Do you ever use automatic settings on SLR/DSLR?

colmranger

Just curious do all you budding photographers with SLR and DSLRs always use manual settings or do you stick with automatic or a combination of both?

I have a relatively new DSLR and i am very green lots to learn and just curious, i am always afraid to go manual to be honest as i don't really understand aperture/white balance and all that jargon to be honest? (but i do have a burning ambition to learn it) as i feel i am mising out.

melekalikimaka

i use a bit of everything

5uspect

yeah I like to use manual settings when I have time to compose and think about what i'm doing, but the automatic settings on most SLRs are excellent so don't feel sorry for using them. BOrG has started a theory thread if you're stuck...

B0rG

Canon P mode (you can set Raw and iso everything else is auto) is good if you're shooting under complex lighting conditions.

Roen

It's left on AV 95% of the time as DoF is what I need to worry about 95% of the time. I then dial in exposure compo from what my head and the histogram tells me.
I use Tv or M the other 5% of the time. It may have gone on to green square once by accident

Exar Khun

what does the green square do? I have a DSLR but its in my room and i cant open it untill my birthday( so i just look at the box) so im still wasting money on analog

Flipflip

I never use the Auto mode.

the most automatic I go is P mode.

There just isnt enough flexibility in Auto.

Roen

Exar Khun wrote:

what does the green square do? I have a DSLR but its in my room and i cant open it untill my birthday( so i just look at the box) so im still wasting money on analog

In the interweb terminology preferred by the young folk of today green square = No0b.

5uspect

green square = L

it does everything for you, simple point and click!

Zillah

I generally leave mine on semi automatic, that is either Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority. I'll also usually leave WB on automatic, but sometimes I'll manually set it. I keep ISO at 200 most of the time but I'll up it if I need to.

Calina

My default is towards fully manual but I have a manual SLR background. That being said, on occasion, I flick out to the semi-automatics on occasion and if I'm doing snapshots (eg, parties, evenings out, etc) I might fling the camera on fully automatic. It really depends on what you want to do.

If you've a digital camera, do remember that experimentation doesn't cost you anything. The first three or four films I shot with a manual film camera brought practically naught. With a digital though, it doesn't matter. Shoot a picture on automatic, then experiment with buttons and see what the differences are...

My default ISO is 200 - 100 if I can get away with it but you need very nice light for that. After that "it depends", the ultimate helpful answer. Experimentation is your friend. You only learn from the things you get wrong, imo.

Dimy

I mostly shoot on full manual, but on some occasions I shoot with shutter or apperture priority mode.

sineadw

I'm fully manual. No bloody choice! I do think I'm learning all the stuff properly though, albeit slowly and expensively..

Oh and thanks for the post Borg - I'm saving it.

B0rG

cheers, at least somebody found it usefull

I'll edit it some point, as it seems I'm not so good explaining stuff in english

Fajitas!

AV 90% of the time tbh.

Manual if doing night photos, that's pretty much the only time it's off AV

thebaz

I'm a bit like the OP , have a SLR , but out of ignorance nearly always use automatic settings.
Basically i dont know much about White balancing, Aperature, F settings, depth of field -- i.e. the basics of photography , i came into photography through a compact digital which was real easy to use / understand .
Whats the best way to learn basics , reading ? courses ? experimentation ?
Any recomended reading or night courses in Dublin appreciated , to help improve my understanding of photgaphy basics/essentials , and help me utilise my slr properly.

5uspect

One of the best things to do before paying a load of cash on a course is to simply play with the settings on your camera. That's the beauty of digital - no cost!

Look at repeating those shots that BOrG took with the batteries, that's a great way to get used to depth of field. As for things like exposure, take a picture of a spinning fan etc at various shutter speeds to see the difference.
White balance is just a fancy way of correcting the colour of pictures to make white things under coloured light look white and not blue or red, a colour callibration of sorts.

JMcL

I generally use AV if handholding, but use manual if putting the camera on a tripod, especially if using mirror lock up (which is usually all the time when on the tripod), and/or remote release.

thebaz

i'll show my ignorance again, but by AV , do you mean automatic ?

Fajitas!

Aperture priority!

You set the aperture value, as well as the iso, white balance etc, and the camera does the shutter speed

5uspect

AV is aperture priority, you set the aperature setting to control the depth of field and the camera finds the best exposure to give a properly exposed image that not too dark or too bright. You can also set things like the ISO ma manually in AV mode.

Alun

Canon use different abbreviations to most (all?) other manufacturers. They use Av and Tv for Aperture and Shutter (Time) priority, whereas the others use A and S. No idea why they do this, maybe someone else knows?

Roen

Av and Tv are kind of old school settings, as far as I am aware they are an older naming convention than the PASM (Program Aperture Shutter Manual) settings that the other manufacturers use.
Av is Aperture Value, as in you set the aperture, TV is Time Value, as in you set the shutter speed.

Alun

Roen wrote:

Av and Tv are kind of old school settings, as far as I am aware they are an older naming convention than the PASM (Program Aperture Shutter Manual) settings that the other manufacturers use.
Av is Aperture Value, as in you set the aperture, TV is Time Value, as in you set the shutter speed.

Yeah, I knew what Av and Tv stand for, just curious as to why they chose (and continue to choose) a different "standard" to everyone else.

FreeAnd..

I'm always on full manual, never really bothered to give Av or Tv a proper test but definitely will as alot of people seem to be using them. They could be helpful but i just try to get the manual settings adjusted (and re-adjusted and re-adjusted) to the scene constantly so that the settings are pretty close if i need to fire off a few shots. It can mean missing something if I'm not quick enough though..

DrummerBoy

I found this little section on Canon's site went a long way to explaining the basics in photography.

Enjoy Digital SLR

A.

5uspect

Does anyone mess about with the custom functions much? (They're on Canons at least, not sure about Nikons).

They're the things that that allow you to do mirror lockup and curtain synching the flash etc.

JMcL

5uspect wrote:

Does anyone mess about with the custom functions much? (They're on Canons at least, not sure about Nikons).

They're the things that that allow you to do mirror lockup and curtain synching the flash etc.

I almost always use mirror lock up if the camera's on a tripod. It's a pain that it's buried in a custom function, but Canon seem to think this is where it should be despite ignored howls of protest every time they bring out a new body. Not that I would even have it on my 300D but for the Undutchables hack!

thebaz

DrummerBoy wrote:

I found this little section on Canon's site went a long way to explaining the basics in photography.

Enjoy Digital SLR

A.

Thanks - had a quick scan of this, easy eneogh to follow and the basics are makin a bit of sense -- might now try experimenting -- not using auto

leinsterman

.... on my film Camera (EOS500) I use mostly Av (about 50%), M (about 40% ... and even then I meter using Av first) and TV (about 10%)

For digital (EOS20D) ... Av 80%, M 10% .... when things in my viewfinder start moving around really fast then I use Tv for about 9% of the time to freeze them in mid air

.... I have been known to switch to fully auto Sport mode on the sideline a Croker ... mostly this is down to the fact that it seems to work better than using Tv or Av ... but don't tell the rest of the photo elite in the forum or they'll think bad of me

Oddly enough ... I sometimes find when shooting sport that Av works best because I want to shoot with minimum f-stop number all of the time to create a narrow dept of field. With the ISO set at either 400, 800, 1600 or 3200 (depending on ambient lighting) the camera picks the shutter speed but it is nearly always fast enough to freeze the action in daylight ... you also need to either manually pre-focus or set AI Servo ... but Servo can be a pain because sometimes you end up with the crowd in focus and the players out because you put the AF point in the wrong place at the right time ...

... if you are new to photography and also keen to learn the I advise you to experiment with different creative zone settings - Av, P or Tv ... Try this for starters: Set Av ... go out and take the exact same shot at different apertures (f-stops) from minimum to maximum for your cameras lens (in daylight). Only changes F-stops between shots. Focus on something not too far away (say about 4m and set your zoom to maximum, ideally above 70mm, but this will depend on what lens you have) ... make sure the background has objects at vaying distances visible in the shot also (e.g. try snapping a line of bollards or trees with the closest at 4m and the furthest a good distance away) ... have a look at the results for each setting ... notice how the background get sharper with higher f-stops.

... if you are not confident you can always flip it back to the green square for those really important shots ... but this means you are less involved creatively in the shot.

Fionn

or get a camera what doesnt have those settings!!! lol

i'm learning then forgetting then learning again then forgetting then remembering

no wonder i haven't been posting photographs!!!

thebaz

One advantage of shooting fully auto , is you are always ready to shoot the unexpected , you don't have to worry about perfecting the settings on camera before shooting , and then loose that moment -- thats my ecscuse , but i think its good to have an understanding of basics, which i'm trying to learn now

DrummerBoy

thebaz wrote:

Thanks - had a quick scan of this, easy eneogh to follow and the basics are makin a bit of sense -- might now try experimenting -- not using auto

No problem man. I've only been into photography now for a short time. Mainly due to getting a job selling cameras! Last thing I wanted to be was one of those sales guys who really hasn't a clue!

I found that site very useful for understanding how DSLR's work. Bought a few mags/books and have had training with Canon and Olympus on their DSLR's.

I would like to think I know a fair bit to be at least able to converse with the number of photographers I get into my department. Even though I actually don't own a camera!!! (Which is why I haven't been on any of the nights out, but hopefully that'll change soon enough)

thebaz

I have a Nikon D 50 that i have only used the auto settings with , there are 4 non auto modes - P , A, M, S -- as a reccomendation should i start using the P mode , then when comfortable start using the A and S modes , and then the M mode when near expert . Its all begining to make a bit of sense to me , aperature , shutter speed etc . i.e the basics of photography .

Zillah

thebaz wrote:

I have a Nikon D 50 that i have only used the auto settings with , there are 4 non auto modes - P , A, M, S -- as a reccomendation should i start using the P mode , then when comfortable start using the A and S modes , and then the M mode when near expert . Its all begining to make a bit of sense to me , aperature , shutter speed etc . i.e the basics of photography .

Go straight for A. Keep the aperture low and snap away. If the automatic shutter speeds are too slow, up the ISO.

Thats all you really need to worry about for now, just go out and keep snapping.

Remember, low aperture (2.8 for example) means a narrow depth of field (less in focus at once), while a high aperture (22, for example) means a big depth of field (more in focus at once).

JMcL

Zillah wrote:

Go straight for A. Keep the aperture low and snap away. If the automatic shutter speeds are too slow, up the ISO.

Thats all you really need to worry about for now, just go out and keep snapping.

Remember, low aperture (2.8 for example) means a narrow depth of field (less in focus at once), while a high aperture (22, for example) means a big depth of field (more in focus at once).

Just to add to that, don't forget that with most lenses, but especially your typical kit lens, stopping down a bit rather than being used wide open will greatly benefit image quality. The Canon 18-55 is generally best at around f8, the same probably applies to the equivalent Nikon

thebaz

Zillah wrote:

Go straight for A. Keep the aperture low and snap away. If the automatic shutter speeds are too slow, up the ISO.

Thats all you really need to worry about for now, just go out and keep snapping.

Remember, low aperture (2.8 for example) means a narrow depth of field (less in focus at once), while a high aperture (22, for example) means a big depth of field (more in focus at once).

Thanks i'll start shooting using A , and setting Apperature manually.
BTW - is low aperature not equivalent to a high f- stop , that bit is a little confusing.

Finally has anyone ever done a course at the Gallery of Photography in Temple Bar , they do one on creative photography , which might be usefull ?

Zillah

thebaz wrote:

.
BTW - is low aperature not equivalent to a high f- stop , that bit is a little confusing.

The lower the number, the wider the aperture

The Canon 18-55 is generally best at around f8, the same probably applies to the equivalent Nikon

Yeah, but how often do you have enough light for that?

I'm really tempted to get a lense with one of those nifty movement compensators. Gives the equivalent shutter speed of four stops faster.

melekalikimaka

Zillah wrote:

I'm really tempted to get a lense with one of those nifty movement compensators. Gives the equivalent shutter speed of four stops faster.

VR?

Zillah

Uh, yes, thats the one.

I want this: http://www.digitalwonderworld.de/product_info.php/products_id/8193

melekalikimaka

tis a beaut, quite heavy at the front tho, vr comes in handy in low light movement, lovely sound of off the vr as it works its magic too, give me a nikon 28mm 1.4 any day tho

JMcL

Zillah wrote:

Yeah, but how often do you have enough light for that?

A lot of the time actually. Bear in mind that the rough rule of thumb for shutter speed is 1/focal length (in the case of cropped sensors multiply this by the cropping factor), so at 18mm this would give a guideline of around 1/30s, at 30mm it's still 1/50. As with all rough rules of thumb though, YMMV.

kuroino

Answering the original question of this thread: I use apperture priority most of the time, but keep an eye on the shutter speed and increase the apperture if necessary. I use shutter speed priority in the case of quickly moving objects sometimes, but rarely (I don't normally shoot sports etc.). I use M (manual exposure setting) when shoting with flash (although flash exposure is in automatic mode of course) and set maximum shutter speed and appropriate (to the required DOF) apperture in most such cases. Sometimes I use Av when shooting with flash to bring the background if flashlight does not really reach it.

thebaz

kuroino wrote:

(although flash exposure is in automatic mode of course) .

So if shooting with an external flash, are you best to set the camera to auto ?
Any advantage using manual mode on camera with flash?

kuroino

> So if shooting with an external flash, are you best to set the camera to auto ?
> Any advantage using manual mode on camera with flash?

I meant external flash of course. The internal flash is useless in most cases, apart from sometimes being useful for highlighiting of the object in well lit conditions.

As I said, I set the camera in manual mode. That is because, the flash exposure is anyway much shorter than the shutter speed. It means, that if the flash provides enough light for your scene (I mostly point it into ceiling/walls etc., so the background is lit up by flash too in most cases), you can use virtually any shutter speed you like and that will not greatly affect the exposure of the picture. So I set it to the smalles shutter speed possible (with flash it is 1/200 in my camera) as it is desirable in most cases.

Then unlike non-flash exposure, here you are playing with the intensity of flash and apperture. The intensity of flash is set up automatically because the flash is in E-TTL mode, so the apperture may also be set up manually.

That's why I put the camera in M mode in most cases using flash. I almost never use manual exposure setting without the flash though.

thebaz

I have been shooting in non auto mode over the past month, mainly using A setting, shooting landscapes with loads of time - no pressure.
Over the weekend on the street a few sponataneos photo opportunities arose , so i took out the camera to take the shots , using A setting, and the camera wouldn't focus properly, i panicked and set back to auto, shots were taken , but the internal flash popped up -- do others have difficulty using non auto modes , for those quick, instant panicy moments !
I assume its just the learning process, but was dissapointed i couldn't shoot using non auto mode .

JMcL

thebaz wrote:

I have been shooting in non auto mode over the past month, mainly using A setting, shooting landscapes with loads of time - no pressure.
Over the weekend on the street a few sponataneos photo opportunities arose , so i took out the camera to take the shots , using A setting, and the camera wouldn't focus properly, i panicked and set back to auto, shots were taken , but the internal flash popped up -- do others have difficulty using non auto modes , for those quick, instant panicy moments !
I assume its just the learning process, but was dissapointed i couldn't shoot using non auto mode .

Autofocus won't be effected by changing mode - the camera always focuses at the widest aperture available to allow in the most amount of light. Given that the flash popped up in auto mode, I'd guess you were trying to focus in low light, so there wasn't enough light entering the camera, and/or there wasn't much contrast in the scene.

One thing you can try doing, if possible, is focus locking on somthing nice and contrasty at about the same distance as what you actually want to shoot, then while still half pressing the shutter button, recompose and take the shot. You could also look at the 50mm f1.8 lens if you want work with low light levels.

Don't forget as well that you run the risk of camera shake/blur if your shutter speed drops too low. You should aim for at least 1/focal length seconds. If you've got less than that, up the ISO. Auto mode will do all this for you including popping up the flash if it things it hasn't got enough light, so it really is a case of practice, practice, practice. Good luck!

Alun

If you set it to full-auto, the internal flash will pop up if it thinks it's needed. If you don't want this to happen set it to P (program mode). Having the camera in A mode wouldn't have made any difference to the camera's ability to focus .. more probably it was just a combination of the haste of the moment, not having the focussing area on a part of the subject with sufficient contrast and possibly (since you said the flash popped up) insufficient light.

Personally when I pop the camera back into my bag after a shooting session I try to remember to set it back to AUTO, just so that if I do happen to spot the Loch Ness Monster or E.T. I have the maximum chance of getting a shot (albeit not necessarily the best one) if I just whip the camera out and shoot.

thebaz

I had to take the photos quickly , hence the panic, the camera was set to A at F 8, maybe i should have increased the apperature , but i'd very little time, so i just flicked it to auto , and the flash kind of ruined what would have been a great shot -- its okish now -- turning the flash off on the Nikon d50 , would mean losing that spontanaity, i.e. its more than a quick button click .
Maybe under these circumstances, for that quick shot, auto setting is best (as Alun suggests), just wanted to see what others do for those quick snaps .

kuroino

When not shooting I always try to keep my camera in A mode, maximum apperture setting (e.g. F2.8) and ISO 400. Just for these "Loch Ness Monster" situations. Although no Loch Ness Monsters encountered yet )

thebaz

Since many here are also using A / Av mode , and i obviously got my Aperature way off (f8 - which i thought to be a nice average setting !),
is this how most of you deal with those instant lough ness moments, i.e. set Aperature to lowest F stop, and then keep increasing f number so as to get correct exposure ?
Didn't think it good to have aperature fully open (lowest f stop !) .