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Sonoff T4EU1C switch

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    #2
    Gulliver
    Registered Users Posts: 1,022 ✭✭✭Gulliver


    Haven't tried it myself, but this looks very interesting. I found a good video here that explains how it works.


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    #3
    Stoner
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Sorry, haven't tried them either.

    Technically bit should work, however I've struggled with similar switches in the past


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    #4
    Lucifer
    Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 1,467 Mod ✭✭✭✭Lucifer


    i have 2 of them, if I get time to try them out I will post back results.


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    #5
    wait4me
    Registered Users Posts: 2,048 ✭✭✭wait4me


    I wonder do these fit a regular back box or are they very deep. Offhand, I don't know the depth of a switch back box


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    #6
    RunDMC
    Registered Users Posts: 336 ✭✭RunDMC


    Switch back boxes are around 35mm deep, the switch is 27mm deep so it will be a tight fit.

    R


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    #7
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    RunDMC wrote: »
    Switch back boxes are around 35mm deep, the switch is 27mm deep so it will be a tight fit.

    R

    Here is a simple and cheap solution.


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    #8
    spaceHopper
    Registered Users Posts: 3,970 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    RunDMC wrote: »
    as it doesn't require a neutral wire.R

    See the not on the link "NOTE: The anti-flicker is required to connect."


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    #9
    RunDMC
    Registered Users Posts: 336 ✭✭RunDMC


    There's a restistor in a white plastic box that comes with it. It is required to increase the load with LED lights, but it does make it tighter in the back box.

    Dec


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    #10
    Lucifer
    Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 1,467 Mod ✭✭✭✭Lucifer


    The resistor needs to be fit in parrell with the light so it needs to go in the ceiling as far as I understand.


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    #11
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Lucifer wrote: »
    The resistor needs to be fit in parrell with the light so it needs to go in the ceiling as far as I understand.

    There is no requirement for the resistor to go in the ceiling, once the resistor is connected in parallel with the light it will have the same effect. It is a question of what is most practical.


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    #12
    Lucifer
    Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 1,467 Mod ✭✭✭✭Lucifer


    2011 wrote: »
    There is no requirement for the resistor to go in the ceiling, once the resistor is connected in parallel with the light it will have the same effect. It is a question of what is most practical.

    But if you put it at the switch it will be in series with the bulb? It needs to be parallel with the bulb to allow tiny current flow if using led bulb or low wattage bulbs.


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    #13
    Lucifer
    Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 1,467 Mod ✭✭✭✭Lucifer


    See this diagram


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    #14
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Lucifer wrote: »
    But if you put it at the switch it will be in series with the bulb? It needs to be parallel with the bulb to allow tiny current flow if using led bulb or low wattage bulbs.

    Agreed. My point is that once it is connected in parallel with the light it will have the desired effect. There may not be sufficient space within the light, therefore it may be easier to wire a cable from the light to an enclosure that houses the resistor.

    Edit: On reflection it is probably not practical to install the resistor anywhere other than the ceiling.


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    #15
    Gulliver
    Registered Users Posts: 1,022 ✭✭✭Gulliver


    So if I have 6 LED downlights, I'd need one for each light?


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    #16
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Gulliver wrote: »
    So if I have 6 LED downlights, I'd need one for each light?

    Just on resistor required.


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    #17
    TheIrishGrover
    Registered Users Posts: 5,982 ✭✭✭TheIrishGrover


    I have a few of these on order along with another party 3 point switch for the kitchen. I was a bit wary of placing a capacitor directly wired into the mains so I did a quick google to find out how these things worked and came up with the exact same (very good) video posted previously.
    I am assuming I will need one capacitor per loop (Switch) so it will be interesting to see how I get on. Most of my lights are LEDs of various generations and one is for under-cabinet flourescent lights in the kitchen so will also be interesting to see how that goes.
    As soon as I have them in place I will update. I have a sonoff relay in my sittingroom light and it works great but would be great to have a switch I can turn on and off AND smart and I want to put back my original, preferred (Shallow) light fixture.


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    #18
    TheIrishGrover
    Registered Users Posts: 5,982 ✭✭✭TheIrishGrover


    OK, I have installed my switches and so far so good. I did need to add the capacitors as my lights were blinking when off. There is a very faint flicker on some of my LEDs when on but apparently this is because these are older, first generation LED bulbs. I have ordered new bulbs to confirm.
    Flourescent (under my kitchen presses) and traditional incandescent bulbs worked without flicker once capacitors are in. All paired to ewelink app and Alexa without issue. (Including 3 gang switch in Kitchen. Can name each switch so Kitchen Table; Kitchen Window and Kitchen Door all work individually on Alexa and App)


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    #19
    Euphoriasean
    Registered Users Posts: 1,016 ✭✭✭Euphoriasean


    TheIrishGrover wrote: »
    OK, I have installed my switches and so far so good. I did need to add the capacitors as my lights were blinking when off. There is a very faint flicker on some of my LEDs when on but apparently this is because these are older, first generation LED bulbs. I have ordered new bulbs to confirm.
    Flourescent (under my kitchen presses) and traditional incandescent bulbs worked without flicker once capacitors are in. All paired to ewelink app and Alexa without issue. (Including 3 gang switch in Kitchen. Can name each switch so Kitchen Table; Kitchen Window and Kitchen Door all work individually on Alexa and App)

    Did you require a capacitor per switch on the 3 Gang. Also presume this will only work on a one way loop and can't be used for the stairs light with a switch upstairs and down. Thanks.


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    #20
    TheIrishGrover
    Registered Users Posts: 5,982 ✭✭✭TheIrishGrover


    Euphoriasean wrote: »
    Did you require a capacitor per switch on the 3 Gang. Also presume this will only work on a one way loop and can't be used for the stairs light with a switch upstairs and down. Thanks.

    Only needed one capacitor for the three gang. (Only came with one). As for stairs loop, I assume you are correct, I only installed in rooms.


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    #21
    sgarvan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭sgarvan


    Installed one myself and needed to add the capacitor. Without it the light would power on for a second and then shut off.

    Does anyone know of a way to turn off the blue ring on the switch? I was able to turn off the network icon but not the ring. I didn't anticipate it being as bright


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    #22
    kenmc
    Registered Users Posts: 7,276 ✭✭✭kenmc


    sgarvan wrote: »
    Installed one myself and needed to add the capacitor. Without it the light would power on for a second and then shut off.

    Does anyone know of a way to turn off the blue ring on the switch? I was able to turn off the network icon but not the ring. I didn't anticipate it being as bright

    Did you reflash it with tasmota or leave it stock? I *think* it's possible with tasmota, ordered one earlier in the week hopefully arrive soon to test out, will be reflashing with tasmota anyway.


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    #23
    Lucifer
    Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 1,467 Mod ✭✭✭✭Lucifer


    Is this model compatible with Tasmota? I thought in a SuperHouse video on them he had trouble with it. Might be worth checking.

    EDIT Just rewatched it and I think it is just more difficult on these as you need to solder to a small point on the board


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    #24
    kenmc
    Registered Users Posts: 7,276 ✭✭✭kenmc


    It is, but as you say a little tougher than usual


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    #25
    sgarvan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭sgarvan


    kenmc wrote: »
    Did you reflash it with tasmota or leave it stock? I *think* it's possible with tasmota, ordered one earlier in the week hopefully arrive soon to test out, will be reflashing with tasmota anyway.

    Left it as stock. Havent flashed any of my Sonoff devices. I tweeted Sonoff and it is not currently possibly with the existing firmware


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    #26
    Euphoriasean
    Registered Users Posts: 1,016 ✭✭✭Euphoriasean


    I got the below no neutral switch from Ali and works no problem with the capacitor.

    IMG_20200404_123404.jpg

    https://a.aliexpress.com/_dVMAVGI

    They also have a vice switch which looks like it could fix issues for 2 ways switches. Have not tried this yet.

    I am having an issue with Led light that wont switch off or flicker even with the capacitor.


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    #27
    sgarvan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭sgarvan


    Euphoriasean wrote: »
    I got the below no neutral switch from Ali and works no problem with the capacitor.

    IMG_20200404_123404.jpg

    https://a.aliexpress.com/_dVMAVGI

    They also have a vice switch which looks like it could fix issues for 2 ways switches. Have not tried this yet.

    I am having an issue with Led light that wont switch off or flicker even with the capacitor.

    Much tidier and smaller capacitor to the sonoff one. Hopefully sonoff follow suit and shrink the capacitor over time. Want to stay with sonoff now to have one app to control all devices.


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    #28
    Euphoriasean
    Registered Users Posts: 1,016 ✭✭✭Euphoriasean


    sgarvan wrote: »
    Much tidier and smaller capacitor to the sonoff one. Hopefully sonoff follow suit and shrink the capacitor over time. Want to stay with sonoff now to have one app to control all devices.

    You have any issue with LED spotlights? I've seen them work with other models.


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    #29
    sgarvan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭sgarvan


    Havent installed on with LED spotlights yet. That is next on the list.

    Hopefully SonOff bring out the 2 & 3 gang ones aswell soon


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    #30
    kenmc
    Registered Users Posts: 7,276 ✭✭✭kenmc


    kenmc wrote: »
    Did you reflash it with tasmota or leave it stock? I *think* it's possible with tasmota, ordered one earlier in the week hopefully arrive soon to test out, will be reflashing with tasmota anyway.

    Finally arrived, was stuck in Netherlands for a month! bloody covid and delayed postage times.
    Flashed with tasmota, and installed as the controller for the downstairs toilet with a 10 minute auto-off timer configured. Now when the kids come out of the toilet and leave the light on, it'll only be on for a couple of minutes. Also disabled the WiFi status led so it's less annoying.

    Can also hook it up to openhab on a schedule for when on holidays or whatever too. Trivial to flash, and not reliant on the chinese website uptimes.

    All I need now is for a high WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) score, whenever there's a break in whatever show is on now....


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    #31
    kenmc
    Registered Users Posts: 7,276 ✭✭✭kenmc


    Had to hack the sensor a bit, very low responsiveness, family not very happy. Found solution online where you stick a thick bit of plastic packaging to the sensor with double-sided tape - makes it way more responsive.

    Works fine without front panel on though, so must be a spacing thing between screen and sensor. Will see how they get in with it over the next few days


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