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DIY Oil + Plugs + Brake Pads etc. etc.

  • 12-03-2007 4:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,929 ✭✭✭


    Am tired of the hassle of trying to get the basics done, losing a lunch break in traffic while trying to get oil changed & can't go near a mechanic on a Sat. afternoon with all the Q.'s

    - Was told recently by a mech. re. front brake pads to drop the motor in on Wed. and he might have it for Fri. ???


    I want to buy in the req'd tools and find out how to do all this myself [basics only no timing belts or clutch replacements :)]

    Anyone recommend what essential kit I'd need to buy in and where to source this at a reasonable price ? Halfords seem to stock most bits and pieces - but seem to charge quite a lot.

    Shopping list at the moment is:

    1 X Hydraulic Jack
    2 X 2 Tonne Axle Stands
    * Ramp idea scrapped in favour of stands
    1 X Brake caliper wind-back tool
    1 X Oil Filter removal tool
    * Band type
    1 X Decent Socket set - inc. a few extension bits and a Spark plug tool

    + Courtesy of wise boards.ie' grease monkeys
    1 X Haynes Manual
    1 X Inspection Lamp
    1 X double-sided spark plug spanner
    1 X Tube of Copper Grease
    Disposable vinyl/latex gloves
    Tub of Swarfega
    Decent set of Spanners
    Funnels
    Good set of Allen Keys
    Hoard any large containers for old oil
    * Locate your local recycling centre.
    Pry bar for levering/laying down the law.
    Engineers hammer and a set of parallel punches
    N.B. Nephew/misc. child to hold things in place/Run and get forgotten tools




    - Can anyone comment on above and add anything I haven't thought off? + Recommend where they can be gotten cheaply ? - (am in Limerick for any regional type suggestions.....!)


«1

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 343 ✭✭kaizersoze123


    Add in 1 x Haynes manual


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,393 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    Add in 1 x Haynes manual

    get it in Halfords on Tipperary Road

    have a friend/kid/other sperson there to help its always nice to be able to go "Here hold this while i tighten it" sort of thing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,570 ✭✭✭rebel.ranter


    What I would say about tools is try to avoid cheap tools. You will only end up breaking them, and they normally go at the most inopportune moments.

    I would get a set of spanners, or at least buy a 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 17mm, 19mm ones anyway. The 17/19 are handy for changing pads on most cars.
    I just got a set of ratchet spanners a few months ago & I don't know why I didn't get them sooner, they are the business for loosening stuff where there is not that much room to manouvre.

    A big screw driver or a pry bar is also useful for pushing back the brake pistons to fit in the new pads.

    Oh just an addition about the cheap tools. It can hurt when they break too!!! Think grazed knuckles etc!!!


  • Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,183 Mod ✭✭✭✭MarkR


    I picked up my trolley jack and axle stands in aldi, think they had some two weeks ago (the stands) but probably well gone by now!

    Limerick brakes off mulgrave street is very good for pricing, i'm sure they'd have everything except for maybe the socket set.

    For the socket set (hmm.. I got mine in lidl - seein a pattern? :D) You could try B&Q and maybe halfords (think halfords may be prices, but they're in the same business park so may as well check out both)

    Seeing as I have stands, trolley jack and a socket set, and work in limerick if you want a loan.. (note : will need first born son as collateral)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I also have a good Oil bucket, a funnel, some rags, a bag of sawdust for spillages, a magnetic pickup tool for when the drain plug drops into the hot oil.
    1 box of single use Rubber gloves.
    Ramps are better than axle stands although axle stands are handy for changing brake pads.
    Brake pad wind back tool? a 6" G -Cramp will do that and clamp things as well.
    An engineers hammer and a set of parallel punches,
    1 tube of copper grease for the back of the brake pads to stop squealing.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    As has been said above, don't skimp on tools. Buy good quality. Now that doesn't mean you need a full set of Facom or Snap-on's but avoid crap like Black Spur etc etc.

    Unless you know what your at, don't mess around with the braking system. Very serious consequence's if not done right !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,513 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    Don't forget a funnel for pouring in the oil and some sort of tray/container to catch the old oil. When you buy oil, keep the container and pour the old oil into it - handly for bringing old oil for recycling. And don't forget to replace the sump plug washer at each oil change

    As regards oil filter removal tools - many of these are crap. I believe the best ones are those that use a strap. Hopefully you will be able to remove the old filter by hand and won't need to resort to a tool. If you can't remove the filter by hand don't do what some do and hammer a screwdriver through it. Becasue if the filter still won't come off you won't be able to drive the car with a holed filter. Better to leave the old filter on and undamaged and think about what to do next.

    As for sockets etc. - Halfords sockets are more than good enough for most DIY car maintenance. The sockets I use were got in LIDL and are grand.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 670 ✭✭✭C.D.


    Buy axle stands- much better if you need your wheels off (for whatever reason)

    Other things I find useful- boilersuit (OTT unless you work on cars regulary) and a decent set of work gloves- trying to get dirty oil off hands/clothes can be unpleasant.

    try http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/files/home1.asp best retail place in Ireland for industrial tools etc.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 294 ✭✭$Leon$


    BrianD3 wrote:
    If you can't remove the filter by hand don't do what some do and hammer a screwdriver through it. Becasue if the filter still won't come off you won't be able to drive the car with a holed filter. Better to leave the old filter on and undamaged and think about what to do next.

    Great advice. Spend about an hour and a half trying to get it off. Eventually it came off.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,686 ✭✭✭JHMEG


    As said the good oil filter wrenches are the ones with straps/bands. These can be gotten very cheaply in some places, but are very dear in Halfords. Stay away from chain type wrenches.

    My cheap 3/8" socket set which I got in Woodies for about €24 is still going strong. The sockets are hex which means they won't round the corners on bolts, and the ratchet has survived having a 5' extension bar put on it to get off a really stubborn nut. I actually don't think my Draper 4-times-the-price 1/2" set is as good..


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,943 ✭✭✭smcgiff


    what kind of car do you currently have?

    The SAAB 93 has a screw off filter. All you need is a 32 mm socket.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 667 ✭✭✭Altreab


    MarkR wrote:
    Seeing as I have stands, trolley jack and a socket set, and work in limerick if you want a loan.. (note : will need first born son as collateral)

    You better hope its not a grumpy Teenager :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    CJhaughey wrote:
    Brake pad wind back tool? a 6" G -Cramp will do that and clamp things as well.
    Thats what I use and I picked up a couple of sets in Lidl a few months ago for less than a fiver


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Rowley Birkin QC


    Those chain oil filter removal tools are a disaster, end up busting all your knuckles, like this idiot I know! ;-)

    And remember oil filters go on hand tight and with a sup of oil in them and smeared on the "o" ring.

    Like a previous post said, start out with small things like changing air filters, dont dive straight into something like bleeding brakes or replacing discs.

    Most important of all, when your work is done, ring a garage, get a quote and bask in the warming shiny glow of how much money you saved DIYing it!!


  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 41,219 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Don't most calipers have allen bolts holding them onto the strut?

    I would recommend getting a box of latex gloves and a tub of swarfega to get the crud off your arms.

    In all my years working on cars I still haven't got a funnel - I still use the cut off tops of ballygowan bottles! (Its the Cavan half in me coming out!)
    Everything else has been said I think.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Rowley Birkin QC


    kbannon wrote:

    In all my years working on cars I still haven't got a funnel - I still use the cut off tops of ballygowan bottles! (Its the Cavan half in me coming out!)

    Same as. Funnels get lost, Ballygowan bottles are everywhere!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    kbannon wrote:
    Don't most calipers have allen bolts holding them onto the strut?
    and its a 7mm one which are like hens teeth


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,034 ✭✭✭Mc-BigE


    don't forget a portable light for under the car, and not a torch light.
    Tip, try to change the oil when warm, instead of hot, but never cold, as warm oil is thinner and will flow (including crap) better out of the engine.

    use good oil (depends on your car ,petrol,diesel, age) and the right oil for the car, some modern diesels use longlife fully synethic oils which are very expensive. (can be 50euro for 4.5L :eek: and most cars need more than 4.5L so the oils could be close to 100euro on its own!)

    don't forget to tuck in your sleeve of your shirt while your removing the sump nut:eek: Oil goes everywhere!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,173 ✭✭✭overdriver


    And another one joins the brotherhood!!! I taught the girlfriend to service her car recently. When it got to the air filter, she honestly coudn't believe how simple it was. "You're kidding me?" she says. "What was I paying for a service for???".

    You'll never look back. I bought a full set of allen keys, metric and imperial a few years back. they're a half-decent set, and didn't cost the earth, about 40 quid, I think. They were a great buy. There is also a clever little oil drain thing you can get which has a bung a screwtop lid on it, so you can bring THAT straight to the recycling place.

    Allrooms has a set of funnels for silly money too. If you keep one for clean oil, one for dirty, that's an idea. Keep some cardboard for lying on the ground when it's wet or cold, and I keep a bag of sand you use on patios for oil spillages, though I may switch to sawdust. My dad's a carpenter!

    Buy a decent double-sided spark plug spanner, as you won't always have the same car. The toolshop across teh road from McQuillan's in Capel Street had 2 tonne hydraulic jacks for 15 quid at one time. It's never let me down.

    Remember you have the best tool of all right here - the brains of numerous boardsies to pick if you get in trouble!

    Good luck!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,570 ✭✭✭rebel.ranter


    overdriver wrote:
    And another one joins the brotherhood!!! I taught the girlfriend to service her car recently.

    How did you get away with that? Brave man!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    overdriver wrote:
    I taught the girlfriend to service her car recently.

    Yep, My taught my girlfriend too, she has a '96 323f that she loves to bits. Any time I service it, she wants to help, changing oil or plugs etc.
    :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,929 ✭✭✭Raiser


    Have added in all those suggestions to the original shopping list folks - thanks for all the input.

    - Haynes manual was forgotton about in yesterdays post - Haynes official statement is that there is not enough demand for my particular model/year ie. 2000 Honda Accord

    * Did get the Accord Electronic Service Manual (ESM)/Workshop manual on CD via Boards.ie's resident Honda Nut which is pretty comprehensive - Thanks again JHMEG ;)

    Next step is to start sourcing all this kit as cheaply as possible (I mean buying quality stuff at a good price not buying crap BTW) - Seems to me that Halfords is last resort territory as they are very pricey.....

    - Limerick Brakes near the Horse and Hound Pub are always being recommend around here so will start there

    * P.S. MarkR I was going to take you up on your offer re. borrowing kit - but it seems I need my first born son as a go-fer :D


    * EDIT - Have just remembered - am gutted to have missed the car stuff in Aldi - this is the second time in about 6 months, their stuff seems to be German high quality and dirt cheap - somebody post if ye know when its due back !!!!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,513 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    When you do servicing yourself it really hits home how much Dublin main dealers are charging for such trivial work. I was in Liffey Valley Renault recently buying some parts and they have fixed servicing prices posted up in the service reception. Now at least they are being transparent about their prices but they are dear

    Minor service for a Laguna (this is basically an oil and filter change) - 208 euro
    Full service for a Laguna (oil, filter, plugs, air filter, pollen filter) - 392 euro
    Front brake pad change - 162 euro
    If you need a couple of wipers replaced then add the guts of another 50 quid to the service prices.

    Note: I believe it's semi synth oil that they use and it only contributes around 25-30 quid to the above bills. Plugs that they use are also cheap So you have to question what exactly are you paying for here.

    The prices for the Clio and Megane are a little but not much cheaper. So don't think that by buying a smaller car you'll get away with significantly cheaper servicing. Prices for Espace and Vel satis are a little dearer - IIRC it's around 410 quid for a full service on an Espace.

    If you want to get a courtesy car while yours is in for a service that's another 35 quid!

    From what I hear, Dublin VW dealers are even worse. And I shudder to think what BMW and Mercedes dealers charge!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,467 ✭✭✭bushy...


    There is a chain type oil filter tool , its a loop of chain attached to a socket so your knuckles can be a safe distance away. If you don't have swarfega etc the orange coloured lynx exfoliating stuff is probably even better.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,686 ✭✭✭JHMEG


    Raiser wrote:
    * Did get the Accord Electronic Service Manual (ESM)/Workshop manual on CD via Boards.ie's resident Honda Nut which is pretty comprehensive - Thanks again JHMEG ;)

    :)

    BTW, allen keys are not required at all, as there are no allen bolts etc on the car. All regular hex bolts and nuts.

    You won't need to take a caliper off to change pads. Just take out the bottom bolt and swing the front part up. Might need to tap it to persuade it. Keep a close eye on the little slider rubber boots (like a small black rubber accordian!). You must not damage these!

    Front pistons can be pushed in with a G-clamp. Rear have to be twisted, but if you're stuck something like a big flat file will do it. Keep an eye on your brake fluid resevoir when pushing in pistons... if it over flows the brake fluid will damage paintwork.

    The oil filter is at the back of the engine. You need to get under the car (supported by a jack stand) and you will need a strap type wrench to get it off due to the exhaust etc being somewhat in your way. There isn't enough room to manoeuvre a chain type wrench.

    Spark plugs are fairly recessed. Make sure what ever socket set you get that you get an 8" extension. Put plugs in by hand, only do the final tightening using the ratchet. Hand tight, then another half turn. Or buy yourself a torque wrench, tho for regular servicing it's not really necessary.

    Oh, and price the parts at a Honda dealer. Most "consumables" aren't much dearer (if any) than 3rd patry parts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,513 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    JHMEG wrote:
    Spark plugs are fairly recessed. Make sure what ever socket set you get that you get an 8" extension. Put plugs in by hand, only do the final tightening using the ratchet. Hand tight, then another half turn. Or buy yourself a torque wrench, tho for regular servicing it's not really necessary.
    Also look for a deep hex socket with a rubber/plastic inset in it. This will grip the top of spark plug and allow it to be lifted in and out easily. As JHMEG says start the plug tightening by hand. I normally just use turn the extension and socket without the handle then use the handle at the end. Am never sure how tight to put in spark plugs. I think a half turn after hand tightening may not be enough. Depends on how long a handle you use I suppose. I use a short one.

    And another thing: before you start removing plugs hoover out the plug wells to remove any debris. You don't want metallic debris falling into the hole when you remove the plug. Also, soaking the old plugs overnight in WD40 before removal may make things run smoother. Some people advise putting a little copper grease on the threads of the new plugs, some say use oil or WD40, other say nothing is needed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,044 ✭✭✭Wossack


    Id say dont put anything on the threads, can make it easier to screw the plugs in, which can ruin the feel of how tight you're going (you usually cant see the split washer) - an over tightened sparkplug is lethal


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,173 ✭✭✭overdriver


    How did you get away with that? Brave man!

    Clever man, y'mean. Less workand less expense for me in the long run. Before this, she thought there must be more to it, and gave it to a garage.

    The first puncture she got, I drove out to her and stood over her while I talked her through changing it herself. This jeep pulls over, a bloke gets out rolling up his sleeves and says " Why aren't you helping her". I said " Because I might not be here next time.". He laughed " That's the best thing I ever seen!" and watched her with me. He said the next time his wife called him with a flat he'd do the same.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,991 ✭✭✭el tel


    Yep, My taught my girlfriend too, she has a '96 323f that she loves to bits. Any time I service it, she wants to help, changing oil or plugs etc.
    :cool:

    Me too, she's an '86 36F...

    mechanic.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    el tel wrote:
    Me too, she's an '86 36F...

    mechanic.jpg



    :D:D:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭OldmanMondeo


    el tel wrote:
    Me too, she's an '86 36F...

    mechanic.jpg


    No need for a Jack Stand there then....


  • Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,183 Mod ✭✭✭✭MarkR


    I'll post up in the motors section if I see the stands / jack again soon. In the meantime you can borrow the stands / jack / sockets if you'd like. After reading this I think I need to service the car again, but send me a pm if you want to borrow them for a weekend. Get your hands dirty before forking out too much. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,929 ✭✭✭Raiser


    Hey MarkR - thanks for your very decent and generous offer - much appreciated :D

    - I think I'm going to pick up the bare essentials before the weekend though and maybe a few other bits and pieces along the way.

    Besides - if your missus discovered that you were letting odd folks from the Internet rifle throguh the contents of your shed on Sat. mornings she'd prob. disown you :eek: !!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,451 ✭✭✭blastman


    Lots of good advice here lads, can I just add (based on Saturday's experiences) that changing your oil when it's any way windy is officially a Very Bad Idea. :D

    - Trolley jack from Lidl.
    - Axle stands from Halfrauds (they were on offer at the time though, so the price was OK)
    - Small spanner set from H's
    - Socket set from H'd (had to buy the additional long spark plug socket separately though, think I got it in McQuillans)
    - Oil filter wrench is a kind of forceps thing, but works well, got it in H's or McQ's, can't remember.
    - Oil catch can from H's for easy transport to the dump (the stuff that doesn't end up on the road anyway!).
    - Assorted other bits and pieces from Lidl and H's built up over the last couple of years.

    My oil filter actually is accessible from the top of the engine, and I've fitted a sump plug that you don't need to remove to drain the oil, so future oil changes should be stress-free, wind permitting.


  • Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,183 Mod ✭✭✭✭MarkR


    Actually, where do you recycle oil? Is it your local garage or motor factors or what? I still have a couple of bottles of old oil in my shed I think!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,097 ✭✭✭Darragh29


    Don't forget the bag of rags and WD40!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭macnab


    I bought one of those oil sucker things. You just pump it up to create a vaacum and put the pipe into the dipstick hole. It sucks the oil out of the engine. €90 in a motor factors. I love it, I do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,044 ✭✭✭Wossack


    macnab wrote:
    I bought one of those oil sucker things. You just pump it up to create a vaacum and put the pipe into the dipstick hole. It sucks the oil out of the engine. €90 in a motor factors. I love it, I do.

    Only thing is it doesnt get all the junk and crud down the very bottom of the sump... worthwhile taking the sump plug out too, might a be magnetic one and should be cleaned


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,570 ✭✭✭rebel.ranter


    The council recycling facilities usually have a section for batteries and waste oil.
    I bought 2 magnetic sump plugs for the cars. Planning on putting them in the next service. Are they any good?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 933 ✭✭✭Furp


    I just changed my own oil for the first time, I have done other work on the car before spark plugs, filters, even the brake pads. But I was always apprehensive about changing oil knowing that I would have to be underneath the car and the awkwardness of getting the oil filter off.

    I am so glad that I did it now though, cost of oil, filter, air filter, spark plugs was €52 euro and about an 1.5 hours to change them all. Quote from gargae to do the same service on an 8 year old primera was €235.

    Next on my list to do is new brakes discs. And I also need a new clutch but I will not be doing that myself.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭gyppo


    Furp wrote: »
    I just changed my own oil for the first time, I have done other work on the car before spark plugs, filters, even the brake pads. But I was always apprehensive about changing oil knowing that I would have to be underneath the car and the awkwardness of getting the oil filter off.

    I am so glad that I did it now though, cost of oil, filter, air filter, spark plugs was €52 euro and about an 1.5 hours to change them all. Quote from gargae to do the same service on an 8 year old primera was €235.

    Next on my list to do is new brakes discs. And I also need a new clutch but I will not be doing that myself.

    Just be aware that some cars need a special tool which simultaneously compresses and screws back the piston in rear brake calipers.

    Front calipers just need to be compressed back - others mentioned the quick release cramps from aldi - these are perfect for the job. Also, be careful compressing any pistons back - take it nice and slow or you risk damaging the brake master seal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,097 ✭✭✭Darragh29


    Raiser wrote: »
    Am tired of the hassle of trying to get the basics done, losing a lunch break in traffic while trying to get oil changed & can't go near a mechanic on a Sat. afternoon with all the Q.'s

    - Was told recently by a mech. re. front brake pads to drop the motor in on Wed. and he might have it for Fri. ???


    I want to buy in the req'd tools and find out how to do all this myself [basics only no timing belts or clutch replacements :)]

    Anyone recommend what essential kit I'd need to buy in and where to source this at a reasonable price ? Halfords seem to stock most bits and pieces - but seem to charge quite a lot.

    Shopping list at the moment is:

    1 X Hydraulic Jack
    2 X 2 Tonne Axle Stands
    * Ramp idea scrapped in favour of stands
    1 X Brake caliper wind-back tool
    1 X Oil Filter removal tool
    * Band type
    1 X Decent Socket set - inc. a few extension bits and a Spark plug tool

    + Courtesy of wise boards.ie' grease monkeys
    1 X Haynes Manual
    1 X Inspection Lamp
    1 X double-sided spark plug spanner
    1 X Tube of Copper Grease
    Disposable vinyl/latex gloves
    Tub of Swarfega
    Decent set of Spanners
    Funnels
    Good set of Allen Keys
    Hoard any large containers for old oil
    * Locate your local recycling centre.
    Pry bar for levering/laying down the law.
    Engineers hammer and a set of parallel punches
    N.B. Nephew/misc. child to hold things in place/Run and get forgotten tools




    - Can anyone comment on above and add anything I haven't thought off? + Recommend where they can be gotten cheaply ? - (am in Limerick for any regional type suggestions.....!)

    Can't believe nobody told you to get a bag of rags and a few cans of WD40, AKA supersauce!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,248 ✭✭✭Plug


    Darragh29 wrote: »
    Can't believe nobody told you to get a bag of rags and a few cans of WD40, AKA supersauce!
    .........or brake cleaner, god i love the smell of it in the morning!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    BrianD3 wrote: »
    As regards oil filter removal tools - many of these are crap. I believe the best ones are those that use a strap. Hopefully you will be able to remove the old filter by hand and won't need to resort to a tool. If you can't remove the filter by hand don't do what some do and hammer a screwdriver through it. Becasue if the filter still won't come off you won't be able to drive the car with a holed filter. Better to leave the old filter on and undamaged and think about what to do next.

    Oil filters can be great fun lol,
    http://vagdrivers.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=20299

    As for tools, alot of cheap bits and pieces can be picked up in Lidl or Aldi, they seem to do the job. You don't want to go spending 100's, for rare use it'll defeat the purpose.Haynes manuals are great, if everything goes right. They tell you to take off something, but they don't help you if something goes wrong. I wouldn't rely on them, just as a guide.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,786 ✭✭✭slimjimmc


    Get yourself
    - a pair of vice-grips, THE essential tool.
    - pointy-nosed pliers, useful for pulling out R-pins.
    - something comfortable to kneel on, some flat polystyrene foam packing is ideal.
    - safety googles keep all the crap and grit out of your eyes while you're rooting around underneath on your back.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,513 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    yep, if you hammer a screwdriver through the filter and it fails to come off on the first attempt you've got a headache. Filter now has holes in it so car can't be driven and any further hammering will only mangle and weaken the filter body even more. Filter removal tools are not designed to go onto mangled filters so you're probably looking at tapping the inner ring of the filter with a chisel to get it turning

    Oil filters always seem to require more effort to take off than they did to put on. Having said that I have a pretty strong grip (from weight lifting) and don't need to use tools to remove oil filters anymore. Anyone with reasoanble grip should be able to do the same. Tip: if you rub lifting or climbing chalk on your hands it will give you a great grip on the filter and prevents slippage from sweaty hands etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    BrianD3 wrote: »
    Oil filters always seem to require more effort to take off than they did to put on. Having said that I have a pretty strong grip (from weight lifting) and don't need to use tools to remove oil filters anymore. Anyone with reasoanble grip should be able to do the same. Tip: if you rub lifting or climbing chalk on your hands it will give you a great grip on the filter and prevents slippage from sweaty hands etc.

    The ould chain does the job too haha:P


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 752 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn!


    BrianD3 wrote: »
    yep, if you hammer a screwdriver through the filter and it fails to come off on the first attempt you've got a headache. .

    Nissan gave me the wrong one the first time i ever did an oil and filter change. It threaded tight and never sealed. Turned over the engine for 2-3 seconds and still had oil warning then shut it off.

    Wondering what went wrong i went round the front of the car to see a stream of oil flowing from under the car.

    A large amount of bad language 4 old bath towls every scrap of newspaper in the house and a boat load of fairy liquid later a trip to halfrauds (Sunday) for more oil. Put the old filter back on (again sunday) filled it up and all went well. (changed the oil again and filter 2 weeks later)

    A friend of mine had a peugeot and had a simular problem. Wrong filter on a sunday and put a screwdriver through the one he took off. :D

    Lets just say i double check all part numbers now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    Edit:
    This is probably the smallest post here but I didn't notice it anywhere..

    Bungee cords;
    5452834.jpg

    these things are great for holding your calipers when changing disc brakes instead of straining the lines/ child holding them. Just wrap around your coils and hook em' on they're generally handy around the car for bits and pieces like that.. just my 2 cents


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