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antec p180 wc mod

  • 29-08-2006 7:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭


    ok i am starting to fall in love with this case and lonnbeimnech showed me this pro job of a dual rad fitted and i wanted 1 even more.so i was wondering would it be hard to mount the rad there and cut the whole ???

    and was wonderin were would be a good place to put res,pump

    P180_b_Inside.jpg

    heres some pics of rad placeing

    P180_WC_01.jpg
    P180_WC_02.jpg
    P180_WC_04.jpg
    P180_WC_05.jpg


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,401 ✭✭✭✭Anti


    Nah will be easy and straight forward, just make a cardboard template first though, and all should go grand, hope you have a dremel though :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    ya gota buy 1 :D

    also anyone wana buy a cm stacker not a 100% shure tho if i will do it :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,401 ✭✭✭✭Anti


    yeah ill take it, as long as its in good nick, and you arnt asking a fortune for it, drop me a pm when you plan to sell it mate :

    **EDIT**

    offer pulled out as 51€ delivery is a bit much for me :(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,279 ✭✭✭DemonOfTheFall


    Im also going from a stacker to a p180. I was going to watercool mine but the total for the PC was €2150 without watercooling so i decided to leave the WC out...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    ordered a p180 last night.anyone want a cm stacekr.

    and also got a dremal and a grid what else will i need


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    found this very handy.

    but think i might put the pump on the middle platform not any bottom im think of the best tidyest way(less wires)

    any ideas??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,401 ✭✭✭✭Anti


    Beatfreak from overclocking.ie did the mod with the rad in the middle of the front of the case, very nice looking. Shame www.overclocking.ie is down or you could see it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    would tihs me the best way to do it no sharp conoers for tubing to take.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,401 ✭✭✭✭Anti


    pretty much yeah, even though i would mount the rad outside for better cooling


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    want to keep it in side.make it look cool :D


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,821 ✭✭✭Skud


    black one is nice imo :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,828 ✭✭✭unklerosco


    I had that case, bought it new n sold it 4 days ltr.. Case is smaller than it looks, Ur sketch that u did has a few flaws..

    U loose out on all but 1 of ur 5 1/4" bays, It seems ur going pump>gfx>rad>cpu>res.. Better to go pump>res>rad>cpu>gpu, u'll have to use 3/8"/10mm tubing.. U'd never get 1/2" tubing in that space and last of all its gonna be a nightmare to work on it..

    The case is designed to work with air cooling, get urslef an arctic cooler for X1800XT and a freezer 64 for the cpu n u'll be getting damn close to the temps ur getting with ur WC kit.... and it'll be quiet too.. That was the best thing about that case, its so damn quiet


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,821 ✭✭✭Skud


    I gotta agree with the above post, the case is designed in such a way that it suits air cooling. There's not that much room in the case despite it's size, can be hard to navigate the cables around the case. So if you got thicker water cooling tubes mixed with the psu (assuming a high voltage psu) then you could be looking at limited and complicated spacing. Which is a shame cause it's a quality case. I have one :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,279 ✭✭✭DemonOfTheFall


    unklerosco wrote:
    I had that case, bought it new n sold it 4 days ltr.. Case is smaller than it looks, Ur sketch that u did has a few flaws..

    U loose out on all but 1 of ur 5 1/4" bays, It seems ur going pump>gfx>rad>cpu>res.. Better to go pump>res>rad>cpu>gpu, u'll have to use 3/8"/10mm tubing.. U'd never get 1/2" tubing in that space and last of all its gonna be a nightmare to work on it..

    The case is designed to work with air cooling, get urslef an arctic cooler for X1800XT and a freezer 64 for the cpu n u'll be getting damn close to the temps ur getting with ur WC kit.... and it'll be quiet too.. That was the best thing about that case, its so damn quiet

    I was always under the impression that pumpin straight into the res was a terrible idea because it'd churn a lot more air into the loop in a high flow system ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,817 ✭✭✭✭po0k


    I thought it was res->pump->rad->cpu->gpu->res?
    Or res->pump->cpu->gpu->rad->res, or am I missing the point of having a res in the first place?
    Surely pumping into a res is going to lose alot of pressure? And wouldn't it be better to dump the heat from the water either before the waterblocks or directly afterwards? or with a 2nd rad between each hot spot?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,828 ✭✭✭unklerosco


    res->pump->rad->cpu->gpu->res

    Thats the ideal.. I was just going by his layout.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,817 ✭✭✭✭po0k


    kk, was worried for a sec.

    And then the apathy of someone without the immediate disposable income to purchase such kit set in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,012 ✭✭✭✭Cuddlesworth


    Yep, pump into res is a bad idea. You can mount the rad anywhere along the loop really, most people prefer to put it in straight after the pump but before the cpu block as then the coolest water is hitting your cpu first. Remember that a pump puts a fair bit of heat into the loop.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 862 ✭✭✭Psycopat


    gotta say i love the case it is a little small to fit nvidia 7950's in it and big cpu coolers however its alot bigger than most cases and because of its plain subtle design it looks smaller than it actually is imo. that guy did a nice job mountin the wc rad to the top of the case it looks great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,817 ✭✭✭✭po0k


    krazy_8s wrote:
    Remember that a pump puts a fair bit of heat into the loop.
    Does that apply to all [electro-mechanical] pumps on the market or are there any others? eg. piezoelectric?

    A pre- and post- waterblock rad stage might be advisable so? even a single 120mm rad for the pre- and the usual dual/triple for the post?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,012 ✭✭✭✭Cuddlesworth


    SyxPak wrote:
    Does that apply to all [electro-mechanical] pumps on the market or are there any others? eg. piezoelectric?

    A pre- and post- waterblock rad stage might be advisable so? even a single 120mm rad for the pre- and the usual dual/triple for the post?

    Its not advisable to have 2 rads in a loop due to the pressure drop required for a rad to work. Hence the rise of triple and dual rads rather than a few singles dotted around the case.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    ok what about this anyone got any t lines spare ??.

    p180binsidele4.jpg

    that hdd cage will be removed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,817 ✭✭✭✭po0k


    gotcha.

    So there are no biomass-powered repulsion jets on the market I take it?

    foo :/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    options :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,012 ✭✭✭✭Cuddlesworth


    awhir wrote:
    options :confused:

    The top point on the pump is the exit, side is the inlet. Think about it.

    Syspak, no there are no really fancy pumps out due to price/heat concerns. A few people in the states use large Iwaki pumps, but at the size of a rugby ball I cant really see much value in them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,279 ✭✭✭DemonOfTheFall


    I've seen a cooling system that circulated a liquid metal alloy, that one was a magnetic propulsion pump.

    I think someone on XS bought it on eBay, ripped out of some military grade Xeon system or something.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    so is this fine ???


    p180binsidejv6.th.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,817 ✭✭✭✭po0k


    I've seen a cooling system that circulated a liquid metal alloy, that one was a magnetic propulsion pump.

    I think someone on XS bought it on eBay, ripped out of some military grade Xeon system or something.

    http://www.techpowerup.com/?3105


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,279 ✭✭✭DemonOfTheFall


    SyxPak wrote:

    Not what I was thinking of, but I had seen that nano cool thing before.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,012 ✭✭✭✭Cuddlesworth


    awhir wrote:
    so is this fine ???


    p180binsidejv6.th.jpg

    Yeah, now what are the actual componants going to be though?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    look at sig and all wc is swifteach here

    Apogee waterblock
    - MCR220 Radiator
    - MCP655 12V DC Pump
    - MCRES-MICRO reservoir
    - MCB120 Radbox radiator mounting adapter
    -danger dan maze 4 gpu block.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,012 ✭✭✭✭Cuddlesworth


    Cool, I wonder if the apogee was ever proven to be any good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    i find it good and also its ment to be in the top 10 for best blacks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    cut the out the outline for the rad.it was a bitch ta do i must of went tru 25 dremal blades lol.so not i got it cut out gona drill the wholes :D.


  • Subscribers Posts: 6,408 ✭✭✭conzy


    A jigsaw with a good metal blade is best for anything other than a tiny job, and dremel blades are crap unless you buy the fiberglass reinforced ones but they are around €15 for 5 in woodies:eek:


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    very true .learn from your mistakes .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,817 ✭✭✭✭po0k


    Or buy online.

    A quick bit of googling for "dremel 426" revealed these prices:
    http://www.dremelonline.com/dremel/listproducts.jsp €9.47 Ex VAT
    http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/dre426.html $5.57
    http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Dremel%20Cut-Off%20Wheels&product=13106 £6.12 Ex VAT
    http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/426/ $5.21

    I'd say it's a fair bit cheaper to buy in bulk.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,067 ✭✭✭L31mr0d


    Or... buy the B&Q dremel-alike disks, called "performance power". They last about half as long but are less than a quarter the price... you do the maths. I've never bought any dremel made bits as they are way overpriced, the B&Q ones are just as good and ridiculously cheap. I bought a set for €10 which had every bit available in the dremel range, also 10 fiberglass ones, and 50 each of the other kinds of disks. I still haven't gotten through it yet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,012 ✭✭✭✭Cuddlesworth


    L31mr0d wrote:
    Or... buy the B&Q dremel-alike disks, called "performance power". They last about half as long but are less than a quarter the price... you do the maths. I've never bought any dremel made bits as they are way overpriced, the B&Q ones are just as good and ridiculously cheap. I bought a set for €10 which had every bit available in the dremel range, also 10 fiberglass ones, and 50 each of the other kinds of disks. I still haven't gotten through it yet.


    If you put too much pressure on the dremel then you burn through them. If you let the dremel do teh work you get so much more out of your bits, took me 1 1/2 bits to cut out the top of my stacker to fit a dual rad. Removing the psu cage was a bitch though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,814 ✭✭✭Drapper


    show us your final work Awhir ¬¬ !!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    bah to lazy its still lying on the case have to still put it in :)


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