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Ford Transit conversion to camper MKII

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Remainder of stone chipping finished.

    Weather made a massive difference when it came to it. Was touch dry fairly quickly. I also went up over the rear arches too, just to be sure


    IMG-20210425-164212.jpg


    IMG-20210425-164219.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    My order partially came from CosyCampers today. It seems as though FastWay misdirected one of the boxes to cork, but the other's came. Anyhoo that's not my moan, shit happens.

    I'm really annoyed about the way the lining carpet was shipped. It was cut to size and rolled into a ball and stuffed into some bubble wrap and shipped. I get that they might be busy but this isn't good enough. It's all covered in wrinkles now and looks like it was dragged out from behind the couch. It wouldn't have taken much effort to fold it a bit before wrapping. This stuff isn't cheap bloody cheap. Come to think of it, nothing is cheap in that place

    /rant


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I had a look at their stock...not impressed. Their batteries are overpriced or underweight (Tayna confirmed no international shipping) reselling brands of questionable fidelity for exorbitant prices....I was only looking at electrics.

    I grid-tied my little camper with a 265W panel today.
    It "charges" the house. Next time I hear someone complaining they'd rather a €200 150W panel because they'd "never use" a €100 300w and it's "too big" I'm gonna beat them with a micro-inverter.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice




  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Yurp. Ask if there's any B-stock they often have end of series/pallet panels they can't sell that go for cheap because they're oddballs.

    If you get a used stand-alone micro-inverter you can trigger the panel to trickle the van battery until midday on the sunsaver and then power your house after using that sunsaver load control and a changeover relay/contactor or something similar.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Not sure if I mentioned but I bought this water pump on amazon on a whim, figuring that I could make use of it, and given it wasn't overly expensive.

    As with everything else water related nothing is standard on this pump. The threads are 18mm, and that nipple inside it is for some odd sized pipe. Topping all that nonsense off there's no manual to give you any sort of information as to what you might do with it. So in order to make it fit, I took matters into my own hands.

    Got two 10mm hydraulic hose fittings who's threads are a match for the pump. I"m aware that this may come to bite me later, since my water pipe is 12mm.

    IMG-20210429-192641.jpg

    Clearly these won't fit into the pump as they are, so I went all mygyver on it

    I cut the nipples off the pump fittings as they were in the way

    IMG-20210429-194158.jpg

    I then cut the inner end out of the hydraulic fitting to allow the fitting to thread up enough

    IMG-20210429-194045.jpg

    Added in a washer to seal the two ends together

    IMG-20210429-194213.jpg

    Bish bash bosh - job's a good'un

    IMG-20210429-194307.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    This new fangled pump has an in built pressure switch that turns off when it reaches the desired pressure. That works

    I had a suspicion (after reading the manuals) that the pressure the pump was going to deliver would be greater than the rated pressure of the pressure relief valve of the boiler. This evening I mocked up the pump with the boiler and sure enough, it was blowing out the pressure relief valve before it reached the pressure to turn the pump off.

    Not to be disheartened I will just wire the pump to the micro switch in the tap instead, and I won't need to be worried about pressure related leaks.

    The cold inlet on the boiler is smashed. I've ordered a new one which has an inbuilt non return valve, which is good. Not looking forward to getting the old one out. You can see that it's broken and the nut snapped off at the time too.

    Any suggestions how I can get this out without damaging the threads?

    IMG-20210429-203940.jpg


    My overall plumbing plan is as follows:

    Both tanks underslung

    1/2 inch tank fitting for feeding fresh water from the bottom of the fresh water tank, 40mm convoluted hose to the tank inlet.
    1/2 inch tank fitting with a bit of pex piping and a lever valve to drain the water.

    19mm inlet valve to top of grey water tank, with convoluted hose from sink to the tank. Will route it in a u bend under the van to have a water trap.
    3/4 inch tank fitting with a bit of 3/4 inch pipe to a lever valve to drain the grey water.

    Or something like that




    Hmmmmm
    Snapped Non Return Valves.
    Tools: Junior hacksaw blade, small ended screwdriver. 1) This job can be done without removing the heater but it is sometimes easier to do so.
    2) Remove the heater as per above.
    3) Upright heater on the bench with the cast end down.
    4) Cut a groove into the snapped off part of the valve.Be careful not to cut down into the cast threads.
    5) cut a second groove around 3mm away from the first groove.
    6) Leaver the middle section out using a small screwdriver.
    7) The rest of the valve should then collapse into the centre.If it doesn't then another groove may have too be cut.
    8) If you have such a tool then the threads can be cleaned out with an M16 tap.
    9) Fit new valve by slowly screwing it in, be careful not to dethread the valve.
    10) Refit heater.Attach the water pipes outside of the van if you can a test for leaks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,143 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Buford, I was wondering if it was for guys like you that the DUP were proposing 'conversion therapy'?


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,388 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    This new fangled pump has an in built pressure switch that turns off when it reaches the desired pressure. That works

    I had a suspicion (after reading the manuals) that the pressure the pump was going to deliver would be greater than the rated pressure of the pressure relief valve of the boiler. This evening I mocked up the pump with the boiler and sure enough, it was blowing out the pressure relief valve before it reached the pressure to turn the pump off.

    Not to be disheartened I will just wire the pump to the micro switch in the tap instead, and I won't need to be worried about pressure related leaks.

    The cold inlet on the boiler is smashed. I've ordered a new one which has an inbuilt non return valve, which is good. Not looking forward to getting the old one out. You can see that it's broken and the nut snapped off at the time too.

    Any suggestions how I can get this out without damaging the threads?

    IMG-20210429-203940.jpg


    My overall plumbing plan is as follows:

    Both tanks underslung

    1/2 inch tank fitting for feeding fresh water from the bottom of the fresh water tank, 40mm convoluted hose to the tank inlet.
    1/2 inch tank fitting with a bit of pex piping and a lever valve to drain the water.

    19mm inlet valve to top of grey water tank, with convoluted hose from sink to the tank. Will route it in a u bend under the van to have a water trap.
    3/4 inch tank fitting with a bit of 3/4 inch pipe to a lever valve to drain the grey water.

    Or something like that




    Hmmmmm

    Very small drill bit, basically break the broken piece into 4 or 5 pieces and pull out the pieces.

    Otherwise use a drill bit slightly bigger than the inside diameter and remove material, the rest should snap off. Need to be careful to not damage the good bit


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Is it plastic or metal? If it's plastic drill and tap (thread chaser) then flush out particles.


    You mean this one?


    Are you interested in turning your camper into a solar generator and back-feeding your house?


    Traditionally we plugged in our camper 365 to keep the battery tender live and sure it keeps the battery in decent shape but costs about €30 a year in kWh upkeep as a parasitic load on the house.


    Conventionally some have moved to solar and that means the vessel can no longer require a hook up for storage.
    But that solar panel is idle most of the time due to lack of load and use it or not, it's not a wear and tear item.


    If you're flying a ~300W panel and you grid-tie it. Just the overspill alone could contribute to ~ €50 to €100 a year off your lecky bills in energy offset. By powering the base load of the premises it's connected to. As long as you don't park in shade.



    I'm using this system (V3 since I mentioned earlier..I abandoned the sunsaver sequential fixed output power distro in preference to live parallel proportional control) it works very well but my house also has a battery

    wZVlEeK.png.


    If you wanna sponser me a micro-inverter I'll build you a proof of concept and send ya the inverter and a schematic when I'm done.


    I might pony up for parts myself to proof of concept but I've not much use for micro-inverters. I've got several 4kVA 20kg jobbers work better for my purposes.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Is it plastic or metal? If it's plastic drill and tap (thread chaser) then flush out particles.

    It's plastic inside a metal cast housing. I'll tackle it when the replacement arrives, What I have works now, so I don't want to be left with nowt.



    Are you interested in turning your camper into a solar generator and back-feeding your house?

    Not really. I live in a housing estate so I can't exactly park beside the back of the house or anything. Plus I keep forgetting to ring solartricity about the solar panel so I still don't have one, never mind fit it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Tackled installing the water tanks under the van.

    Fresh water first:

    IMG-20210430-182253.jpg

    Thought I took other photos of this one, but I guess not. I added a 1/2 inch tank fitting at the bottom of the tank for draining / pumping and wrapped it in the 2mm foam I head left over from lining the roof. Extended the cables for the water meter while I was at it.

    Waste Water

    IMG-20210430-195013.jpg

    IMG-20210430-195016.jpg

    My theory on this one is to use it as an indicator for the tank being full. When it is full it'll close the contact between the two bolts and I'll attach it to an led or something similar.....

    IMG-20210430-200915.jpg

    Added the 19mm plastic inlet to the tank and also a 3/4 inch tank fitting to drain the tank. I figure this may have some particles and other stuff that you don't want clogging up the drain when you're trying to empty it. Wrapped it the same as the other one.


    Some pipe lagging, galvo-band and some bolts later, they're in

    IMG-20210430-205559.jpg

    IMG-20210430-205616.jpg

    IMG-20210430-210612.jpg

    Think I'll give it the stonechip treatment. The gold is a bit much under the van.

    Next up will be pluming the drain valves etc...


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    More plumbing

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    IMG-20210503-154407.jpg

    And some shutz for asthetic effect

    IMG-20210503-154910.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Dug this bad boy out. Took a while - I'm convinced that it was glued in as it wouldn't shift at all. Eventually the heat gun was the job for it, just needed a little encouragement.

    IMG-20210504-194537.jpg

    New valve arrived

    IMG-20210504-194531.jpg


    I'm a terrible person for procrastinating. I do it far more often than I should and sometimes I find myself standing looking at something thinking about it rather than getting on with it. I'm actively trying to avoid doing that so I fitted the new valve and tested the water heater for leaks. One way valve does the job and no leakey leakey so I got stuck in to fitting the heater on the side of the van

    chop chop

    IMG-20210504-203745.jpg

    Bit of primer for the edges and job's a good-un

    IMG-20210504-214804.jpg

    I've sealed it with silcone for a few reasons. Firstly being that it's simple to remove as the heater may need to come out every now and again. Secondly it'll not be letting in much water, moreso just that it'll keep the water out from when it's on the road. It should be adequate.


    Speaking of leaks. I noticed a drip on the inside of the driver side window. The frame at the top of the drip (in the middle of the window that opens) is wet.
    I've thought about it some and I've concluded that the window seal isn't the problem here. I made doubly sure after the last time that it wasn't leaking and it's only materialised now and not any time after the rain.

    One of the kids was messing with the window so I'll check that that's not the issue of being slightly open but I'm doubtful. I think it's the skylight and the water is running down the vapour barrier and down the side of the van, though I need to do some more investigations to find the root cause. Suspicion is the skylight at the moment though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Made some drawers

    IMG-20210508-151849.jpg

    IMG-20210508-171552.jpg

    I say made, more like I got the kits and cut bases and rears to size.

    Not bad at all.


    Did some of the gas plumbing today too. I installed the box for the 5kg cylinder. It can always be changed to the bigger one if needed. Added a drop vent in the box too, but no door built as of yet.

    Leak tested all the fittings with soapy water and they're all solid. I'm confident there's no issues with leaks

    IMG-20210508-171526.jpg

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Been a while, so I though I'd post an update. I've been doing bits and pieces on and off, some things not worth taking photo's of.

    Installed sockets in the kitchen and light switches. Had to run more cables. One of the switches controls the lights in the bed, and there's another switch in the bed to control them too. Other switch controls the lights in the front of the van, although at the minute there's only the one over the seats..

    IMG-20210522-174951.jpg

    Ordered a fridge for the van. It's a domestic countertop fridge but larger than the standard ones there are so that's a plus. Also has a mini freezer. As a plus the appliance is also A+ rated and the ones I was looking at before were G rated.

    Needed to do some fettling to get it to fit. One of the adjustable legs that was part of the door bracket was too far forward and wouldn't allow the fridge to slide forward enough so that had to go. I added a bolt further back to act as a leg and it's the job. I had to raise the fridge up by 9mm for the door to clear the conduit that's holding the cables. As a result I had to raise the rails for the bed by an inch and a half which is no big deal really.

    Not permanently fixed yet but you can see how it's sitting together.

    IMG-20210522-160349.jpg

    IMG-20210522-160329.jpg


    Started making the doors for the kitchen cupboards. Ran out of time today so hopefully I'll get more finished tomorrow

    IMG-20210522-174959.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    More work on the kitchen. I've enlisted the help of my eldest, so there's painting taking place in the background too. The black looks quite good in the 'garage' area..

    I'm no cabinet maker, but not a bad attempt when the highest precision available is a circular saw. I tried to keep the drawer lines matching on both sides. I'm not sure if I'm completely sold on the top piece. Looks like there's far too much on one side, but we'll see how it looks.....

    They'll all need to come out again to be sanded and varnished to seal them, but all in all....... not too shabby.

    IMG-20210523-173321.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,388 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I’d cut false drawer front for that, so they match up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Fitted a shelf over the kitchen unit and added a light to it.

    IMG-20210524-205556.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Added the control panel in the shelf above the kitchen will all my needed toys and accoutrements and wired them all in. I've not physically tested the water meter by filling the tank, but when I press the button on it, there is an additional power draw on the batteries. Minimal but around 300MA, so It's doing something anyway. I'll need to get some push button switch with an led or something like that for the waste water switch idea that I came up with.

    IMG-20210529-171943.jpg

    IMG-20210529-171935.jpg

    I like the power meter very much (Cheers for the tip Sir Liam). Incidentally I was digging at the back of the alternator and I found a broken wire that goes into it. Not the main power one no, but could've been what the dash was getting sent. I repaired it and started the van and the meter is showing about 35A of a charge going into the batteries. Originally the batter light would come on when you were driving. I've not had it on the road again to verify this as of yet.
    I know I said I was getting 12.something volts at the battery with the van running, but checking again now and I'm getting 14V at the alternator and the starter battery.

    With all the lights on at the minute, it shows a draw of about 4.5A, going up to 5 when the inverter is on. At that, it increases slightly again but the number escapes me when the fridge is plugged in. (It's an A+ rated fridge)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Managed to get in touch with a fellow builder who has a scrap 06 MK6 van and I've snaffled the missing bumper for the rear of the van. I also got the rear and sliding door locks. My rear door won't lock at all and when the sliding door does lock it generally doesn't open again from the key, it takes manual intervention. The new lock now locks at the back and the sliding door unlocks.

    Honestly I think it's just wear and tear on the locks, after all this was a courier van in a previous life. The actuators for the locks work completely fine.

    Installed the brackets and schutz'd them

    IMG-20210529-173048.jpg

    IMG-20210529-173051.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Went to town with the black paint. Also notice that I added a door to the gas holder with some rubber seal around the doors.

    All the kitchen doors are being varnished at the moment, with yacht varnish. Should last the lifecycle of the van.

    IMG-20210530-154534.jpg

    IMG-20210530-154548.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    In another edition of shit that need's fixing, the lcd on my instrument cluster has failed. It was working when I got it but gradually stopped working over the winter.

    This van is reasonably high spec, in that it's got cruise control and an onboard computer. I got a replacement but it's for the poverty spec model of the van, and has the buttons on the display for the mileage and the time. consequently the onboard computer from the indicator stalks doesn't work so that's no use to me. (notice the red info light between the two gauges)

    From ringing breakers they rekon that the RWD model of the van is different to the FWD model.

    I found a replacement in a breakers in cavan but I'd like to know that this will fix it before I make the trip and fork out another bundle of cash on useless shit.


    IMG-20210524-212100.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,388 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Your carpeted window recesses in the back look great. Hadn’t noticed them before.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Your carpeted window recesses in the back look great. Hadn’t noticed them before.

    Thanks, though forgiving as that carpet is, it could have been a bit more forgiving.


    Decided I didin't like the panel for the controls, so I changed it.

    IMG-20210601-171353.jpg

    I fired up the gas boiler today and it started running no problem. The water filter was leaking above the heater during testing, and when I ran it it was working away for a while and then stopped with no obvious errors. The green light was still on but the red beside it was slightly lit too. I think the water may have leaked around the tank and into the control box under the heater. Time to research error codes...


    Research done. The manual says that "No gas or air in the supply line" though there is gas, I can get the cooker running. When I do turn it on there's no real attempt to try to light again before it fails. I'll check it again tomorrow to see if it dries out or something.

    Hard to see, but you can just about make out the red light lit here.

    IMG-20210601-171218.jpg


    My zig water gauge isn't working either, though not the end of the world. There is resistance between the two probes, and voltage going to the meter. Might need a bit of googling / research.


    Also noticed that when plugging in the shore power, if the breaker is up for the sockets (and in this case the fridge was plugged in) It'll occasionally trip the breaker on the shore power. I can put it back up again and retry and it works. Not sure what's causing that one


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Water is also quite slow to drain from the sink. I think this is for 2 reasons. The outlet and pipe is only 19mm, so it would be reasonably slow to drain a half to full sink of water. The other reason is that there's no vent in the waste water tank. As water fills it builds air pressure in the tank as it cannot escape. If I open the drain outside it speeds up, marginally but it gets to a crawl when the pressure builds. I'll need to add a vent / hole in the top of the tank. Its only grey water so not that big of a deal.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    That's better, replaced the instrument cluster with another that has a working lcd

    IMG-20210602-133359.jpg

    Replaced one of the 12V sockets with some usb sockets

    IMG-20210602-133414.jpg

    Also added in the bed slats.

    IMG-20210602-171104.jpg

    I removed the water heater and it looks as though the board is knackered :mad:
    Really pissed at this. It was working fine before I installed it. Now I need to see about sourcing a replacement for it. It's back in the van for the time being to fill the hole. I've bypassed it for now.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    ...
    and it looks as though the board is knackered mad.png
    Really pissed at this. It was working fine before I installed it.


    That's usually a sign there's a fault in the installation and or installation method.
    I've had several expensive lessons in not wiring live systems.


    DnaZZCt.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    That's usually a sign there's a fault in the installation and or installation method.
    I've had several expensive lessons in not wiring live systems.

    Someone's smiling on me. It's back working today. Personally I think the board / components dried out and it came back to life. I've since moved the water filter from over the water heater, cos y'know - lessons and all that.

    Not much much in the installation really. 12V to the controller and a 5 pin d type lead to the boiler.


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  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Dry solder joint I expect. If it becomes intermittent add a touch of solder to any through-hole PCB component legs.

    Sounds like your alternator dropped a D+ earlier...I'm impressed it worked without it.


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