mentioned can also be used to remedy cold water air locks (cold water storage pipe requires finding)

Kitchen sink remedy.
First thing I would do is look at the kitchen tap, if its a mono tap (two taps one spout) its possible to use the mains water to drive the air out of the hot water system. With both taps off, place your hand over the spout blocking it completely. Open the hot tap then open the mains (cold) tap. What happens here is the pressure of the mains water is enough to travel back up the hot water side and force any air out via the hot water cylinder vent. This will only work with a vented hot water system, mono tap at kitchen sink and enough water pressure to drive it out. It's hard to give a time on how long you may need to spend driving the mains back up the hot side, its depends on the size of the plumbing system and the amount of water in it, keep trying until you find a constant flow of water coming out the hot side. Make sure you close all hot taps before attempting this.

Hot press/hot water cylinder remedy .
If you have none of the above it is still possible to remove hot water air locks. Go to your hot press, locate the valve that is filling the cylinder (on the pipe which connects to the lowest point to the cylinder) with a bucket or bowel etc and a spanner (1" or 3/4"). Turn off your cylinder supply valve wheel head (clockwise) or lever (perpendicular to pipe) With the bucket close by disconnect the bottom side of the valve (make sure it is off) when its disconnected open the valve and let the water drain into the bucket until you have a full flow of water, give it a little time as sometimes you might see water then air then water etc, give it some time. Once you are happy with a full flow reconnect everything, check for leaks and away you go.

Attic remedy.
If you cant find a valve at the cylinder you might have to go up into the attic and find the pipe that fills the cylinder, their should be only three 1" or 3/4" pipes (modern house) in the attic (two connecting to the bottom of the attic tank 1" or 3/4") one of those is for filling the hot water cylinder, its up to you to find it. At the furthest point away from the attic tank try to find a fitting (on the pipe feeding the cylinder) that you can undo in the same form as above, allow the water to have a good flow into a bucket before reconnecting and again check for leaks after you are done. Possible risk to ceiling damage if you are not extremely careful with this one.

A Plumbers warning.
This stuff is really for Plumbers, I wouldn't normally give out this kind of information but due to the situation I feel its best. If you have any doubts with attempting any of this, don't do it, seek experienced help. I have to give another warning also, you may find you have some problems with seized valves when attempting the above, its good to know now as its something that will need to be fixed.

items

cupple wrote: »

I live on the boreenmanna road and my cold water tap has come back on since 11 this am (pressuse is good) .. Only my cold taps are working downstairs and the toilet cistern downstairs is refilling too... No Hot taps are working downstairs or any other taps or cisterns upstairs. Does anyone else have this problem? Could it be an airlock?? Any answer appreicated ..

I've given you info on how to remove air locks on the hot side, I didn't realize your upstairs cold is having problems, again this could be air locks, have a look at the last two in the notes above you can do that for cold also, you'll have to find the cold valve in the hot press (running straight from hot press ceiling to floor with minimal fittings other than a valve) or find the cold supply pipe in the attic and carry on as mentioned in the above post.

cupple

items wrote: »

I have just seen a question coming in, water back on to some extent, cold water for toilets etc but no water coming out the hot taps. If you have no water coming out the hot taps in this case it could be a possible air lock, here are some ways to remove air locks (hot water).

Hot water air locks for households with a hot water cylinder.
The last two notes mentioned can also be used to remedy cold water air locks (cold water storage pipe requires finding)

Kitchen sink remedy.
First thing I would do is look at the kitchen tap, if its a mono tap (two taps one spout) its possible to use the mains water to drive the air out of the hot water system. With both taps off, place your hand over the spout blocking it completely. Open the hot tap then open the mains (cold) tap. What happens here is the pressure of the mains water is enough to travel back up the hot water side and force any air out via the hot water cylinder vent. This will only work with a vented hot water system, mono tap at kitchen sink and enough water pressure to drive it out. It's hard to give a time on how long you may need to spend driving the mains back up the hot side, its depends on the size of the plumbing system and the amount of water in it, keep trying until you find a constant flow of water coming out the hot side. Make sure you close all hot taps before attempting this.

Hot press/hot water cylinder remedy .
If you have none of the above it is still possible to remove hot water air locks. Go to your hot press, locate the valve that is filling the cylinder (on the pipe which connects to the lowest point to the cylinder) with a bucket or bowel etc and a spanner (1" or 3/4"). Turn off your cylinder supply valve wheel head (clockwise) or lever (perpendicular to pipe) With the bucket close by disconnect the bottom side of the valve (make sure it is off) when its disconnected open the valve and let the water drain into the bucket until you have a full flow of water, give it a little time as sometimes you might see water then air then water etc, give it some time. Once you are happy with a full flow reconnect everything, check for leaks and away you go.

Attic remedy.
If you cant find a valve at the cylinder you might have to go up into the attic and find the pipe that fills the cylinder, their should be only three 1" or 3/4" pipes (modern house) in the attic (two connecting to the bottom of the attic tank 1" or 3/4") one of those is for filling the hot water cylinder, its up to you to find it. At the furthest point away from the attic tank try to find a fitting (on the pipe feeding the cylinder) that you can undo in the same form as above, allow the water to have a good flow into a bucket before reconnecting and again check for leaks after you are done. Possible risk to ceiling damage if you are not extremely careful with this one.

A Plumbers warning.
This stuff is really for Plumbers, I wouldn't normally give out this kind of information but due to the situation I feel its best. If you have any doubts with attempting any of this, don't do it, seek experienced help. I have to give another warning also, you may find you have some problems with seized valves when attempting the above, its good to know now as its something that will need to be fixed.

thanks so much for advice . we checked the valve on cylinder and opened fully with spanner and nothing came out of cylider it appears to be empty, which leaves me to believe that their is no water in tank in attic either .. off to check this next .

Since house is 3 story, i think their might not be enough pressure to fill up tankin attic

Off to get ladder now to climb up to attic..

thanks so much for advice

items

cupple wrote: »

thanks so much for advice . we checked the valve on cylinder and opened fully with spanner and nothing came out of cylider it appears to be empty, which leaves me to believe that their is no water in tank in attic either .. off to check this next .

Since house is 3 story, i think their might not be enough pressure to fill up tankin attic

Off to get ladder now to climb up to attic..

thanks so much for advice

Hot water cylinder information

There is more than enough info above so you might have to come back and go over it. Remember the water comes out the top of the cylinder so its full, you might have no supply going to it. After a while when tanks fill up it might come naturally, if not you may have to do some of the above, on both hot and cold water storage.

Best of luck.

rebel.ranter

I have one for items if you can help.
I have a SIME closed system gas boiler. It keeps losing pressure, I have to top it up every day. I am not sure it is the fault of the pressure relief valve, I can see that once the pressure gauge hits 3 bar water comes out the overflow pipe out the back of house until it settles down to a lower pressure. Once the heat goes off & left off for a while the pressure goes to zero. I thought it might be the pressure relief valve until I saw it only kicking in a 3 bar, it coud still be the cause but not sure.
Any ideas?

Outkast_IRE

rebel.ranter wrote: »

I have one for items if you can help.
I have a SIME closed system gas boiler. It keeps losing pressure, I have to top it up every day. I am not sure it is the fault of the pressure relief valve, I can see that once the pressure gauge hits 3 bar water comes out the overflow pipe out the back of house until it settles down to a lower pressure. Once the heat goes off & left off for a while the pressure goes to zero. I thought it might be the pressure relief valve until I saw it only kicking in a 3 bar, it coud still be the cause but not sure.
Any ideas?

Thats a safety valve that goes off at 3 bar , its only meant to go off if for some reason boiler keeps heating water to dangerous extent and real pressure sets its off.
You should never ever ever have your system up to 3 bar , when you fill 1 - 1.5 is more than enough depending on boiler type check manufactuers book or website for a defo number .
You may of caused a number of issue .
Those safety valves once they go off once or twice they are usually pretty bad at keeping in even normal pressures afterward so that may need replacing .

You would lose pressure pretty quickly every time if one of these was to leak .
The pressure guage will fluctuate up when heating goes on and down when the system cools down .

Check the safety valve and see is it leaking at normal pressures

items

rebel.ranter wrote: »

I have one for items if you can help.
I have a SIME closed system gas boiler. It keeps losing pressure, I have to top it up every day. I am not sure it is the fault of the pressure relief valve, I can see that once the pressure gauge hits 3 bar water comes out the overflow pipe out the back of house until it settles down to a lower pressure. Once the heat goes off & left off for a while the pressure goes to zero. I thought it might be the pressure relief valve until I saw it only kicking in a 3 bar, it coud still be the cause but not sure.
Any ideas?

Gas Boiler problem (High pressure leading to safety valve blow out)

Sorry to hear, thats a strange one.

Most boilers, for safety, release water if the pressure reaches above 3 to 3.5 bar, once the pressure lowers it should stop releasing water. But on yours the boiler returns to some form after lowering pressure from 3 to 3.5 bar. After a while the pressure drops completely, possibly below the required (1 bar ) when it does the boiler wont come on so you have to top it up again?

If this is the case maybe you do have a faulty safety valve and its not safe to use your boiler without a safety valve working correctly, you might have to call in an expert. Their should never be a case where your boiler is topped up above the maximum 3 to 3.5 bar so first thing for you to do is find out why its filling to that pressure.

If its filling from the mains by an APRV (automatic pressure release/restrict valve) the high pressure problem could be due to the mains water madness that happening down there. If not how is it being filled? If you are filling it manually don't let it fill to high pressure, 1.5 to 2 bar is more than enough.

Its hard to tell from here, fill it back up and try to find out where you are losing the water, keep watch at the safety outlet pipe to see if it continue to release water.

Your going to have to try and find out where the water is being lost as best you can.

Defo needs attention from a Board Gas agent and remember the more time a heating system spends taking in fresh water the less time its going to last, it will corrode itself from the inside (boiler heat exchanger normally first)

Hope the info helps in some way.

items

Back in a few hours.

rebel.ranter

Outkast_IRE wrote: »

You should never ever ever have your system up to 3 bar , when you fill 1 - 1.5 is more than enough

Hey, thanks for the response, I normally only top it up as far as 1 bar, there is a little blue section on the gauge showing where is safe.
From what you say the boiler may be heating up too much, there is a dial on the front of the boiler with what looks like a radiator on it, I might chance turning that down.
I am happy enough that the water is only coming out of the relief outlet pipe outside the house. I had planned on calling out someone but just wanted to see if there was something simple wrong. I also ordered a PRV online on Saturday for my type of boiler, I was going to fit this myself, I am handy enough at DIY. I reckoned that this would be faulty as a result of all the pressure relieving it has had to do in recent days.
rgds,
rr

Outkast_IRE

rebel.ranter wrote: »

Hey, thanks for the response, I normally only top it up as far as 1 bar, there is a little blue section on the gauge showing where is safe.
From what you say the boiler may be heating up too much, there is a dial on the front of the boiler with what looks like a radiator on it, I might chance turning that down.
I am happy enough that the water is only coming out of the relief outlet pipe outside the house. I had planned on calling out someone but just wanted to see if there was something simple wrong. I also ordered a PRV online on Saturday for my type of boiler, I was going to fit this myself, I am handy enough at DIY. I reckoned that this would be faulty as a result of all the pressure relieving it has had to do in recent days.
rgds,
rr

Im not quite sure on the regulations regarding the safety valves on gas boilers if its illegal or not for you to work on one . ITEMS may be able to clarify it for you im not familar with the regs .
Sure see what effect the new valve has anyway.

As far as i know the knob with the radiator pic over it shouldnt be able to cause the boiler to blow the safety

Vivara

We have had water back for a day now, yet our electric shower won't produce water, just makes a loud electrical noise as if we're damaging something.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Outkast_IRE

what type of electric shower is it , Fed from mains or fed from tank in attic?

Vivara

Outkast_IRE wrote: »

what type of electric shower is it , Fed from mains or fed from tank in attic?

I'm not sure, but presumably the tank in the attic. I mean we have hot water from toilet taps full flow, no pressure problems.

Thanks.

Outkast_IRE

at any stage did you try and shower and it ran out half way through? did it start and then run dry if so it might be airlocked .
The pressure in a mains fed shower is usually enough to push out air but in a tank fed its usually not .
If you think its airlocked and your good at diy then you could prob google the make and model and problem and you should find info on it .
What make and model is it others here might be knowledgeable.

items

rebel.ranter wrote: »

Hey, thanks for the response, I normally only top it up as far as 1 bar, there is a little blue section on the gauge showing where is safe.
From what you say the boiler may be heating up too much, there is a dial on the front of the boiler with what looks like a radiator on it, I might chance turning that down.
I am happy enough that the water is only coming out of the relief outlet pipe outside the house. I had planned on calling out someone but just wanted to see if there was something simple wrong. I also ordered a PRV online on Saturday for my type of boiler, I was going to fit this myself, I am handy enough at DIY. I reckoned that this would be faulty as a result of all the pressure relieving it has had to do in recent days.
rgds,
rr

Gas Boiler problem (circulation)

If your boiler is heating up to much, creating high pressure, you have a problem with circulation. No or poor circulation can be caused by many things, it would be to hard to describe over this. The first place I would look is at the heating system circulation pump, its possible that its faulty, next would be air locks again its to hard for me to describe.

The dial you mention sounds like the temperature dial/thermostat, even at full on, your boiler should not over heat but you can try turning it down. When you say PRV? that is used for filling the heating, you may have a faulty SRV. You can not replace the SRV, you will not be covered by Bord Gas. Only a Qualified Register Board Gas Engineer can attend to Gas boiler repairs.

Boilers are advanced and clever enough to know how to turn themselves off, so if its not working, you know your self their is a problem.

Turn off the boiler and pop out the fuse at the fused boiler spur (resets boiler) Top up the heating over a bar, turn back on boiler, run the boiler at the coldest possible setting and see how it goes, if its running for a while at cold slowly bring the temp up, if its air locked this could help bring it on. If the boiler still gives trouble even at coldest setting, maybe best to call Bord Gas. Safety first.

Best I can do from here I am afraid.

items

Vivara wrote: »

We have had water back for a day now, yet our electric shower won't produce water, just makes a loud electrical noise as if we're damaging something.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Electric shower (air lock or blockage)

Sounds like you got no water running through the motor, its not a good idea to run a shower without water. Might have some airlock or even debris in the filter.

To help bring the water on, first let your attic tank fill up a while before using shower (if tank supplied shower) or you might have to wait a while for pressure to build up (water mains fed shower).

Turn the shower temperature to full cold before turning it on, let it run a while, you have less chance of damaging the shower if its at full cold, you might hear all kinds of sounds. Don't turn the heat up until you are happy you have a good constant flow of cold water.

If the above doesn't work and you still have problems even at cold, let me know and I'll see if I can help, best to know how its running at full cold first.

Vivara

items wrote: »

Sounds like you got no water running through the motor, its not a good idea to run a shower without water. Might have some airlock or even debris in the filter.

To help bring the water on, first let your attic tank fill up a while before using shower (if tank supplied shower) or you might have to wait a while for pressure to build up (water mains fed shower).

Turn the shower temperature to full cold before turning it on, let it run a while, you have less chance of damaging the shower if its at full cold, you might hear all kinds of sounds. Don't turn the heat up until you are happy you have a good constant flow of cold water.

If the above doesn't work and you still have problems even at cold, let me know and I'll see if I can help, best to know how its running at full cold first.

Thanks a million, really!

How long is 'let it run'? lol
I let it run for about one minute and thirty seconds on full cold and low flow (it has three options; low, medium and high) and nothing but drips came out. The sound is really bad and it really sounds like we're damaging something. Like loud motor turning.

If it helps it's an electric Mira Elite ST.

Thanks again for your help!

Vivara.

items

Vivara wrote: »

Thanks a million, really!

How long is 'let it run'? lol
I let it run for about one minute and thirty seconds on full cold and low flow (it has three options; low, medium and high) and nothing but drips came out. The sound is really bad and it really sounds like we're damaging something. Like loud motor turning.

If it helps it's an electric Mira Elite ST.

Thanks again for your help!

Vivara.

No bother.

How to remove airlocks or blockages in electric shower

Full cold is best (low). Disconnect the shower hose and let it flow out the bottom of the shower unit, try it again, I've ran them longer than a min before with no damage (don't hold me responsible if you do damage it). If it's still refusing to come on, you could have an airlock or some dirt in the shower filter. To solve these you are going to have to open the casing, if you still have the manual it should list how to remove airlocks (bleed water line) also how to remove dirt. I am not sure you are able to attempt this? Also electricity and water don't mix well so its important to know what you are doing, electric showers are dangerous in the wrong hands.

If you don't have the manual and you or someone in the house has a few tools, spanners etc come back to me and I'll list out some more info.

MunsterCycling

items wrote: »

Sorry to hear, thats a strange one.

Most boilers, for safety, release water if the pressure reaches above 3 to 3.5 bar, once the pressure lowers it should stop releasing water. But on yours the boiler returns to some form after lowering pressure from 3 to 3.5 bar. After a while the pressure drops completely, possibly below the required (1 bar ) when it does the boiler wont come on so you have to top it up again?

> snip

Would your system have an expansion vessel near to the boiler, our system had exactly the same symptoms and it was a faulty expansion vessel that was causing it in the end (Manual fill system with 21 rads and three zones)

items

MunsterCycling wrote: »

Would your system have an expansion vessel near to the boiler, our system had exactly the same symptoms and it was a faulty expansion vessel that was causing it in the end (Manual fill system with 21 rads and three zones)

Your right, it could be the expansion vessel (burst diaphragm from high pressure) well done for noticing. When I look at these questions I am thinking about how flooding causes system down time for a few days, not the overall possibility's of boiler failure.

I prefer not to go into to many details. Its best for me to just give quick tips that pretty much anyone can take on, when it comes into the more serious stuff I really don't want to be giving advice as when it gets serious, time to call the qualified people. Top marks all the same.

Feel free to give any advice, the more the merrier, fair play to Outkast as well.

Outkast_IRE

MunsterCycling wrote: »

Would your system have an expansion vessel near to the boiler, our system had exactly the same symptoms and it was a faulty expansion vessel that was causing it in the end (Manual fill system with 21 rads and three zones)

ya was just comin on to say expansion vessel . some good advice being handed out here

Flesh Gorden

One problem I'm having is that the stop cock supplying water downstairs from the mains is completely seized -
to the point where it feels it could snap in my hand

Same problem with the gate valve that supplies the hot water cylinder

Haven't ventured into the attic to find the one for the cold water tank but I'd expect the same


Any quick fix? or is it a case of getting new ones while the supply is off?

cornbb

Is it ok to leave an electric shower running to see whether water will come out? Our water has come back, there's pressure from the bathroom sink but nothing from the shower yet. I'm thinking there's air in there that needs to be released but I don't want to damage the shower...

Outkast_IRE

Flesh Gorden wrote: »

One problem I'm having is that the stop cock supplying water downstairs from the mains is completely seized -
to the point where it feels it could snap in my hand

Same problem with the gate valve that supplies the hot water cylinder

Haven't ventured into the attic to find the one for the cold water tank but I'd expect the same


Any quick fix? or is it a case of getting new ones while the supply is off?

Well they are prone to seizing so all i can suggest is trying to open the gate valve first while the stop cock is closed and i presume tank is drained in attic. If it snap it snaps nothin you can do about it now consider replacing it with a higher quality lever handle type.

As for stop cock just try your hardest to open it if it snaps then you will have to get your mains turned off outside and then replace stop cock

Outkast_IRE

cornbb wrote: »

Is it ok to leave an electric shower running to see whether water will come out? Our water has come back, there's pressure from the bathroom sink but nothing from the shower yet. I'm thinking there's air in there that needs to be released but I don't want to damage the shower...

there is a big answer to this further back in the thread read it its good , but short answer with water on and off so much there is possibe debris etc but you can try turning it on for short spurts to see if it gets it going. Only 10 -20 seconds at a time

items

Flesh Gorden wrote: »

One problem I'm having is that the stop cock supplying water downstairs from the mains is completely seized -
to the point where it feels it could snap in my hand

Same problem with the gate valve that supplies the hot water cylinder

Haven't ventured into the attic to find the one for the cold water tank but I'd expect the same


Any quick fix? or is it a case of getting new ones while the supply is off?

Valve problems (Valve information)

My advice is no quick fix's for valves, they either work properly or they don't and when they don't, its time for them to go!

If you are seriously stuck, you could undo them from the pipe work and give them a good dose of WD40. Most gate valves and stopcocks consist of threads and slots, when they are left dormant the threads and slots become stiff even blocked up with hard water. Some times when seized you can turn a wheel head valve or a stopcock all day and night either way and it wont turn on or off, the threads just slip.

Always good to have valves working 100%, in case of emergency and maintenance.

Here's a tip for anyone with valves working OK. (Gate valves) Never turn a gate valve fully on or fully off, just back it off a slight bit. If you are leaving it on, open it fully then close it a small amount. If you are leaving it closed, close it fully and open it a slight bit (it will still remain closed).

Tip for Stopcocks. You should adjust the pressure to suit your needs, open the kitchen sink tap and open the stopcock to suit a water pressure you like and then check your attic tank to adjust to suit. If you open a stopcock fully, it will reduce the overall pressure on the shared mains water line.

Here's a tip for anyone replacing a gate valve, don't buy one! Buy a lever action valve, you will never have a problem with a lever action valve, ever!

Forgot to mention, if you adjust old gate valves or old stopcocks that have been lying dormant watch out for weeps. You might find a small weep at the valve spindle. After you are finished you better check and make sure its not weeping. If it is weeping then the valve gland which seals the water is broke and the valve is pretty much beyond repair.

cornbb

Thanks so much for the advice guys. I've just gotten the hot taps to work thanks to your advice. And I've just enjoyed a shower

items

cornbb wrote: »

Thanks so much for the advice guys. I've just gotten the hot taps to work thanks to your advice. And I've just enjoyed a shower

Congrats, your almost a plumber now.

Heckler

hi,

I have a triton t80si electric shower. Don't know if its mains fed or from a tank. My water went off for a couple of days. Its back on now but there is no hot water from the shower. The cold flow is fine. Usual pressure and so on. I've tried running it cold for a while and switching it to hot but to no avail.

Any suggestions ? Thanks in advance.

curlie-wurliexx

hi, i am on boreenmanna road and our water came back yesterday.
as far as i know we have a mains-fed combi boiler and water is flowing from both kitchen taps and upstairs bathroom sinks hot taps and both hot and cold in the bath. however our upstairs cold taps are not running and toilet cisterns are not filling up.
we tried turning on all the taps that aren't working and holding a cloth over a cold mains fed tap and letting it run (thinking it might be an air lock) but so far nothing.
himself went up into the attic and the tank up there is full of water.
any ideas for me please?

jArgHA

This is a fantastic thread fair play to you and outkast for all the tips provided.

Apologies if you have already answered this one:

My water supply never stopped but the pressure has dropped in the kitchen taps and shower. The shower was fine for the first few days (pressure was a bit low but the temperature regulated as expected). Then it started going from hot-cold-hot-cold, and now for the past few days it has just been icy cold all the time. Also when the shower is turned on, nothing happens for about 30 seconds before the water starts to come out at a lower pressure than normal.

I am unsure as to whether the shower is mains-fed or attic-fed, but I *think* it may be attic fed as after taking a shower I can hear the tank in the attic refilling.

Is there anything that can be done in this situation or must we just wait until normal water pressure returns at some point?