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New chain

  • 01-08-2009 12:37PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 682 ✭✭✭


    I just replaced my sram chain as the old one was worn. First thing I noticed when I put it on the bike was it was not hanging straight. When I say not straight more not flat, (i.e hold palm of hand out and tilt slightly as if your tipping water off). This is between the rear jockey wheels and front chain rings at the bottom.

    Because of this the chain is very grumbly in the lowest gears. After spending ages trying to adjust everything as I thought something needed tweaking, I thought I would try the old chain back on again. Result: perfect and hanging straight and no noise!

    Is it possible to have a faulty chain that is lop-sided? Has this happened to anyone else? Its a bit annoying as i have removed some links and am not sure CRC will take it back. I will send them an email anyway.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,299 ✭✭✭kenmc


    sounds like you might have as stiff link or something.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,060 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    A few suggestions.

    If the chain is the correct guage (width) I would suspect a stiff link which may free up with use and lube if needed. You can check suspect links for over tightness in lateral play.
    Does new chain have same number of links as old one.
    A 9 speed chain on a 10 speed drive train may give the symptoms you describe.
    Does the warp occur at the point of joining?
    If the link pin is not pushed home properly it may cause one side of the chain to be longer than the other. Likewise with powerlink.
    Might also be due to worn chain fitting worn sprockets better than new chain.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 682 ✭✭✭Signal_ rabbit


    A few suggestions.

    If the chain is the correct guage (width) I would suspect a stiff link which may free up with use and lube if needed. You can check suspect links for over tightness in lateral play.
    Does new chain have same number of links as old one.
    A 9 speed chain on a 10 speed drive train may give the symptoms you describe.
    Does the warp occur at the point of joining?
    If the link pin is not pushed home properly it may cause one side of the chain to be longer than the other. Likewise with powerlink.
    Might also be due to worn chain fitting worn sprockets better than new chain.

    Yeah the chain is the the same size, width and make as the old one.
    Its hard to determine where the warp starts but i don't think its a stiff link as i went through them all.

    Could it be too loose? as I can grip it between finger and thumb and roll it back straight but when I let go it flops to the same side again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,060 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    Its hard to determine where the warp starts but i don't think its a stiff link as i went through them all.

    Could it be too loose? as I can grip it between finger and thumb and roll it back straight but when I let go it flops to the same side again.

    Its unlikely to be too loose if you have the same number of links as the old one. You can check this by checking that the two derailer cogs are vertical or near vertical when big chain ring and smallest sprocket are engaged.
    If still loose maybe derailer spring is weak or sticking.
    Does it occur on both chain rings.?
    Otherwise Im out of suggestions.


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