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Fixing to metal Studs

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  • 11-12-2019 10:59am
    #1
    mattcullen
    Registered Users Posts: 275 ✭✭


    I want to secure a bookcase to a hollow wall to prevent little folk pulling it down on themselves if they try and climb it etc. I have the safety straps so all good there. My problem is with fixing to the wall. I located what I thought would be a timber stud in the wall to find the screw was going no further than the plasterboard. There is an air vent a few feet above so I had a peep to see if I could work out what was behind the board. I could feel a thin metal stud in line with where I was trying to screw so my thinking is that the plasterboard is fixed to metal studs. I couldn’t feel any wire so I’m hopeful it is not being used a casing for electrical wire. My question is should I try to fix the furniture strap to the plasterboard using some kind of anchor bolt or should I drill through the steel and use an anchor bolt? If the latter, would anyone be able to recommend a suitable bolt/fixing? The bookcase is almost 6 ft tall and about 4 ft wide and full of heavy books etc , hence my concern.

    Thanks folks.


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    #2
    mloc123
    Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    mattcullen wrote: »
    I want to secure a bookcase to a hollow wall to prevent little folk pulling it down on themselves if they try and climb it etc. I have the safety straps so all good there. My problem is with fixing to the wall. I located what I thought would be a timber stud in the wall to find the screw was going no further than the plasterboard. There is an air vent a few feet above so I had a peep to see if I could work out what was behind the board. I could feel a thin metal stud in line with where I was trying to screw so my thinking is that the plasterboard is fixed to metal studs. I couldn’t feel any wire so I’m hopeful it is not being used a casing for electrical wire. My question is should I try to fix the furniture strap to the plasterboard using some kind of anchor bolt or should I drill through the steel and use an anchor bolt? If the latter, would anyone be able to recommend a suitable bolt/fixing? The bookcase is almost 6 ft tall and about 4 ft wide and full of heavy books etc , hence my concern.

    Thanks folks.

    Drill a small pilot hole in the stud and use a self tapping screw?


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    #3
    Maewyn Succat
    Registered Users Posts: 506 ✭✭✭Maewyn Succat


    mattcullen wrote: »
    I want to secure a bookcase to a hollow wall to prevent little folk pulling it down on themselves if they try and climb it etc. I have the safety straps so all good there. My problem is with fixing to the wall. I located what I thought would be a timber stud in the wall to find the screw was going no further than the plasterboard. There is an air vent a few feet above so I had a peep to see if I could work out what was behind the board. I could feel a thin metal stud in line with where I was trying to screw so my thinking is that the plasterboard is fixed to metal studs. I couldn’t feel any wire so I’m hopeful it is not being used a casing for electrical wire. My question is should I try to fix the furniture strap to the plasterboard using some kind of anchor bolt or should I drill through the steel and use an anchor bolt? If the latter, would anyone be able to recommend a suitable bolt/fixing? The bookcase is almost 6 ft tall and about 4 ft wide and full of heavy books etc , hence my concern.

    Thanks folks.

    These would probably work:

    https://www.handyhardware.ie/product/45155/Forgefix-Plasterboard-Spring-Toggle-M5-x-50-Bag-10?gclid=CjwKCAiAxMLvBRBNEiwAKhr-nCqgg_Hfs8KrdRIJUeWqMgP5zCuu0blV4DdFPeK13M7fLgzLCwmE6hoC8DUQAvD_BwE


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    #4
    mattcullen
    Registered Users Posts: 275 ✭✭mattcullen


    mloc123 wrote: »
    Drill a small pilot hole in the stud and use a self tapping screw?

    Thanks, Would this be strong enough to you think?


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    #5
    jmBuildExt
    Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭jmBuildExt


    mattcullen wrote: »
    Thanks, Would this be strong enough to you think?

    It'll prob be fine for what you want... that's how the plasterboard is fixed to it.
    Are the screws to go straight through the strap - get 2 or 3 into it for peac of mind, keeping as much distance between as possible.

    No need for the pilot hole with a self tapper. If you do drill one, make sure its as small as possible and obviously smaller than the diameter of the screw.


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    #6
    mattcullen
    Registered Users Posts: 275 ✭✭mattcullen


    jmBuildExt wrote: »
    It'll prob be fine for what you want... that's how the plasterboard is fixed to it.
    Are the screws to go straight through the strap - get 2 or 3 into it for peac of mind, keeping as much distance between as possible.

    No need for the pilot hole with a self tapper. If you do drill one, make sure its as small as possible and obviously smaller than the diameter of the screw.

    That's great thanks. Have picked up a few self tapping screws and a small bit. Fingers crossed I haven’t got it wrong and it’s a protective casing with wire behind it . I’ve to do 2 straps (one on each side of the bookcase) so will try the other side first and check it’s not timber. I’ll do a few screws for each fixing (plastic fixing with 3 holes) as advised.
    https://www.dream-baby.com/l-furniture-straps.html

    Appreciate the advice, thanks all.


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    #7
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,221 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    You may not all three in stud, depends on actual size of the bracket.
    Now that you are drilling, you could drill another hone in line with the centre one..
    .
    If it were my gig I would use a hex head or similar self tapper, no risk of splitting the plastic with the countersink screws
    eg
    https://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/self-tapping-screws/5465632?cm_mmc=IE-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_IE_EN_Fasteners_And_Fixings-_-Screws_And_Bolts%7CSelf_Tapping_Screws-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-544554223161&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItNiK0Myt5gIViaztCh3wWQSTEAQYAiABEgJq__D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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    #8
    mattcullen
    Registered Users Posts: 275 ✭✭mattcullen


    Calahonda52 wrote: »
    You may not all three in stud, depends on actual size of the bracket.
    Now that you are drilling, you could drill another hone in line with the centre one..
    .
    If it were my gig I would use a hex head or similar self tapper, no risk of splitting the plastic with the countersink screws
    eg
    https://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/self-tapping-screws/5465632?cm_mmc=IE-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_IE_EN_Fasteners_And_Fixings-_-Screws_And_Bolts%7CSelf_Tapping_Screws-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-544554223161&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItNiK0Myt5gIViaztCh3wWQSTEAQYAiABEgJq__D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Good idea, thanks . Yeah I understand the metal studs may not be very wide. The screws I got aren’t countersunk so all good there…


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    #9
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,221 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    mattcullen wrote: »
    Good idea, thanks . Yeah I understand the metal studs may not be very wide. The screws I got aren’t countersunk so all good there…

    Is it going behind the unit.
    What I do with these, if there is a skirting board, then the unit will be out from the wall a bit so I fit a piece of timber the full width of the unit , fixing it to a number of studs.
    Then you have plenty to work with.
    Maybe overkill but easier I find

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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    #10
    mattcullen
    Registered Users Posts: 275 ✭✭mattcullen


    Yeah from the back of the unit and out a bit cause of the skirting. Good tip, Cheers


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    #11
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 53,438 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    Since the weight of the bookcase is on the floor, I would think a lot of what is being suggested here is overkill. There's no real weight to hold here, you're just trying to avoid lateral movement of the bookcase if a child pulls on it or bumps into it.

    Personally, I'd just use some rawlplugs in the plasterboard and avoid the hassle of going through a metal stud. It's not going to go anywhere unless your child is the incredible hulk.


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    #12
    jmBuildExt
    Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭jmBuildExt


    awec wrote: »
    Since the weight of the bookcase is on the floor, I would think a lot of what is being suggested here is overkill. There's no real weight to hold here, you're just trying to avoid lateral movement of the bookcase if a child pulls on it or bumps into it.

    Personally, I'd just use some rawlplugs in the plasterboard and avoid the hassle of going through a metal stud. It's not going to go anywhere unless your child is the incredible hulk.

    Famous last words!!!
    The reason IKEA etc ship them with straps is because they have been known to topple over and kill children.

    All it takes to build up momentum is a bit of top heaviness and a wobbly floor.

    Better safe than sorry!


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    #13
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 53,438 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    jmBuildExt wrote: »
    Famous last words!!!
    The reason IKEA etc ship them with straps is because they have been known to topple over and kill children.

    All it takes to build up momentum is a bit of top heaviness and a wobbly floor.

    Better safe than sorry!

    Yes, straps that can be fixed to the wall with rawlplugs into the plasterboard and that will stop it going anywhere.

    There is no need to be drilling holes through metal studs or screwing big ugly bits of timber onto your wall just to stop a bookcase from moving laterally.


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    #14
    s7ryf3925pivug
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,007 ✭✭✭s7ryf3925pivug


    geefix seem to be the best plasterboard fixings followed by gripit. gripit have four varieties with different sized screws. Geefix require a bit of clearance to insert but I sawed them to fit where there wasnt much and it worked well. All our internal walls are hollow and we have a 22 month old very active climber. Can get a big pack of assorted brackets o


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    #15
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 53,438 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    Something like geefix would work if you don't fancy rawlplugs, but since the bookcase is only 6 feet tall it will be harder to make them inconspicuous.


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    #16
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,221 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    awec wrote: »
    Yes, straps that can be fixed to the wall with rawlplugs into the plasterboard and that will stop it going anywhere.

    There is no need to be drilling holes through metal studs or screwing big ugly bits of timber onto your wall just to stop a bookcase from moving laterally.

    Where is the reference to big ugly bits here?
    .
    Given the situation and potential risks, I don't think "There being no need" response is the correct club selection.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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    #17
    mattcullen
    Registered Users Posts: 275 ✭✭mattcullen


    Jobs a good 'Un. Drilled pilot holes easy enough and they popped through once they got through the metal. Screws although only about an inch long took a bit of pressure with drill set on a low speed to go in after the plasterboard but got there in the end. Was the same on both spots where I put the brackets so pretty sure they were metal studs and not casing to protect wire. Also the resistance was straight after the plasterboard so assuming you wouldn't place wires that close but what do I know. No bangs no electric shocks so fingers crossed all well and good and fixings feel sturdy. Safe to let the kiddo in there now. Thanks for the advice folks.


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