I got the truggy - Cannot start it

workaccount

I have the truggy now and I cannot start it.
I have the transmitter and receiver on.

The glow plug and igniter work as I have tested them and the plug turns red.

When I pump the fuel I can see it go into the carb and then I heat the plug and try the pullstart.

I have probably flooded it more than once but I clear the flood and try again with no joy. What else could be wrong? I have tried heating the engine right up with a hairdryer.

T-Maxx

New engines are always tricky to start up the first few times. Persevere.:p

You might want to check the needles and carb linkags also. Remember the 4 ingredients: fuel, air, glowplug, compression.

Good luck.

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

Try opening the throttel a bit more, maybe up to half way, but keep an eye out for flooding.
The fuel air mix may be too rich, they are set very rich at the factory, this is why opening the throttel helps with starting, if you can get it going and then it cut out after a second try leaning the mixture with the HSN a little.

workaccount

I've got it started a few times now but it cuts out straight away when I take out the glow igniter. It will run fine with the igniter in.

The above has actually stopped now but it cuts out after a minute and fuel seems to be coming up from around the glow plug.

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

I would try to tighten the glow plug a little, this was happening to me too with my new buggy.
Did you try lean out the mixture a little?

workaccount

FuzzyWuzzyWazza wrote: »

I would try to tighten the glow plug a little, this was happening to me too with my new buggy.
Did you try lean out the mixture a little?

Yes thanks for the quick replies lads. It's now running on it's first tank for the last 10mins or so.

Is ti just four tanks through it and then I can drive the b***lks out of it or do I need to put more through.

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

Pretty much, you might want to keep an eye on how the engine is running for the first 10 tanks.

RC car fanatic

ive got my buggy started but when i take the ignitor out it stops...what to do??????????

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

check you needle settings. did you change any of the settings from 'stock'?
try opening the throttle a little, do this with the trim setting on your transmitter.

workaccount

Ok so I had a few spins in it today then and twas mighty craic.

I think I only have two problems now....the first is the servo setting as when I brake it usually cuts out the engine. I've got it abit better now but found it difficult to get the balance between throttle and brake.

My technique now for getting the engine started everytime from cold is take the plug out turn upside down and give it a good few turns. Turn it back around and put the plug back in....get fuel to the carb then 15 pulls and then glowplug igniter and a few pulls. Pain in the hole tbh but sure I suppose nitro is just that, isn't it?

Another issue that I have is the front wheels are constanly ballooning when I put the power down. I am driving in the grass.

Oh and this thing is feckin' thirsty. Would be handy to put a bigger fuel tank in?
There seems to be plenty of space.

Do I need to get some sort of oil aswell now for when I am finished driving it? What other things do I need to maintain it?

RC car fanatic

FuzzyWuzzyWazza wrote: »

check you needle settings. did you change any of the settings from 'stock'?
try opening the throttle a little, do this with the trim setting on your transmitter.

I put it back to stock..4 turns anti clockwise from closed and my other needles are grand,my trims are set grand aswell..could it be that the ignitor isnt charged enough.????

Plug

RC car fanatic wrote: »

ive got my buggy started but when i take the ignitor out it stops...what to do??????????

Thats just a glow plug I'd say.

mugenextreme

workaccount wrote: »

I think I only have two problems now....the first is the servo setting as when I brake it usually cuts out the engine. I've got it abit better now but found it difficult to get the balance between throttle and brake.

If the engine is cutting out when you are hitting the Brake chances are you may have the idle to low. So when you brake the carb is closing to much and starving the engine of air , try screwing the idle in and widening the gap.

workaccount wrote: »

My technique now for getting the engine started everytime from cold is take the plug out turn upside down and give it a good few turns. Turn it back around and put the plug back in....get fuel to the carb then 15 pulls and then glowplug igniter and a few pulls. Pain in the hole tbh but sure I suppose nitro is just that, isn't it?

If there is no primer on the tank and using the pull start doesnt pull fuel into the engine , Place your finger over the exhaust and using the pull start turn the engine over a few times this should work without removing the plug and turning it upside down

workaccount wrote: »

Another issue that I have is the front wheels are constanly ballooning when I put the power down. I am driving in the grass.

Make sure they are glued but if they are from a rtr chances are you will have to live with this. problem

workaccount wrote: »

Oh and this thing is feckin' thirsty. Would be handy to put a bigger fuel tank in?

5 - 8 mins is average for a tank on most cars with the exception of some monster trucks which have large tanks

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Oh and this thing is feckin' thirsty.

Thats the joys of the .32 engine
And
That is the cause of your front tyres ballooning.. "Too Much Power...!!"

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Thats the joys of the .32 engine
And
That is the cause of your front tyres ballooning.. "Too Much Power...!!"

Would I be wrong in thinking you could get more power from a smaller higher performance engine?

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Would I be wrong in thinking you could get more power from a smaller higher performance engine?

Depends on track type etc.
Some rev higher giving higher top speed
Some have more torque for shorter tracks.

AFAIK, The bigger = more torque
BUT
You can get a .21 with different amounts of ports in them giving the same result.:cool:

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Depends on track type etc.
Some rev higher giving higher top speed
Some have more torque for shorter tracks.

AFAIK, The bigger = more torque
BUT
You can get a .21 with different amounts of ports in them giving the same result.:cool:

So basically I'm getting rubbish economy when I could be getting the same power and speed as a .21 while using much less fuel?

T-Maxx

Vectra is right:

smaller displacement ===>>> higher rpm, less torque

higher displacement ===>>> higher torque, less rpm

Really depends on the track and your truck (small block trucks normally can't handle big block torque and you'll strip diffs and gearboxes, also the bigger engine might not physically fit.)

workaccount

T-Maxx wrote: »

Vectra is right:

smaller displacement ===>>> higher rpm, less torque

higher displacement ===>>> higher torque, less rpm

Really depends on the track and your truck (small block trucks normally can't handle big block torque and you'll strip diffs and gearboxes, also the bigger engine might not physically fit.)

I actually think the feckin' clutch might be gone in it already.

I had it out yesterday and I was nearly out of fuel was giving it thottle and the engine was revving really high but the it was not moving. I then lifted it off the ground and the wheels started spinning but when I put it back on the ground had no joy. I did not get the chance to test it again as it was my last drop of fuel.

tbh I was jamming open full throttle alot. I suppose you should be more gentle and always open the throttle slowly. I realised this afterwards and given that the engine has lots of torque I suppose is greatly going to increase the chances of broken clutches.

vectra

You shouldnt burn out the clutch that easy. Have oyu checked that the brakes are not binding ?

T-Maxx

Not sure exactly how your drivetrain looks, but it could be the clutch, slipper clutch, spur gear, clutch bell. Maybe the bearing on the clutch bell has gone south on you.

workaccount

T-Maxx wrote: »

Not sure exactly how your drivetrain looks, but it could be the clutch, slipper clutch, spur gear, clutch bell. Maybe the bearing on the clutch bell has gone south on you.

Yeah I'll just have to try it now again when I get fuel. I'll have to open it up then if it's not working out and take a look.

Coolwings: If your reading this answer your PM!

workaccount

Just regarding the fuel line. It got severed in half when I was using it last weekend as I think it was sitting on the exhaust.

I cut it in half and it still reaches the connector on the top of the exhaust fine. At the length it's at now there's no chance of it sitting on the exhaust again so I could like to leave it like this.

Would this affect the fuel system in anyway?

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

I don't think it will affect the fuel system, or at least I can't see how it would.

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Depends on track type etc.
Some rev higher giving higher top speed
Some have more torque for shorter tracks.

AFAIK, The bigger = more torque
BUT
You can get a .21 with different amounts of ports in them giving the same result.:cool:

That just seems like a massive waste of nitro then. I mean, what do I need all that extra torque for - I'm not pulling a trailer.

If I could get the same results with a .21 would I not drastically reduce the amount of nitro required.

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

I don't think that you would see that much of a saving, more so when you consider the price of a new engine, false economy IMO.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

That just seems like a massive waste of nitro then. I mean, what do I need all that extra torque for - I'm not pulling a trailer.

If I could get the same results with a .21 would I not drastically reduce the amount of nitro required.

I suppose I shouldnt have said "SAME RESULT"
Maybe Similar result would be better.
Why do you need all that torque?
well
short track
short straight (S)
Plenty of torque to pull you out of the corners and get up to speed quicker than the guy with the piddly .21

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

I suppose I shouldnt have said "SAME RESULT"
Maybe Similar result would be better.
Why do you need all that torque?
well
short track
short straight (S)
Plenty of torque to pull you out of the corners and get up to speed quicker than the guy with the piddly .21

eeeemmh :mad:

I still cannot get my head around torque vs. speed / high revs etc.


Ok so last week one of the front wheels hit a pole quite fast and it pushed the wishbone right out. I now have it back in but the bar
that connects the wishbone to the chassis is loose on the right side of the car compared to the side that was not damaged. I'd imagine when I am driving it that one side will be moving around alot more than the other.

Attached is a video anyway to try and explain further. The videos not great but it's my first.

http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll29/workaccount2/?action=view&current=Movie.flv

I hope you don't have to be a member to view this video. Let me know if you do and I will find somewhere else to host it.


EDIT: I've just noticed there that something behind the front bumper has broken off. Perhaps you can take a quick look at yours there vectra and let me know what's missing.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

I've just noticed there that something behind the front bumper has broken off. Perhaps you can take a quick look at yours there vectra and let me know what's missing.

I will have a look tomorow. I see what you mean about the wishbone sliding back and forth. I would assume it is only some clips missing for adjustment. I will check tomorow for you
Dont panic :pac:

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

I will have a look tomorow. I see what you mean about the wishbone sliding back and forth. I would assume it is only some clips missing for adjustment. I will check tomorow for you
Dont panic :pac:

Cool.

You might also tell me which one of these is actually 18AWG.




You can see clearly the cable not connected to the battery is marked 18AWG. However the battery cable has a tag on it that says 18AWG but is much thicker!

vectra

The ones on the cells look more like 14 or 12 awg.
The one disconnected is deffo 18awg I reckon

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

The ones on the cells look more like 14 or 12 awg.
The one disconnected is deffo 18awg I reckon

Oh so the lower the number the thicker.

Did you get a chance to check the wishbone and bumper on your hong nor?

workaccount

Hey,
Dya reckon you will be able to check that on your hong nor vectra?

I'm more or less parked up I think until I get it sorted. It would be handy if you could check otherwise I might just give the modelsport forums a go.

Thanks.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Hey,
Dya reckon you will be able to check that on your hong nor vectra?

I'm more or less parked up I think until I get it sorted. It would be handy if you could check otherwise I might just give the modelsport forums a go.

Thanks.

Oops.
Completely slipped my mind
I will give a look tomorow.
Sorry about that

vectra

OK,

Had a quick look but really couldnt see what your problem could be.
The best thing I could suggest is to make an exact comparison to the other side maybe

I took a few pics. They may not be great but have a look here >> CRT PICS << :cool:
Let me know how it goes

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

It sounds like you ar missing a spacer from the pin that acts as the hinge for the A-arm, just look at the arm on the other side, they should have the exact same setup.

workaccount

Just figured it out. My front lower arm holder broke off. That's why looking at the other side did not work. The other side was not moving around so much though so I assumed it was normal. Assumption: The mother of all f*** ups!

Rc cars really are not as strong as I thought they were although I have seen some people doing some mad stuff on youtube.

I mean along with that arm holder breaking my front bumper is broken too. I still have only used the buggy for those two days when I got it about 3 or 4 weeks ago.

Anyway should be all sorted now again soon...I have learned the hard way as usual.

I'm ordering the parts now tonight and am going to get one of those venom smart temps so I can tune the engine.

Vectra: Have you found a site where you can get your spares handily by using names or codes from the instruction manual?? It would be so handy.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Anyway should be all sorted now again soon...I have learned the hard way as usual.

I'm ordering the parts now tonight and am going to get one of those venom smart temps so I can tune the engine.

Vectra: Have you found a site where you can get your spares handily by using names or codes from the instruction manual?? It would be so handy.

Ideally you should learn to drive it before trying to Fly it
That way less seems to get broken :rolleyes:

Best place for Parts is Bolton Model mart. Just give Pete a ring or email and he will be on it in an instant.

Not sure about that venom Smart temps.
Get yourself a Temp guage and use that.:pac:

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Ideally you should learn to drive it before trying to Fly it
That way less seems to get broken :rolleyes:

Best place for Parts is Bolton Model mart. Just give Pete a ring or email and he will be on it in an instant.

Not sure about that venom Smart temps.
Get yourself a Temp guage and use that.:pac:

What temp gauge do you use? Is Pete competitive for parts. ie. same prices as the US or ebay?

I've found everything eventually but am stuck on finding the "X1 40 stabilizer ball end" to connect the front stabilizer to the bottom a arm.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

What temp gauge do you use? Is Pete competitive for parts. ie. same prices as the US or ebay?

I use this temp gauge >> TEMP GAUGE <<
I also use it for indoor touring car racing to check the temp of the track so as I can decide on which tyres to run :cool:

workaccount

Right. Have it nearly all fixed up again. One of the threads is ruined on where the front suspension/ wheels etc. connect to the chassis.

Not sure how that happened as I was gentle with the screws. Will have to get a die to rethread.

What do you think of this advice....
You put 4xAA batteries in it and that's what powers the receiver and servos. This should be changed for a high capacity high current rechargable receiver pack. This is ALWAYS the first upgrade to do on these 1/10th nitro cars, as the AA batteries are heavy and don't give enough current to properly power the servos (you'll immediately notice the difference when you upgrade it, the servos will be faster and stronger). You need one of these...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=7

Surely it's not applicable for a .32 cc truggy?

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Right. Have it nearly all fixed up again. One of the threads is ruined on where the front suspension/ wheels etc. connect to the chassis.

Not sure how that happened as I was gentle with the screws. Will have to get a die to rethread.

What do you think of this advice....
You put 4xAA batteries in it and that's what powers the receiver and servos. This should be changed for a high capacity high current rechargable receiver pack. This is ALWAYS the first upgrade to do on these 1/10th nitro cars, as the AA batteries are heavy and don't give enough current to properly power the servos (you'll immediately notice the difference when you upgrade it, the servos will be faster and stronger). You need one of these...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=7

Surely it's not applicable for a .32 cc truggy?

Personally I prefer the Hump pack over the 4 AA cells.
If my memory serves me correctly Plug has a brand newhigh capacity hump pack for sale

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Personally I prefer the Hump pack over the 4 AA cells.
If my memory serves me correctly Plug has a brand newhigh capacity hump pack for sale

Does it actually give more power or what?

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

It gives the same 6 volts as a set of 4 AA's. If you are using cheap AA's then the hump pack will be much better, if you are using duracell then not that much of a differance, but the hump pack will be cheaper to run in the longrun. Also you don't have problems with batteries working thenselves loose from the 4 cell holder.

workaccount

FuzzyWuzzyWazza wrote: »

It gives the same 6 volts as a set of 4 AA's. If you are using cheap AA's then the hump pack will be much better, if you are using duracell then not that much of a differance, but the hump pack will be cheaper to run in the longrun. Also you don't have problems with batteries working thenselves loose from the 4 cell holder.

Yeah I'm not sure if it's worth it for me as I have loads of 2700Mah GP batteries (rechargeables). For example this hump pack http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/268745.asp is only 1100Mah.

One thing I have noticed on both my car and plane is that my servos are always making noise and sometimes moving very slightly back and forth without any user input. It will start happening as soon as I turn on the receiver. I wonder if this is normal.

coolwings

workaccount wrote: »

... I have noticed on both my car and plane is that my servos are always making noise and sometimes moving very slightly back and forth without any user input. It will start happening as soon as I turn on the receiver. I wonder if this is normal.

If you turn the receiver on first it will hear background noise ... weak interference if you like, and the servos respond by twitching.

Usually we turn the transmitter on first.
This shouts down the low level interference, and the servos move only when a transmitter stick is moved.

If the servos move by themselves when the tx is on and the sticks are motionless, you have an interference problem to sort out. Sometimes it is a strong transmission nearby ...... nearly always it is generated within the model itself however. Mechanincal models with metal to metal joins and vibration like eg helis make a lot of interference.

A steel linkage to a steel engine throttle arm is almost certain to spark and make static when the engine is running. That's why we have plastic clevises or plastic engine throttle arms.
So does spark plug ignition of gasoline engine large scale models.

Electric models sometimes make interference mainly by pulsation of battery voltage radiation out of the battery leads, worn brushes of brushed motors sparking (run it in the dark and observe the blue flashes) or cheap electronic speed controllers.
We have supressor capacitors, ferrite rings, and smart supressors to deal with these issues.
Usually separating the wires to a distance from each other is enough and nothing else is required.

workaccount

coolwings wrote: »

If you turn the receiver on first it will hear background noise ... weak interference if you like, and the servos respond by twitching.

Usually we turn the transmitter on first.
This shouts down the low level interference, and the servos move only when a transmitter stick is moved.

If the servos move by themselves when the tx is on and the sticks are motionless, you have an interference problem to sort out. Sometimes it is a strong transmission nearby ...... nearly always it is generated within the model itself however. Mechanincal models with metal to metal joins and vibration like eg helis make a lot of interference.

A steel linkage to a steel engine throttle arm is almost certain to spark and make static when the engine is running. That's why we have plastic clevises or plastic engine throttle arms.
So does spark plug ignition of gasoline engine large scale models.

Electric models sometimes make interference mainly by pulsation of battery voltage radiation out of the battery leads, worn brushes of brushed motors sparking (run it in the dark and observe the blue flashes) or cheap electronic speed controllers.
We have supressor capacitors, ferrite rings, and smart supressors to deal with these issues.
Usually separating the wires to a distance from each other is enough and nothing else is required.

Cheers for that. Somebody said to me before that there was too much pressure on the servo and you need to loosen the rod that connected to it or something. Is it actually a big deal if there moving and twitching? ie. Can it damage the servo's?


btw coolwings I think I'll get a courier to pick up some Nitro from your place providing it's economical to do. Check your PM's.

workaccount

Hello again,
I have another problem here. I start the engine so it's idling. When I open the throttle (even by the slighest fraction) it will cut out.


I have ran the truggy a few times now today. I have been running a tank..letting it cut out...refill...restart.

Sometimes after the fill and restart it will go fine with no problems. Other times it will do the explained above and then work after three starts. Now though after about 7 or 8 restarts it just keeps cutting.

I've noticed that there are a small amount of tiny air bubbles in the fuel line. The fuel line has no cuts or visible damage and the connections seems fine.

workaccount

These truggys really are problematic....It's been endless problems since I got it.

I tuned the engine this evening and got a nice bit more performance out of it. I then went to tighten the brakes as they were rubbish.

I think I tightened them a little too much. (it really did not seem that much though) Anyways it seems my throttle servo is dead. When I switch the car on and move it back and forth a few times it just curls into the throttle end of won't budge then.

It's a futaba S3003 servo. They only seem to be about 8 euro on ebay. Should I get a better one to replace?

coolwings

If a servo gets wet, it moves to one end of its travel and stops there.
Put it somewhere warm to dry out. It may "recover".

workaccount

coolwings wrote: »

If a servo gets wet, it moves to one end of its travel and stops there.
Put it somewhere warm to dry out. It may "recover".

Turns out it was not the servo. Initally I thought it was the failsafe putting it into the brake position so took it out and all seemed grand again.

Then I realised I was losing signal while driving. It turns out the batteries are loose in the transmitter compartment.

I never had this problem with the old batteries until I switched at the weekend to rechargeables from the ones I got free with the truggy. There all AA though.

I'm now reduced to packing abit of toilet roll over the batteries before putting on the cover and that still does not always work.

Kind of weird for a futaba transmitter. I know it's el cheapo but still.