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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 251 ✭✭P2C


    My CTH151 kolher courage has just died 15hp. Roughly 2005. Well battered and abused. The engine block was well cracked and the wife is sick of me nursing her every year. I have a 21 inch as back up. I have a sloping site but on different levels. Probably .75 of a acre. It’s bumpy enough from multiple cattle intrusions. Anyone got any recommendations. Cash is tight but would like to get a new one. Could put it on credit I suppose or maybe a bike 2 work friendly dealer if anyone knows any 😎 as it’s virtually impossible to buy a decent bike pm be helpful. Ideally a tow link on the back and a robust deck. My biggest fear is the deck as will get plenty of whacks. Thanks in advance. Edit I see a earlier recommendation for a  Stihl 5112 would that be the Best Buy?

    Post edited by P2C on


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,231 ✭✭✭SCOOP 64


    What spark plug would a need for 12.5hp Briggs and Stratton engine ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,344 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Probably a Champion: RC12YC but all you have to do is take the old one out and see what it says on it. Even if its not a champion plug (doesn't have to be) then you can look up whatever it says on it to find a list of what others can be used https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/RC12YC

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,536 ✭✭✭deezell


     "My CTH151 kolher courage has just died.......

    ......I see a earlier recommendation for a Stihl 5112 would that be the Best Buy,,"

    5112 z has very robust construction, frame, deck and linkages. Much better engineered than a lot of the popular brands, it represents real value in its class. Lower price point probably made possible with the use of the lower cost Loncin 23hp engine, but its still a very powerful and smooth V twin, regular oil and filter change will last a lifetime.

    fwiw, Toro are using the bigger Loncin engines in their American market machines, reviews are good, which from entrenched sceptical conservative users is saying something. Best review from a dealer stated that all repairs he's done over three years on the Loncin equipped machines has been deck related, not engine.



  • Registered Users Posts: 526 ✭✭✭coillsaille


    I still haven't purchased the Stihl 5112 Deezel but intend to in the next week or two. I have been looking at dealers in my general part of Connacht as I was thinking it would have to brought to them for service. But is this really necessary or would any servicing requirements be something I could take on myself?

    Not a mechanic by any means but would consider myself handy enough and have serviced my chainsaw and outboard motor in the past. If transport for service isn't a factor I need to consider then it would allow more shopping around for a good deal.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,536 ✭✭✭deezell


    You would need at least one service after a year in any competent shop in order to keep your year 2 warranty. Service after year one is oil, filters. Inspection of belts and blades, and general overview. If you buy from a distant dealer it might make sense to ask if its OK to use a local trusted dealer for the first service.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,344 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    There should be nothing that you need to send a mower into a repair shop to fix.

    Just depends on having the time, the space and the tools to do it yourself. Some belt changes can be awkward as can be sharpening/ changing blades but as a worse case scenario you can remove the deck to get better access to the blades.

    The only problems are when things get stuck/rusted in place. A dealer will be used to that and have the necessary tools to handle the likes of mower blades bolts that are worn and hard to remove.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 526 ✭✭✭coillsaille


    Yes I know what you mean. But believe me if I'm going to spend over €5k on a mower I would intend looking after it like a first born child and not let any part get to the stage where it would rusted and stuck in place.

    I take on board Deezel's point too about the 2 year warranty but with the sturdy construction of the 5112 there's probably a very slim chance of something going wrong in the first 2 years one would think?

    If the service after year 1 is something I can do myself then can't help wondering if it's worth the hassle of transporting it to a dealer just to guarantee I get the second year of warranty, when one hopes I would never need it anyway.

    Another thing I meant to ask. When I get the 5112 should I paint the deck with Hammerite or similar rust proofing before use. Or is the factory finish on this mower good enough as it is?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,344 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Its the cleaning off after use and quality of storage that make the biggest difference to how the deck will last or rather not rust.

    I've a new Honda last year after replacing the deck on the old one and getting another 5 years out of it over, 15 in total the one thing I have learnt is not to make the mistake of chipping your own paint off by scraping the muck off the underside of the deck with anything metal - old screwdriver would be an example.

    I now scrape the bottom off with a shaped piece of wood (the thin end of a wedge) and the deck on the new machine is holding up much better.

    I also treated myself to this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0058XQ5TE (only paid £120) which makes cleaning much easier so it gets a clean after every use.

    Then as I said quality of storage if you have somewhere dry with no condensation then your deck and the rest of your machine will last much longer than in a damp shed.

    Painting is still a good idea provided you have it good and clean.

    I think the two year warranty is only to get the dealers more money from customer servicing.

    Edit> One other thing, I find an airline handy for blowing out grass and debris from around the engine, in the past when I worked cutting grass commercially we used to clean off machines after every use with a leaf blower.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,536 ✭✭✭deezell


    In mho you should paint any deck, especially if you get the chance to do it from new. Alloy decks' paint will flake too, probably easier if it hadn't special primer, and though these don't rust, they do get a rough layer of alum oxide which grass loves to stick to. Red oxide or whatever colour rust paint you get is not brittle when dry, so it provides a very tough wear surface.

    Old army saying, if it moves, salute it it, if it doesn't, paint it.



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  • Posts: 0 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Can anyone give me any advice on this:

    Briggs & Stratton engine, steel deck and free delivery for €219.95,seems a good deal?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,536 ✭✭✭deezell


    16" cut perfect for a small garden. Don't mow stones, keep in a shed, clean off the sticking grass, and at the end of the season run the engine until out of petrol, check oil level, clean air filter and a drop of wd40 into the cables, it will last you at least ten years. €22 per year.



  • Registered Users Posts: 713 ✭✭✭Darando


    Time to replace a very old push mower (46cm Qualcast B&S) not sure if any decent bargains out there?


    Seen this and has a few options for collect, side discharge and mulch. Not sure brand on these mowers make much difference at that price point?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,328 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Getting more like car servicing now, I bought a new Honda 2317 last year, and it has to got all the latest gimmickry. Mobile phone charger, hour meter on the dash etc. So now it gives you a service warning when the service is due. And the booklet tells you what exactly needs doing for each service. Its not complicated, if you are anyway handy with things mechanical. I've already carried out the first two services on mine, no problem.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3 snozzler


    Anyone used this machine Cub Cadet XZ2 117i Zero Turn Mower 22hp V-Twin 46"?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3 snozzler





  • Registered Users Posts: 6,536 ✭✭✭deezell


    The front wheel arrangement is interesting, it has a steering wheel, it looks like the front wheels are actually steered rather than just castor wheels, and it's 'zero' turned by rotating around the centre of one fixed wheel, rather than both rear wheels contra rotating and placing the centre of the turning circle between the wheels. This is liable to chew up lawns, especially soft ground if you go too hard on the turns. Steered front wheels is more like a conventional tractor mower, and would probably leave more visible trample marks than a true zero turn, ahead of the deck. This video on coarse meadow is impressive though.




  • Registered Users Posts: 3 snozzler



    Post edited by snozzler on


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,414 ✭✭✭JoeA3


    I asked for advice on a potential purchase of this machine (Honda HRN-536VYE) a few pages back here and I finally got round to getting one a few days ago. Really happy with it so far. It replaced a ~20 year old Castlegarden who's engine was still going strong (also a Honda!) but the deck was really disintegrating.

    I'd never used a mulching-mode on a mower before so I tried that mode on the whole garden and was impressed. Granted the grass wasn't too long or thick (it could do with a fertiliser) but it made the job so much quicker not having to stop and empty the box every 10 minutes. I was also surprised at how fast the self-drive is, at full pelt it is a very brisk walk. Whereas my old machine was more of a stroll. The "smart control" on the handle is simple and comfortable to use. Another neat feature is that you can leave the machine running without the blades spinning. You actually need to hold the lever on the handle to keep the blades going. Release that and the blades stop. Handy.




  • Registered Users Posts: 36 Trigger85


    What's the consensus for a good leaf blower. I've a tarmac drive with a lot of trees including pine trees at the end so I need a leaf blower that will do pine needles



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,344 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    There's no real comparison between a good (brand name) backpack leaf blower and a handheld or one of the made up name chinese or Lidl type ones.

    Any of the Stihl or Husqvarna backpacks would be what I'd go for, but that won't be cheap.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 36 Trigger85


    Cheers yeah I'll avoid Lidl. Will look into those two



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,344 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    I'd give you some examples but I really don't like the way this site messes with the URL's.

    If you can make a list and compare the force of the air pressure (measured in Newtons 10-12 for the handhelds and 40N for the bigger backpacks), you can also check air speed and air volume moved per minute but they are what combine to give the force of the air in Newtons. You won't get one site that gives all the details because that would make it too easy but you can piece them together over several different sites.

    I'd be looking for one that can provide over 30N of pressure. The smaller cheaper backpacks are still under 20N and in my experience a bit of a let down. Problem is that puts you in the €500+ price bracket. Personally I'd go for something similar to the Sthil BR600, irishmowers have it on offer for €520.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 36 Trigger85


    Thank you!



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,231 ✭✭✭SCOOP 64


    What is the purpose of the big hole at the side of this deck.




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,344 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Probably takes a plastic shoe that then goes into a tube which leads to a grass box. Probably also had an option for a defector that directed the grass out to the side while preventing you touching the blades.

    Min would be like this


    With a bagger it would look something like this


    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,536 ✭✭✭deezell


    It's an accident waiting to happen. Just let your foot slip from the drive pedal and slip over the edge. ZZZZZZzzzzz! At least you'd be able to buy your next car free of VRT.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,231 ✭✭✭SCOOP 64


    Properly why its been for sale a while now.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,672 ✭✭✭s_carnage


    Looking at getting a new ride on and from reading through this thread had settled on the Stihl RT 5112 Z but then came across the Husqvarna TC 142T.


    The Husqvarna is on sale with in a nearby shop at €3499 and the Stihl is €4199. Is the Stihl worth the extra €700? I've a bit over .5 acre and no real option to dump the grass so would have to get a mulching kit with both mowers.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,536 ✭✭✭deezell


    I've come across some negative reviews on build and materials quality on this and 200 series husky. Many complaints about blade spindles. Google husqvarna tc142 and the image banner pops up with three ads for spindles, no images for shops selling the machine, which tells you which is the most popular sub search.


    It's discounted well, how many years warranty? I'd want two at least if I were buying. Maybe you should be looking a dedicated mulch/side discharge mower, they cost less also.



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