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Winter Resort Report thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,295 ✭✭✭ckeego


    1. Where and when you went.
    Les Deux Alpes, France. 9-16 Feb 2013, but have been fortunate to have been there numerous times in the last 10 years. Luckily, I used to live in France.

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    Board. Mixed family group of boarders and skiiers.

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.
    Brilliant on and off piste. Absolutely awesome snow conditions and there was 3 dumps of snow during the week. Visibility at times was hit and miss, particularly at high level. They have developed the Cretes area extensively so this has become the beginner plus area. It was a fabulous area before but has now become very crowded. Throughout the entire slopes there are bottlenecks that are quite dangerous. This week large groups just stop and spread across the slope. This makes it very difficult for boarders as there are some flattish areas that you really need to build up speed to avoid unclipping.

    The resort has recently been taken over by a new management company who have developed a new red run to the village (previously it was the choice of getting the lifts down or descending on a very narrow green or an icy Black) This is a lovely new run but is VERY flat at the end..Just either build up speed or go off piste!!

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.
    Intermediate

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    The Polar Bar as always was excellent. Very friendly staff, good drink at fair prices. The busiest spot by some margin last week. We watched the match at The Red Frog, which is another good pub. Smithy's was like a morgue the night we went in, but is usually hopping. Restaraunt wise, Crepes a Go go was superb and very reasonable...Complet opposite to Le Doume's in Venosc...2 words..STAY AWAY...

    This was the worst place I have had the displeasure of visiting on a ski trip yet. The service was dire (we waited 35 minutes for the first round of beer to arrive and 1 hr 15 for the food) Whilst the food (pizzas/pastas/salad) was ok, the prices were astounding. 10 euro for a beer (less than a pint) and the house wine was a Cotes du Rhone we had bought earlier in the week in Casino for 4 euro - cost 26 when the bill was presented.

    As one member of the party who had been to L2A before said, they are sailing close to killing the goose that laid the golden egg...We went to Mayrhofen last year and it was a lot cheaper.

    Les 2 Alpes used to be a cheap and cheerful resort but the prices have risen sharply in the last few years..The idea of 4.50 for a hot chocolate or a soft drink on the slopes is stretching it a bit..

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.
    Guaranteed snow because of the glacier's altitude at 3600m. They ski up there in the Summer and then go mountain biking for the rest of the day! It is a short trip to Alp d'Huez by car or bus and your 6 day ski pass gives you free access.

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.
    Surprisingly, the upper slopes were very quiet...Brilliant powder just off piste. The one gem of advice that I was given was to get to centre station (Jandri) and take those 2 lifts to the top. If you use Telegraphique off Cretes, you can face a lengthy wait to get the next 2 lifts up.There are literally only 2 cablecars on this run. Also, if you can bear the cold (-36 with wind chill last week!) get the chair lift at mid level rather than the Jandri Express..It is a lot quicker and you get a great run straight off the chair!!

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.
    Again, hard to believe, but we didn't meet one other Irish person and only 2 other Brit couples. One theory on this is that L2A are starting to price themselves out of the market a tad. Huge groups of Belgians (midterm) French and Dutch.

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.
    It was a 40th wedding anniversary trip for my parents (They were in Mayhrhofen on their honeymoon, unbeknowst to us when we booked it last year!!) and we really did have a fabulous trip this year. Great company, superb snow and despite it being such a vast resort, we always find out something new. Make an effort with a bit of French and you will find out just how nice the local people are, but like a lot of things these days, there may be a little bit of greed on some business' part starting to change things. The trip up and down to Lyon was twice as long as usual due to traffic, so if you can, travel outside of Sat to Sat if you are self booking. The prices in the local shops are very competitive for food, drink and groceries, but avoid buying any equipment..It is VERY expensive. I would also avoid using Aalborg sports for hire..2 hrs collecting equipment and 90 mins to drop it back. Very badly organised.

    Would I go back to L2A..Hell, yes! Despite the small grumbles, the positives FAR outweigh the negatives..Feel withdrawal symptoms just writing this!!
    Off to Northern Sweden in March so will report on Kiruna then. Enjoy Les deux Alpes those that go!


  • Registered Users Posts: 352 ✭✭steelbar


    1. Where and when you went.
    Meribel, The 3 Valleys, 24th Feb - 3rd March

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    Ski, with a few Boarders mixed in

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.
    Excellent, They received a dump (30cm) of snow the night before we arrived, had blue skies and amazing squeaky, dry snow that didn't deteriorate after lunch. The temp's did start creaping up near the end of the week, so it was getting a bit slushy/icy in spots, but nothing so be worried about.
    It was busy enough with the French holidays, but the resort is big enough to cope with it. Think the longest we q'd was 5 mins for a bubble,
    Didn't do any off piste, as i was skiing with an injured back.
    We went Sunday to Sunday, so our last day was a Saturday, which is an absolute pleasure, nice an quiet on the monntain.

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.
    Intermediate

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    We didnt eat out that much as we had a fully catered chalet, but as usual the prices where high in France. There was good craic in the Rond Pont for Apres, esp with the ski down to the Chaudanne after and the Meribar was a bit of fun. We had a look at the new Follie Douce, but it was a bit pretentious, so didnt bother staying. I think it would of been better suited to Courchevel, esp with all the rich Russians there.
    We did eat out one night in the new restaurant in Meribel Village, its behind the Lodge, and it was very poor, main courses came out cold.

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.
    Its so big and well connected, that even in the busy period, it can handle the numbers. We just missed the end of the World Cup Womens Downhill, which looked great, and didnt really affect may pistes

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.
    Not really, just lots of well groomed runs

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.
    Some Irish, Brits, and a lot of French

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.
    I love it over there, you have so much choice and you never get bored, have skied in France for the last 3 years,so wouldn't mind a change. But will defo go back at some stage


  • Registered Users Posts: 733 ✭✭✭sassyj


    1. Where and when you went.
    St. Anton 23rd Feb – 2nd March

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    Ski

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.

    Think it had snowed just before we arrived. Found most well looked after. Weather was cold at start of week, but then the sun came out, got a great ski tan!
    Came down a black at the end of one day that was a disaster, very mogully, think it was No. 10. Ended up coming down that black because the valley was closed. It reopened the next day, was in dreadful condition. Was easier coming down the black!

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.
    Nearly Intermediate?

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    Loads of variety for whatever you liked. Watched the rugby in Kandahar and there was live music afterwards. Went to the infamous Mosserwirt and Krazy Kanguruh. Crazy, but loads of fun. There is also a bar right beside KK called Taps, Thursdays there are mental. Was able to drop skis back to hotel before going up, so coming down the slope on your behind afterwards is a lot of fun, beware of drunk skiiers/snowboarders!

    Anthonys & Happy Valley Steakhouse (on top of each other).Great pizza in Anthonys. Dorfstube for a nice meal out.

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.

    Access to other areas for skiing - Found Rendl great, less busy than other areas. The Happy Valley is great for kids. There’s park there with jumps as well. Went to Stuben one day, and St. Christoph another. Really nice days skiing. Never got to Lech which loads of people recommended, the week just got away from us. Next time!

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.
    Would recommend the night tobogganing – was great fun. We got the Nassereinbahn up to top (Tues/Thurs 7.30 – 10.30pm) and came half way down to restaurant, had a meal and then did the rest of the track. Was very bumpy by the time we were coming down, all the more fun! You pay a €20 deposit for the toboggan, which you get back when you return it at the end. 2 people can fit on one. Cost of ticket to get up was €9 each as far as I remember.

    Got a great instructor on this holiday, huge improvement over the week. (Skischool Arlberg) Was quite nervous of reds before I went, wouldn’t be now and managed to come down 2 blacks on this holiday (albeit very badly ) but nerves were mostly gone. Also thought some of the blues are underrated compared to other resorts – would have been reds where I had skied before. Will definitely head to Kilternan before next year’s trip to get rid of the bad habits!

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.

    Some Irish, good few Brits/Dutch/Germans. Good mix, loads of fun.

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.

    Would definitely go again, here and Saalbach would be my favourite Austrian resorts. Be warned, it’s not cheap!
    I stayed in Nasserein, a great location. Hotel Goldenes Kreuz, about 150 metres from the Nasserinbahn, and not even a 10 minute walk into St. Anton. Ski hire, ski school all located at the Nasserinbahn also. The hotel is on the main road that leads into St. Anton.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,705 ✭✭✭MisterDrak


    1. Where and when you went.
    Zermatt, Switzerland - Sat 18 Jan - Sat 25 Jan 2014

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    Ski

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.
    Brilliant on both and off piste, it dumped snow 3 of the days we were there. Conditions were perfect.

    4. Are you beginner/intermediate/advanced.
    Complete Beginner, but have skied indoor in Dubai on 3 occasions. Started in ski school with private lessons for first half day. On the 6th day everything clicked into place. Turns, control, confidence etc... I would still class myself as a beginner. But I know understand why people have said about preferring a Ski as opposed to a Sun holiday.

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    Being Switzerland everything was expensive (really expensive) and given it was Zermatt doubly so. Our first day to arrive we went to McD's and 2 medium Big Mac meals were €24.5 (we did have 2 extra sauces)... luckily we were on half board in the hotel so that reduced the spend somewhat.

    On the last day we went to Chez Vrony (a Michelin 1 star place on the Sunnegga mountain). One of the top 5 best lunches ever, for food, ambiance, scenery, admittedly pricy at €170 for the two of us.

    Also "Daves Place" on the Schwarzsee Cable stop was nice. Live bands play during lunch and uninterrupted views of the Matterhorn.

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.
    The scenery is world class. Transport links (cable cars, lifts, snow trains) were varied and extremely efficient. The Matterhorn... Skiing on the Kline Matterhorn Glacier.

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.
    Well its a huge area with lots to explore.

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.
    Swiss, German, English mainly.

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.
    I would go again tomorrow. the walk from our hotel to bus, to Sunnegga, was about 1/2 a mile, and in boots a bit of a pain.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,935 ✭✭✭SuprSi


    1. Where and when you went.
    Mayrhofen, Austria - 25th Jan to 1st Feb

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    Snowboard

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.
    Brilliant on and off piste - we had at least a foot of fresh snow between Sunday and Monday and it made the slopes perfect. Loads of off-piste options available, to my delight!

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.
    Intermediate

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    Food-wise things are pretty good, and reasonable. The Pilz Bar at the Penkhen gondola does a good variety of food and has a decent atmosphere. However, there are a few black marks. The first is that smoking is allowed indoors - this is a major issue for me (and was for my mates as well) as I can't bloody stand smoking, especially when I'm trying to eat something. The second is the music. I will admit that I'm a bit of a music snob, but there's only so much German/Austrian dance music with some guy shouting German lyrics over it that a guy can take. It completely ruined things like the Ice Bar, one of the main apres ski venues. I found myself getting very annoyed with the lack of variety - ****e music, one track after the next. I haven't been anywhere else where the music has been so one-dimensional. The crazy thing is that the locals all love it, soI understand why it's done. It just bored the pants off me and whereas in Livigno last year I looked forward to going out after dinner, the two points above put me off and as a result I didn't have anywhere near as much fun.

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.
    The ski area is big and the lifts are excellent, though it was also the busiest resort we've been to in 5 years with some significanty queues. Also, you have to get a gondola which was incredibly busy both getting there and back (40 minutes on our first trip home!!) - something we hadn't experienced before and another black mark on the resort.

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.
    Blue run 7a from the top down to the Schneekar lift was lovely, especially with the fresh snow

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.
    Lots of Austrians/Germans, loads of Russians and then a smaller contingent of Irish/English/Scottish.

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.
    We wouldn't go again. Our group of 6 lads rated the resort about a 6. The slopes were good, and the hotel we stayed in was also good with brilliant sauna/steam facilities but the night life was very poor compared with any other resort. Our biggest complaints were smoking indoors, very busy gondola (and overly aggressive users) and absolutely shocking music in the apres ski. We were all disappointed but after having such a good time in Livigno last year, Mayrhofen was always going to struggle.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,139 ✭✭✭olaola


    1. Where and when you went.
    Westendorf 18th-25th Jan 2014

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    I didn't ski, as I was 7 months pregnant, but the gang all skied. I went to the tourist office and they had daily (free) activities for anyone who wasn't skiing. You just had to pay for any equipment rental (snow shoes/walking poles). I did a few hikes which were really enjoyable!

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.
    When we arrived it was green fields with a few white ribbons snaking down the mountain. By the time we left, loads of snow everywhere! But saying that, the lads were very impressed with how ski-able the pistes were despite the lack of snow. Anything under middlestation after lunch got quite slushy early in the week.

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.
    Intermediate

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    We had half board in the hotel, but we ate out one night - a fondue at a mountain hut 'Zieplhof' which was really fantastic. It was recommended by my hiking guide.

    The food in our hotel, Hotel Jakobwirt, was by far the best we've had in an Austrian resort. It was the usual Tyrolean style, but it was of very high quality. Reports from others said there were good places to eat in the village. The mountain alms were quite typical, great value and very tasty. In particular the Sonnalm at the middlestation was very good. Everything was very reasonable, no beers were over €3.50 and the non-alcoholic versions were very palatable.

    Apres ski was a bit quiet, and a lot of it was very Dutch-themed. I think my favourite was the Nagelhutte at the top of the babyslope.
    Gerry's just off the babyslope was exclusively Dutch, even all the music, the DJ and the staff were all from the Netherlands. Was a bit of craic, but when you go to Austria, you're kind of expecting the usual cheesy apres scene.

    We ended up at the Dorfer at the end of the baby slope (opposite the ski pass kasse) a few times. More out of convenience than anything else.
    Kibo bar was nice, and we went to the Village Pub a few times too. The bar in Hotel Post usually has a bit of buzz, there was a sing-song the night we went in. Campbell's bar (Ins Moment) under our hotel was the only non-smoking bar in town. It's a nice spot, quiet enough but nice for a cold beer & bit of banter. There's a BIZARRE bowling alley behind Hotel Jakobwirt. Worth a look. It's a time warp.

    I didn't personally make it to any of the nightclubs! But the lads said they were packed & you can find places to stay up until 4am if that's what you're looking for

    One thing that we all found overwhelming (not just me as the non-drinker!) was the smoke in all the bars. My only theory was that they were just smaller than most bars we've been in Austria. But it was often the reason why we left a bar, as it just got too much. Take a second jacket if you don't want your ski jacket to stink the next morning!

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.
    It's very reasonable, and it seems VERY family orientated. So if you were bringing your child for their early years it seems to be the place to go. The village is quite small, but it has everything you need really. Two supermarkets, bakery, pharmacy a few gift shops, cafes etc. So no matter where you are, you can walk to the chairlift at the baby slope & then ski over to the gondola if you're feeling lazy! It's near to airports, so you're about 2hrs (with traffic) from Munich, or less from Salzberg. You can get the train direct, BUT the station isn't really in the village. I'm not sure if it would be walkable with a large suitcase up the hill! So you might be better off getting the train to Worgl & then hopping on a bus which will leave you off smack bang in the village.

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.
    (this is from the lads) while it is connected to the Ski Welt, they felt on the edge, so it's a bit of a schlep to get to anywhere else. The Ki-West gondola was closed so the guys got a taxi to Kitzbuhel for a day. It's not that far and you could easily catch a bus or train. Red 7 in Brixen or blue 111 in Westendorf come highly recommended.

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.
    LOADS of Dutch, some Danish and a good spattering of Irish. The Irish tend to stay in the hotels, so if you're not in an apartment you'll probably be in the majority in your accommodation.

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.
    The locals are VERY friendly, everyone greets you with a 'Gruss Gott' - even the school kids walking to the bus! So there is a nice vibe around the village.
    Would we go again? Probably not, we did enjoy our holiday, and it's more of a case that there are resorts we prefer and would go back to those first. Saying that, I think we were the only first timers in our hotel. Everyone seems to come back every year and they all know each other, so that adds to the friendly atmosphere.
    We found the smoking overwhelming, it took away from our enjoyment of the bars. Wonder when Austria will get the finger out & ban it from pubs!


  • Registered Users Posts: 256 ✭✭sallymomo


    1. Where and when you went.
    Limone Piemonte, Italy – 2nd Feb to 9th Feb

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    Ski

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.
    Brilliant on and off piste – The first 3 days were tough on-piste due to the huge amounts of snow that did not stop falling. The sun came out on the 4th day and all the groomers must have been solar powered because they did a fantastic job J

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.
    Intermediate

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    Food-wise, the town is in a well renowned gastronomic region of Italy (aren’t they all??) so the ingredients no matter where you go, wine bars and restaurants alike, are top quality and great value. It really is hard to go wrong here food wise, whether it’s a pizza or 4 course meal. Honourable mentions to La Crubarsela, Maito & Diligenza
    Most of the Apres-ski is low key during the week with the Monaco crowd at the weekends swelling the numbers. During the week the busiest spot is the Irish Bar (I do avoid most of the time) but the younger crowds frequent here and while we were there 1 of the nights, the place was jammers, with lots of people dancing upright and upside down on the bar –took me back to Arinsal…Aside from that, plenty of options for quieter beers and amazing wine, La Cantinetta (Laura will make sure you have a great bottle of wine), Birreria d’la Puntsa (The owner Cristian is on Facebook, all the time I believe, super snowboarder – just don’t keep him late every night!), Caffé 37, Bar Paninoteca and the American Bar

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.
    If you would like to mix your ski holiday with great food & wine, this is the place to go. Also, if you want that feeling of having the slopes to yourself, mid week is a great time particularly at midday when the schools are all in having lunch. There are great views and photo ops, especially on the peaks at the border with France. It is a very relaxed place with very welcoming locals. The only time the snobbish ski element comes out to play is at the weekends when the Riviera crowds arrive – you can overcome this by spending a couple of days catching rays on the Cote D’azur, less than 2 hours away!

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.
    There is a restaurant called Lu Taz, just outside the town. The elderly gentleman will collect you in his minibus, drop you at the house where his lovely wife will be your hostess. There is no menu, you will eat what you are served which is all tasty and fresh. The old guy will appear later to serve your table also and of course drop you back later.
    For lunch, Ange Blanc in nearby Limonetto and Chalet Morel are two fine restaurants, better than you would get in most places on piste.

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.
    Lots of locals, some Irish/French/English with Russians at the weekends.

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.
    This is not the typical ski resort and is probably not ideal for beginners as the majority of slopes are red. However, it is a very laid back resort, even if you think the Italians are constantly shouting! There are still 80kms of varied slopes which suffice. The resort is close to both Turin and Nice airports, as AL fly directly into Nice, this is the Airport we use. Then train across the border to Ventimiglia, change to a train straight into Limone village.
    This has been my 5th year in a row, so yes, I would go back.
    As it is not a well-known resort, the local tourist board have incentives to attract people. Check out the website www.hotelskipass.com. We get our accommodation and skipass for €309 for 7 days, fine deal I am sure you agree. I feel like Fannymagee (not insulting you FM) now so I will stop!


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,027 ✭✭✭prunudo


    ]1. Where and when you went.
    Sauze d'Oulx, Italy – 2nd Feb to 9th Feb

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    7 of us, all Snowboarding

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.
    Amazing conditions both on and off piste. First couple of days is was lightly snowing all the time, maybe 5cm a day. Then on the Wednesday it hammered down about 20cm, Thursday was a glorious bluebird day and then Friday it dumped about another 30 again. Best snow conditions I've ever experience on holidays.

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.
    Intermediate

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    We were staying HB, so we didn't sample the restaurants in town but from what we saw they looked good. There's good choice on the mountain for lunch and they were reasonable priced.

    There are plenty of bars in the town, The Ghost (we enjoyed the vibe there), Paddy McGinty(the token irish bar, not everybodies cup of tea), The Mira bar (more of a trendy place), The derby bar, the cotton club and there's a few others too.

    Overall we found the après a bit tame compared to Mayrhofen but I suppose that's just Austria for you.

    Should also add that the price of beer was on average €4.50 for a large beer or pint.

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.
    If you like red runs and playing between the trees this is the resort for you. The short transfer is also a benefit.

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.
    Not exactly hidden but we found red29 diserted and the trees on each side provide endless fun.

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.
    Mainly English, Irish and Italians. A lot more locals at the weekend.

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.
    I went here with an open mind after reading some conflicting reviews but I have to say I was impressed. Now the conditions were amazing so maybe that glossing over any negetives but I would definitly return. I would also consider it for a DIY holiday or short break as it so easy to get to from Turin Airport.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭fannymagee


    Haha Sallymomo, only saw the end of your post just now!! Nowt wrong with that, lol!! ;-) Glad all went well, how is the leg now?

    Jvan great you got such great conditions, that's always the main thing!! :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 256 ✭✭sallymomo


    Thanks for asking...
    I tore the meniscus in my left knee - or to be specific;
    there is a tear involving the body and anterior horn of the lateral meniscus..
    anyway, have to see a knee specialist on Wednesday, could involve keyhole..

    In laymans terms, no more ski this season for me :-(


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭fannymagee


    sallymomo wrote: »
    Thanks for asking...
    I tore the meniscus in my left knee - or to be specific;
    there is a tear involving the body and anterior horn of the lateral meniscus..
    anyway, have to see a knee specialist on Wednesday, could involve keyhole..

    In laymans terms, no more ski this season for me :-(

    Ah nooo! Sugar!! God it really does happen so easily! Hopefully you'll get one of the good sports guys, we've a lot of really progressive knee surgeons here so hopefully you'll be back on track in no time. Bloody frustrating though...


  • Registered Users Posts: 256 ✭✭sallymomo


    Surgeon doesnt want to go in yet
    There is torn cartilage and bone bruising but wants to wait and see. Reckons I was millimetres from shattering knee but I'll take being lucky on this occasion. Lesson learned for next time with rental gear.
    Hoping it will heal naturally/physio etc


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭fannymagee


    Ah that's good- I'm a big believer in conservative management where possible- esp with joints! Hopefully all will heal beautifully in due course and you won't need the arthroscopy. You were very unfortunate though...!


  • Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭edson


    1. Where and when you went.

    Livigno, Feb 22nd - Mar 1st

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.

    Snowboard (+2 snowboarders, 5 skiers)

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.

    Excellent, it had snowed in Livigno a lot over the previous month. Very cold at night though meant the snow was a bit crunchy off-piste, icy on piste at times, but there was loads of it! There was a big dump throughout Wednesday, visibility not the best, but Thursday was a glorious day, and the conditions were perfect!

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.

    Intermediate.

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.

    Bars were great craic, some places have specific nights that are better than others. Food is pretty decent on the mountains, but it's really nice in the town, loads of options.

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.

    It's just a great place to go really, plenty of fun to be had, great food, it's a high resort so I'd imagine it's pretty snowsure, but don't hold me to that! Another thing is there are some great opportunities for off-piste freeriding, and guides are available.

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.

    Not really, though there is a 50% discount on day passes to St Moritz if you fancy joining the posh folk over there!

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.

    Mainland Europeans (we met only a handful of Irish, though there were probably many more with the tour groups).

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.

    We went totally independent, with a car hire, between 8 of us. Worked out much cheaper than what the tour operators were offering, plus gave us a bit more freedom! The drive to Livigno is lovely, but can require snow-chains through the main mountain pass on the way into Livigno. And yes, I would go back again, but maybe not for 2 years or more (I've been twice in the last 4 years).


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,295 ✭✭✭ckeego


    Where do you fly into for Livigno and how long is the transfer, Edson?

    How family friendly is the resort also? Many thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 267 ✭✭Bobby1984


    For Livigno, we always fly into Milan (Linate). Transfer time is about 4 hours if you go non-stop and there is not heavy snowfall which causes traffic jams going over the tops of mountains. These can cause delays.

    I was travelling with 3 other adults (all 30 ish) but I think it is fairly family friendly. There are some activities such as bowling and go karting to do. Pubs and restaurants always cater for young families although I cannot comment on accommodation for families as I have not experienced it. Buses can be a bit of hassle if you are trying to get a buggy on it especially at busy times when it will be jammed with skiers and boarders. However they are very frequent so you could wait a few minutes for the next one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭edson


    ckeego wrote: »
    Where do you fly into for Livigno and how long is the transfer, Edson?

    How family friendly is the resort also? Many thanks.

    I'm not married and don't have kids, but there were plenty of families there, even in the apres ski bars! And I did notice kids menus in the restaurants...there's an ice skating rink there also, even kid's play areas on mountains...plenty of small blues for them to learn too!

    I flew into Bergamo with Ryanair, which wasn't too bad, 3.5 - 4 hrs drive, depending on mountain traffic. You can also fly to Zurich, or Innsbruck.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,295 ✭✭✭ckeego


    Many thanks for the info


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭fannymagee


    Agh sorry, wrong thread! Post has been relocated :-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 149 ✭✭I dont know


    1. Where and when you went.
    Vars, La Foret Blanche 16th – 23rd March 14
    Connected with Risoul
    Flew into Turin, just under a 3hr drive
    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    I boarded. 3 others skied
    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.
    It had snowed the previous week, but not since.
    Slopes were in good condition at start of week, but with the great sunshine the snow was thawing fast.
    The slopes on the Peyner side were fairly icey in the mornings. This is the quieter tree lined side of the resort. The main side of the resort, La Mayt, got more sun and softened, but lower slopes got a little too slushy in the afternoons. Upper slopes were great.
    A massive dump of snow all Day Saturday left it good for the following week
    Much of the off piste through the trees was quite icey, but good in areas with the sun. It would have been great in the wide open areas after the snowfall
    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.
    Intermediate
    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    There is very little après ski here.
    There is only one real ‘Bar’ which is part of the Restaurant Les Escondus
    We ate in some very nice restaurants; La Marmotte, Le Torrent & Le Schuss All French cuisine
    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.
    Travel over to Risoul a couple of days. It seems a little livelier and younger
    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.
    I really liked the three restaurants mentioned above
    On the Risoul side you can do a zipline across the ski area. It can be hard to find as you have to go off piste but it is signposted
    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.
    Mainly French. There isn’t much English spoken and many of the menus etc don’t have an English translation. We were the only 4 guests with CrystalSki that week.
    The French half term had finished the week before so it was very quiet and we often had slopes to ourselves
    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.
    There are a lot of long button lifts, much longer & steeper than I’ve seen before which was quite difficult as a snowboarder
    There was plenty of good slopes for me & 7 ski parks ranging from beginner to border cross level
    I probably wouldn’t go again any time soon, but it might be nice for a family ski holiday in the future

    We stayed in Le Hameau des Rennes apartments. I would definately recommend them. A little walk up the hill from the centre of the resort, but right beside ski hire, some restuarants and very nearly ski in ski out (about a 10m walk from basement ski lockers to snow)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 66 ✭✭adr1984


    Hi anybody go skiing round October/November, would be a gem in the rough if I could get info for the coming months.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Fattes


    adr1984 wrote: »
    Hi anybody go skiing round October/November, would be a gem in the rough if I could get info for the coming months.

    Hunter tux, Saasfee, Zermatt, Engelberg, Solden, Les deux alps and Tignes will all be open from the end of October


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Fattes


    So day over 7,200 meters vertical skied hot up to 89kph! Body and knee feel great and managed a few TINY airs! Best thing is had the place to myself


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Diemos


    How is Whistler holding up this season? Anyone there or been there this season?


  • Registered Users Posts: 291 ✭✭granty1987


    Diemos wrote: »
    How is Whistler holding up this season? Anyone there or been there this season?

    --Just copied my post from the 2015 Banter thread--
    Just back from two weeks in Whistler. flights were a bit messy - missed the connection in Toronto on the way over due to headwinds/cargo door wouldn't open/connection in different terminal and on the way back they lost our board bags - two days later still haven't shown up with two of my babies in my bag..

    We were picked up in VC airport and drove up the Sea to Sky Highway in a snow flurry and were staying in a friends apartment in the Whistler Mountain Ski Club, complete with a kitted out gym & 100m from Creekside Goldola.

    Our first two days were full of unreal powder - first was quite windy so none of the upper mountain was open. Second day was honestly the best day of off piste I have ever ridden in - constant fresh lines, pillows, drops and tree runs - love that feel boosting over a tree! rest of the week was spent trying to find the odd fresh patch but our minds were turning to the parks. The XL booters under the Cat Skinner chair blew my mind - not for the size of the kickers, but just the volume of talented boarders and skiers hitting them.

    Then it got interesting as a big weather front arrived on Friday/Sat but the freezing level was too high and we were hit by the worst rain I have seen in a long time - people were wearing binbags all over the shop! my 20K gear lasted all of one chairlift but we stuck it out to the detriment of my goggle lenses which were like a fish tank by the end of the day. That unfortunately ruined the snowbase for the second week.

    We basically lived in the the three parks after that as Spring conditions were in effect - using the Peak 2 Peak cable car to go to whichever one was in the sun to avoid any ice. Reminded me of L2A glacier fun in the sun where it was bulletproof in the morning and super slushy in the afternoons

    With the rain etc we branched out a bit and went to the Prior Snowboard factory for a tour, same for Whistler Brewery and we took up Ice Hockey for few evenings which was mental! Coach Bombay is the man!

    Managed to break a second snowboard in 5 weeks there doing a hardway270 onto a downbox but when I brought it to the shop they discovered another issue where the dye cut was popping out of the base which I think is going to be covered by the 5 year K2 Bambooyah Warranty as the issue is coming from some ridge in the core that is now there - that is, I need to get my boardbag back first as it is still MIA

    Can't wait to get back up to Kiltiernan now and then off to Livigno for 9 days in Easter

    It was a pretty mixed bag on the mountain - had pretty much every element. The first week (18th of Jan) had some amazing powder - Monday was the pick of the litter with quieter queues even though it was Martin Luther day, mid week was very quite so no complaints. The snow was great until the rain on Fri/Sat which was crap. Then it was a case of writing off a few mornings as it was bulletproof if the temp dropped too much that night. Had some great spring conditions though for the second week which made the parks and pistes pretty fun for acting the maggot and jibbing around.

    From what I have seen they have had quite a few days of 5-10 cm snowfall so its picked up since I have left.

    It's some spot!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,204 ✭✭✭a148pro


    Going to post this in short hand

    Cervinia, Italy (also bit of Zermatt and all of Pila)

    Flights Bergamo Dublin, dirt cheap, one hundred euro and less return, even booked the day before

    You can also fly to Malpensa and Turin which are both closer

    Car hire cheap, 2hrs 45 min drive with a healthy disrespect for motorway speed limit, 18 euro tolls each way

    Difficult to get snow tires in Italy

    Nice resort, little pedestrian street
    Decent bars and restaurants but no crazy night life and very few people out after 10 say

    Stayed in Mignon, 110 BandB per person sharing, very well run exceptionally nice people, lovely breakfast, poor coffee, right beside lift, not great value given absence of wellness

    Also stayed in Edelweiss 85 HB per person, very well run, friendly, poorer breakfast but dinner was good and interesting, decent wellness, 5 min walk from lifts you can leave your skis in ski rental for 3 euro a day

    Resort views are stunning, Italian Matterhorn

    I love skiing in Italy and I love the italians, much nicer and more charming than the french and austrians, slightly less efficient that the austrians. Food is delicious on the slopes and reasonable, their culture seems to be to ensure affordable food no matter what you are doing. Hard to get a bad meal on the mountain or elsewhere. I bought a bottle of water in a bar in nearby resort of Pila, on the slopes, one euro, couldn't believe it

    Lift system is good and almost all very quick, very few queues

    Slopes long and gentle, nothing crazy steep, a few nominal blacks that might be regarded as steep reds

    But there are very long descents to make up for the lack of steeps, longest descent in Europe is from top of Zermatt to bottom of Valtourneche, with one rude interruption of a hundred meter ski lift

    Resort is as 2000m and has access to highest ski lift in Europe so is snow sure

    Link to Zermatt - SEE NOTES BELOW - personally i preferred the skiing in Italy and wouldn't bother getting the pass again, BUT, it is worth doing at least once so you can see the Matterhorn from Switzerland side and get the highest ski lift in Europe (3900m), good views from observatory at top, breathlessness, experience Zermatt if that floats your boat

    Slopes initally very gentle in Zermatt, then improve, you can prob ski the entire resort if you got over early enough but if you get stuck you'll have to stay the night as taxi home 600 euro

    Everything in Switzerland absurdly expensive, turn off phone, leave wallet at border

    LIFT PASS NOTES:

    I STRONGLY ADVISE that you consider buying lift pass on a daily basis. We noticed there was a significant discount if you bought a multi day pass but I think they want to lure you in. International pass is 57 per day (covers Zermatt) I think local pass is 43 (maybe even less?). One off upgrade for a day is 30 euro or something. It worked out that if you were going to go over more than one day it made more sense to get the international pass.

    BUT the resort suffers from wind which causes lift closures. We went for 4 days, bought the 4 day international pass and it was closed for the next three days.

    Now here's the catch - they wont give you your money back, they will only give you another voucher for the missing days that you can use in the next year (hence why I came back). I think if you get insurance when buying you can in theory recover some money via the insurance company.

    Here's the second catch - if you buy the local pass, which is cheaper, you can ski for free in the other resorts in the Aosta valley (i.e., Pila, Montrosa, La Thuile, etc (possibly Cormayeur)) which will probably be open even if Cervinia is closed. BUT if you buy the more expensive international pass you can't. We then had to drive to Pila, one hour each way, and buy another pass to ski. This was galling as if we'd just gone local we wouldn't have had to. This can only be the Swiss' fault. Hilariously, the international pass is more expensive if you buy it in Switzerland.

    So all in all a highly enjoyable resort, skied off piste on second trip, guide from tourist office, very enjoyable, quite a lot between the pistes and a lot of gullys and the like going down through the centre of the resort. Also heli skiing.

    Pila was good too, very cheap, could ski it in half a day, had a few lovely runs from the top with very good off piste options (apparently avalanche prone) but the top two chair lifts were appallingly slow

    Real potential to do a lot of skiing in the Aosta valley, about 5 resorts I'd like to visit here


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,847 ✭✭✭glanman


    1. Where and when you went.
    Bláfjöll, 45 mins from Reykjavik Iceland. went 1 day, 9th February. 16 lifts. about €70 for day pass and rental of skis and boots. opens at 2pm and closes at 9pm, floodlit when dark which was good quality.

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.
    Ski

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.
    on piste pretty good, small bit off piste there is was crispy on top.

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.
    Intermediate

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.
    canteen area on site which was fine for quick bite and site down

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.
    http://skidasvaedi.is/
    they update site daily with opening of lifts. Weather is quite temperamental so often not open. Was only open 3 of the 7 days I was in Iceland so need to stay flexible on plans.

    7. Any hidden gems you found nearby.

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland
    mostly locals I believe.

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.
    I hadn't skied for a couple of years so was itching to go. For one day of skiing there was enough to keep you happy. place was pretty quiet, picked up in evening. longest run was maybe 1km but lovely setting, beautiful sunsets. Gets a little breezy and cold so be well wrapped up. Combination of chair and button lifts, some of the longest button lifts I have been on which require a little more concentration!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,204 ✭✭✭a148pro


    Madesimo, March 16, flights, Aer Lingus Milan Malpensa, 215 return booked two nights before

    Also Bergamo (Ryanair) and Linate and Turin other options for various resorts. Turin and Malpensa closest to Aosta. Bergamo closest to Dolomites though still a schlepp.

    Choose "milan area airports" on Aer Lingus and it chooses either airport. Pay attention though as you may fly into Linate and out of Malpensa. Doesn't generally increase cost of car rental.

    Most of the flights are evening out, night back, allowing you to take one less day off work and ski most of the day back home. Also some red eye options for half day skiing on way out.

    Car rental 24 euro for 4 days, expedia. Thats 24 euro for the full four days, not per day. Could get even cheaper options. They want you to buy extra insurance but just get an annual excess insurance policy for about 50 euro, covers you for all your holiday rentals in a given year (I end up renting four to five times a year). Drive about 2 hrs 15 and very easy with smartphone navigation. Road to resort at the end is fairly thin and windy so get snow chains if fresh is a risk as you won't get Winter tires in Italy unless you pay 100 more.

    Nice resort, small and cute, all lifts very fast, but only a few days skiing there. 60km pistes. Probably 3 days worth max (I suspect if you tried hard enough you could ski it all in one day on hard snow and blue skies.) unless there's fresh snow in which case the forests are a bonanza and you should have fun enough. Very long patrolled off piste descent from top lift but nothing up top open when I was there as 70cm+ of fresh and avalanche risk off the scales.

    A few decent reds but nothing too challenging. However, the runs through the trees were lovely. Also, in bad weather the trees are great and the powder runs epic. I only chose it for that purpose. Italians don't ski in bad weather and resort is quiet during week, busy at weekends with traffic from MIlan. Lifts dont start till half an hour later during week! Quaintly Italian.

    Loads and loads of families and young kids skiing.

    Stayed in Albergo K2, 50 euro pppn, ski in and right beside the lift in morning. Decent simple breakfast and best coffee I've had in ski accomodation (God bless Italy). Was given a big room. Best value ski accomodation I've ever had I think.

    There was a passable wellness across the road for 20 euro. Jaccuzzi too small and not warm enough. I think there were other wellness' around town in other hotels.

    Red wines were simply stunning, wherever we tried them. Young chap runs the hotel very friendly and knowledgeable. Ripasso, Valtellina, etc etc. 70cms of fresh less skiable after lengthy virtual tour of Italian vinyards but life is about experiences.

    Very poorly stocked ski rental shops. Didn't check the ski set ones and should have as they were much cheaper online too.

    Usual Italian experience - food on piste is very tasty and much cheaper than France. But dinner in resort wasn't very good at the high end. There was a Michellin starred place in town but didn't try it and prob should have. Instead went to two perfectly pleasant local joints but both serving stodgy mountain food.

    Very small compact resort to walk around. One or two bars with a few people in them and a nightclub which I didn't make it to (quality of red wines available was in doubt). Not a place for apres as such, but more of a small resort vibe which I liked. Italian commuting population and a handful of English, scandis.

    One great hidden gem is the witches valley off piste run through the trees off one of the blues back to the 4 man chair lift. The turn off is on skiers right just after this blue forks from a red. Excitable upper intermediates and advanced skiers with capability to turn fast and tight will enjoy this steep little creek which runs through a forest. I'd say only do it in fresh snow as I imagine it would be an ice fest otherwise. You will have to be able to turn on a sixpence or you will impale yourself on a tree, but its great craic. There is also no way out once you get in.

    All in all I would recommend this resort to someone looking to ski powder in trees after a storm without too much pressure from other skiers, or someone looking for a more relaxed small resort vibe or somewhere to take their kids.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,262 ✭✭✭iroced


    1. Where and when you went.

    La Plagne (Plagne Villages). 12/03/16 -> 19/03/16
    Paradiski unlimited skipass (La Plagne - Les Arcs).

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.

    Ski.

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.

    Good overall on piste. A bit icy and "soupy" on the less elevated parts (Champagny, Montchavin/Les Coches, Plagne Montalbert, Peisey/Vallandry) in the evening. I mean with all the daily passages you got patches of "soup" (not sure how you call that in english) and below and in between very hard compacted icy snow.
    It had snowed on the 8th of March and did snow a little bit on the Tuesday night but not enough, particularly in the less elevated parts. Weather was gorgeous. Not very cold. So there was not that much fresh snow. Conditions were excellent at the top, particulalrly in the Arc 2000 part of the resorts. Bellecôte glacier was also great on the La Plagne side. Ditto the top of the Champagny area.

    Off piste. Depends what kind of off piste. Overall there was not much fresh snow (bar Wednesday but we're only talking a couple of cms) but the avalanche risk was pretty low all week.
    In between the pistes (Roche de Mio and Aiguille Rouge areas) snow was either hard with many "crusted" traces or heavily "trafolée" (unpacked snow with many traces in every direction) with some "surfacing" rocks. In some places (the hillocks below the Crozats chairlift and around the blue piste "Teppes" which is a great safe off-piste start for beginners) it was packed by the numerous passages kinda close to the piste conditions.
    On the proper off-piste routes (I only tried some "safe" ones N of Aiguille Rouge, around Grand Col, below the Roche de Mio gondola and the "easy" ones around Dérochoir) snow was a bit hard, compacted and "croûtée" (with a superficial crust due to the wind/sun/frost-thaw cycles). It was OK on the highest part where snow was soft enough to enjoy the ride and a nightmare at places in some of the lower parts (felt like skiing in between icy blocks).

    There are many many off-piste possibilities in Paradiski if you like it (=> http://wepowder.com/playgrounds/paradiski/routes). Some even say it's the main interest of the skiing area (I objectively disagree since there are many very interesting pistes). You can take off-pistes lessons with professionals. Always be careful though. An English guy died from a 300m fall in the Rossets couloir a couple of days before we arrived. Not known to be the most dangerous off-piste. Apparently he was in a group with a guide but fell in his first turn and slided down and could not stop before falling off the cliffs.

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.

    Advanced.

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.

    We did not go. We are of the self-catering kind :p. And if normally we allow ourself one restaurant evening this time we saved this budget for an extra day of skiing to try cross-country skiing in Vercors on our return trip :).

    There are plenty of restaurants though mainly offering typical "alpine" cuisine (fondue, raclette, tartiflette, etc...) and meat courses. You'll also find creperies and pizzerias.
    If you understand or at least can read French (they may have an English part though) you should find the places to go on the La Plagne forum.

    Bars/night clubs looked lively enough, even on piste (:p) but not our interest while there.

    Oh and if you fancy the restaurants/bars on piste, you probably know it already but prepare yourself to get robbed :p.

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.

    It wasn't our concern but it looked fairly good for kids, even small ones. Several "Piou-Piou" area for the "babies". Each village has its own ski-lessons gathering area. It looked good and safe.

    We forgot about it but there's the 1992 OG bobsleigh track you can run. It's a budget but definitely an experience I'd try when I'll go back (between 44€ and 122€ depending on the option/speed you choose).

    La Plagne offers very different atmospheres depending where you stay. Plagne Centre & Plagne Bellecôte are clichéd "ski factory", pretty lively but (a bit) artificial (interconnected low-rise buildings and towers which is great for shopping and circulating inside from one place to the other when the weather is rough). Plagne Villages, Plagne Soleil & Belle Plagne are chalet villages more familly-oriented.
    All Plagne villages are "ski au pied" (right on the pistes, in Belle Plagne the chalet are litteraly on and around the piste).

    Now, in terms of skiiing, I'd highly recommend 2 iconic pistes.
    The Mont de la Guerre red piste down to Champagny is a must-do. About 5km long, more than a 1000m elevation diff. Exposed S so bottom often has "soap" snow. But not too crowded, great view, a bit off skiing area so in a pretty natural environment (you don't ski below the lifts).
    In Les Arcs, the Aiguille Rouge black/red piste is an iconic one too. From the top of Aiguille Rouge (3226m) down to Villaroger. 16km long, more than 2000m elevation diff. Astonishing view (Mont Pourri just behind, the Italian border ridge on the East and the Mont Blanc, Grandes Jorasses & Grand Combin on the N).
    The pistes on the Champagny side and on the Roche de Mio area are very good. Ditto all the Arc 2000 area.

    7. Any hidden gems you found near nearby.

    If you like snow-shoeing, cross-country skiing and/or ski-hiking, the Peisey-Nancroix valley is a beautiful place. You get into the Vanoise National Park. With a guide, you can do the famous route that links up with the Tignes skiing area.

    If you're an off-piste expert, the route down the Bellecôte summit to Champagny (le "Cul-du-Nant") is a tough but superb ride. I hiked some parts of it in the summer, it's a beautiful journey. Definitely take a guide there. Very dangerous cliffs in some parts.

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.

    We were there outside France holiday periods so there were many many foreigners (English-speaking, "German"-speaking, Russians and eastern europeans (Czech & Slovakians if I believe the inscriptions on their helmets :p)).

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.

    Free (outdoor) car parks in Plagne villages are a real plus for a Haute-Tarentaise resort (Val d'Isère, Tignes, part of Les Arcs and other La Plagne villages only have compulsory paid parkings).

    Free bus/gondolas between the La Plagne villages (doesn't include Plagne Montalbert (*) & Montchavin-Les Coches) are a very nice bonus too. Particularly nice if you take the Paradiski extension such that you don't have to rush back too much to get back to your place.
    (*) Though to get back to Montalbert you can reach Aime La Plagne via the free bus and télémétro and ski down to Montalbert from Aime La Plagne (even if the lifts are closed (beware the snow groomer though :p!)).

    Just to mention a couple of cons about the skiing area. The "Pravendue" blue piste down to Montalbert contains a 30m hill to climb. Not that steep but not what you expect. Good to practice your skating technique :pac: :rolleyes:...
    And the "Route des Bauches" one to directly link to the Vanoise Express (Les Arcs connection) or go down to Montchavin without taking a lift is a real cross-country piste for quite a long part (in between the "Bauches" chairlift and the "Esselet" red piste). No hill there but again if you wanna test your skating technique this piste is for you :pac:!


    I generally like changing resorts but I'd definitely recommend this one and be delighted to go again.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,262 ✭✭✭iroced


    1. Where and when you went.

    Méribel (Méribel Centre). 18/03/16 -> 25/03/16
    Les 3 Vallées skipass.

    2. What you did there ski/board/blade.

    Ski.

    3. How were the conditions on/off piste.

    Not great at all. Very warm temperatures overall, rarely negative even up to 3000m :eek:! When we arrived on Saturday afternoon, it was raining a bit in Meribel (4-5 °C at 1450m).
    The lower parts of the ski area were dreadful even in the morning (already mogulled and with "soup" snow). Unfortunately for us, Méribel was the worst resort regarding that. Maybe the pistes orientation? Maybe because it's in the heart of the 3 Vallées so there is more passing? It is also relatively lower than the other resorts (100m for Mottaret and 200-300m for Meribel Centre), which of course didn't help.
    Above 2500m high it was good though. Not great but good.
    It did snow a little bit in the end of the week above 2500m but that did not make much of a difference on piste.

    As a result, the off-piste was very limited since there was not a lot of snow. The Vallon du Lou in Les Ménuires and the lower flanks of Aiguille du Fruit in Courchevel were OK. Also, I actually did a couple of closed black trails in "off-piste conditions" after seeing they had enough snow cover (e.g. Grande Rosière in Méribel, Léo Lacroix in Les Ménuires - was actually surprised they were closed since they were great to ski and they only needed a little work in some parts to be open to the masses, maybe the off-season effect?).

    The last 2 days, extreme Foehn wind (up to 100 km/h) caused a lot of lifts closing, particularly the gondolas and cable cars going to the highest summits. Since I did not check well enough the weather forecast, we did not have the opportunity to go up the Mont du Vallon and Cime Caron, which was a shame since they offer some of the best pistes of the area. My own fault really but to be a little fussy and I was talking with a Méribel ski instructor who was agreeing with me, I'd say they anticipate the closing a bit too much (on the Friday and Saturday mornings, it was perfectly safe to have the highest areas open in the morning - the Mont du Vallon one doesn't even involve any connections - and it was easy enough to close them for the afternoon to anticipate the strenghtening of the foehn then).

    4. Are you beginner/intermed/advanced.

    Advanced.

    5. What were the bars/restaurants like.

    We were staying close to Le Rond Point (on the heights of Méribel Centre), a bar with live music every evening. Good atmosphere there. Was not open 'till very late since it's located in a kinda residential area but enough to relax and enjoy nice music and beverages after a full day of skiing ;).

    As for the restaurants, there are plenty in the centre with local specialities to enjoy a good meal. We're off the self-catering kind so can't really recommand any places but from what I saw on a few showcase menus, you can get decent prices if you don't go heavy on the wine :p. Not our thing but if you wanna party later, you'll have no problems finding a couple of night clubs/bars in the centre. I heard many people favourably mentioning Les Saint Pères in Méribel Centre.

    6. Anything in particular to recommend about this resort.

    In the 3 Vallées ski area, Méribel (and La Tania) is certainly the most familly-oriented resort. Less luxury and jet set than Courchevel. less fiestas than Les Ménuires & Val Thorens. It's also the prettiest resort in terms of architecture with its chalets and its more natural atmosphere.

    7. Any hidden gems you found near nearby.

    Nothing hidden at all but the Chanrossa-Roc Merlet-Roc Mugnier area in Courchevel was great to ski with a great snow quality (local conditions?). Ditto the Orelle part in Val Thorens.

    Now, if you like slow-shoeing or cross-country skiing, the Tuéda lake area (just above Méribel-Mottaret) is a beautiful and peaceful wild area in the middle of the 3 Vallées (an entrance to the Vanoise National Park).

    Actually, now that I remember it, in the Chanrossa area, in the cliffs left beside the Chanrossa chairlift, there was a chamois (mountain goats) herd that likes to spend some time. One of the staff guy from the Marmottes chairlift (just opposite of the Chanrossa one) had even installed some binoculars on a man-made tripod directly pointing at them such that we could see them better). Quite unusual in the middle of the day in the middle of one of the biggest ski area of the world!

    8. Was the population when you were there mostly Irish/Brits or mainland Europeans.

    We were there outside France holiday periods so there were many many foreigners (English-speaking, "German"-speaking, Russians and Polish mainly).

    9. Any other relevant comments, and whether you would go again.

    Free (outdoor) car parks in our area, which is not always the case in the 3 Vallées (Les Ménuires & Val Thorens have some places with charged carparks).

    Free bus in Méribel (Meribus) was great. Our chalet was 200m higher (in elevation) than the bottom of the pistes in Méribel Centre. So if we were to miss out on the last gondola, there were several free bus routes to get back to our place or to go back down in the city centre.


    As I said last year, I generally like changing resorts but again I'd definitely recommend Méribel and be delighted to go again. To be more precise, I had deliberately chosen Méribel over the other 3 Vallées resorts (even if it was a bit more expensive (a little less than 100€ more than Les Ménuires for example for the week for 2)) because it's in the heart of the ski area. My/our main interest for our winter holidays is skiing, so it's by far the number 1 priority when it comes to choices. Therefore, I wanted to cut down to the minimum the various connections between resorts. Méribel is perfect for that. No stress to come back to the right skiing area in the afternoon and the possibility to easily and peacefully visit every single places from Courchevel Moriond on the far-North-East to Orelle on the extreme South-West :D.

    As for the 3 Vallées skiing area (well it doesn't really need any publicity, does it :p?), I had already gone 11 years ago and went for a week-end in Val Thorens 2 years ago. So third time this year and still found it great. Huge and varied with fantastic panoramic views from the highest points (the Mont Blanc & Grandes Jorasses massifs from the Saulire, the view on the Grande Casse (highest point of the Vanoise National Park) is great from there ; the Ecrins belt and Aiguilles d'Arves peaks from the Val Thorens crests). They never stop improving the lifts, making them faster and more comfortable, removing the old and useless doublon ones (which make some areas of this gigantic ski resort look pretty wild). They work the pistes pretty well. Considering how crap were the forecast (I mean crap for the snow, 16°C under a shiny blue sky at 1500m high isn't really crap conditions right :p?!) the pistes were overall in pretty good shape. So yeah, the pass is expensive but it's worth it!


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