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Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer DIY Kit (220 x 220 x 250mm Printing Size) for €176.48

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 48 bryan06


    Does anyone have any recommendations for a quieter part cooling fan?
    Its the only loud part left


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    if you are willing to print up a new shroud you can use a 40x10 from noctua or the like and move to dual side cooling, the hero me allows dual noctuas i'm pretty sure


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,309 ✭✭✭Harcrid


    bryan06 wrote: »
    Does anyone have any recommendations for a quieter part cooling fan?
    Its the only loud part left

    I’m in the same boat. Installed the silent board today which has made a huge difference to the sound. The downside now is the fans so I’ll be looking to address that next.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    Harcrid wrote: »
    I’m in the same boat. Installed the silent board today which has made a huge difference to the sound. The downside now is the fans so I’ll be looking to address that next.

    for the hot end fan i installed the noctua 40x20 and it's working very well

    haven't touched the part fan, think mine is pretty quiet

    the psu fan though i am considering, that's a lot of noise on mine when it spins up


  • Registered Users Posts: 48 bryan06


    mossym wrote: »
    for the hot end fan i installed the noctua 40x20 and it's working very well

    haven't touched the part fan, think mine is pretty quiet

    the psu fan though i am considering, that's a lot of noise on mine when it spins up

    For the psu I printed this case and used a 80mm noctua. Don't notice any noise from it now. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    bryan06 wrote: »
    For the psu I printed this case and used a 80mm noctua. Don't notice any noise from it now. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389

    cheers, i'd seen that one alright. I'l planning to build an enclosure for the printer from aluminium profile and plexiglass (have seen the ikea table based enclosure, but it's wood, so combustible) and will likely mount the power supply external, so waiting to see how i tackle that before printing any case for it


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    this was a good alignment and adhesion test

    eLWmWqGl.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,234 ✭✭✭Mr Bloat


    I just want to think the OP and everyone who supplied info on this thread. I received delivery of an Ender 3 Pro 2 weeks ago and it has barely been off since I built it. I've since fitted a silent board and upgraded the springs and levelling nuts, as well as printing off improvements for the printer itself.

    Definitely one of the best purchases I've ever made!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    Finally got around to putting this together today, it came with a 2 pin plug, fitted an adaptor and it powered up, turned it off and no way can I get it to come back on, any ideas


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    did you check the voltage on the back is set to 220 if it came with the wrong plug?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    did you check the voltage on the back is set to 220 if it came with the wrong plug?

    Yup set to 220, I connected it to computer and it powers up but the switch won't turn it on or off, I assume I have a fault power unit


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    it doesn't need to be hooked up to a pc, when you say it powers up but the switch won't turn it on or off, what starts up if the switch won't turn it on?

    there is an issue with the usb port powering up some of the printer control board when the printer is turned off, and then it acts funny when turning it on.

    if you switch on the power supply with no usb connected, does anything happen? any fans spin or anything?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    it doesn't need to be hooked up to a pc, when you say it powers up but the switch won't turn it on or off, what starts up if the switch won't turn it on?

    there is an issue with the usb port powering up some of the printer control board when the printer is turned off, and then it acts funny when turning it on.

    if you switch on the power supply with no usb connected, does anything happen? any fans spin or anything?
    It powers on when I connect a usb charger (just happend to be from a computer), but it's on no matter what way the switch is positioned, nothing happens when I switch on from power supply, no fan etc just worked the first time and nothing since


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,201 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    jap gt wrote: »
    It powers on when I connect a usb charger (just happend to be from a computer), but it's on no matter what way the switch is positioned, nothing happens when I switch on from power supply, no fan etc just worked the first time and nothing since

    Sounds like your power supply is either faulty or there is a loose connection.

    I think the ender 3 power supply fan only kicks in when needed (im not sure on that). I know for sure the hotend fan turns on straight away normally so maybe the fan you heard first time was this.

    There is a XT60 connector (a chunky yellow connector) between the psu and the mainboard, maybe just double check that is connected ok first.

    I would also take a look that there is no loose cable in the mainboard. (Plug out the power supply when you are doing this!)

    The mainboard turning on from being plugged into USB is considered a design flaw by most, higher end machines such a Prussa do not this. At least in this case it proves that your mainboard is working!


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    you don't need a usb charger. the control board takes its power from the main power supply via the xt60 connector that WMN mentioned. when things don't work, bring it back to the simplest form, disconnect that usb cable, make sure the yellow connector is connected, and power it on via the switch.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    you don't need a usb charger. the control board takes its power from the main power supply via the xt60 connector that WMN mentioned. when things don't work, bring it back to the simplest form, disconnect that usb cable, make sure the yellow connector is connected, and power it on via the switch.

    I know I don't need the usb but currently it's the only way it powers on, the switch will not power it on everything connected correctly and have double checked everything, I'm leaning towards a faulty power supply to say it worked perfect the first time but would not power up a second time


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    jap gt wrote: »
    I know I don't need the usb but currently it's the only way it powers on, the switch will not power it on everything connected correctly and have double checked everything, I'm leaning towards a faulty power supply to say it worked perfect the first time but would not power up a second time

    cool, thats the bit i wasn't sure. sounds like a faulty power supply alright.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    cool, thats the bit i wasn't sure. sounds like a faulty power supply alright.

    I know there are plenty upgrades available for the Ender 3 am I better off sticking with stock or is there an upgrade available


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    you brought the pro right? it has the meanwell psu, which is the better version and the one you want. I'd pop the cover off and make sure it is a meanwell, but if you are going to buy one yourself it's the meanwell you want


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    you brought the pro right? it has the meanwell psu, which is the better version and the one you want. I'd pop the cover off and make sure it is a meanwell, but if you are going to buy one yourself it's the meanwell you want

    Thanks for the advice cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 48 bryan06


    Is there a fuse in the plug you can check?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 333 ✭✭Zilog


    jap gt wrote: »
    I know I don't need the usb but currently it's the only way it powers on, the switch will not power it on everything connected correctly and have double checked everything, I'm leaning towards a faulty power supply to say it worked perfect the first time but would not power up a second time
    Suggest check the easy things first. If I remember, mine came with a euro plug and adapter. I didn't use that however, the power supply has an IEC/kettle style socket. Used the power supply lead from an old PC with a proper UK style plug & earthed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 701 ✭✭✭danoriordan1402


    Just looking at picking up one of these - does the https://www.creality3dofficial.com ship from EU/UK?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,060 ✭✭✭Kenny Logins


    Just looking at picking up one of these - does the https://www.creality3dofficial.com ship from EU/UK?

    It literally says "Ship from" in the product selector - Choose EU (CZ).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,060 ✭✭✭Kenny Logins


    Are there any more discount codes for the 3 V2 about? TIA

    https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer

    CREALITY5NEW for $5 off


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  • Registered Users Posts: 121 ✭✭vanti


    'flash sale' on the ender 3 with 5 meters of filament. 140.99 inc shipping. (choose Gemany warehouse) https://www.tomtop.com/p-os0954eu.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 896 ✭✭✭stevexo


    Can anyone recommend any slicer settings videos on YouTube that they considered to be essential in turning a print from a mess to something to be proud of?
    I am able to level the bed no problem but there is something else I'm missing out on.
    For example printing some mods for the 3 Pro, sometimes the screw holes fill in or when you go to print again when it gets to a certain point it's no longer as thick as the previous print.


  • Registered Users Posts: 48 bryan06


    stevexo wrote: »
    Can anyone recommend any slicer settings videos on YouTube that they considered to be essential in turning a print from a mess to something to be proud of?
    I am able to level the bed no problem but there is something else I'm missing out on.
    For example printing some mods for the 3 Pro, sometimes the screw holes fill in or when you go to print again when it gets to a certain point it's no longer as thick as the previous print.

    It sounds like you may need to calibrate your esteps. Heres a video with a full guide on calibration everything - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGI

    For slicer settings I use a profile based on Chep's profiles. Heres a video and the link for the profiles are in the description. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSKT2WOVG8I


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 896 ✭✭✭stevexo


    bryan06 wrote: »
    It sounds like you may need to calibrate your esteps. Heres a video with a full guide on calibration everything - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGI

    For slicer settings I use a profile based on Chep's profiles. Heres a video and the link for the profiles are in the description. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSKT2WOVG8I

    Thank you very much! I'll have a look next week when the rain comes back


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    two bigger upgrades i've done:

    extruder/hot end upgrade@ upgraded to the e3 hemera, which is an all in one unit. drect drive is a step up, and i'm currently testing to see how fast i can print without dropping quality. took a while to get it dialed in,but now that i have the prints are by far the best ive had

    dual z drive: given the hemera is a fair chunk of weight to be moving around, and having upgraded to the sky mini e3 v2 so i had a seperate port for a second z motor, took advantage and went to dual drive. would do this even without the hemera, it's pretty simple but makes a huge difference, z axis is rock solid now.

    save for moving to a bigger print area not much else i can upgrade now.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    Recently got a glass bed, what are ye using to stick the prints to the bed, tried hairspray found it useless


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,496 ✭✭✭quarryman


    jap gt wrote: »
    Recently got a glass bed, what are ye using to stick the prints to the bed, tried hairspray found it useless

    I swear by this stuff:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/ML-printer-adhesive-adhesion-lemongrass/dp/B07SJNR95X


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Just in case some people here didn't notice, a new 3D printing forum has been created. :)

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1875


  • Registered Users Posts: 48 bryan06


    mossym wrote: »
    two bigger upgrades i've done:

    extruder/hot end upgrade@ upgraded to the e3 hemera, which is an all in one unit. drect drive is a step up, and i'm currently testing to see how fast i can print without dropping quality. took a while to get it dialed in,but now that i have the prints are by far the best ive had

    dual z drive: given the hemera is a fair chunk of weight to be moving around, and having upgraded to the sky mini e3 v2 so i had a seperate port for a second z motor, took advantage and went to dual drive. would do this even without the hemera, it's pretty simple but makes a huge difference, z axis is rock solid now.

    save for moving to a bigger print area not much else i can upgrade now.

    Very cool. Can you post some pictures of your printer and some results in the new forum?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    bryan06 wrote: »
    Very cool. Can you post some pictures of your printer and some results in the new forum?

    will do, will get some pics taken and put up


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,413 ✭✭✭randombar


    How are people getting on with this now? Worth a punt or is there a new cheaper alternative?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,060 ✭✭✭Kenny Logins


    That's a 500gm roll and quite a bit of plastic.



  • Registered Users Posts: 16 alexander11


    I don't have the ender-3 pro. I purchased the ender-5 pro at the beginning of May. It's brilliant, got it for under 300 at the time, there is a deal at the moment for 270 : on the creatility3dshop website. The printer itself is unreal, it's the next step up after ender-3 . The main reason why I purchased it is that the bed only moves up and down, rather than left and right as well, so there is less to go wrong. If you have any particular questions, or if you want to see some of the prints, give me a shout and I'll give you as many details as you want



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,413 ✭✭✭randombar


    So where's the best place to buy the ender-5?

    I can see it here: https://technologyoutlet.co.uk/collections/creality3d/products/creality-ender-5-pro-printer

    Any additional things to order with it? Filament etc, very new here so any advice appreciated.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,859 ✭✭✭podgeandrodge


    How hot are these things? I saw a reddit post that talked about exhausts out of the room to cool it down??? Is this not something you can put in your office and play around with, without it becoming like a sauna?!



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  • Registered Users Posts: 16 alexander11


    I got it from aliexpress from their store. To begin with, I'd only get the machine, maybe a glass bed ( not necessary though) and some filament. For filament I recommend using PLA as it's the easiest to work with. It's very easy to work with to begin with, I only used pla so far, I am looking to get some petg( is stronger) or some tpu ( flexible).


    3d printing is a hobby, do not expect to click a button and for everything to work in the first go, as it won't go, not with the cheap machines anyway. But it's very rewarding



  • Registered Users Posts: 16 alexander11


    Depends what you're printing. Unless you're printing materials which require high Temps(such as abs), then it's file. The most common material for these printers Id say so it's PLA,its as safe a sit can be.

    I used to have the printer in my room, but the noise annoyed me and now it's in the hallway, It's not very loud, but it's not quiet either. I'd describe the noise of the ender 5 being similar to a pc with the fans on medium maybe?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,413 ✭✭✭randombar


    Ordered from Technology Outlet and they are looking for an EORI number after purchase so I'm guessing I will have to go elsewhere.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,668 ✭✭✭Zimmerframe




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,060 ✭✭✭Kenny Logins




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