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Project Vortex

  • #1
    Registered Users Posts: 13,577 ✭✭✭✭ Inquitus


    New build from some existing and some new parts.

    Case: Mountain Mods U2-UFO Horizon
    CPU: QX6700
    MOBO: EVGA 680i SLI
    RAM: OCZ 4GB (2 x 2GB) PC2-6400C5 Dual Channel Vista Gold Series DDR2
    Rad: Thermochill 3.1
    Chipset Blocks: EK Mosfet, NB and SB
    CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GTX Extreme Performance CPU Waterblock Rev.2
    GPU Block: Danger Den NV 8800GTX GPU
    Pump: Laing D5-Vario (1/2")
    PSU: Seasonic M12 Modular 700W Silent ATX2.0 Power Supply
    HDD's: 4 x 500GB Sata-II 16MB NCQ
    GPU: OcUK GeForce 8800 GTX 768MB GDDR3 HDTV/Dual DVI (PCI-Express) - OEM
    Reservoir: EK Multi-Option Res400 Rev2
    Fan Controller: Zalman ZM-MFC1 Plus Fan Controller - Black
    LCD: Alphacool LCD Display 240x128 Pixel

    Pics and build to commence this weekend.

    Inqui


«1

Comments



  • subscribed ;)




  • reserved 2




  • I have to say over-clock.co.uk have been brilliant, but the Mountain Mods guys must have been stoned when they packed the case.

    1) No case screws - The case needs 16 special flathead #6-32 screws to assemble. These are countersunk so the sides and top can then be affixed over the top. These screws are not common and despite trying a number of hardware stores I will have to wait until some arrive from the UK. So Whilst I can go ahead with the build using some normal #6-32 screws I will have to replace them with the correct ones before I can put on the top and sides.

    2) They also sent me an insert for 5 x 5 1/4" bays as per pic 1 below, my case needs two 3 x 5 1/4" inserts as per pic 2 below.

    U2UFOS.jpg

    15_64_full.jpg




  • subscribed :)

    how much you get the horizon for?




  • Hey Inq, I don't think you are going to be able to edit those reserved posts later unless you're a mod of this forum. After a couple of days your ability to edit your own posts expires.

    Oh and damn you for all the spam, I was expecting loads of pictures.

    Out of curiosity... what camera will you be using for the pictures?


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  • @ Leimrod

    I'll be using my wifes Pink Sony DSC-T20.

    I'll delete those reserved posts then :)

    @ RMC

    About 335 euro, the GBP / EUR exchange rate has made it a damnsight cheaper




  • Inquitus wrote: »
    @ Leimrod

    I'll be using my wifes Pink Sony DSC-T20.

    I'll delete those reserved posts then :)

    @ RMC

    About 335 euro, the GBP / EUR exchange rate has made it a damnsight cheaper

    :rolleyes: Thank fúck for that, I was afraid u were gonna say Anti was loaning u his camera :D




  • PogMoThoin wrote: »
    :rolleyes: Thank fúck for that, I was afraid u were gonna say Anti was loaning u his camera :D


    Lol :p




  • OK I have done the basic case assembly and added in the PA 120.3 Rad, the performance shroud and the fans....all mounted to the case.

    The wife has absconded with the memory card to her camera, so the pics I have are saved to it's internal memory........ofc she lost the PC Cable long ago, so until I get the mem card back tomorrow and transfer the pics to the card and then the PC there will be no pics :(

    I've ensured I have all the right barbs for all components, all are 1/2" as per the tubing, so bar the mountain mod's case issues the rest should be plain sailing. Having built some watercooled rigs in the past in much tighter confines (A thermaltake shark back in the P4 days and a SFF PC), it really is going to be a pleasure to work with so much space to play with.

    Inqui




  • cant wait for these to come up! what was your total costs on the lot?


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    My wife drinks Coors Light, it is an abomination to beer, but alas crap beer is better than no beer so I gave into the temptation......

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  • OK there's a few things I need to look into. I would rather have the Rad at the bottom and the 2 x 5 1/4" bays at the top. This depends on if there is enough clearance between the DVD Drive and the Mobo.

    This just involves flipping that particular panel over. It makes more sense to me to have the bays at the top within easy reach.

    The EK Reservior is massive, but it will look sweet inside the case.

    I am going to put the 2 Harddrive caddies on the bottom 2 120mm Fan spaces. The PSU goes in the bottom, and I will put the reservior in the opposite corner. The pump will go somewhere down the bottom too.




  • lookin sweet dude! gorgeous kids aswel. i assume their your's and your not 1 of them? :p




  • Nursing a hangover so I might leave any more until tomorrow. Next order of the day is open mobo surgery and mounting all the water blocks.




  • Is the panel in the first pick just really glossy black or is it chromed?! looks great




  • whenever I see kids in pictures I always try to imagine what computers will look like when they are taking photos of them with their kids. Its hard to imagine 10 years from now we'll be looking back going "pff, my mobile phone is more powerful than that pc"

    Anyway, Inq, whats the purpose of the shroud? I've seen these rads used without them, is there any special reason to install them?




  • Theres a dead spot close to the Fans, the shroud improves the performance slightly by getting rid of the deadspot, it also quitens it a bit. It's probably very marginal, as with most things like lapping etc ect
    Replacement Performance Shroud for Thermochill PA120 Series Radiators.

    Please note, shrouds are not necessary for PA Series rads. They are an optional extra. Our radiators function perfectly fine without the additional performance shroud. The shroud can gain you 2% in performance at extremely low CFM ranges.

    # Shroud fabricated from sheet steel and black powder-coated (other finishes coming soon)
    # For ALL PA120.x series Radiators
    # Elevates fans from PA120.x core surface by an additional 40mm to further reduce noise and provide more even airflow distribution across core surface area.
    # Neoprene Fan Gaskets Available to further reduce vibration noise and provide total airseal of fan to shroud and shroud to radiator.




  • Inquitus wrote: »
    Theres a dead spot close to the Fans, the shroud improves the performance slightly by getting rid of the deadspot, it also quitens it a bit. It's probably very marginal, as with most things like lapping etc ect

    I suppose if you have the space for it then why not. btw are you aiming for silence with this build or performance?




  • L31mr0d wrote: »
    I suppose if you have the space for it then why not. btw are you aiming for silence with this build or performance?

    I think it will be a happy medium of both. All the fans are silenx 14dba and 72CFM, the cooling will be top notch, so performance will not be hindered, but there will be obvious silence benefits.

    I am aiming for 3.6GHZ off the CPU as a minimum and a good percentage more out of the GPU which currently smashes Ultra levels even on air.

    Inqui


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  • Inquitus wrote: »
    I think it will be a happy medium of both. All the fans are silenx 14dba and 72CFM, the cooling will be top notch, so performance will not be hindered, but there will be obvious silence benefits.

    I am aiming for 3.6GHZ off the CPU as a minimum and a good percentage more out of the GPU which currently smashes Ultra levels even on air.

    Inqui

    I really hope you don't believe those fan specs, SilenX are known to massively exaggerate CFM and report much lower dbA ratings than reality. Seriously Yate loon, Scythe S-Flex and Zalman ZM-F3 are the only fans I'd consider for a rad. And they're all cheaper than "SilenX" :rolleyes::rolleyes:
    Good luck with the build looks great so far.




  • I've got about 10 Scythe S-Flex from my existing build, they are defo louder than the Silenx from my experience.

    Anyways there is a potential showstopper. I cannot remove the rear mount of the Ultra-120 I was using - the glue is just too sticky and I don't see anyway round it without potentially making ****e of the mobo.




  • I had the same problem with the sticky pad on the backing plate of the tuniq tower, got it eventually by sliding an old credit card through the pad. Had the same problem on awhir's mobo and solved it the same way.




  • PogMoThoin wrote: »
    I had the same problem with the sticky pad on the backing plate of the tuniq tower, got it eventually by sliding an old credit card through the pad. Had the same problem on awhir's mobo and solved it the same way.

    Just used a knife, but CC would be more intelligent :)

    1/2" Tubing is a bitch to work with, gives the best flow rates and all, though marginal these days on a fully blocked mobo. I am cutting the tubing and applying it to all the blocks before I mount the blocks to the board....it just requires too much force.

    2/1 I make **** of this mobo and have to buy another off of ebay ;)

    Inqui




  • Inquitus wrote: »
    1/2" Tubing is a bitch to work with, gives the best flow rates and all, though marginal these days on a fully blocked mobo. I am cutting the tubing and applying it to all the blocks before I mount the blocks to the board....it just requires too much force.

    what do you mean "it just requires too much force"??? Do you mean trying to get it to fit around the barbs? From reading around the advice is to soak the tubing in hot water before pushing it down on the barb as it will be flexible.

    I'm thinking about getting 3/8" tubing for my build, is it going to be a bitch to fit that onto 1/2" barbs?




  • There's no way you'd be able to fit the blocks and then fit the tubing and jubilee clips imo. Easier to pipe it all up, tighten it and then mount the lot...




  • Why? 1/2" on 1/2" barbs goes on really easy even 7/16" isn't that hard to get on to 1/2" barbs. Heating the tubing up a bit always helps.
    Try undervolting the Scythes, 7v or 5v if you want quieter. They really are a hell of a lot better than silenx...




  • Project Vortex was trumped by project get the loft converted and an extension out the back of the house. This is nearing completion and i should be able to get back on with this in about 6 weeks time.

    I borked the original Mobo, got a DFI X48 board to replace it.




  • Building computers take time. I just do the simple slap in the parts and away she goes. Still takes me time... and more offten then not i take it apart a few days later to do some changes. This can happen 4 or 5 times before im happy.


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  • Cant wait to see this MM build !!


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