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New Reillo G5X stops burning with cover on

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    #32
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    RocoH wrote: »
    From a user point of view I dont want them indoor either ....being able to hear the burn coming on every couple of minutes just remindes me of my kerosene getting lower and another fill & bill getting closer!
    Out of sight out of mind is best![/QUOTE

    :D:D:D:D:D:D


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    #33
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,229 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    RocoH wrote: »
    From a user point of view I dont want them indoor either ....being able to hear the burn coming on every couple of minutes just remindes me of my kerosene getting lower and another fill & bill getting closer!
    Out of sight out of mind is best!
    That type -when properly sealed and setup- are one of the quietest available.
    On the other point, at least it's cheaper than usual now.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #34
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,468 ✭✭✭John.G


    I have the Heat Pac (outdoor) model with the same burner and I have never had any problem with the main baffle door gasket in renewing it after boiler clean, I just buy the gasket which I think is 20mm thick and gives a good seal all round after just nipping up the four nuts, I might give it a further nip up a few days later. There is no gasket where the burner is inserted in the flange, just a single nut, one would think that there might be a gasket here in the room sealed model.


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    #35
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,229 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    John.G wrote: »
    I have the Heat Pac (outdoor) model with the same burner and I have never had any problem with the main baffle door gasket in renewing it after boiler clean, I just buy the gasket which I think is 20mm thick and gives a good seal all round after just nipping up the four nuts, I might give it a further nip up a few days later. There is no gasket where the burner is inserted in the flange, just a single nut, one would think that there might be a gasket here in the room sealed model.
    There is a fire board gasket between the burner flange and the boiler.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #36
    RocoH
    Registered Users Posts: 38 ✭RocoH


    ....which was broken and brittle in my case so I replaced with new flange and board gasket that came with new burner.....didnt stop it leaking smoke out before fix with heat resistant sealant.


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    #37
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,229 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    RocoH wrote: »
    ....which was broken and brittle in my case so I replaced with new flange and board gasket that came with new burner.....didnt stop it leaking smoke out before fix with heat resistant sealant.

    Sometimes the flange warps and also needs replacing.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #38
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,468 ✭✭✭John.G


    Wearb wrote: »
    There is a fire board gasket between the burner flange and the boiler.

    I am talking where the burner is inserted in this flange, I can see where there is some escape of gases here, this is a face to face seal with one burner retaining nut.


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    #39
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,229 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    John.G wrote: »
    I am talking where the burner is inserted in this flange, I can see where there is some escape of gases here, this is a face to face seal with one burner retaining nut.

    Some burners have a large o ring there. But when there is no warping (or warped or dirty baffles causing a restriction) the mating of the surfaces create quite a good seal.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #40
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    you may have a very slight leak on a boilerhouse or a heatpac boiler so small that you wont pick it up without a flugas analyser

    with the room sealed hideaway once the cover is put on then it really concentrates the leak as its no longer getting clean air

    if you put the probe from your fga through the cover for the reset button it becomes very obvious as the co2 reading drops quite quick from 20.9%


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    #41
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,468 ✭✭✭John.G


    Does putting a joint/gasket between the burner/flange make a big difference? or is the burner flange the main culprit, in your opinion.


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    #42
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    John.G wrote: »
    Does putting a joint/gasket between the burner/flange make a big difference? or is the burner flange the main culprit, in your opinion.

    imho john with the one mounting point for the burner if overtightened the burner kicks out at the bottom

    sometimes even with a new flange and gasket you will get a minimal escape of gasses this is where the flugas analyser is worth its weight in gold when set to room test it can pick up these leaks

    ht silicone around the burner head does the trick as there is no gasket i know of to go between the burner and front of flange mounting its not ideal and doesn't sound very pro but it does the trick and once left undisturbed is usually still in place at next service


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