Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

electric shower not working - no light on

Options
2»

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Barr wrote: »
    Hi All

    I have a Mira Zest that is about 6 years old.

    Its been giving trouble the last few weeks in that sometime when you try and turn the dial it was not working at all. It could take 5 or 6 attempts before any water would come out.

    Now its not coming on at all.

    Mira are looking for €80 plus parts. Is it worth the money given the age?

    Should I just get an electrician to replace it with a whole new unit and bypass Mira altogether?

    What ye think.

    Thanks

    It could be something very simple. Again it could be the pullchord if thats the type of isolator you have, or a connection problem in the shower. Does the pullchord have a neon indicator? Is it staying on when you try to operate the shower?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    evosteo wrote: »
    is it not up to them as grown adults to make that decision themselves?????

    if there was something wrong with, lets say the plumbing in my house, id also try research the answer to the problem.

    however if i wasnt comfortable doing something id get somebody who did know what they were doing to do the job right.

    i dont think anybody tells people to do anything, only just speculative recomendations based on information and experience.

    that is all :D

    I can see his point as well though, someone that wouldnt normally have a go might when they see the testing ideas. But again, these testing methods will be shown somewhere in an electrical forum so people should act responsibly alright as adults. When i mention experiments with multimeters and cups of water:eek:, its towards sparks i was mentioning it. As the results can be surprising and informative.


  • Registered Users Posts: 414 ✭✭DeDoc


    Thanks to all!

    Switch replaced for 13 euro and shower back in operation :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    DeDoc wrote: »
    Thanks to all!

    Switch replaced for 13 euro and shower back in operation :D

    The invoice is in the post from evosteo:D. Should take the old one apart like he suggested and let us all see.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,981 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    Bruthal wrote: »
    Id say its more likely the mechanics of the mechanism is sticking, shower switches rarely actualy break the load, so if they are switched a few times on load they should be well able for that as they are rated to break such a load.

    The fact the multimeter read 85 volts on the load side of pullchord means the neutral contact in the pullchord switch is actually completely open circuited. If you test between live and a now completely isolated length of neutral wire thats connected into the switched off shower then 85 volts would easily be read.

    If you get the removed old switch and use continuity from load to supply on live, then on neutral, id say the neutral will show open circuit with the switch in the on position.

    Having similar issues with our shower.

    Supply reads 237v
    Load reads 0v when isolated and 58v when not isolated

    Continuity across live looks good but neutral is showing as not connected.

    Guessing it's the switch?

    Edit: also when the switch is on and we press the power button on the shower it has a faint flicker of light for a nanosecond and then disappears


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 3,981 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    Apparently the answer is yes. Changed the switch and it's working


Advertisement