Making a Poker Table

zuutroy

Gonna try my hand at this. What I have in mind is a 10 seater race-track style table with padded rail and cup holders/ash trays in the race track. Bought two nice sheets of 18mm pine plywood today (100 quid! :eek:) Gonna get cutting tomorrow, and there's a good fabric shop in town for the felt (would like recommendations on this, is it better to go for synthetic that won't bobble wiht use? ) and the rail padding etc.
Any suggestions would be appreciated, as I've never played at a real table before so I don't know what things to avoid and what to include. I'll post pics here as I go....

Mellor

I still haven't started mine after spending a fair amount of the time doing the plans up.
A point of note, you spend too much on the ply. The finish of the ply doesn't matter as it will all be covered, it is a good idea to use thick sheets to provide rigidity, but remember that at a point you are just adding weight, doesn't matter now as it is bought. I decided on 18 and 12, and went with MDF for the base layer and veenered ply for the top racetrack layer.

Sure when its started stick a few pics up

zuutroy

The way I have it thought out, I will have some of the wood showing, between the rail and the felt I intend have about 8" of bare wood that I'll coat with clear varnish or something, thats why i wanted decent stuff. I suppose the base sheet could've been cheaper stuff but its done now. I heard MDF is kinda needley to work with anyway...

Mellor

MDF is probably easier to work with. Depending on tools used,
as for the rail, A good looking top sheet is a good thing here, but a cheaper sheet of ply with a veener on one side would look better than good quailty sheet of ply, far better. The quaility and price of ply is based on strength and properties of the sheet, anyway it doesn't matter now, you have the stuff.

Best advice I can think of is make sure you are 100% happy with your design BEFORE you start, alot of people who builf poker tables, are unhappy with certain features or would do it different a second time (they often do).
Are you sure you want an 8inch rail? Thats pretty wide, find a poker table forum and look at the pics noting the size of the rail.

ZZR1100

try this site with pics / step by step.
there are loads of other sites showing how to build a poker table / just do a search
http://pvaughan.smugmug.com/gallery/1117892#71409515

zuutroy

This is the design I'm working to. You're right mellor, it's only a 5" gap between the felt and the rail.

pokerkingsni

http://www.homepokertourney.com/tables_build.htm

http://www.poker.com/building-a-poker-table.htm

http://www.poker.com/building-a-poker-table.htm very good guide

zuutroy

I'm using the 3rd table in the first link as my template...I dont really like the poker.com one.
I cut the two pieces of wood at the weekend. Not really delighted with the cuts, but they'll be covered by the rail anyway. Next on the list is to cut the centre portion which will be covered in felt. Have to get it dead on as it's visible. There's a guy on ebay that sells the rail padding and cover, and the felt and underlay in a package for about $80 so I think I'll go with him rather than trying to track them down indiviually.

pokerkingsni

I'd find the felt yourself and get a look before you buy. The felt i get is about €50 for one table. You're better getting the good stuff.

Mellor

zuutroy wrote: »

This is the design I'm working to. You're right mellor, it's only a 5" gap between the felt and the rail.

I like that one, 5" rail is fine. Sizing of elements is very imp imo. As is sticking to standard sizes. I've a decent bit of exp with buiding materials so i'm decent enough at this. I really have to start my table though.

Are you sticking with the above colours, or doing your own scheme?

zuutroy

I think mine will have a slightly darker finish to the wood, and blue felt...

Here's the ebay kit thing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Poker-Table-Vinyl-Foam-Fabric-Combo-Kit_W0QQitemZ220174952654QQihZ012QQcategoryZ35749QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Even if the felt isn't of great quality it would be easy enough to replace if it wears out...

pokerkingsni

You're right, that guide is better. I'm gonna use it, hopefully be finished in a couple of weeks. I'll post pics up as well as i go.

Good luck.

CHD

where could you get foldable legs for this?

zuutroy

There's plenty of options....Ikea (no good in ROI I suppose), ebay, tablelegsonline.com. Haven't decided yet....would like to get them locally as shipping from the US would prbably cost a fair whack.

CelticPhantom

zuutroy wrote: »

There's plenty of options....Ikea (no good in ROI I suppose), ebay, tablelegsonline.com. Haven't decided yet....would like to get them locally as shipping from the US would prbably cost a fair whack.

Try http://www.casinoshop.ie. I ordered chips and got them within 24 hours.

zuutroy

I don't think they sell folding legs though.....






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plus locally for me is here!

pokerkingsni

The casino shop fella said he's gettin the folding legs in early Jan i think. There's a thread about it somewhere. B&Q someone said as well, tho they might not be folding. If you can find a snooker/pool table supplier near to you they will probably have folding legs for about €60. Or you can just use your dining table and stick it on there!

mcaul

B&Q - and other places such as noyeks have screw in table legs.

You attach the plate to the table and simply screw the legs in / out when needed.

Logie-1

Don't go for the wooden rail, It can be very noisy with players shuffling their chips on it. We made one and are now going to cover the rail with a different color of felt. It can also be difficult for some players to lift their cards of the wood if they have short nails. Try snooker table manufactures for the felt, they normally have different colors and can sometimes have good second hand stuff.

pokerkingsni

Logie-1 wrote: »

Don't go for the wooden rail, It can be very noisy with players shuffling their chips on it. We made one and are now going to cover the rail with a different color of felt. It can also be difficult for some players to lift their cards of the wood if they have short nails. Try snooker table manufactures for the felt, they normally have different colors and can sometimes have good second hand stuff.

Is it really that bad?

Logie-1

pokerkingsni wrote: »

Is it really that bad?

To be honest not all of the players have complained but the ones who don't are usually drunk(lol). But yes, it is a pain in the ass especially when the cards are running bad or after a bad beat and the fxxxers are doing it for badness.

zuutroy

Here's a question about fixing the wood sheets together: The guide I'm following recommends doing this with t-nuts. I'm just wondering would it be ok to just screw the pieces of wood together?

pokerkingsni

For wood on wood use wood glue. You get it from any DIY shop. Nothing better.

pokerkingsni

zuutroy wrote: »

Here's a question about fixing the wood sheets together: The guide I'm following recommends doing this with t-nuts. I'm just wondering would it be ok to just screw the pieces of wood together?

But if you mean fixing the rail to the table when its all finished then use screws.

zuutroy

yeah thats what I meant, and also affixing the centre felted piece, race-track and baseboard together.

pokerkingsni

When you're fixing wood to wood use wood glue. When you're fixing the rail to the felted bit use wood screws. Make sure if you're doin a table top make sure the screws are flush to the bottom so as not to scrape. Also a good idea is to use a cover for the bottom of the table. You know the stuff that is under sofas an all, the black stuff, **** knows wot its called. Just adds a nice finish to it.

Mellor

pokerkingsni wrote: »

When you're fixing wood to wood use wood glue. When you're fixing the rail to the felted bit use wood screws.

For a DIY project I wouldn't recommend glueing large sheets together. The sheets may not be perfectly flat to get a perfect bond, and i imagine that you don't have any large clamps or presses to do it to a top standard.

Glue and screw all pieces together. Countersink all holes. The screws will pull the pieces tight together and hold it while the wood glue dries. This is the best way as it has the advantages of each. In the design I drew the only connection that was different was the felted piece. I want to have a non permanant fixing to allow for removal to change felt etc

pokerkingsni

Its not big sheets, its just the handrail, which works out at about 2 inches so the glue is best. If you dont have clamps, you can set weights on the wood and leave it. The handrail doesn't need screws, just glue, which holds it perfectly together.

Mellor

Glue will hold it, but using screws together with glue will hold it better.
Weights are not a good enough sub for clamps, the piece might move and the piece sets in the wrong place.

pokerkingsni wrote: »

Its not big sheets,

If you look back at the original question

zuutroy wrote: »

Here's a question about fixing the wood sheets together: The guide I'm following recommends doing this with t-nuts. I'm just wondering would it be ok to just screw the pieces of wood together?

pokerkingsni wrote:

its just the handrail, which works out at about 2 inches so the glue is best. If you dont have clamps, you can set weights on the wood and leave it. The handrail doesn't need screws, just glue, which holds it perfectly together.

Here you say glue for the rail but before you said screws for the rail

pokerkingsni wrote: »

But if you mean fixing the rail to the table when its all finished then use screws.

Anyway, glue can work, but it can also go wrong if you are not careful. But there is no reason not to use screws AND glue. And depending on the design certain junctions would not work with glue. For record, on my table, some junctions are glued, some are screwed, and some (most) are glued and screwed

mcaul

Velcro is also a great item to use for sticking the felted wood to the base wood. Much easier to change the top then.

Gillybean72

Maybe take the sheets to a joinery and get them to plane them before you glue the boards together. Get a couple of sets of G-clamps, a good wood glue bought from a joinery fixings store and leave for over 24hrs. You shouldnt really need extra screws if you use the right wood glue. But you do get some good screws to help pull the boards together, but as I said. if done right, you dont need them.

zuutroy

Finished the cuts today. Very happy with them. Everything fits together very nicely Just have to get my upholstery and cup holders and I'm away...Will post some pics of the cuts when I get time....

pokerkingsni

Mellor wrote: »

Glue will hold it, but using screws together with glue will hold it better.
Weights are not a good enough sub for clamps, the piece might move and the piece sets in the wrong place.


If you look back at the original question



Here you say glue for the rail but before you said screws for the rail


Anyway, glue can work, but it can also go wrong if you are not careful. But there is no reason not to use screws AND glue. And depending on the design certain junctions would not work with glue. For record, on my table, some junctions are glued, some are screwed, and some (most) are glued and screwed

Just to clear this up. I said when attaching the 2 bits of the handrail together just use wood glue. When attaching the finished handrail to the finished table use screws. Worked ok for the table i made.

zuutroy

zuutroy wrote: »

I think mine will have a slightly darker finish to the wood, and blue felt...

Here's the ebay kit thing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Poker-Table-Vinyl-Foam-Fabric-Combo-Kit_W0QQitemZ220174952654QQihZ012QQcategoryZ35749QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Even if the felt isn't of great quality it would be easy enough to replace if it wears out...

Damn...its gonna cost $100 to ship...Anyone know where the hell I can get 1" closed cell high density foam in Europe?!

pokerkingsni

zuutroy wrote: »

Damn...its gonna cost $100 to ship...Anyone know where the hell I can get 1" closed cell high density foam in Europe?!

In your local furniture shop, upholsterer etc. its not hard to buy. And it's cheap. Plus they'll have the vinyl too. You should also go to the upholsterer and get a price for him to cover the rail himself if you can't do it. Guy i know does it all in for about €70 or £50, which works out ok considering i haven't a clue about upholstery!

zuutroy

Finally got around to ordering all the fabric and foam today from the US. Had to pay $125 to ship it in the end which is quite sickening given the stuff only cost $140.
Went for this cloth....with black vinyl for the armrests.

30something

Is it odd that I get an all-over warm feeling reading this DIY thread?

ditpoker

30something wrote: »

Is it odd that I get an all-over warm feeling reading this DIY thread?

... yes.

zuutroy

Wood cut and 1 coat varnish...awaiting more coats and upholstering...Slowly getting there!

whiteshadow

I have some snookertable felt left over from my pokertable project if you want it.
Im not sure of the dimensions but i'll measure tonight and it's yours if you want it

zuutroy

Hey, thanks for the offer, but I have stuff on order from the States which should be here this week.

zuutroy

Got all the materials except the rail vinyl today...Heres a few pics of my work from today...havent played a hand all day because of it!

zuutroy

Wahey finished!....Here's a couple of snaps of the final product....





Already got some degens that don't know when to step away from the table

Tinytony

Fair play. Lovely job.

dannydiamond

Looks sweet,congrats!

DONK!

nice work!!

Get In There

Looks great... Fair play to ya..