I want 2 buy an electric RCC

pbaker1983

hi all, i want to buy an RC electric buggy or monster truck, new or second hand i dont mind, if u know of anyone selling one at bargain price give me a shout,thanks - Paul -

vectra

pbaker1983 wrote: »

hi all, i want to buy an RC electric buggy or monster truck, new or second hand i dont mind, if u know of anyone selling one at bargain price give me a shout,thanks - Paul - 0877855785

Do not post personal details such as telephone numbers please.
If you need to give them to anyone you can PM them.

pbaker1983

SORRY:eek:

vectra

pbaker1983 wrote: »

SORRY:eek:

Only for your own personal safety :cool:
Are you not going to delete your phone number?

kirving

I have a HPI RS4 MT, electric truck. All stock Parts. Its been used less than 10 times, its still in excellent condition. The battery would probably need replacing, possibly the motor too if you wanted a better one. I'd be selling it with the radio and batteries. The full set cost me 380 new, how much would you be willing to pay?

vectra

Is >> THIS << any good to you?

pbaker1983

thanks!!!! that seems good , but wat would i know ? wat u think of it,would it be fast ?how much would u say its worth bidding till, it starts bidding at 40 sterling, ty

pbaker1983

i have an oppurtunity to buy a traxxas sportmaxx 4 100 euro, its a 1yr old and seems ligitimate, does anyone have any idea if this gas powered car would it be to much hastle 4 some1 who doesnt much about RCC engines ect .....

lotus791

if the standard trx engine is in it run it very rich as they are a pain .part from that you will have fun ask the person sellin it do they have the dvd it came with as it explains most about the engine set up.or look on trx website

vectra

pbaker1983 wrote: »

i have an oppurtunity to buy a traxxas sportmaxx 4 100 euro, its a 1yr old and seems ligitimate, does anyone have any idea if this gas powered car would it be to much hastle 4 some1 who doesnt much about RCC engines ect .....

Doesnt look half bad in >> THIS VIDEO <<

The only concern I would have is the engine. If it is the Blue head it would be quite ok.
If it is the silver head they can be a BUGGER TO TUNE..!!

pbaker1983

is it simply the colour of the engine i have to look out for(whats the difference in the two engines?, wat i know is that it is a smaxx 2.5, I got him down to 100 does that sound fair,what would it be new, thanks for all the help

pbaker1983

where can i buy parts ect.... how much would a new engine cost about.

vectra

Have you seen it running?

T-Maxx

FYI, the TRX 2.5 (grey head) and the TRX 2.5R (blue head) are exactly the same engines - except for the heads obviously.

€100 for a good 2nd hand S-Maxx sounds like a deal to me, but if you're unfamiliar with nitro engines, I'd suggest you tag someone with you that can help you look the model over before you part with the dosh.

Parts are readliy available (eBay or online hobby shops) and are cheap enough with the weak US$! (I got a new sleeve, piston and rod for $50 delivered.)

vectra

T-Maxx wrote: »

FYI, the TRX 2.5 (grey head) and the TRX 2.5R (blue head) are exactly the same engines - except for the heads obviously.

I was certain that only the later ones were identical?
Didnt the earlier grey hed ones have different port timing or something?
they then modified it to match the blue head one ( 2.5r )

Still
€100 is a deal alright.
Could always put an OS18 engine in there or even an RB323 afterwards

Plug

t-maxx for €300, loads of spares, new diff, pipe, servo etc:cool: pm me of interested.

T-Maxx

Plug wrote: »

t-maxx for €300, loads of spares, new diff, pipe, servo etc:cool: pm me of interested.

Incl. Big Joe's, 2 x extra engines, 2 x extra bodies, etc?

T-Maxx

vectra wrote: »

I was certain that only the later ones were identical?
Didnt the earlier grey hed ones have different port timing or something?
they then modified it to match the blue head one ( 2.5r )

I think you have the Pro.15 engine in mind which came fitted in the original Maxx.

(Says something about your age though ...:D)

vectra

T-Maxx wrote: »

I think you have the Pro.15 engine in mind which came fitted in the original Maxx.

(Says something about your age though ...:D)

Nope
That had a blue head on there as well though as far as I remember because one of my buddies has one.

BUT
the difference between the earlier grey head 2.5 and the 2.5r in the revo
was
The Bule more efficiant head
and
Slightly different porting
PLUS
The blue head ones apparently were much easier to tune

T-Maxx

Got to admit they're not the easiest engines to tune. Very powerful for a 2.5cc though once you get in dialled in.:D

pbaker1983

i bought the sportmaxx, i was given a masterclass on how to operate it from your man i got it off,:D;):D;):D

the only thing wrong with it is the rear suspension isnt as springy as the front by about 50%
do i need to replace the springs, or the whole shock???

any upkeep and maintainance tips for the car would be much appreciated.

Does any one know good areas in dublin to use the sportmaxx ? - I live in south Dublin. ty

T-Maxx

I would go about as follows:

1. Clean
2. Check for possible binding, ie bent hinge pins
3. Replace/lubricate as required.
4. Check spring retainers
5. Check shock for possible bent shaft

Chances are slim that the actual spring needs replacement, but you could take it off and compare with the others. Servicing the shocks might be required, ie new oil and/or seals.

pbaker1983

is servicing the shocks as u desrcibed a job i could do myself?

Where is a good place in dublin for a bash?
thnks:)

T-Maxx

pbaker1983 wrote: »

is servicing the shocks as u desrcibed a job i could do myself?

Sure, not difficult at all. Get some silicone oil first because you'll need to fill up the shocks again. 35w is about the factory fill.

pbaker1983 wrote: »

Where is a good place in dublin for a bash?

Anywhere really.:p Just be mindful of the noise pollution.:D

pbaker1983

T-Maxx wrote: »

Sure, not difficult at all. Get some silicone oil first because you'll need to fill up the shocks again. 35w is about the factory fill.



Anywhere really.:p Just be mindful of the noise pollution.:D

thanks t maxx where does one get silicone oil in dublin:rolleyes:

T-Maxx

Try the lads down at Green Hobby & Model - very helpful and friendly.

vectra

pbaker1983 wrote: »

thanks t maxx where does one get silicone oil in dublin:rolleyes:

Green hobby and models

vectra

Lol
Snap..!! :d

pbaker1983

hi guys, my traxxas wont start:mad: the starter motor is turning but the engine itself isnt turning over,`WHEN I TRY TO start it with the e-z starter.... i brought to green models to ask them to fix it but they said there to busy, they said maybe the gears may be stuck or something,but im really lost when it comes to this,anyone have this same problem b4 , or know how to fix it,PM IF anyone can fix it and ill pay em. thanks guys

coolwings

Green Hobby would get to do it for you after a few days once the post Xmas rush is over. You could drop back later.

But if you want to get it going right now ... you want to look at the gears inside the rotostart area, one of those has probably lost a tooth or 2.
Do you have the book belonging to the car? Look for the sub-assembly diagram of the area where the rotostart plugs into the car.
It is a screwdriver job, not too advanced.

vectra

pbaker1983 wrote: »

hi guys, my traxxas wont start:mad: the starter motor is turning but the engine itself isnt turning over,`WHEN I TRY TO start it with the e-z starter.... i brought to green models to ask them to fix it but they said there to busy, they said maybe the gears may be stuck or something,but im really lost when it comes to this,anyone have this same problem b4 , or know how to fix it,PM IF anyone can fix it and ill pay em. thanks guys

Simple job I reckon, I would suggest that the "One way" bearing is slipping.
You need to remove the starting assembly on the rear of the engine, Slide off the one way bearing and wash it out in WD40. Put it back together and all should be ok.;)

>> READ HERE << :cool:

pbaker1983

i did all u guys said:eek:
i cleaned the nut in wd40, it wasn't that dirty, and cleaned all the other bits around it , then i looked at all the gears and they all seemed fine, no breaks or cracks, took them all out and replaced them properly,its still just turning over the starter motor thing and not the actual engine,
i really want to get this resolved , any thing else i can try or is there any one i can leave it with o fix,
thanks

vectra

pbaker1983 wrote: »

i did all u guys said:eek:
i cleaned the nut in wd40, it wasn't that dirty, and cleaned all the other bits around it , then i looked at all the gears and they all seemed fine, no breaks or cracks, took them all out and replaced them properly,its still just turning over the starter motor thing and not the actual engine,
i really want to get this resolved , any thing else i can try or is there any one i can leave it with o fix,
thanks

Did you put the oneway bearing in the right way round? ( not sure if it fits both ways )

pbaker1983

ye i did , it had the writing facing outwards.

pbaker1983

well actually that depends on weather it should be facing out on the engine side or on the gear side.i had it facing out on the gear side

vectra

pbaker1983 wrote: »

well actually that depends on weather it should be facing out on the engine side or on the gear side.i had it facing out on the gear side

STEP 1: Note that on some models, the rubber exhaust pipe will require removal in order to gain access to the EZ-Start mechanism. you'll need to remove the engine from the Revo, Nitro Vee, and all nitro Maxx truck models in order to access the EZ-Start. Remove the EZ-Start by loosening the three 3x8mm round head machine screws that thread into the engine back plate. Next, remove the one-way bearing, but first take note at the way the bearing is installed. The text located on one side of the bearing must face the engine case when installed onto the starter shaft.


Writing should point towards the engine according to that.

pbaker1983

ye thats the way i put it back together, maybe its just something i cant simply spot:(

vectra

pbaker1983 wrote: »

ye thats the way i put it back together, maybe its just something i cant simply spot:(

You said 2 posts up that you put it in facing the gear side which is facing out.
Now you say it is facing in.?
Im confused

pbaker1983

basically the nut side with the writing on it is facing the engine--- is that right?
sorry for the confusion

vectra

pbaker1983 wrote: »

basically the nut side with the writing on it is facing the engine--- is that right?
sorry for the confusion

Sounds right.

Not sure what to suggest then only get someone like GHM to look at it for you.;)

T-Maxx

Try the following:

1. Slide the OWB (one way bearing) over the engine's starter shaft and turn it - see if if grips either direction. If not - the OWB needs replacement.
2. With the EZ start assembly removed from the engine, hook it up to a DC power supply (anything between 2.4 and 8.4V should prolly do it) to see if it actually turns the OWB. If you look closely at the EZ start motor, you'll see a little + and - next to the terminals. Tip: Once it actually turns, it's easy to make sure that the OWB is in the right way around .
3. Worst case scenario: check to see that the piston actually moves up/down and that the conrod didn't snap.:eek:

(If you're still stuck, I'm in North Dublin and could give you a hand.)

vectra

T-Maxx wrote: »

3. Worst case scenario: check to see that the piston actually moves up/down and that the conrod didn't snap.:eek:

I didnt want to say that

pbaker1983

ur a sound man tmaxx:):):):):)

ill try all that advice

and dont worry the piston moves