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Labour Saving and General Guntering

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,609 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    dharn wrote: »
    You cant beat a bit of length :D

    Its the width I'm told :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    Shes being diplomatic


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,975 ✭✭✭Connemara Farmer


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Made this this morning. Not pretty, but done the job. Good and long, cause easy to brain yourself with a short driver and a short post, when the bottom edge of the driver catches on the top of the post.

    Think they fired something at Thatcher out of that yoke in the 80's :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    The grips are fierce uncomfortable looking


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,173 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Made this this morning. Not pretty, but done the job. .

    At first l thought it was a homemade incendiary device to blow up the trooper! :D But now I realise tis a post driver! Nicely made btw


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 144 ✭✭quader


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Its the width I'm told :D

    Na it's how u use it and more importantly how often😎😎


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 513 ✭✭✭agriman27


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Made this this morning. Not pretty, but done the job. Good and long, cause easy to brain yourself with a short driver and a short post, when the bottom edge of the driver catches on the top of the post.

    Your jeep looks familiar I've seen it around:pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,298 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    agriman27 wrote: »
    Your jeep looks familiar I've seen it around:pac:

    Ha! Don't be shy, got loads of fencing on tomorrow :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    I use the front loader to drive stakes, much easier


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,422 ✭✭✭just do it


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Made this this morning. Not pretty, but done the job. Good and long, cause easy to brain yourself with a short driver and a short post, when the bottom edge of the driver catches on the top of the post.

    I'm glad I' not from where you're from ;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,298 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    just do it wrote: »
    I'm glad I' not from where you're from ;)

    They breed us tall up here.....;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,422 ✭✭✭just do it


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    They breed us tall up here.....;)

    I was thinking more of your location in the user detail panel on the left hand side :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,570 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    Reggie. wrote: »
    I feed all my bales with a similar fork and always pushed bushes with that fork as the branches can't get to the bonnet grill when your pushing

    My idea was a frame the width of the tractor with ( prob)5 tines at the bottom and a longer one centered and height to suit the centre of the bale
    Id only be handling 1 bale at a time so i could remove the centre and outer bottom tines if need be
    I could remove the long centre bale spike to use as light gauge forks for pallets/ barrels and for pushing bushes
    The closed back to protect the grill is good but maybe a strong steel meah for visibility
    Now what size / gauge of steel should be thinking of and are the brackets dear ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    cjmc wrote: »
    My idea was a frame the width of the tractor with ( prob)5 tines at the bottom and a longer one centered and height to suit the centre of the bale
    Id only be handling 1 bale at a time so i could remove the centre and outer bottom tines if need be
    I could remove the long centre bale spike to use as light gauge forks for pallets/ barrels and for pushing bushes
    The closed back to protect the grill is good but maybe a strong steel meah for visibility
    Now what size / gauge of steel should be thinking of and are the brackets dear ?

    Euro brackets can be got round the €80 ish mark, but could be up to €100 depending where you get them,

    As for steel bare minimum would be say 80*80*6 for the time beam, but if you could go heavier I would, and definitly put in tine bushings, just drilling 2 holes you'll never keep the tines tight..

    Personally I wouldn't be mad for taking times in and out as you'll never keep the buggers tight in it if you do. To be honest If your only gona put 5 tines in a fork the width of tractor I wouldn't be to worried about taking them out anyway, you'll have no problem getting them into bales, and if you use 32"tines they'll be long enough even for chopped bales.

    We've just 2*42" tines here on the fork and I hate opening silage bales on it as the centre falls through half the time whilst you r cutting the net off and ends up caught in the bale. On the other hand place i work in has a fork the bare width of the loader with 5*32"tines and it's no bother picking up bales and easier to break up bales and spread them out with it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,570 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    Zr105 wrote: »
    Euro brackets can be got round the €80 ish mark, but could be up to €100 depending where you get them,

    As for steel bare minimum would be say 80*80*6 for the time beam, but if you could go heavier I would, and definitly put in tine bushings, just drilling 2 holes you'll never keep the tines tight..

    Personally I wouldn't be mad for taking times in and out as you'll never keep the buggers tight in it if you do. To be honest If your only gona put 5 tines in a fork the width of tractor I wouldn't be to worried about taking them out anyway, you'll have no problem getting them into bales, and if you use 32"tines they'll be long enough even for chopped bales.

    We've just 2*42" tines here on the fork and I hate opening silage bales on it as the centre falls through half the time whilst you r cutting the net off and ends up caught in the bale. On the other hand place i work in has a fork the bare width of the loader with 5*32"tines and it's no bother picking up bales and easier to break up bales and spread them out with it

    Yeah think your right about puting tines in and out and thanks for trlling me about works fork
    What is 80'80'6 steel , 3" box ? And by go heavier is that size or gauge ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,298 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    80 millimeter square box , with a 6 millimeter thick wall. If you can get 100mm square with a 10 or 12 mm wall, would be ideal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    cjmc wrote: »
    Yeah think your right about puting tines in and out and thanks for trlling me about works fork
    What is 80'80'6 steel , 3" box ? And by go heavier is that size or gauge ?

    Yeah 80*80*6 would be close to 3inch, it'd be the modern equivalent, 3in would be closer to 75mm but it's either 70 or 80mm now!

    As nec says 100*100 with 10mm would be better, But the 80 should be fine. I suppose it depends what sort of loader/power you have behind it and what sort of weight your lifting aswell!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,570 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    , But the 80 should be fine. I suppose it depends what sort of loader/power you have behind it and what sort of weight your lifting aswell![/quote]

    Old case 885xl , lifting 1 bale and bushes most listly the bulk of the work
    I thought 100 mm might be heavy but maybe not. It'd be lighter than the bucket i use


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    cjmc wrote: »
    , But the 80 should be fine. I suppose it depends what sort of loader/power you have behind it and what sort of weight your lifting aswell!

    Old case 885xl , lifting 1 bale and bushes most listly the bulk of the work
    I thought 100 mm might be heavy but maybe not. It'd be lighter than the bucket i use[/quote]
    I'd go as heavy as you can really, even heavier walled 80*80 would be no harm really


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,570 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    I'd go as heavy as you can really, even heavier walled 80*80 would be no harm really[/quote]
    Heavier guage (10 mm) Would be handier welded too i magine


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,609 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    cjmc wrote: »
    I'd go as heavy as you can really, even heavier walled 80*80 would be no harm really
    Heavier guage (10 mm) Would be handier welded too i magine[/quote]

    Yeah it would as there is more steel to bite into


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Thinking about throwing together a trailed milk tank for feeding calves, pull it behind the quad. Don't think anyone makes one yet. Prob buy one of those atv trailer kits. There bout €180 and locate a tank to put on top of it. Enjoy welding a lot so looking forward to it.

    Any tips at all or advise regarding quad trailers?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭GY A1


    something like this
    made already

    http://www.donedeal.ie/feedingequipment-for-sale/calf-feeder/4461540


    delaney001 wrote: »
    Thinking about throwing together a trailed milk tank for feeding calves, pull it behind the quad. Don't think anyone makes one yet. Prob buy one of those atv trailer kits. There bout €180 and locate a tank to put on top of it. Enjoy welding a lot so looking forward to it.

    Any tips at all or advise regarding quad trailers?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,609 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    GY A1 wrote: »

    I like the lick bucket holder


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    GY A1 wrote: »

    It's actually only the transport I want. We could have ten groups of calves in different areas. They all feed on the 10 tit blue feeders hanging on a gate. So rather than having to carry buckets of milk around to 10 areas, it'd be handy fill this thing up and drive around to each pen. If that makes sense.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,381 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    36mm spanner, I needed one thin enough to fit between the engine block and the fan on a landrover defender.
    It worked and took me about 15 minutes .
    Its as rough as they get though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    If it works... I made a 36 mm socket from some pipe cut 5 slots in it flattened each section around the nut welded the joins, perfect job, welded handel on to the side of it, removed blades off a topper


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,609 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    dharn wrote: »
    If it works... I made a 36 mm socket from some pipe cut 5 slots in it flattened each section around the nut welded the joins, perfect job, welded handel on to the side of it, removed blades off a topper

    Nice...very nice


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,609 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Finally got back to the "sprocket"


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,991 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Nice work. What's with the paint job on the drum? Is it camouflaged?


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