Homebrew Beer Howto

loyatemu

re: collected bottles - make sure none of them are screw-caps as they won't work.

DirtyBollox

So didn't want to start a new thread for this, but how long past its date can yeast still be used? I have a few sachets that went off in October but i am wondering would it be easier to just get some more and take it from there? The cost isn't an issue, but i'd prefer to start now rather than wait until it gets delivered.

Bogwoppit

Should be grand, just hydrate it before you use it.

On another note, did my first brew in a new house we moved into, big gas hob made boiling a piece of p*ss. Decided to use up all my old hops out of the freezer, about 500g I think, should be interesting.

eulabreaker

Hey lads, brewing a european coopers lager for the first time. Checked it after 12 hours and no sign of foam yet. Keeping it in a 15 degree pantry, should fermentation have started by now?

mordeith

eulabreaker wrote: »

Hey lads, brewing a european coopers lager for the first time. Checked it after 12 hours and no sign of foam yet. Keeping it in a 15 degree pantry, should fermentation have started by now?

Wait at least 24 hours. Many of my brews have shown little to no foaming until then.

BeerNut

No foam doesn't mean no fermentation. A gravity reading is the only way to be sure. But, as mordeith says, it's still early to be worried.

sharingan

eulabreaker wrote: »

Hey lads, brewing a european coopers lager for the first time. Checked it after 12 hours and no sign of foam yet. Keeping it in a 15 degree pantry, should fermentation have started by now?

To add to the other comments - this kit says that the yeast provided is a true lager strain. There is some debate whether that is true or not, but if it is true, then its optimal fermentation temperature is lower than is typical for kit beer yeast. Most 'lager' beer kits are actually a kind of blonde ale - the yeast supplied is meant to work at a wide range of temperatures.

So putting it in a pantry at 15C will slow it down further. But thats a good thing. You actually stand a chance of it turning out like a proper lager. Also lager yeast strains often leave little foam behind due to their slower activity.

Expect this beer to take longer than expected to finish.

rubadub

I was brewing 2 types of clear apple juice and noticed tescos says

Carbohydrate 11.7g
Sugars 9.6g

while aldi was
Carbohydrate 11.0g
Sugars 11.0g


My guess is they might only have to list sucrose if they want to, but could add in other sugars if they want to? would that be the reason?

I saw bottles of heineken have info and said
https://www.tesco.ie/groceries/Product/Details/?id=262159388
Typical Values per 100ml
Energy (kJ) 149
Energy (kcal) 36
Fat (g) 0
of which saturates (g) 0
Carbohydrate (g) 2.8
of which sugars (g) 0
Protein (g) 0
Salt (g) 0.01

Hi, without having to read through all this, is there anywhere selling a whole kit to make beer at home? I have thought about it for years but never looked into it so I have nothing I need to make it and would like to buy all in the one go. Thanks.

Keedowah

https://www.homebrewwest.ie/
https://www.geterbrewed.ie/https://www.geterbrewed.ie/
https://www.homebrew.ie/


Are the three that get mentioned the most.

But if you are interested, you should start with reading this thread at least.

raxy

There's also thehomebrewcompany.
For lots of helpful info you can also check out the national homebrew club website for tips & reviews.

rubadub

ReginaldSmythV wrote: »

Hi, without having to read through all this, is there anywhere selling a whole kit to make beer at home?

Would you drink cider? Cider can be made with off the shelf apple juice and bakers yeast. You could do a small brew in whatever size container you want. This could be an empty 5L water bottle, or a big stock pot.

These starter kits usually have loads of stuff that is not essential, remember they brew in prisons!

I know people who bought all the bits but only made 1 or 2 brews and quit.

SoupyNorman

rubadub wrote: »

Would you drink cider? Cider can be made with off the shelf apple juice and bakers yeast. You could do a small brew in whatever size container you want. This could be an empty 5L water bottle, or a big stock pot.

These starter kits usually have loads of stuff that is not essential, remember they brew in prisons!

I know people who bought all the bits but only made 1 or 2 brews and quit.

Last week I got two fermentation buckets, syphon, hydrometer, thermometer, bottle capper + caps, airlock all for €30 on Adverts.

All used once and it showed.

rubadub

rubadub wrote: »

Would you drink cider? Cider can be made with off the shelf apple juice and bakers yeast. You could do a small brew in whatever size container you want. This could be an empty 5L water bottle, or a big stock pot.

These starter kits usually have loads of stuff that is not essential, remember they brew in prisons!

I know people who bought all the bits but only made 1 or 2 brews and quit.

I wouldn’t be really into it enough to make it. The only cider I like is a flat Welsh one and I doubt I’d make anything like it, I’d be far more into beer anyway.

I don’t mind buying all the stuff for home brewing even if I only got the one use (never know until I try) but if there’s not an ‘all-in’ kit then I’ll need to do some more research on what exactly is needed for a complete setup from absolute zero.

BeerNut

The suppliers linked to all do all-in starter sets. But an all-in set-up for brewing beer is like an all-in set-up for making food: there are a lot of options depending on what results you want.

I’m going to get that Coopers DIY Beer Kit for and take it from there. Not sure how it’ll go but it apparently has everything I need from scratch and is only €100. Just after a bit of a hobby really so maybe it’ll lead further.

raxy

ReginaldSmythV wrote: »

I’m going to get that Coopers DIY Beer Kit for and take it from there. Not sure how it’ll go but it apparently has everything I need from scratch and is only €100. Just after a bit of a hobby really so maybe it’ll lead further.

https://www.homebrewwest.ie/brewsmarter-premium-beer-starter-kit-without-heating-belt-best-value-2744-p.asp
I'd get this & buy select the option for a 2nd bucket. You need a 2nd bucket for bottling. It will come with a better beer kit than the coppers kit.

raxy

raxy wrote: »

https://www.homebrewwest.ie/brewsmarter-premium-beer-starter-kit-without-heating-belt-best-value-2744-p.asp
I'd get this & buy select the option for a 2nd bucket. You need a 2nd bucket for bottling. It will come with a better beer kit than the coppers kit.

Thanks. Would that make an ale or stout though? I wouldn’t want to make the lager it mentions so what would I need to buy in addition?
Also, what does the heating belt do? It’s not a pile more money so if I really needed it I’d get it.

raxy

ReginaldSmythV wrote: »

Thanks. Would that make an ale or stout though? I wouldn’t want to make the lager it mentions so what would I need to buy in addition?
Also, what does the heating belt do? It’s not a pile more money so if I really needed it I’d get it.

I'm not a stout fan but you can make any of the kits with these. When I got mine you were able to pick the kit you wanted. Maybe send them a mail if you can't & see what they'll do.
The heat belt is for controlling temperature. If where you are fermenting is cold you wrap it around the bucket & it keeps the temperature from going too low. I got it when I started out & did use it as the house was very cold.

rubadub

ReginaldSmythV wrote: »

Thanks. Would that make an ale or stout though?

as said above email and ask about swopping. You realise a hombrew stout will not have a creamy head like guinness etc? the mainstream commercial stouts are nitrogenated.

The Coopers kit seems overpriced, they probably have a much higher wholesale price which the sellers just pass on -while the kits they assemble themselves can be a lot cheaper.

rubadub

ReginaldSmythV wrote: »

The only cider I like is a flat Welsh one and I doubt I’d make anything like it, I’d be far more into beer anyway.

What is the name of it? often you will find people trying to replicate commercial brews. Flat cider is very easy to make, when I make mine I usually keep a few bottles flat.

rubadub

rubadub wrote: »

What is the name of it? often you will find people trying to replicate commercial brews. Flat cider is very easy to make, when I make mine I usually keep a few bottles flat.

Sorry I thought I’d replied to this. Thanks for the suggestions above I’m going to ring one of the shops in the new year about it, just for privacy and I’ll see what they suggest. The Welsh cider is Apple County.

raxy

There are usually discounts around black friday/ new years you could also look out for.
More important think to ask is how much time you want up put into this. Kit brewing is fine. Takes almost no time & gives ok results. If you want to get into brewing you could get a biab kit for not a lot more that gives better results than kits, it will take a lot longer though. Kits can be done in an hour but biab/all grain can take 4-/5 hours.
If your not in a rush to order it might be worth finding a local homebrew club & going to a meet to ask questions.

poitinstill

dont wait...jump in
https://www.homebrewwest.ie/craft-range-special-offer-starter-kit-for-beer-4003-p.asp
this would do you for a start... 40euro for 40 pints inc starter equipment and add as you go along if you like.

needs a plastic spoon/paddle

I got a kit but I haven’t a notion where to start at all. I think I have most of what I’ve seen used in most home brewing videos on YouTube but there’s no instructions whatsoever on anything, nothing about procedures or volumes or temperatures or kit assembly (there’s some stuff that I don’t know what it’s used for). Anyone any guides or anything? I’m basically looking at buckets and other equipment and a big can with a yeast sachet on top and no idea where to start. Be kind, everyone has to start somewhere. I really thought there would be a step by step to start, they’re beginner kits after all.

KAGY

going from left to right

• Thermometer, stick it to outside of bucket, leave it there
• Beer kit needs extra sugar, either the malt extract or brewing sugar, I doubt it's both, but check the instruction under the lid of the Coopers kit, should be a sachet of yeast there too
• Taps, should screw onto your bucket. some people use two buckets, one for fermenting, then when that's done transfer to the second with your bottle sugar leaving the dead yeast behind. You've got carb drops so I wouldn't bother.
• Bubbler, half fill with cool boiled water, stick it in the bung in the bucket lid, keeps out flies and lets out gas as you say
• Heat Belt, don't bother unless you're keeping it outside while fermenting. Room temp 16-24 deg is fine.
• Yellow yoke, bottle washer, (missing a little black ring?) fill with cleaning fluid, push the bottle upside down on it and the cleaning fluid squirts up inside (oo er missus)
• Measure thing = hygrometer, measures how dense the liquid is (more sugar = more dense, sugar -> alcohol = less dense) This is known as your specific gravity. Take one reading before you add the yeast, and another two weeks later and then the next day. If the two later ones are the same, jobs done. You can use an online calc to see how alcoholic your beer is using the first and last reading.
• Bottle wands, fit on tap, open tap, when the nozzle is pushed against the bottom of the bottle it opens up and fills, leave 2 or 3cm at the top.

Best of luck

KAGY

KAGY wrote: »

going from left to right

• Thermometer, stick it to outside of bucket, leave it there
• Beer kit needs extra sugar, either the malt extract or brewing sugar, I doubt it's both, but check the instruction under the lid of the Coopers kit, should be a sachet of yeast there too
• Taps, should screw onto your bucket. some people use two buckets, one for fermenting, then when that's done transfer to the second with your bottle sugar leaving the dead yeast behind. You've got carb drops so I wouldn't bother.
• Bubbler, half fill with cool boiled water, stick it in the bung in the bucket lid, keeps out flies and lets out gas as you say
• Heat Belt, don't bother unless you're keeping it outside while fermenting. Room temp 16-24 deg is fine.
• Yellow yoke, bottle washer, (missing a little black ring?) fill with cleaning fluid, push the bottle upside down on it and the cleaning fluid squirts up inside (oo er missus)
• Measure thing = hygrometer, measures how dense the liquid is (more sugar = more dense, sugar -> alcohol = less dense) This is known as your specific gravity. Take one reading before you add the yeast, and another two weeks later and then the next day. If the two later ones are the same, jobs done. You can use an online calc to see how alcoholic your beer is using the first and last reading.
• Bottle wands, fit on tap, open tap, when the nozzle is pushed against the bottom of the bottle it opens up and fills, leave 2 or 3cm at the top.

Best of luck

Thanks for that. There were no instructions in the Coopers kit so I might try look them up or get another kit with them in it.

Do I not need a big saucepan or muslin bags or anything? Would that be the lot (along with the two buckets I also have that aren’t in shot).

Actually the stout can says I need something called Coopers Beer Enhancer 3 on the side of the can so I’ll have to get that anyway.

KAGY

ReginaldSmythV wrote: »

I got a kit but I haven’t a notion where to start at all. I think I have most of what I’ve seen used in most home brewing videos on YouTube but there’s no instructions whatsoever on anything, nothing about procedures or volumes or temperatures or kit assembly (there’s some stuff that I don’t know what it’s used for). Anyone any guides or anything? I’m basically looking at buckets and other equipment and a big can with a yeast sachet on top and no idea where to start. Be kind, everyone has to start somewhere. I really thought there would be a step by step to start, they’re beginner kits after all.

Read the first post!
but as short as possible.

• Clean and sterilise the bucket and spoon
• if you want put the two cans in hot water to soften the contents and make it easier to pour
• Pour both into the bucket
• Add about 3L of water just off the boil, TIP: I normally pour the water from the kettle into the nearly empty tins first to make sure I get it all out.
• Stir it up
• top up to 23L with cool water, stirring. Actually, if you can get some air bubbles into it that will help the yeast get off to a good start
• Take a small amount out with a clean glass to measure your "starting gravity" probably something like 1.40, you can taste it now, it'll just be sweet and malty.
• Hopefully the temperature will have dropped below 24deg, now you can "pitch" your yeast. If not - wait. As it's your first one, I'd just sprinkle the yeast on top and push it under the foam with the spoon.
• Add your lid, and bubbler. Pro tip: don't fill the bubbler until you've moved the bucket to it's resting place, if you lift the bucket the water will be sucked into the bucket.
• Wait at least two week, then take a sample measurement with your hygometer and again the next day or two. if it's not still dropping and under 1.10 you're probably good to go. I often just leave it for 3 or 4 weeks and just assume its done
• Wash 40+ bottles
• Remove bubbler before moving or you'll suck all the dead flies into your beer
• add one or two carb drops (check instruction) in each bottle
• Put bucket on counter and let it settle for a few hours
• fit cleaned wand, open tap, maybe discard the first 500ml if it seems very very cloudy
• fill bottles and cap
• put away somewhere room temp,
• wait another 4 weeks
• enjoy beers
• finish batch of 40 beers and then realise you should have started a new one 6 weeks ago!

Notice how often I said clean, if everything is clean there's not much that can go wrong