the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Mr. Cats · 12-02-2021 12:38pm

I fitted some new tubes and tyres to wheels on a new build yesterday. The tubes are Schwalbe Aerothans - have been sucked in by the marketing of them being lighter, more puncture proof etc. So basically they’re expensive and would like to keep them. On fitting, only about 10mm of the valve (40mm) is through the rim (also 40mm). I got them inflated after a bit of fiddling but am wondering if I should get some valve extenders. Anyone have any experience of them? Are they fit and forget or prone to issues? Anything to watch out for?

8valve · 12-02-2021 3:08pm

Mr. Cats wrote: »

I fitted some new tubes and tyres to wheels on a new build yesterday. The tubes are Schwalbe Aerothans - have been sucked in by the marketing of them being lighter, more puncture proof etc. So basically they’re expensive and would like to keep them. On fitting, only about 10mm of the valve (40mm) is through the rim (also 40mm). I got them inflated after a bit of fiddling but am wondering if I should get some valve extenders. Anyone have any experience of them? Are they fit and forget or prone to issues? Anything to watch out for?

They're basically fit and forget; have fitted them to customers bikes with deep section rims. Some come with a soft coating of sealing compound on the thread, to ensure airtight fitment; on others, I've added a thin skin of plumber's (PTFE) white tape, wound on in the direction of the valve thread, so that it seals as the extender is being threaded on.

You do need tubes with removable valve cores to fit them, however...

Hope that helps.
P.

Mr. Cats · 12-02-2021 4:43pm

8valve wrote: »

They're basically fit and forget; have fitted them to customers bikes with deep section rims. Some come with a soft coating of sealing compound on the thread, to ensure airtight fitment; on others, I've added a thin skin of plumber's (PTFE) white tape, wound on in the direction of the valve thread, so that it seals as the extender is being threaded on.

You do need tubes with removable valve cores to fit them, however...

Hope that helps.
P.

That helps a lot - will get some and fit them as I don’t think current set up is going to be reliable after a few pumps. Thanks

adrian522 · 12-02-2021 4:59pm

Wheel Truing - Is this something I should take to someone or can attempt it myself?

There is a spoke wrench on a multitool I have but no idea how to go about it.

There is a fair bit of wobble in the rear wheel, not as bad on the front but still needs to be done.

Is there a point at which you are better off replacing the wheels.

FYI the wheels are the stock that came with the bike so upgrading them could be an option too.

8valve · 12-02-2021 5:35pm

adrian522 wrote: »

Wheel Truing - Is this something I should take to someone or can attempt it myself?

There is a spoke wrench on a multitool I have but no idea how to go about it.

There is a fair bit of wobble in the rear wheel, not as bad on the front but still needs to be done.

Is there a point at which you are better off replacing the wheels.

FYI the wheels are the stock that came with the bike so upgrading them could be an option too.

Wheel truing is a black art, and as one of its practitioners, I am sworn to secrecy on how it is done.

I could tell you....but then you'd be looking over your shoulder until your untimely demise.....!:cool:

Seriously, though..it's not rocket surgery, as a fella once said to me.

The basic principle is this:

Spokes hold equal tension on the rim, keeping it in 'true' (straightness), both laterally (side to side - lateral untrueness is basically a buckle) and longtitudinaly (up and down - longtitudinal untrueness is a hop or ovality in the rim).

If spoke A, laced to one side of the hub, is not pulling with the same tension as spoke B, its opposite, laced to the other side of the hub, then the rim will be pulled towards spoke Bs side of the hub. Make sense?

So, in theory, to pull a rim back into true, you slacken the nipple (Ooooh Matron!) of spoke B, then tighten the nipple of spoke A, thus pulling the rim back into true.

It's an acquired skill, and takes lots of practice but it's a very satisfying feeling to take a 700c pretzel and have it spinning straighter than a politician's face when he/she is making pre-election promises.

Try to find an old wheel to practice on. Don't do it on your new two grand ZIPPs or it'll end in tears/tantrums/unpostable language/divorce/ruined friendships/shattered dreams and a fu(ked wheel.

Seth Brundle · 12-02-2021 6:06pm

8valve wrote: »

Wheel truing is a black art, and as one of its practitioners, I am sworn to secrecy on how it is done.

I could tell you....but then you'd be looking over your shoulder until your untimely demise.....!:cool:

Seriously, though..it's not rocket surgery, as a fella once said to me.

The basic principle is this:

Spokes hold equal tension on the rim, keeping it in 'true' (straightness), both laterally (side to side - lateral untrueness is basically a buckle) and longtitudinaly (up and down - longtitudinal untrueness is a hop or ovality in the rim).

If spoke A, laced to one side of the hub, is not pulling with the same tension as spoke B, its opposite, laced to the other side of the hub, then the rim will be pulled towards spoke Bs side of the hub. Make sense?

So, in theory, to pull a rim back into true, you slacken the nipple (Ooooh Matron!) of spoke B, then tighten the nipple of spoke A, thus pulling the rim back into true.

It's an acquired skill, and takes lots of practice but it's a very satisfying feeling to take a 700c pretzel and have it spinning straighter than a politician's face when he/she is making pre-election promises.

Try to find an old wheel to practice on. Don't do it on your new two grand ZIPPs or it'll end in tears/tantrums/unpostable language/divorce/ruined friendships/shattered dreams and a fu(ked wheel.

You should take up writing

(I'm actually reminded of the seanchai Eddie Lenihan)

adrian522 · 12-02-2021 6:35pm

Thanks, I don't have an old wheel to practice on so I may take it to the shop, it sounds like it could be a fairly frustrating experience and I've a fair bit to do on the bike before even getting to this so it may be one for the good folks in wolfe cycles.

8valve · 12-02-2021 6:39pm

Seth Brundle wrote: »

You should take up writing
(I'm actually reminded of the seanchai Eddie Lenihan)

You're not the first person to tell me that. Maybe, someday, when I've had enough of bicycles.

That story reminds me of a recent occurrence.

A new, high tech factory was being built, here on the outskirts of Waterford.

Part of the site clearance, for this multi-million euro project, included the bulldozing/excavation of a purported fairy ring.
The Irish company, who had the construction contract, were stalled for days, as none of their machinery operators would destroy the structure.
In the end, foreign machine operators were brought in to carry out the work, so the groundwork could continue.

The consequences of this action remain to be seen.
Superstition, mixed with a generations-old fear of the unknown are indeed a powerful motivator.

Now...back to the bikes, before we incur the wrath of the mods for going slightly off topic!!!

magicbastarder · 12-02-2021 6:52pm

that's quite famously claimed to be the reason for the demise of delorean - none of the irish contractors would bulldoze a fairy tree in the middle of the site, so an american hopped in a JCB and ripped it out. and the factory's fate was sealed.

Kamu · 12-02-2021 10:21pm

Hi everyone, I got a new JetBlack Volt Turbo trainer that arrived today and it comes preinstalled with an 11 speed cassette, my bike is a 10 speed so I will have to remove the cassette from the trainer and replace it with the cassette from my back wheel (the spacer was included with the trainer).

Two questions,

is it ok to remove the cassette from my back wheel?

and where in Dublin City Centre (and surrounding local area) could I pick up the two tools that I need?

P2C · 12-02-2021 10:37pm

I have often ran 10 speed on 11 speed and vice versa if stuck or not bothered changing cassette. I have 2 x ten speed and 1 x 11 speed bike. You will miss a gear and get the odd jump. I would try and see if it’s satisfactory. Your looking for a shimano/ sram cassettes tool nut and a chain whip. Most good LBS will sell or ring in advance to save a trip

quote="Kamu;116261520"]Hi everyone, I got a new JetBlack Volt Turbo trainer that arrived today and it comes preinstalled with an 11 speed cassette, my bike is a 10 speed so I will have to remove the cassette from the trainer and replace it with the cassette from my back wheel (the spacer was included with the trainer).

Two questions,

is it ok to remove the cassette from my back wheel?

and where in Dublin City Centre (and surrounding local area) could I pick up the two tools that I need?[/quote]

MojoMaker · 13-02-2021 11:48am

Halfords usually stock a chain whip and a lockring nut you can manipulate with a hex spanner.

CramCycle · 13-02-2021 1:56pm

Can I stick a R7000 or similar chainring on a GRX chainset. Just for the commute to give me more gears. I know it will look awful. Or am I better off just swapping out the crankset for commuting. Secondly, will the clutch do an alright job of holding the chain on a non narrow wide chainring?

07Lapierre · 13-02-2021 7:49pm

Kamu wrote: »

Hi everyone, I got a new JetBlack Volt Turbo trainer that arrived today and it comes preinstalled with an 11 speed cassette, my bike is a 10 speed so I will have to remove the cassette from the trainer and replace it with the cassette from my back wheel (the spacer was included with the trainer).

Two questions,

is it ok to remove the cassette from my back wheel?

and where in Dublin City Centre (and surrounding local area) could I pick up the two tools that I need?

Easy enough to remove your cassette, but a bit of a pain if you have to do it every time you want to use the turbo.

Buy a 10speed cassette and fit it to the turbo? Or buy a new bike with an 11speed cassette!

Kamu · 13-02-2021 9:02pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Easy enough to remove your cassette, but a bit of a pain if you have to do it every time you want to use the turbo.

Buy a 10speed cassette and fit it to the turbo? Or buy a new bike with an 11speed cassette!

Thanks everyone, I have decided to keep the eleven speed on the trainer and use my 10 speed for now and get a new 11 speed bike through the bike to work scheme, so I'll be all set!

wheelo01 · 13-02-2021 9:54pm

Caught up in the N+1 gang? It seems to be contagious

wersal gummage · 15-02-2021 6:01pm

Anyone have any knowledge, experience or strong opinions on integrated handlebar /stem??

I would be inclined to think they would be a nuisance, and it's nice to be able to swap a stem length etc.....

But they do look good.... So I guess my question is around compatibility. Can you stick an integrated bar on any bike that supports internal routing? Do you need a special headset? Or is this only a runner if the bike comes with this set up already??

Thanks very much

07Lapierre · 15-02-2021 6:07pm

If you buy an integrated Bar/stem, it usually comes with a compatible Headset cap.

They are a bit of a faff to fit, but once fitted, they do look good. Yes your correct..make sure your 100% sure of your stem length. if you get it wrong, you'll have to buy a new Bar stem and possible new cables.

Ronald Franz · 15-02-2021 9:52pm

Has anyone had issues with a magnum plus u lock before? Mine has become difficult to unlock these days. Its like the key is getting stuck and requires a minute or two of fiddling before it will turn.
Perhaps its rusting up inside? If I spray some lubricant inside will it help?

wheelo01 · 15-02-2021 9:59pm

wheelo01 wrote: »

Thanks for that manual, the 7020 doesn't have the free stroke adjustment just the reach as type17 says., I've just found a different more complete video on YouTube that explains bleeding, etc. I'll follow his steps and see how I get on.

https://youtu.be/NhTGk6b-E-k

When I had the block spacer in, I could get a really good feel, but as soon as I put the pads /wheel/rotor together again, I lost it again and he hits on it in this video. He seems to use a lot more oil than I expected (but I bought a litre, so I can mess around for quote a bit )

I'll keep playing around, thanks again.

I came up with a solution, it wasnt pretty, definitely not the correct way of doing this (and I still dont know what is , but it worked.

I did all the above again, but when I put in the new pads it was still very soft. In my odd way of thinking, I just needed an extra bit of oil tin the system o create the extra resistance.
I closed up the nut at the calipers, and the lever end, then filled the syringe, attached it to the bleed point, opened it, and added a small amount of oil, and tightened the nut.

The brakes were jin the "on" position, thought I was onto something. I then bled a tiny bit of oil out again, and the pistons were closer to engaged, but the wheel can spin freely.

As I say, it's not the right way to do it, but this seems to have worked, my cycle tomorrow will tell, I suppose.
Both brake levers stop with 2/3cm gap from handlebars.

Type 17 · 15-02-2021 10:05pm

Ronald Franz wrote: »

Has anyone had issues with a magnum plus u lock before? Mine has become difficult to unlock these days. Its like the key is getting stuck and requires a minute or two of fiddling before it will turn.
Perhaps its rusting up inside? If I spray some lubricant inside will it help?

Most U-locks' locking mechanisms start to bind up if not kept dry - try lubing it, but it might be a bit late if it has been acting up for a while.

If you have access to the them, first spray in degreaser or brake cleaner, work the key a bit (with the U-section removed), then blow though the keyhole with compressed air (to remove the degreaser/grit mixture from between the discs or pins) and then use a lubricant for locks which contains graphite.

The mechanism that throws the bolts into the U-section may also be rusty/jammed, so clean/lube that from the holes that the U fits into.

Sometimes, things are too far gone (worn from grit or jammed from rust), so if things aren't much better, get a new lock before it jams up fully and leaves you and your bike stranded.

CramCycle · 15-02-2021 10:25pm

Ronald Franz wrote: »

Has anyone had issues with a magnum plus u lock before? Mine has become difficult to unlock these days. Its like the key is getting stuck and requires a minute or two of fiddling before it will turn.
Perhaps its rusting up inside? If I spray some lubricant inside will it help?

My kryptonite done this, if you blast it with GT80 or WD40 before it seizes and remember to do it regularly, you will be fine. If however, as Type17 says, leave it too long, it will be f*cked. Left a series 2 attached to a railing and it got covered in snow a few years ago, no matter what I done, it can't be freed. It is still there, teasing me.

Thargor · 16-02-2021 11:20pm

Ronald Franz wrote: »

Has anyone had issues with a magnum plus u lock before? Mine has become difficult to unlock these days. Its like the key is getting stuck and requires a minute or two of fiddling before it will turn.
Perhaps its rusting up inside? If I spray some lubricant inside will it help?

Yes I was just about to give up on my Kryptonite Evolution the other day, its the one that rides along on my commuter attached to the seat tube right beside the rear brakes so was getting blasted with mud and salt all winter. It was getting stuck in its holder to the point I had to kick it off the bike a couple of times and the key wasnt turning.

Gave it a good rinse out with GT85 spray, literally sprayed until it ran clear instead of brown, then dropped a few drops of wet lube down the keyhole, turned the key and did it all again, it sprang back to life and is good as new. Gave the holder on the bike the same treatment, same result.

16-02-2021 11:36pm

Just don't use anything that will cause gunk to build up and eventually make it so it's hard to turn the barrel like oil. I use the dry version of the WD40 spray lube for things like that. It's around €5 in halfords.

wersal gummage · 18-02-2021 12:57pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

If you buy an integrated Bar/stem, it usually comes with a compatible Headset cap.

They are a bit of a faff to fit, but once fitted, they do look good. Yes your correct..make sure your 100% sure of your stem length. if you get it wrong, you'll have to buy a new Bar stem and possible new cables.

Just to be clear, integrated bars /stem where cables pop out bottom of stem or whatever, and then back into the normal part of the frame for internal routine , I get that.

Presumably I can't bodge a job whereby I could get the cables to go from the stem into the head tube and not be visible at all?

Roadtoad · 18-02-2021 3:41pm

Chain wheel nut remover tool: The gadget at the back of the chain wheel nut (Torx or hex at the front, pathetic slotted thingy at the back)

Has anyone any magic or homemade way of removing this? Kitchen spoon, 5c coin etc. failed, although four of the five came out nicely.
Ultimately I'll either buy a proprietary tool or fit different nut/receiver, but there's none locally.

Shimano 105, about 12 years old.

CramCycle · 18-02-2021 4:34pm

Roadtoad wrote: »

Chain wheel nut remover tool: The gadget at the back of the chain wheel nut (Torx or hex at the front, pathetic slotted thingy at the back)

Has anyone any magic or homemade way of removing this? Kitchen spoon, 5c coin etc. failed, although four of the five came out nicely.
Ultimately I'll either buy a proprietary tool or fit different nut/receiver, but there's none locally.

Shimano 105, about 12 years old.

Can you take a pic of what you want removed as i have something in my head that i don't think is what you want.

Roadtoad · 18-02-2021 5:02pm

Cramcycle, I'll get back to the bike later tonight. This is the proprietary tool, but Halfords are trying to stitch me for €20 for something like it.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-peg-spanner-tlfc21/rp-prod27808

cletus · 18-02-2021 5:10pm

Roadtoad wrote: »

Cramcycle, I'll get back to the bike later tonight. This is the proprietary tool, but Halfords are trying to stitch me for €20 for something like it.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-peg-spanner-tlfc21/rp-prod27808

What did you use for the ones that came out?

Roadtoad · 18-02-2021 5:33pm

Cletus: Friction held it while I turned the Torx side. There's always one, isn't there?
I tried making some 'soft' tools using brass, coins but to no avail.

18-02-2021 5:35pm

Roadtoad wrote: »

Chain wheel nut remover tool: The gadget at the back of the chain wheel nut (Torx or hex at the front, pathetic slotted thingy at the back)

Has anyone any magic or homemade way of removing this? Kitchen spoon, 5c coin etc. failed, although four of the five came out nicely.
Ultimately I'll either buy a proprietary tool or fit different nut/receiver, but there's none locally.

Shimano 105, about 12 years old.

I'm not 100% clear either which part you mean, have a look at this though maybe it might give you an idea. https://youtu.be/e8tZUS6bq6U

I have used this method to remove shimano cassettes with a hex bolt and vice grips. I haven't done what he did to get at the bearings though.

CrowdedHouse · 18-02-2021 5:46pm

Deleted User wrote: »

I'm not 100% clear either which part you mean, have a look at this though maybe it might give you an idea.

I think it's chain rings he's changing

cletus · 18-02-2021 5:48pm

Roadtoad wrote: »

Cletus: Friction held it while I turned the Torx side. There's always one, isn't there?
I tried making some 'soft' tools using brass, coins but to no avail.

Will the slot not take a broad headed screwdriver? That's what I've used in the past. You don't really need the little tab on the proprietary tool that sits into the bore

07Lapierre · 18-02-2021 5:50pm

Roadtoad wrote: »

Chain wheel nut remover tool: The gadget at the back of the chain wheel nut (Torx or hex at the front, pathetic slotted thingy at the back)

Has anyone any magic or homemade way of removing this? Kitchen spoon, 5c coin etc. failed, although four of the five came out nicely.
Ultimately I'll either buy a proprietary tool or fit different nut/receiver, but there's none locally.

Shimano 105, about 12 years old.

Your talking about chainring bolts?

I've used a very wide flathead screwdriver and a Hex key. As yours is 12 years old, i suspect they are not going to come off without a fight!

For the sake of €6 (and your knuckles), if it was me, id buy the correct tool for the job.

https://www.alltricks.com/F-11929-outillage/P-79250-var_chainring_bolt_wrench

cletus · 18-02-2021 5:52pm

I presume this is what you're talking about?

Roadtoad · 18-02-2021 6:01pm

Cletus: Spot on.
The bolt part prevents using a straight screwdriver mechanism across the slots, it need3 a slight belly in the middle, and I have so far failed to improvise.

cletus · 18-02-2021 6:06pm

Roadtoad wrote: »

Cletus: Spot on.
The bolt part prevents using a straight screwdriver mechanism across the slots, it need3 a slight belly in the middle, and I have so far failed to improvise.

Ok. If you can't wait for alltricks to deliver, the easiest thing to do is take a sacrificial screwdriver that fits the slot, and grind away a section in the middle of the blade till it fits.

It won't be any good for anything else, but it will do precisely that job

Edited to add: if the bolt is protruding through the bore of the nut, the alltricks tool above won't work, as it's designed with a tab that sits into the nut

magicbastarder · 18-02-2021 6:12pm

do you have an LBS you could ask to do it for you? they may only charge a fiver for it.

hesker · 19-02-2021 12:09pm

Where are you based. Someone on here surely has the tool. I know I have one but unlikely live near you

Roadtoad · 19-02-2021 2:33pm

Thanks hesker, that's exactly what happened.
One of our group PM'd me with a generous offer. I look forward to reporting a satisfactory closure to this challenge in due course.

crosstownk · 19-02-2021 11:58pm

My bike has developed a loud clicking noise on the downstroke of the left crankarm. I initially suspected the BB but as it's relatively new, I explored other possible offenders. On closer inspection it appears I've lost the thin spacer/washer that fits between the non drive side crank and the BB and the crank is making contact with the BB cup.

Where would I get this washer? I can't seem to find it on the usual websites. Maybe I'll drop down the LBS and see if they can help.

It appears that #5 has been lost during some previous maintenance.

It's also quite possible that I overtightened the plastic preload screw (1) when I last removed the cranks.

Mr. Cats · 20-02-2021 5:53pm

Am fitting a one piece carbon bar-stem on a road bike. I put in top cap cap bolt to spec’d torque and then tightened the two stem bolts that pinch stem into fork steerer. Again at the recommended torque (5nm). However the stem still rotates around the steerer without two much effort. The stem fits tightly around steerer so I’m sure they are right size for each other. Any ideas what I’m doing wrong? I thought about maybe just adding some carbon paste?

Type 17 · 20-02-2021 6:07pm

crosstownk wrote: »

My bike has developed a loud clicking noise on the downstroke of the left crankarm. I initially suspected the BB but as it's relatively new, I explored other possible offenders. On closer inspection it appears I've lost the thin spacer/washer that fits between the non drive side crank and the BB and the crank is making contact with the BB cup.

Where would I get this washer? I can't seem to find it on the usual websites. Maybe I'll drop down the LBS and see if they can help.

It appears that #5 has been lost during some previous maintenance.

It's also quite possible that I overtightened the plastic preload screw (1) when I last removed the cranks.

The washer (5) is there to ensure that the preload screw transfers the preload from the crank to the inner race of the bearing. Because it was missing, the crank was rubbing on the outer race of the bearing (extra mark on the inside of the crank).
The bearings might be damaged, because they wear quickly if not preloaded correctly (but they might be ok if you haven't done too many km).
The washer comes with the BB - a good LBS should have a tub of spare BB bits, so they should be able to provide a suitable washer.

Type 17 · 20-02-2021 6:08pm

Mr. Cats wrote: »

Am fitting a one piece carbon bar-stem on a road bike. I put in top cap cap bolt to spec’d torque and then tightened the two stem bolts that pinch stem into fork steerer. Again at the recommended torque (5nm). However the stem still rotates around the steerer without two much effort. The stem fits tightly around steerer so I’m sure they are right size for each other. Any ideas what I’m doing wrong? I thought about maybe just adding some carbon paste?

Is the stem somehow clamping on some part of the top cap? (a shoulder under the main lip?)

PS: Don't rotate the stem on a carbon steerer too much - any scoring can develop into a fault/crack.

Mr. Cats · 20-02-2021 9:07pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Is the stem somehow clamping on some part of the top cap? (a shoulder under the main lip?)

There is a small shoulder on the underside of top cap. Just to test if this might be the issue I took top cap off and clamped stem but it’s still not gripping steerer. Does this mean I can rule out top cap?

There is still quite a lot of space left to pinch on stem when I reach the 5nm. The only other thing I can think of is that ‘barrel’ of stem or else the steerer are not straight to one another? Else could it be something to do with the expander? I’ve just tightened that by hand as my torque wrench too small, but I believe it’s very tightly tightened.

Type 17 · 20-02-2021 9:18pm

Mr. Cats wrote: »

There is still quite a lot of space left to pinch on stem when I reach the 5nm.

If you're hitting 5Nm and the stem's not tight, then either the stem-bolts are wonky, or your torque tool is.

Try tightening the stem off the fork, but you don't want to crush the stem's fork-clamp out of shape (there should still be a 2-3mm gap when things are set up correctly), so put a few suitable-thickness coins into the gap at the stem bolts and tighten the bolts, to see if the torque tool works as expected - it should grip the coins and click out at what feels like 5Nm.

Do the bolts feel ok when tightened with a regular Allen key?

Tony04 · 20-02-2021 9:23pm

Carbon paste is used for a reason, carbon on carbon is splippy so if you havent already use it

Check stem steerer length vs old stem as ive sometimes found I cannot tighten headsets because lengths can vary be a couple of mms, although this shouldnt effect stem clamping.

Perhaps steerer diameter on stem is slightly to wide?

Dont overtighten and damage your lovely new bars anyway...

Mr. Cats · 20-02-2021 9:49pm

Type 17 wrote: »

If you're hitting 5Nm and the stem's not tight, then either the stem-bolts are wonky, or your torque tool is.

Sorted! Took the stem off and there is a metal barrel with two threaded holes in it that slots in on opposite side of pinch gap to stem bolts, with the stem bolts screwing into those threaded holes. I had managed to cross thread both (!) stem bolts as the barrel must have been misaligned when I was clamping the stem bolts. Luckily I could turn the barrel around and screw stem bolts into opposite side of threaded holes. It’s rock solid now.

Thanks a lot for your help!

Mr. Cats · 20-02-2021 10:22pm

Tony04 wrote: »

Dont overtighten and damage your lovely new bars anyway...

I avoided this at least in my mistakes!

crosstownk · 20-02-2021 10:45pm

Type 17 wrote: »

The washer (5) is there to ensure that the preload screw transfers the preload from the crank to the inner race of the bearing. Because it was missing, the crank was rubbing on the outer race of the bearing (extra mark on the inside of the crank).
The bearings might be damaged, because they wear quickly if not preloaded correctly (but they might be ok if you haven't done too many km).
The washer comes with the BB - a good LBS should have a tub of spare BB bits, so they should be able to provide a suitable washer.

Thanks. That's exactly what I suspected. I refitted the crank but didn't tighten the preload as much as I normally would. The click has disappeared but I suspect that will only be temporary unless I get a replacement washer. I'll call to the LBS in the next couple of days.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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