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Assembly

  • 30-05-2020 1:22pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭


    I am assembling a bloody play tower today.

    A jungle gym jungle club play house

    I am laying out all the parts to make sure all is ok.

    See this link.

    https://imgur.com/a/Rtw6c0N

    The first page is fine, easy to understand. Only has 1 column that details the quantities of each piece of wood.

    I can’t make For the life of me make sense of the second page. It has 3 columns with different figures and I can’t make it out. Can any of ye?


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,866 ✭✭✭Jacovs


    There should be a total of 54 (15 + 18 + 21) planks all with a length of 124cm. Of those 54 there are 15 that are between 13-14.5cm high; 18 that are between 11-13cm high and the last 21 that are between 9-11cm high.

    Do the same for the 110cm, 94cm and 60cm planks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Jacovs wrote: »
    There should be a total of 54 (15 + 18 + 21) planks all with a length of 124cm. Of those 54 there are 15 that are between 13-14.5cm high; 18 that are between 11-13cm high and the last 21 that are between 9-11cm high.

    Do the same for the 110cm, 94cm and 60cm planks.

    THANK YOU.

    This is the thing.

    There is only 21 of the 124 length
    8 of the 110 length
    10 of the 94 length
    18 of the 60 length.

    The overall diagram seems to indicate way less of the 124’s are needed.

    https://imgur.com/a/SDBrGGT


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,866 ✭✭✭Jacovs


    obi604 wrote: »
    THANK YOU.

    This is the thing.

    There is only 21 of the 124 length
    8 of the 110 length
    10 of the 94 length
    18 of the 60 length.

    Looks like you were left short then unfortunately.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Jacovs wrote: »
    Looks like you were left short then unfortunately.


    Looking at tj The overall diagram - it seems to indicate that I only need 14 of the 124cm length

    https://imgur.com/a/SDBrGGT

    Manual here:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2E5za4BmnrfX0kyTEJNcnpuUU0/view


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,866 ✭✭✭Jacovs


    I see what you mean about only 14 of the 124 needed.

    I can only suggest before starting, you lay out the pieces for each step in the instructions and see if you have everything needed.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Jacovs wrote: »
    I see what you mean about only 14 of the 124 needed.

    I can only suggest before starting, you lay out the pieces for each step in the instructions and see if you have everything needed.


    Grand. Will do. Thanks !!!

    But that page to me does not seem very valid.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,866 ✭✭✭Jacovs


    Numbers dont make sense at all. But hopefully its all there and throw up a pic when its done.

    How much was it and from who, if you can say?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Jacovs wrote: »
    Numbers dont make sense at all. But hopefully its all there and throw up a pic when its done.

    How much was it and from who, if you can say?

    570 from a fuel merchant lad who just delivers. We got it quicker via him, otherwise a 4 week wait.

    Getting there now with it. Slow work!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    obi604 wrote: »
    Grand. Will do. Thanks !!!

    But that page to me does not seem very valid.
    On page 5 the 124 cm long boards come in 3 different widths
    if 14.5mm you'll need 15 of them
    13 mm you need 18
    or if 11 mm you'll need 21,
    it looks like you got the 11mm ones.
    The same with the 94cms and the 60cms ones,
    The narrower the boards, the more you'll need.

    I think!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    On page 5 the 124 cm long boards come in 3 different widths
    if 14.5mm you'll need 15 of them
    13 mm you need 18
    or if 11 mm you'll need 21,
    it looks like you got the 11mm ones.
    The same with the 94cms and the 60cms ones,
    The narrower the boards, the more you'll need.

    I think!!


    Thank you. They don’t make it easy !!!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thank you. They don’t make it easy !!!

    Did you get it sorted?
    A pic would be good.
    It looks like a good piece of kit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 258 ✭✭krazyklown


    sorry to hijack the thread but can i ask where you got this and how it cost? Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Did you get it sorted?
    A pic would be good.
    It looks like a good piece of kit.


    Gave up for today. Slowly getting there, doing it on my own so tricky enough.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    krazyklown wrote: »
    sorry to hijack the thread but can i ask where you got this and how it cost? Thanks.




    570 from a fuel merchant lad who just delivers it, kins of like a reseller I guess. In Galway. We got it quicker via him, otherwise a 4 week wait.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Did you get it sorted?
    A pic would be good.
    It looks like a good piece of kit.



    The stages throughout the day

    https://imgur.com/a/KKzsjl4


    Looking back on it now, looks easy ‘how could it take all day’ etc. But it’s painfully slow on your own and trying to understand the bloody manual.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,049 ✭✭✭GinSoaked


    Wow that takes "Some assembly required" to a whole new level.

    ffs short of cutting the wood to length and bundling it up what have the manufacturers done?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    GinSoaked wrote: »
    Wow that takes "Some assembly required" to a whole new level.

    ffs short of cutting the wood to length and bundling it up what have the manufacturers done?


    Cutting the woods to length - are you taking the p1ss ;))

    Some of it is not even cut to length.


    I had to cut a good few pieces of wood to size with my own saw. Maybe sawing off 5-10cm here and there. Then even having to drill 24.5mm holes for the ladder rungs. No pilot holes whatsoever anywhere. loads of measuring. Hardship. And not even finished yet


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,049 ✭✭✭GinSoaked


    Expected the pieces to be predrilled :eek:

    If you don't predrill all the holes near the edges you risk splitting the timber particularly if the timber is really dry.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    obi604 wrote: »
    Looking at tj The overall diagram - it seems to indicate that I only need 14 of the 124cm length

    https://imgur.com/a/SDBrGGT

    Manual here:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2E5za4BmnrfX0kyTEJNcnpuUU0/view



    Very last instruction on page 11. Step 8 E.

    Telling me to drill a screw in to the wood And then in to the ladder steps. (I think) The ladder steps are made of steel and the bloody screw won’t penetrate it, just goes blunt. Double checked and it is the screw I’m supposed to use.

    Annoying.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    GinSoaked wrote: »
    Expected the pieces to be predrilled :eek:

    If you don't predrill all the holes near the edges you risk splitting the timber particularly if the timber is really dry.


    Yeah. I had a couple of issues with splitting. I Try to stay away From the grain. I don’t understand your tip.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,049 ✭✭✭GinSoaked


    obi604 wrote: »
    Yeah. I had a couple of issues with splitting. I Try to stay away From the grain. I don’t understand your tip.

    If you drill a hole in the wood near the end grain before you put the screw through the wood won't split provided its the right size. You only predrill the timber you are fixing you shouldn't need to predrill the heavier uprights. You can but then I'd use a smaller drill bit.

    I often predrill holes near end grain you want a drill bit just a bit smaller than the diameter of the screw and a smaller drill bit again if you are predrilling into the main uprights so there is still plenty of wood left for the screw thread to bite into.

    On the 5 x 45 screws (Quantity 263 on the parts list) I'd predrill with a 3.5 mm drill bit which is on the tools list but might also see if a 2.5mm drill bit would suffice but thats just me.

    Edit> Just looking at your pictures again you certainly have a timber jungle :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    GinSoaked wrote: »
    If you drill a hole in the wood near the end grain before you put the screw through the wood won't split provided its the right size. You only predrill the timber you are fixing you shouldn't need to predrill the heavier uprights. You can but then I'd use a smaller drill bit.

    I often predrill holes near end grain you want a drill bit just a bit smaller than the diameter of the screw and a smaller drill bit again if you are predrilling into the main uprights so there is still plenty of wood left for the screw thread to bite into.

    On the 5 x 45 screws (Quantity 263 on the parts list) I'd predrill with a 3.5 mm drill bit which is on the tools list but might also see if a 2.5mm drill bit would suffice but thats just me.

    Edit> Just looking at your pictures again you certainly have a timber jungle :D

    Thanks for that!!

    Will add more time to the build :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Q for ye. In regard to this image.

    https://imgur.com/a/vQFK9A4


    What are the 2 different parts for. Is one for drilling and another for screwing?

    Why would you use one over the other, is it just overkill or a waste etc?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,049 ✭✭✭GinSoaked


    Handy little tool but I suspect it might be a little under powered for your use in this particular project.

    Ideal for going from predrilling holes to screwing if the chuck can be swapped over quickly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    GinSoaked wrote: »
    Handy little tool but I suspect it might be a little under powered for your use in this particular project.

    Ideal for going from predrilling holes to screwing if the chuck can be swapped over quickly.
    Can the hss chuck be put on while the screwdriver bit is still in, ?
    If so, 'tis handy indeed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Can the hss chuck be put on while the screwdriver bit is still in, ?
    If so, 'tis handy indeed.



    It can ya.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,049 ✭✭✭GinSoaked


    obi604 wrote: »
    It can ya.

    So provided you have a second battery it would be great for what you are assembling.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    GinSoaked wrote: »
    Handy little tool but I suspect it might be a little under powered for your use in this particular project.

    Ideal for going from predrilling holes to screwing if the chuck can be swapped over quickly.



    I bought this today on a whim in Lidl. As co-incidentally, my trusty 18v cordless ‘worx’ that I bought in Argos about 10 years ago died overnight, as in just won’t charge the battery. So picked this Lidl one up on impulse.

    Must say it’s a dinger of a thing. Happy with it.
    The feckin Playhouse is about 90% done. Has me driven mad at this stage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    I am putting up the XL play house from jungle gym this weekend and I am finding the instructions are loose guide only and the tolerances can be laughable with the timber. The build process is also a joke so I have had to build it completely different to the instructions. I hope I get it done tomorrow but there is so much problem solving its tough to get going at pace.

    514894.jpeg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    krissovo wrote: »
    I am putting up the XL play house from jungle gym this weekend and I am finding the instructions are loose guide only and the tolerances can be laughable with the timber. The build process is also a joke so I have had to build it completely different to the instructions. I hope I get it done tomorrow but there is so much problem solving its tough to get going at pace.

    514894.jpeg

    Oh good jaysus - an XL

    it’s taking me all my time with the small version so XL be carnage.

    I think I’ve spent more time reading instructions and trying to figure them out than putting the bloody thing together.

    For example, The roof in their instructions is completely flat and the slats just rest against each other, however In reality - the roof slays I got have grooves and you have to kinda slot them in to each other. (I think)

    I see you are using clamps, I used them too - a god send on your own.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    obi604 wrote: »
    I hear ya !!!
    For example, The roof in their instructions is completely flat and the slats just rest against each other, however In reality - the roof slays I got have grooves and you have to kinda slot them in to each other. (I think)

    I see you are using clamps, I used them too - a god send on your own.

    That’s the big issue I have, the instructions use tongue and grove and what’s has been delivered are slats. The house and roof both use it and its been tough trying to figure out how to lay it so it does not hold water and provide some structural integrity. The roof on the XL has no real structure and it basically rests on 4x2 timber from the roof section and theses slats in the house. I have had to design my own apex as it had no strength and we are in a windy area.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    krissovo wrote: »
    That’s the big issue I have, the instructions use tongue and grove and what’s has been delivered are slats. The house and roof both use it and its been tough trying to figure out how to lay it so it does not hold water and provide some structural integrity. The roof on the XL has no real structure and it basically rests on 4x2 timber from the roof section and theses slats in the house. I have had to design my own apex as it had no strength and we are in a windy area.


    So for me, the roof instructions are totally flat slats.

    What was delivered was tongue and groove. And you kinda have to reverse it every second slat. The groove is not the same the whole way.

    I got a bit lazy on the roof and only used 2 screws per slat, one each side (due to the Awkward positioning of the Tongue and groove scenario).

    Do you think I need to go back and put 2 more on end of the roof slats?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    From the photos your area looks quite sheltered so you should be ok and the roof is quite short. I would add a second screw to the bottom timber on each side just to be safe as that would take the most stress.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    krissovo wrote: »
    From the photos your area looks quite sheltered so you should be ok and the roof is quite short. I would add a second screw to the bottom timber on each side just to be safe as that would take the most stress.

    Yeah, Tis sheltered alright.

    Thanks. I thought If anything I would need to put the 2 screws on the very top?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Finally finished the Cnut’in thing ;)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,049 ✭✭✭GinSoaked


    Nice job. Anywhere you can write a review :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    obi604 wrote: »
    Finally finished the Cnut’in thing ;)
    Well done, you.
    lovely job.
    have you still got to anchor it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Well done, you.
    lovely job.
    have you still got to anchor it?


    Thanks. 3 day job. I know It looks easy and it probably is a lot easier than I made It, but hard when you are on your own trying to follow weird instructions.
    Thanks to all of ye for the help.

    I didn’t do the anchoring yet. Looks a bit of a pain. SeemA you have to hit a metal stake in to the ground flush with the upright and then screw the stake to the upright. Not too sure yet how to do as need to hit down metal stake right next to the uprights. Will attempt tomorrow.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thanks. 3 day job. I know It looks easy and it probably is a lot easier than I made It, but hard when you are on your own trying to follow weird instructions.
    Thanks to all of ye for the help.

    I didn’t do the anchoring yet. Looks a bit of a pain. SeemA you have to hit a metal stake in to the ground flush with the upright and then screw the stake to the upright. Not too sure yet how to do as need to hit down metal stake right next to the uprights. Will attempt tomorrow.
    I think the advise is spikes are buried in concrete,could be wrong.
    By the way, were all those planks and boards marked or numbered for you,
    or did you have to measure to find out which was which?
    I couldn't understand that min-max measurements at all.
    Why could they not just cut the boards to fit the one you bought?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    I think the advise is spikes are buried in concrete,could be wrong.
    By the way, were all those planks and boards marked or numbered for you,
    or did you have to measure to find out which was which?
    I couldn't understand that min-max measurements at all.
    Why could they not just cut the boards to fit the one you bought?



    Do you mean spikes are only for a concrete sceanrio. ie. to set them in fresh concrete?

    No, none of the planks or boards were numbered, had to measure them and divide them up myself, they were all
    Mixed in together

    Yeah, the min max thing is confusing and annoying. If instructions were clearer, I would have finished hours earlier.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    obi604 wrote: »
    Do you mean spikes are only for a concrete sceanrio. ie. to set them in fresh concrete?

    No, none of the planks or boards were numbers, had to measure them and divide them up myself, they were all
    Mixed in together

    Yeah, the min max thing is confusing and annoying. If instructions were clearer, I would have finished hours earlier.
    Page 25/26 of your instructions shows concrete poured around 2 of the spikes.
    That would make sense , as kids tend to congregate on the higher level,
    and, though you say you are sheltered, better be safe I'd say.

    A slide down into a paddling pool ! lucky kids.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Page 25/26 of your instructions shows concrete poured around 2 of the spikes.
    That would make sense , as kids tend to congregate on the higher level,
    and, though you say you are sheltered, better be safe I'd say.

    A slide down into a paddling pool ! lucky kids.


    Hmmm. So ideally I should dig a hole and pour concrete - messy.

    Or would I get away with hammering the spike in to the GRASS only and securing it to The upright.

    Lucky is right ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    obi604 wrote: »
    Hmmm. So ideally I should dig a hole and pour concrete - messy.

    Or would I get away with hammering the spike in to the GRASS only and securing it to The upright.

    Lucky is right ;)

    Ideally?
    Yes, but your call, someone on here might have experience of these.
    A friend built his own from plans, and filled the base with concrete.
    But he's on the west coast.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    Ideally?
    Yes, but your call, someone on here might have experience of these.
    A friend built his own from plans, and filled the base with concrete.
    But he's on the west coast.


    Issue is I am in a rented house. Landlord has no probs with play house itself, but not sure about digging holes and pouring concrete.

    It also says to anchor the bottom of the slide with 2 of these metal spikes - but I won’t be doing this I think.

    Thinking out loud, wonder could I use **all the 4 spikes** to anchor the main playhouse Structure and just anchor them in the grass.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭celticbhoy27


    krissovo wrote: »
    I am putting up the XL play house from jungle gym this weekend and I am finding the instructions are loose guide only and the tolerances can be laughable with the timber. The build process is also a joke so I have had to build it completely different to the instructions. I hope I get it done tomorrow but there is so much problem solving its tough to get going at pace.

    514894.jpeg

    Mind me asking where you got the ladder and what height it is? Looking for something similar


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    Mind me asking where you got the ladder and what height it is? Looking for something similar

    I got it from Godirectaccess.ie, its 5.6 meters in total, gets wobbly past 4 meters but Its great for the Christmas decorations and real flexible.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    obi604 wrote: »
    Finally finished the Cnut’in thing ;)

    Looks a very tidy job, well done.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    obi604 wrote: »
    Hmmm. So ideally I should dig a hole and pour concrete - messy.

    Or would I get away with hammering the spike in to the GRASS only and securing it to The upright.

    Lucky is right ;)

    I am going to pour in a bag or 2 of postcrete (its €6 in B&Q at the moment) so no messing about and then set the anchors. Then back fill with dirt for about 6 to 10 cm and then the grass sod. When you leave you can just cut the anchor a few cm's below the grass and it looks fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    My construction is just about done, I have been cursing jungle gym all day. Stupidly I added a tube slide which has more bolts than a big bolt factory and a pig to line up but the kids just had a wild 30 minutes of pure joy and exercise so worth it in the end, especially as we bought this instead of a summer holiday this year.

    It was a bit of a mistake letting them slide as now a couple of the legs has sunk and level is a bit off but I will be putting in anchors over the next few days if work allows.

    514975.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭obi604


    krissovo wrote: »
    Looks a very tidy job, well done.


    Thank you.


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