Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

Myrddin · 12-03-2011 10:53am

Steve SI wrote: »

Just picked up an American Panasonic 3DO FZ1 for free. It was bought on eBay a while ago by my brother but he plugged it into an plug adapter and powered it up without a power inverter so it made a "bang" noise according to him and an electrical burning smell.
So he fried it. :eek:
I could kill him for doing it but what can ya do.

My question is can it be saved in any way or do I now have a very retro door stop?

.

My advice is to open it up & see it there's a seperate board for power regulation, or whether the whole thing is one one board. It should be where the power chord comes in from the outside, take a picture even.

If it's a seperate board, you may be able to salvage something, if not then its prob dead.

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 1:52am

EnterNow wrote: »

My advice is to open it up & see it there's a seperate board for power regulation, or whether the whole thing is one one board. It should be where the power chord comes in from the outside, take a picture even.

If it's a seperate board, you may be able to salvage something, if not then its prob dead.

Well I just opened up the 3DO. I don't see anything burnt inside and the fuse is blown. Is it possible it's just the fuse that died? I don't have a power inverter thing so I cant test it out with a new fuse

Looks like I got a free game anyway as I can see a disc in the tray.

What do you think?

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o1s1n · 13-03-2011 2:07am

Well from the looks of things, the PSU is away from the main board. So I would imagine if the PSU fried then the main board should hopefully be okay.

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 2:25am

Looking at this video he removes the PSU completely. Now, would I be able to put in a psu from a normal PAL 3DO or is that crazy talk?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S1b9YS09gc

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o1s1n · 13-03-2011 2:44am

You can switch the internal PSU for consoles alright. Enternow was showing me how while he was modding my Dreamcast. It's a good way of getting around the need for step downs on consoles that have internal PSUs.

The main problem with that being is you have to find another console with a working doner PSU. Although I think you said you had several 3DOs so that shouldn't be an issue.

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 2:52am

o1s1n wrote: »

You can switch the internal PSU for consoles alright. Enternow was showing me how while he was modding my Dreamcast. It's a good way of getting around the need for step downs on consoles that have internal PSUs.

The main problem with that being is you have to find another console with a working doner PSU. Although I think you said you had several 3DOs so that shouldn't be an issue.

Yeah, the other 3DO's are all working though. I could take a psu from a pal 50hz 3do and drop it into the USA 60hz 3do as that would then be a better 3do as it would run at 60hz and not have the bars around the edge etc.

What do you think?

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 2:52am

I appreciate the help by the way, I dont think I mentioned that

o1s1n · 13-03-2011 3:17am

Steve SI wrote: »

Yeah, the other 3DO's are all working though. I could take a psu from a pal 50hz 3do and drop it into the USA 60hz 3do as that would then be a better 3do as it would run at 60hz and not have the bars around the edge etc.

What do you think?

Sounds like the best thing to do. Even just to see if the main board is still working.

Although, before doing that, I'd also try putting a new fuse in there too. I would say it's highly likely the whole PSU is gone if the wrong voltage was sent into it, but it's worth a shot.

Just one other thing, I'm going by what I've heard for other consoles. I know Enternow was saying you could replace a Saturn or Dreamcast PSU this way.

I'm pretty certain it would be the same for the 3DO..as the only thing the PSU is doing is taking the power in from the mains and converting it to run the console. The boards should be taking the same power, no matter what region.

But you might want to do a bit of googling just to make sure.

Then again, the console is currently dead anyway..so I guess you've nothing to lose!

Steve SI wrote: »

I appreciate the help by the way, I dont think I mentioned that

No worries! I've gotten plenty of help here too over the years. Glad to pass the info on.

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 3:30am

Well I stripped down the 3DO, so for anyone who's in to this sort of thing here's the main board.

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Myrddin · 13-03-2011 10:42am

As o1s1n said,

1) Replace the fuse first
2) Search for a replacement psu board if no joy
3) Try a donor psu from a pal saturn (only if the connections are identical where it connects to the motherboard)

Good pics, hard to find pics of 3DO internals so they're a nice reference if anyting.

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 3:01pm

EnterNow wrote: »

As o1s1n said,

1) Replace the fuse first
2) Search for a replacement psu board if no joy
3) Try a donor psu from a pal saturn (only if the connections are identical where it connects to the motherboard)

Good pics, hard to find pics of 3DO internals so they're a nice reference if anyting.

Thanks

Just opened up a saturn and the psu is completely different unfortunately.

Myrddin · 13-03-2011 3:14pm

Steve SI wrote: »

Thanks

Just opened up a saturn and the psu is completely different unfortunately.

A Saturn PSU?? Oh god don't mind my ramblings I meant a donor 3DO psu!

Have you replaced the fuse yet?

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 3:17pm

EnterNow wrote: »

A Saturn PSU?? Oh god don't mind my ramblings I meant a donor 3DO psu! Have you replaced the fuse yet?

Not to worry, at least I know what the inside of a saturn looks like now

Not replaced the fuse yet but I will. I don't have a power inverter so cant even test it to see if it runs with a new fuse at 110v. How much are those step down inverter things anyway?

o1s1n · 13-03-2011 3:20pm

You can get a perfectly fine step down transformer for 10-15 euro. They're cheap enough things.

Myrddin · 13-03-2011 3:21pm

Steve SI wrote: »

Not to worry, at least I know what the inside of a saturn looks like now

Not replaced the fuse yet but I will. I don't have a power inverter so cant even test it to see if it runs with a new fuse at 110v. How much are those step down inverter things anyway?

Not too sure man, I really hate them things. The problem here is the rarity of broken PAL 3DO's that you could pillage a PSU from, you should try one from one of your working units just to be sure before you spend any money.

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 3:26pm

EnterNow wrote: »

Not too sure man, I really hate them things. The problem here is the rarity of broken PAL 3DO's that you could pillage a PSU from, you should try one from one of your working units just to be sure before you spend any money.

Ok, opened up one of my working PAL 3DO's. The PSU is mostly the same except for 1 thing, the American 3DO has an extra red cable coming from the psu that connects to the motherboard, I guess this is the ground wire as its an american plug.

Myrddin · 13-03-2011 3:41pm

Steve SI wrote: »

Ok, opened up one of my working PAL 3DO's. The PSU is mostly the same except for 1 thing, the American 3DO has an extra red cable coming from the psu that connects to the motherboard, I guess this is the ground wire as its an american plug.

Hmm, it's possible. Your really need a multimeter to be sure though. Have you got one? Until you verify that, I wouldn't risk it.

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 4:06pm

Ok, swapped in the pal psu and replaced the fuse with the one in the pal 3do as the fuses I have are way to big to fit in the fuse slot. Powered up and it works great

It displays in black and white but thats because I have it hooked up to my commodore monitor and that only does 50hz and not 60hz. Will test it on tv later. And as I knew anyway the borders are now removed from my games which was always annoying on all the PAL 3DO's.

Another difference is that my PAL 3do only has passive cooling so no fans whereas the American one has a fan. Although the American 3DO is an older revision than my PAL 3DO's so I'd say they removed the fan in the later USA 3DO's as well.

Now all I need is a donor pal 3do thats broken but that has a working PSU.

o1s1n · 13-03-2011 4:11pm

Hurrah! Nice one. I'd say it'll be hard enough to find that doner console, but at least you now have an NTSC one running at 60hz full speed and full screen

Myrddin · 13-03-2011 4:11pm

Steve SI wrote: »

Ok, swapped in the pal psu and replaced the fuse with the one in the pal 3do as the fuses I have are way to big to fit in the fuse slot. Powered up and it works great
It displays in black and white but thats because I have it hooked up to my commodore monitor and that only does 50hz and not 60hz. Will test it on tv later. And as I knew anyway the borders are now removed from my games which was always annoying on all the PAL 3DO's.

Another difference is that my PAL 3do only has passive cooling so no fans whereas the American one has a fan. Although the American 3DO is an older revision than my PAL 3DO's so I'd say they removed the fan in the later USA 3DO's as well.

Now all I need is a donor pal 3do thats broken but that has a working PSU.

Good result, a testiment to older build quality. Try that with a modern console :rolleyes:

I'll keep my eyes out for a replacement psu anyway

Steve X2 · 13-03-2011 4:20pm

Thanks for all the help lads. As you can probably tell I'm a big 3DO fan so was very happy to be able to resurrect this fallen hero

I've put a wanted ad on the trade section for the psu but would say I'll be waiting a long time to find what I need here or anywhere else. So if you do come across a psu let me know.

I've photographed the internals of the 3DO in detail if anyone ever needs them for reference etc. Is there anywhere to stick them for people here rather than just posting them here?

o1s1n · 13-03-2011 4:25pm

How about over in the console modding forum? Technically you did mod this with a different power supply

There are always loads of pictures of console innards over there. I'm sure they'd be appreciated.

Myrddin · 13-03-2011 4:27pm

o1s1n wrote: »

How about over in the console modding forum? Technically you did mod this with a different power supply

There are always loads of pictures of console innards over there. I'm sure they'd be appreciated.

Yeah I guess it is technically a mod, so if you want to create a thread that documents the procedure with the pics, I can make sure it's archived properly then. You might have to start from scratch, take a pic of the borked psu, explain what happened, show how you removed it, installation of the new one etc etc...but those are good references to have for others

Optimus Prime · 15-03-2011 12:07pm

GameGear is working perfect thanks a million, there is a noticable improvement in the screen too i think. Going to give it a good clean now and replace the screen. maybe swap the buttons around from the other one if they are better. Thanks again.

Optimus Prime · 01-04-2011 4:21pm

Does anyone know where i can get electrical wire for wiring up arcade buttons, or for electronics etc.??

Steve X2 · 01-04-2011 6:52pm

keithgeo wrote: »

Does anyone know where i can get electrical wire for wiring up arcade buttons, or for electronics etc.??

If your looking for a shop in Dublin Maplins will probably have way you want.

Optimus Prime · 01-04-2011 8:27pm

Cheers Steve, i just attempted my first real retro repair.

A Spare Astro Wars i have. It powered on, played a bit of music then faded away. no image on screen.

I removed all the wires, - From Batterys to power in to board and added new wire i had lying around (which is why i need more) from the battery to board skipping the ac power on the side.

I also replaced the wire going from a round disc (sound?) to the board.

The music now plays about 2 seconds longer then fades to nothing haha. still i was happy enough it was still making noise after i messed around with it.. im sure it was obvious but i thought skipping the ac and going direct from the batterys to the board was a brainwave on my part haha..

EDIT: Heres some images for the craic..

pic 1 removed the first wire off the battery, this seem to have fluid leaked all over it, it was kinda green, forgot to take a pic before i removed it.

pic 2 before i did stuff, black and red wire from the batterys, to the ac, to the board.

pic 3 the black wire gone, a new sexy pink wire replacing it!

pic 4 - see ya later red, youve also been replaced by pink. you can also see what im assuming is the sound thing under the cushion in the middle.

pic 5 the sound thing with old wires.

pic 6 new wires on the sound thing! it was near impossible to keep these soldered on here, they kept falling off! is there some sort of magic solder that keep wires on these things?

pic 7 the sound thing back in the board with a bit o solder on the back

Pic 8 here she is, two hours later, new wires, and still not working!

Right, im off to watch stargate!

Myrddin · 01-04-2011 8:33pm

keithgeo wrote: »

Cheers Steve, i just attempted my first real retro repair.

A Spare Astro Wars i have. It powered on, played a bit of music then faded away. no image on screen.

I removed all the wires, - From Batterys to power in to board and added new wire i had lying around (which is why i need more) from the battery to board skipping the ac power on the side.

I also replaced the wire going from a round disc (sound?) to the board.

The music now plays about 2 seconds longer then fades to nothing haha. still i was happy enough it was still making noise after i messed around with it.. im sure it was obvious but i thought skipping the ac and going direct from the batterys to the board was a brainwave on my part haha..

You'll be jtagging 360's before you know it

Sounds like a dry cap on the board

Optimus Prime · 01-04-2011 8:49pm

haha im just glad its still making the dying sound it was before i started.. thats 2 for 2 now on my repair butchering haha.. a gamegear and astrowars repair fail.

maybe someday ill go at something and actually fix it!! I updated my post above with some pics for the craic. you know, to chronicle my failure haha.

oh and question for you, the original wire was a lot thinner ie it only had one metal wire in it, where as the wire i used had a few metal threads in it. does that make a big difference?

Optimus Prime · 01-04-2011 8:50pm

haha im just glad its still making the dying sound it was before i started.. thats 2 for 2 now on my repair butchering haha.. a gamegear and astrowars repair fail.

maybe someday ill go at something and actually fix it!! I updated my post above with some pics for the craic. you know, to chronicle my failure haha.

oh and question for you, the original wire was a lot thinner ie it only had one metal wire in it, where as the wire i used had a few metal threads in it. does that make a big difference??

Myrddin · 01-04-2011 10:57pm

NAh the thicker wire won't make any odds in this case, & I wouldn't worry about failure here either. I had a stab at repairing a Puck Man for Andrew & couldn't for the life of me get it to power on even

My list of modding fatalities includes x2 PS2's, x1 Xbox, x2 Dreamcasts, x1 Megadrive 2...and one or two others if I think really hard. Thats how you learn though, & the mistakes I made in the past won't be repeated so nothings truly wasted.

Myrddin · 04-04-2011 8:06pm

I done a cap kit on Andrews AMiga 500 this evening, the one with the hairy battery on the ram card

I didn't document it, as to be honest, its removal of a cap & replace with a cap ad infinitum, there's nothing to document.

I did however grab a few snaps of the battery fixing procedure. CosMos offers a battery, a holder & a little diode for €2.50 which is a grand little hassle saver if you don't have the bits lying around.

As you can see, this thing wasn't going to hold out much longer. It'd eventually have leaked all over the ram board, & possibly have spread to the mainboard depending on the angle it was stored at.

The battery & holder are the same types I used for SNES & MD cart replacements. It means in future, when the battery expires, you can just pop it out & replace without any fuss.

Sorted

Repair document here - http://cosmosamiga.blogspot.com/2010/02/pile-a500.html

I'll hit the Amiga 600 tomorrow.

Andrew76 · 04-04-2011 8:23pm

Excellent stuff dude, thanks a mil. Almost looks like I was trying to smuggle something dubious about inside my migs. :pac:

Myrddin · 04-04-2011 8:51pm

Andrew76 wrote: »

Excellent stuff dude, thanks a mil. Almost looks like I was trying to smuggle something dubious about inside my migs. :pac:

Actually since doing the battery change, I've been full of energy

Myrddin · 05-04-2011 8:03pm

Just finished the cap kit on Andrews Amiga 600...which is labelled as an Amiga 300 on the motherboard (I think I read somewhere that Amiga actually meant to market the 600 as a budget 500, but instead made an absolute mess of pricing & had to market it with a superior number to 'justify' the higher price).

That's the last Amiga cap kit I'll be doing, I'm no longer offering the service of cap kits on them. For the time it takes to do them, there's no way to justifiably charge for the job so I won't be doing them anymore

o1s1n · 05-04-2011 8:12pm

Until my caps need to be changed in 20 years time, right?

Right????

I'll pay you 1 million future space monies! (although going the way we are, I'm sure that will be about €10)

Myrddin · 05-04-2011 8:46pm

o1s1n wrote: »

Until my caps need to be changed in 20 years time, right?

Right????

I'll pay you 1 million future space monies! (although going the way we are, I'm sure that will be about €10)

I may come out of cap retirement for a cool €1 Million

but until then, I'm finished with Migs dude.

7sr2z3fely84g5 · 05-04-2011 9:11pm

Amigakit offer the service for any future needs-

http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=932&currency=EUR

20 years time more likely the surface mounted chips be dead

Myrddin · 05-04-2011 10:14pm

Aaliyah Steep Cowhide wrote: »

Amigakit offer the service for any future needs-

http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=932

20 years time more likely the surface mounted chips be dead

£31 plus initial postage? Works out @ about €50 or so. Now I see where I'm going wrong with my pricing :rolleyes:

Anyway, amigakit can take the reigns from here on out

7sr2z3fely84g5 · 05-04-2011 10:24pm

Soz put in uk link,mistake,euro here-

http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=932&currency=EUR

Myrddin · 05-04-2011 10:27pm

Aaliyah Steep Cowhide wrote: »

Soz put in uk link,mistake,euro here-

http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=932&currency=EUR

Yeah & you've to cover initial postage correct? I don't know about you, but I 'd be sending an Amiga mobo registered post...so it's gonna be €50 all day long I'd say. Bit dearer than my €20, but all good things etc etc.

alpahaeagle · 06-04-2011 9:25am

Damn and I was going to ask you to do my caps on my mig 1200 .....Blast !!!!:p

Myrddin · 06-04-2011 9:34am

alpahaeagle wrote: »

Damn and I was going to ask you to do my caps on my mig 1200 .....Blast !!!!:p

If you can beat o1s1n's offer of a million euro then your on

alpahaeagle · 06-04-2011 9:40am

I would but I left my winning loto ticket in the draw at tesco's...:p

o1s1n · 28-07-2011 4:25pm

The speakers going is the first step on the Gamegear's road to disaster.

The screen will get harder to see (if it's not already)

then eventually the headphone speakers will go too.

I had all that happen in the course of a week!

Optimus Prime · 28-07-2011 4:29pm

Mine was gone like that when i got it, no sound very hard to see the screen. I bought caps off rewind bits and EnterNow changed them all for me, works perfect again!

Optimus Prime · 28-07-2011 6:26pm

yeh id say so, i think there are 8-9 caps for the screen and 5 for the sound.

docentore · 04-08-2011 3:08pm

anyone has expierence with DC with no sound/picture? Got one, nut bloody thing won't display or play a sound for me.
Things checked so far:
* rf cable (works with other DC)
* gd-rom
* psu
* conotroller board.

There was a bit of corrosion on the board, but I took care of that. Also strange thing, when turned on vmu beeps but there is n display on it, discs are spinning though.

safetyboy · 04-08-2011 3:14pm

I had one like that you have to take the PSU board out and bent the pins to make it connect better again

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/sega/dc-reset.htm

docentore · 04-08-2011 3:34pm

safetyboy wrote: »

I had one like that you have to take the PSU board out and bent the pins to make it connect better again

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/sega/dc-reset.htm

thanks, that was actually my first try to fix it. All currents (3.3, 5 and 12V) are present on the board, at least around power connector.
Strange thing is that very rarely it gives me blank screen, but mostly no signal. I'm waiting for RGB cable, will see if that helps, if not time to look for new mobo or console with broken gd-rom

Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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