lightwaverf FAQ

Stoner · 09-11-2016 3:47am #1

OK since I've been going on about them I thought I share my lightwaverf experience.
I'll fix my spelling gradually

You need a hub @ 100 euro .
Function : excellent never fell over once. Needs internet to work even if you are at home. Has a proprietary link to nest each system can be aware of the home and away status of the other and this can be a trigger ( dont have a nest)

After that you can buy

Inline socket units pack of three and a remote control ( useful for other things too) @40 euro 3kw each so 13 amp there abouts for 3
Function: excellent easy to pair, great for behind the TV unit and hidden places. On off control, on the app and the remote. Great value unbeatable in the market.

Inline dimming sockets pack of three and a remote control. @ 55 euro. These look like the above but have dimming and on off control 250W of dimming.
Function: I don't know don't have them. But good for freestanding lamps with dimmable units, again super value to add three dimming lights to the app and a remote control.

Twin sockets.@ 40 euro each , a range of colours available I couldn't get a great match to brushed stainless steel. Required deep back box.
Function: excellent each socket is controlled separately so twin as better value than singles

500 Watt inline relay, I used this to open my electric gate. Parallel connection across the push to make switch and requires 220V @ 30 euro.
Function: excellent i use it to hold the gate open and I made an event ( explained below) to open then close . It can be set up as " open stop Close " ( for blinds) "open close" for gates etc for 500 watts mains or bolt free and finally as a 500w inline dimmer. This unit actually improved the opinions on my gate by adding latched open hold to it. If I lose my zapper my phone will work. The remote for the sockets ( it has about 25 select options) can be paired too.

Three way 3kw combined relay @50 euro. 220 V in and three individually controlled outputs. Function: excellent i use this for basic on off control . In my set up each output is a flood light on my house 1) front 2) side 3) back. It's off atm as I'm changing the fittings, again great value for three outputs online. Again socket remote can on off each output

3KW inline timed relay @35 euro now 40. Power in and timed power out, has a dial that you set to the times 2 sec 30 sec , 2 Min , 5 min, 10 min, 2 hrs 4 hrs 8 hrs . Resistive load Function: Very good. I use it as an immersion timer. I can turn it on from the app. Missing the 1 hr time for some reason. I use the 2 hr , I might be able to to get 1 hr by making an event with a delay. Bath or sink selection lives on the old switch , this simply break the juice into the immersion switch. Possibly i got the wrong switch for the immersion as need to use the app or set app timers etc. But its never always on. I've it set to 2 hours , again socket remote can be used for switching alongside the app. With the boost button this can be used manually even if the internet connection is down. Socket remote can call It in too.

3KW electric switch @70 euro. Resistive load appears in heating part of the app.
Function: Don't have one. Has a boost button good for panel heaters and immersion, better for immersion as it has a boost button. But the inline unit has a hardware timer ,I would would have to make an event to turn it on , delay, Off

One gang light switch @30 Euro, needs to have live and neutral at the switch, difficult to get if you don't have it .I use it to switch a whole circuit is lights .
Function: Excellent pops the lights into the app and controlled at the switch too, range of colours available, lovely design nice neon indicators on the switches good value to switch regular lamps on and off . None of this messing with leaving the switch on for operation etc.

One and Two gang dimmers switches @45 and 55 euro , as above but with 250 watts of dimming on board again Irish drawback needs 220 V permanent supply at the switch Function: Don't know just got them not installed. But a great way to add dimming to the house very cost-effective for dimming lots of spot lights. They look great , good colour range. Replacement lamps only 5 euro.

Energy Meter @30 euro it's clamped to my Meter :
Function: works very well, nice gui. Recently they added a history online for my energy usage, great added value

Thermostat: this is wireless it connects to the hub and it connects to the boiler switche. Looks OK lasts ages on battery. Loads of times 6 per day , and I think it has a 2week cycle. Plus it has home and away status too. You set the temp alone for the heating temp. This is the only thing controlling the on off control. If you change the temp on it it will update the app/ cloud setting. When you change on the app it changes on the thermostat. It a bit had to set and respond sometimes. Function: good the timers always work but to turn on the heating from the app you need to dial the temp up on the app. That can take 5 goes sometimes, works every time when you use the buttons on the thermostat . This does not need the hub or the internet to work so you keep the heating when the internet connection drops. It does not and won't in the future give you a soft copy of the boost button on the app. There is a boost button on the thermostat. Great calendar in the app

Boiler switch: @65 this only pairs to a thermostat, it has an on off button for the boiler. It has the same boost button as the thermostat press it once for one hours. Twice for 2 and three times for 3 hrs. Function: excellent and this is fine easy to wire all it is an on off switch and a boost button described above, works every time.

TRVs @65 these all have their own slot in the app and appear exactly like the thermostat except they are always below it and they can't call the heating in anymore. Fitting them can be hard . TBH you need it to fit first time, the little bag of collars and spacers is for the bin. They are powerful the myson TRVs are interchangeable, on ones that didn't fit I had to drain down the system and fit myson TRVs .
Once on they work ok , correct to about +/- 2 degrees. Were terribly loud and ran a calibration every night. Mine were recalled new firmware much quieter and the pair first time but. So the kit does get fixed they are good to deal with IMO. Still a bit noisy. I've six with two on the way. They have s 2 degree boost for one hour button on the TRV

Door contact , @15, like the electric boiler switch you pair it to a TRV.
Function: very good, shuts the rad TRV off if the door or window is open . A bit big.

250 W inline dimmer @50 euro. Has hardware timers on them too. Here you would need to leave the light switch on , or use it as an override.
Function: Excellent: pop one of these in before the first light on a cct and you can dim all the fittings. Works well with recessed lights as you can pop a fitting out and stick this before the first fittings leave it above the ceiling. I don't have one yet.

5 button mood selection and switch: mines sitting in London , will back fill when I get it.

I'll add operations and all pictures tomorrow.

Stoner · 10-11-2016 12:47am

Screen shots from the app. Note more features available like energy Meter history and graphs online

Rooms page
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fp5xz0yz3eiun4b/Screenshot_20161109-233517.png?dl=0

Events page
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mfc48qdxkg488sp/Screenshot_20161109-233522.png?dl=0

Timers page
https://www.dropbox.com/s/askxpr69b2pyrne/Screenshot_20161109-233527.png?dl=0

Heating set up page
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8akbwlzwwndueol/Screenshot_20161109-233531.png?dl=0

More page
https://www.dropbox.com/s/am7a7mcepotdc1i/Screenshot_20161109-233536.png?dl=0

Energy Meter ( I've my meter disconnected )
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qqfvc9vf691tqtr/Screenshot_20161109-233541.png?dl=0

Google nest link page
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l414vdmx8yv5g4d/Screenshot_20161109-233555.png?dl=0

dendof · 10-11-2016 11:44am

Just curious how you added the relay to your gates? I am automating my gates and it will use dial to open for access. This will work fine for people trying to gain access, they can press intercom and then my phone will ring and I can open gates. I've been looking at IFTTT and I've been able to control lightwaverf sockets based on when I enter a location. I would like to add the relay to my system and include gates on my lightwaverf app.
I presume it's possible to add relay to my automated gates system?

Also, has anyone had any luck with the dusk till dawn sensor? I've tried to pair with a remote socket but it doesn't do anything at dusk or dawn.
I got some dimmable CFL remote bulbs too. I can pair them to the app and remote that comes with remote sockets but not not the small remote that comes with the bulb itself. Anyone see this before?

Stoner · 10-11-2016 12:06pm

dendof wrote:

Also, has anyone had any luck with the dusk till dawn sensor? I've tried to pair with a remote socket but it doesn't do anything at dusk or dawn. I got some dimmable CFL remote bulbs too. I can pair them to the app and remote that comes with remote sockets but not not the small remote that comes with the bulb itself. Anyone see this before?

Dusk to dawn works very well for me. I add it when I make a timer

I don't know the small light remote you are taking about.

But I'll run through the relay with you. That remote that you have for the on off sockets can be paired to the gates too.

Dont be at yourself · 10-11-2016 12:09pm

Would be interested in the light switches but not sure if my house is wired for them. Also would like integration with Amazon Echo, but doens't seem to be supported (yet).

dendof · 10-11-2016 12:13pm

Stoner wrote: »

Dusk to dawn works very well for me. I add it when I make a timer

I don't know the small light remote you are taking about.

But I'll run through the relay with you. That remote that you have for the on off sockets can be paired to the gates too.

Cheers for reply. I'm actually talking about the dusk till dawn sensor itself, not the timer function on app? I plug in a remote socket, press del/sel on sensor, wait for light on socket to go solid, then press start on sensor. The sensor is in the porch so gets loads of light (and darkness) but does nothing to the socket so probably something with the pairing.
The small remote with the bulb is the one in this link:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/lightwaverf-lw561es-20w-dimmer-es-compact-fluorescent-light-with-remote-n60ll

lgk · 10-11-2016 12:23pm

I have some LightwaveRF kit as well, so I'll add a couple of points for anyone considering investing.

2 way light switching, you need a slave dimmer for the second light switch, two regular dimmers together won't work. This caused a problem for me when retrofitting switched in my hall and on the landing. The downstairs dual switch controls the hall and landing light, the upstairs switch controls landing and bathroom light. Up until relatively recently, I would have had to install a single regular dimmer switch, and a single slave dimmer switch side by side at one location to get two-way switching on the landing light, and single switching for the others. However, they now do a dual slave/ master dimmer switch that solves that issue, and allows you to have just the one double switch at each location. These are only made to order, and are a little pricey as a result at £95.

I have an issue with the range between the hub and where I have the boiler switch. I've a small enough house, but the hub just can't talk to the boiler switch. Luckily, the thermostat talks directly to the boiler switch so I can still control the system based on the thermostat temperature, but it'd be nice to get up to date temperature readings at the boiler switch location. I bought the WiFi signal booster thinking that might solve my problem, but it turns out that the WiFI signal booster is not compatible with the boiler switch or thermostat.

Actually, a limitation to note is that the signal booster must be paired with the devices it is to control, and it is limited in the number of devices (5 or 6 I think).

Stoner · 10-11-2016 1:23pm

The 500watt relay needs 220V power. It has an on board fuse.

This is what I did.

Note I'm qualified and cleared to do this.

I've mine in an OBO box under the stairs
cabled from the light circuit.
So lighting circuit
To fused spur (3 amps)
To OBO box with the relay in it.

You need access to power and the low voltage cable that feeds the gates.

Google the intercom you have, but in most cases the button you press to open the gate is just like a doorbell.

Without seeing it note yours will be slightly different I'm only telling you what i did

So you will have two low voltage alarm type cables so you could install some alarm cable from the phone to the relay ( I didn't do this but the relay would actually fit into the plastic intercom phone, I could have brought the power into a plastic enclosed compartment in the phone. But my intercom phone is big and old others might be smaller

Anyway all you need is two cables from the relay to the phone.

The cable to the phone runs under my stairs so I was able to tap into it.

I looked up the wiring diagram for the phone and identified the two connection points that open the gate. I checked they worked by holding the insulated screw driver across them and the gate opened.
Note again this is what I did its not an instruction manual

So I noted the colours of the cables.

I tapped into them under the stairs.

The relay took live and neutral
then on the control section I connected one LV cable to the common ( middle of the 3 LV connections) and the other to the LV terminal on the right of the common, with the relay the right way up and the letters L and N the right way around.

It is essentially wiring in a doorbell, but the door bell needs power.

Lightwaverf set up

Where ever you put the relay make that room in the app this is a logical naming convention
Go into the room and select add device

add the relay to lightwaverf it has a pairing buttons you do inform your phone, press add device and press the pair button.

Name it Gate relay
Unlike most lightwaverf devices you will be offered three operation setting for this.
On off
Open close
Dimmer

So this little units can have a dimmer slider in the app if you select and wire it as a dimmer

Open close is for blinds etc where you want open stop and close something so you can have the blinds half open

Anyway for the gate I only wanted open and close

Now in the app go to the room you added the relay into

You will see it there with an open and close option.

If you set it to open it will Open and stay open until to tell it to Close ( this is something I didn't have before it's called latching)

So for open close make an event called
Gate open close

Set it to

Open gate
Delay 30 seconds
Close gate

Then you have the gate open and close event you can then
Make an IFTTT button on your phone to run it
Use different Applets to call the gate to open and close
Use and applet to make a button to latch the gate on hold open

The button to open and close is great it's like.a back up zapper

You act the maggot with gpa setting launching the event too.
My router is IFTTT compliant and long range I can have it set that when my phone connects to the router the gate opens as I have WiFi out on the road

Note your gate will have its own timer set up that when it opens it will close afterwards, it will also have a safety beam or similar

This is the main setting. The event you made controls the relay If get me,the relay is just another switch for the gate it does not take over
So if your gate currently is set up to open for 3 minutes then close and your delay on your lightwaverf event is 30 seconds the gate will still open for 3 minutes

In fact on mine under it up as follows
Open gate
Delay 3 seconds
Close gate

But the gate will stay open for 1 minute as set up in the gate controller.

I hope that helps . I might have over complicated it. But in its parts is simple

The units fit perfectly in a regular obo box you can seal it closed, when you take the lid off the access to the fuse is excellent. No need for an expensive enclosure

Stoner · 10-11-2016 1:29pm

Dont be at yourself wrote:

Would be interested in the light switches but not sure if my house is wired for them. Also would like integration with Amazon Echo, but doens't seem to be supported (yet).

Yes they mailed me to say
Echo and Hue integration on the way

No mention of Google home though

Stoner · 10-11-2016 1:32pm

dendof wrote:

Cheers for reply. I'm actually talking about the dusk till dawn sensor itself, not the timer function on app? I plug in a remote socket, press del/sel on sensor, wait for light on socket to go solid, then press start on sensor. The sensor is in the porch so gets loads of light (and darkness) but does nothing to the socket so probably something with the pairing. The small remote with the bulb is the one in this link:

Ahh ok. We have similar set ups

Just my dusk to dawn unit is still in the box.

Could not have the socket on a timer 24/7 with the google dusk till dawn condition as an override?

dendof · 10-11-2016 1:53pm

Stoner wrote: »

Ahh ok. We have similar set ups

Just my dusk to dawn unit is still in the box.

Could not have the socket on a timer 24/7 with the google dusk till dawn condition as an override?

Yeah using timer in app seems to work OK and switching on/off at dusk.
Just a shame that I can't pair the sensor at all. So far looks to be a waste of money.
Happened before with the energy monitor when I couldn't get it to clamp so shame to have unused gear.

Stoner wrote: »

The 500watt relay needs 220V power. It has an on board fuse.

This is what I did.

Note I'm qualified and cleared to do this.

I've mine in an OBO box under the stairs
cabled from the light circuit.
So lighting circuit
To fused spur (3 amps)
To OBO box with the relay in it.

You need access to power and the low voltage cable that feeds the gates.

Google the intercom you have, but in most cases the button you press to open the gate is just like a doorbell.

Without seeing it note yours will be slightly different I'm only telling you what i did

So you will have two low voltage alarm type cables so you could install some alarm cable from the phone to the relay ( I didn't do this but the relay would actually fit into the plastic intercom phone, I could have brought the power into a plastic enclosed compartment in the phone. But my intercom phone is big and old others might be smaller

Anyway all you need is two cables from the relay to the phone.

The cable to the phone runs under my stairs so I was able to tap into it.

I looked up the wiring diagram for the phone and identified the two connection points that open the gate. I checked they worked by holding the insulated screw driver across them and the gate opened.
Note again this is what I did its not an instruction manual

So I noted the colours of the cables.

I tapped into them under the stairs.

The relay took live and neutral
then on the control section I connected one LV cable to the common ( middle of the 3 LV connections) and the other to the LV terminal on the right of the common, with the relay the right way up and the letters L and N the right way around.

It is essentially wiring in a doorbell, but the door bell needs power.

Lightwaverf set up

Where ever you put the relay make that room in the app this is a logical naming convention
Go into the room and select add device

add the relay to lightwaverf it has a pairing buttons you do inform your phone, press add device and press the pair button.

Name it Gate relay
Unlike most lightwaverf devices you will be offered three operation setting for this.
On off
Open close
Dimmer

So this little units can have a dimmer slider in the app if you select and wire it as a dimmer

Open close is for blinds etc where you want open stop and close something so you can have the blinds half open

Anyway for the gate I only wanted open and close

Now in the app go to the room you added the relay into

You will see it there with an open and close option.

If you set it to open it will Open and stay open until to tell it to Close ( this is something I didn't have before it's called latching)

So for open close make an event called
Gate open close

Set it to

Open gate
Delay 30 seconds
Close gate

Then you have the gate open and close event you can then
Make an IFTTT button on your phone to run it
Use different Applets to call the gate to open and close
Use and applet to make a button to latch the gate on hold open

The button to open and close is great it's like.a back up zapper

You act the maggot with gpa setting launching the event too.
My router is IFTTT compliant and long range I can have it set that when my phone connects to the router the gate opens as I have WiFi out on the road

Note your gate will have its own timer set up that when it opens it will close afterwards, it will also have a safety beam or similar

This is the main setting. The event you made controls the relay If get me,the relay is just another switch for the gate it does not take over
So if your gate currently is set up to open for 3 minutes then close and your delay on your lightwaverf event is 30 seconds the gate will still open for 3 minutes

In fact on mine under it up as follows
Open gate
Delay 3 seconds
Close gate

But the gate will stay open for 1 minute as set up in the gate controller.

I hope that helps . I might have over complicated it. But in its parts is simple

The units fit perfectly in a regular obo box you can seal it closed, when you take the lid off the access to the fuse is excellent. No need for an expensive enclosure

I have power going from house underground to gates. Have powered outside lights etc from there. Was thinking I might be able to install relay in outdoor enclosure box where 12 core cable is located rather than doing anything inside house. I will check with guy installing arms for gates, maybe he can do it without too much work.

Stoner · 10-11-2016 2:36pm

lgk wrote:

thinking that might solve my problem, but it turns out that the WiFI signal booster is not compatible with the boiler switch or thermostat.

Yes the boiler switch and thermostat are sold as standalone.

It the same arrangement with the door contacts. The TRVs pair with them. There is no way around this, in agree with you 100 percent but worded it differently we have no soft boost or on off button that's on the boiler switch or the thermostat.

There wouldn't be any other reason to pair with the boiler switch though, it has no temperature reading capabilities anyway.

Thanks for the lights update . I've done very little with lightwaverf lighting, what I have done I used relays

Stoner · 10-11-2016 5:48pm

dendof wrote:

I have power going from house underground to gates. Have powered outside lights etc from there. Was thinking I might be able to install relay in outdoor enclosure box where 12 core cable is located rather than doing anything inside house. I will check with guy installing arms for gates, maybe he can do it without too much work.

That's a great idea, I should have offered it too. The relays are very small I'd I'd say he'd nearly fit it in the motor box

lgk · 11-11-2016 10:56am

Stoner wrote: »

Yes the boiler switch and thermostat are sold as standalone.

They could do with updating the product description for the booster to clarify its limitations.

Stoner wrote: »

There wouldn't be any other reason to pair with the boiler switch though, it has no temperature reading capabilities anyway.

I only played around with it when I first set it up as I had to move the WiFi link closer temporarily to get it talking directly to the boiler switch, but the boiler switch reports current temperature, and you can set a separate heating schedule for it in the app. Maybe that's just a quirk in the app and they just replicated the controls for the thermostat for the switch, but I thought they were reporting different current temps when I was playing with it. Now, in the app, the boiler switch just reports the temp and last update date when I was testing.

dendof · 11-11-2016 11:19am

dendof wrote: »

I got some dimmable CFL remote bulbs too. I can pair them to the app and remote that comes with remote sockets but not not the small remote that comes with the bulb itself. Anyone see this before?

I changed battery on the remote and now pairs OK. One thing a noticed though is that since bulbs went onto my system, commands from the app have a much longer lag time.
Has anyone seen this before?

Stoner · 11-11-2016 1:22pm

lgk wrote:

I only played around with it when I first set it up as I had to move the WiFi link closer temporarily to get it talking directly to the boiler switch, but the boiler switch reports current temperature, and you can set a separate heating schedule for it in the app. Maybe that's just a quirk in the app and they just replicated the controls for the thermostat for the switch, but I thought they were reporting different current temps when I was playing with it. Now, in the app, the boiler switch just reports the temp and last update date when I was testing.

Tbh I think you and I are calling both units the others name !!
I only have a temperature for the wireless thermostat anyway in my set up . The stat also has the same two buttons as the switch.

When I increase the desired temp on the stat manually at the stat, it updates to reflect that change on my phone, and if I change it on the phone it updates on the stat.

Stoner · 12-11-2016 2:41pm

Lightwaverf Skill for Alexa.

Description

With the LightwaveRF Skill and Alexa, you can now interact with your LightwaveRF lights, switches and dimmers by voice. To get started, select the â€˜Enable Skillâ€™ button in the Alexa App to link your LightwaveRF account and discover your device(s).

When using the skill, you need to specify by name which device to use.Â

There are two ways to define these names:

* Use the names you set up already â€“ these are shown in the LightwaveRF app and can be changed, or

* Create an Alexa group, such as Bedroom or Downstairs, and add the device to the group. More information is available at http://amzn.to/2965dCE.

Once you know the name or group of your device(s), you can say the following:Â

* If you have switches or non-dimmable lights, you can turn them on/off, for example: â€œAlexa, turn on my Bedroom lightsâ€.

* If you have dimmable lights, you can change the brightness, for example: â€œAlexa, brighten Downstairs to 60 per cent", or "Alexa, dim the Living Room lights".

For more information please visit http://lightwaverf.com/how-it-works

Find more information about connecting smart home devices at http://amzn.to/291lR7u.

lgk · 12-11-2016 5:28pm

Stoner wrote: »

Tbh I think you and I are calling both units the others name !!

I'll need to spend some more time looking into it, but they're both marked as the right device types in the app (Electric Heating Switch & Thermostat). The boiler switch in the app has no effect when I adjust its temp up or down, and reports not having made contact with the hub since the time when I had moved the hub closer to it. Can't be sure it did respond to temp changes then at this stage though.

When I adjust the temp of the stat in the app, the stat lights up and reflects that change. So they're not flipped, but when I get a few hours I'll take another look.

rolion · 13-11-2016 1:18pm

Hi,

Thanks for reviews.
Is that correct that the solution has no dual way / fedback status communication ?
I mean, you cant see the real-time status of the switch, ie you try to turn on when it may be turned on already !? Or kids might have turned on or off and the interface will not report it ?

Thanks

Stoner · 13-11-2016 3:12pm

rolion wrote:

Thanks for reviews. Is that correct that the solution has no dual way / fedback status communication ? I mean, you cant see the real-time status of the switch, ie you try to turn on when it may be turned on already !? Or kids might have turned on or off and the interface will not report it ?

Ok I'm not 100 percent but like x10 the lightwaverf sockets and light switches don't no know if they are on or not. They are not state aware

They just listen to the last instruction and follow it.

The lamps are the same.

Lightwaverfs is a reliable setup imo. I've no issues with coverage . It has a wider coverage than Zigbee or zwave but adding devices (bar the extender) does not increase the footprint of the nw like it does with the mesh system
Your hub controls it's devices
Your extender if you need it has devices
The hub talks to the extender

You wouldn't have the situation in your other thread with a Zigbee or z wave mesh systems a lightwaverf lamp is not a node ,or expander. It just listens for instructions and carries them out.

You can lock out a socket though and you see that on the app , this might just be looking at a flag in the cloud though

Then you have a few devices that you do see the current status of and you can change it etc , two way communication.

The TRVs
The thermostat

But
Relays, sockets, inline sockets light switches etc you don't know the current state.

For lights you'd need scenes or use all off to make sure things were as you wanted

oinkely · 14-11-2016 12:27pm

Hi All,

I have a few dummy questions regarding lightwave control for lighting.

I have 3 separately switched lighting zones in my kitchen/living/dining area. There are 11, 8 and 6 Phillips 5W GU10 dimmable LED fittings in each of these zones.

In order to have an amazon echo control these lights i'm thinking that i need:

1) lightwave rf hub
2) 1 2 gang dimmable switch
3) 1 single gang dimmable switch

Does anyone know if i am missing something here? I know that i have to make sure i have a neutral at each of the switching points first, but is it really that simple?

Do these dimmers work with these LEDS? I seem to remember having to get specific switches when i was installing them as the original ones caused them to flicker or something like that?

And finally, in order to get an amazon echo to control them is there anything else i need?

thanks for your info if anyone can help.

Stoner · 14-11-2016 1:00pm

oinkely wrote:

Do these dimmers work with these LEDS? I seem to remember having to get specific switches when i was installing them as the original ones caused them to flicker or something like that?

The inline dimmers are 250 Watt. But the documentation says they recommend you keep that to 60watts of dimmable LEDs.

I'm still laid up atm and can't check the Alexa Skill with lightwaverf. I'll look into the wiring diagrams now.

But I'll be adding these myself shortly

Stoner · 14-11-2016 1:07pm

You'll need to enable the lightwaverf Skill on the echo you are in a good position as you'll name things with that in mind.

oinkely · 14-11-2016 1:14pm

thanks Stoner,

Looks like I am on the right track so.

Would you recommend the inline dimmers instead of replacing the actual switches that we already have?

Stoner · 14-11-2016 1:59pm

oinkely wrote:

Does anyone know if i am missing something here? I know that i have to make sure i have a neutral at each of the switching points first, but is it really that simple?

If you are using lightwaverf you don't need a neutral

This can be straightforward or a little complicated let's go for straightforward first

I assume you currently have
One x 1 gang switch (on its own no 2 w) for one circuit
One x 2 gang switch (on their own no 2 w)

Look at the cct diagram for the LW400

There is no neutral required. This is a standard light switch change over. The back box might be an issue though.

Stoner · 14-11-2016 2:41pm

oinkely wrote:

Would you recommend the inline dimmers instead of replacing the actual switches that we already have?

I don't know I like the switches I like the little blue lights on them. They are decent quality, thats what lightwaverf really offer imo. The sockets etc look very good.

You have another option
Have look at the mood switch

oinkely · 14-11-2016 3:55pm

Stoner wrote: »

I assume you currently have
One x 1 gang switch (on its own no 2 w) for one circuit
One x 2 gang switch (on their own no 2 w)

Look at the cct diagram for the LW400

Thanks Stoner, yes this is what I have.

Had a look a that diagram and looks nice and straightforward. Might have to do a bit of chasing behind the current switch box in order to install a deeper one though.

Anyway, thanks again.

Any recommendations on where to buy this stuff? Amazon?

Stoner · 14-11-2016 5:35pm

oinkely wrote:

Any recommendations on where to buy this stuff? Amazon?

eBay Amazon. And on the lightwaverf site they have three suppliers linked, keep going until you get the best value.

Zimmerframe · 15-11-2016 2:00am

I have lot's of Lightwaverf stuff, and pretty happy with it, it's decent quality for the price BUT in this day and age the lack of device status reporting is a deal breaker.
Granted, it's much more reliable than X10, which was a "might be switched on" system, but the bottom line with Lightwaverf is it's "more than likely? switched on, but you can't be sure.

Tom Cruises Left Nut · 15-11-2016 10:27am

So here is a question

Can you get light switches that you can connect the existing light switch wires to ?

All the ones I have seen are controls for relays etc. I have no clue how that works lol

Dont be at yourself · 15-11-2016 11:11am

Tom Cruises Left Nut wrote: »

So here is a question

Can you get light switches that you can connect the existing light switch wires to ?

All the ones I have seen are controls for relays etc. I have no clue how that works lol

It looks like their light switches will swap right in for your plain old light switch. Relays seem to require a neutral tho.

Stoner · 15-11-2016 2:41pm

Yes as above. Have a read of the poster that has lights

Regular switches are a straight swap, off with the old one with the new. But two way is a little more complicated

The inline rays can use your old switches but require an extra cable

Tom Cruises Left Nut · 15-11-2016 2:50pm

Stoner wrote: »

Yes as above. Have a read of the poster that has lights

Regular switches are a straight swap, off with the old one with the new. But two way is a little more complicated

The inline rays can use your old switches but require an extra cable

Cheers

Maybe you would know actually, I have a 2 gang switch but I really only want a one way to control the 2 lights, can I just combine the wires ?

Stoner · 15-11-2016 3:06pm

Yes just get a one gang lightwaverf switch and put both switch wires into the live out . Follow the installation instructions on the box with respect to safety.
So long as neither switch is currently part of a two way arrangement. Then you seem to be into a master and slave arrangement

Stoner · 16-11-2016 2:24am

Couple of updates

Lightwaverfs have updated the site linkage detaila for

IFTTT
Alexa
Nest
Musaic

They also have a store on eBay and for 100 pounds they are selling 5 twin sockets , fantastic value .
.
There is some negativity about lightwaverf. I'd like to highlight some of that

The boiler switch and thermostat stat work perfectly well for me . No problems

TVRs are a challenge but you need to get used to them, update the firmware stick with it. Investigate other options first.

The link box or hub for me has been one of the most solid bits of kit I've even had. I have never had to restart it , it's has been restarted but it's not something that has required any maintenance from me

The LED strip lights, colour. Great idea work very well but avoid them as they are CC RG -12V. So they don't work with most cheap RGB strips leave them alone if you planned on expanding them

Door contacts for TVRs unless you have a huge rad and a big backdoor that gets left open for long periods of time dont bother with these imo. eBay is full of them

The energy Meter was not great but now the history is in the cloud so it's similar to what we've seen on rPi builds. It's become more meaningful

Photo sensor. Don't bother here either imo largely replace with a dusk and dawn soft setting that you can offset. Not with the money imo.

Note lightwaverf broke ground with a lot of things. They got some right and some wrong. They've fixed some and dropped others. Some of the dropped stuff is for sale on eBay.

Linking with Nest, this is very basic home and away mirroring only, dont expect much

Links with Alexa looks very good.

Links with musaic , it seems to be lightwaverf control on the musaic app. Set mood lighting. I could see it working well TBH

IFTTT for me lightwaverf have this very well sorted. Four decent channels. Lots of options in your hands and lots of opportunities to parcel a series of events ( using the events channel) onto one recipe

Sockets and inline sockets. I understand that some complain that these don't always work. Well mine do. The security gate , the lightwaverf sockets i have in the external box at Christmas time, the units behind the TV. They are all solid now.

Overall sometimes the communication between the app, cloud and your device is slow.
Of you wait a few extra seconds temperatures will adjust and things will switch on.

rolion · 16-11-2016 10:03am

Stoner wrote: »

Note lightwaverf broke ground with a lot of things. They got some right and some wrong. They've fixed some and dropped others. Some of the dropped stuff is for sale on eBay.

Thanks.
They will get my money when i iwill see the devices been status-aware and not myself guesing what the "on / off" might be...

bk · 16-11-2016 11:01am

rolion wrote: »

Thanks.
They will get my money when i iwill see the devices been status-aware and not myself guesing what the "on / off" might be...

It seems that their protocol is capable of two way communication, but for cost reasons they have only implemented one way comms. They could do two way in future, but that would require new hardware.

This is definitely a big advantage of using Zigbee, like Philips Hue does, it supports two way comms.

Stoner · 16-11-2016 11:04am

rolion wrote:

Thanks. They will get my money when i iwill see the devices been status-aware and not myself guesing what the "on / off" might be...

Well you need to look elsewhere I'm afraid. I don't think they'll change that soon. There's plenty of mesh network options out there.

It's not a deal breaker for me as I can usually see that ever it is turning on or off anyway, but point taken

Stoner · 16-11-2016 11:08am

bk wrote:

It seems that their protocol is capable of two way communication, but for cost reasons they have only implemented one way comms. They could do two way in future, but that would require new hardware.

They have a couple of devices where two way is enabled

TVRs and thermostats etc

dendof · 16-11-2016 12:07pm

I suppose it is a pity alright that there is no On/Off notification in the app.
You could use the energy monitor to check in usage increases/decreases?
I couldn’t get mine connected but I am part of the Electric Ireland smarter living panel and that uses an app along with smart plugs that you can see the wattage being used.
I trust lightwaverf in that once I set it up correctly and can see it working via app, I have never had it fail if I try to turn something on/off from outside the home.
But I suppose there are scenarios where it could fail, power cut etc and you wouldn’t know but again could check energy usage.

Stoner · 16-11-2016 5:02pm

Good point. I guess if there was no handshake then a response could be resent, adding a layer of reliability.

However I would like to add that it's a very reliable system as far as I'm concerned, for certain devices.
If it wasn't I'd stop using it and adding to it. I dumped X10 for reliability issues. We could be overplaying the issue. They have some kit that works very well and some that doesn't the kit that works well is a real option.

There are loads of systems out there with inline sockets and maybe just lights etc but the lightwaverf relays, three way relays inline dimmers, inline timers etc are very good and very flexible.

I understand that they require some electrical skills and that puts people off. But I've found it very useful for security lights, adding wireless switches , timers onto immersions etc. and they all work
If I could get my money back I'd most likely get different TRVs they messed up the lighting strips possibly to stop people adding non proprietary products like Philips do.

But they have excellent regular inline dimmers that can be used with inexpensive LED lamps (theres a list if approved lamps)

I've found this very flexible and where as I'll have a hue in before Christmas , I find that it's somewhat limiting in that they refuse to offer any type of interface that would allow you to add a non Philips product to the scene. So any decorative fitting, catenary fitting floor lamps security fittings etc can't work on it.

It's great for Joe Blogs to change his GU 10 lamps or his centre lights but most houses have more than this type of fitting and the way I see it unless Philips make a Hue external led flood light , it's not going in your system, unless you like their three centre lights then you are stuck with a single bulb and a light shade.
Instead of making a dimming socket that you can add your existing bedside fitting to, your choice from Philips is to buy their whole hue table lamp . And they are not inexpensive.

Unless Philips make it, you can't have it on their system. If Philips add a socket you could add non Philips floor lamps. Will they add dimmable sockets so you can use the floor lamps you paid 300 euro for already?
This is why I think there is a place for a company like lightwaverf, who don't only make about 5 types light for you to choose from and three types of lamps.

Lightwaverfs will nearly switch any type of domestic lighting load.
It will turn on your immersion if you want. This puts power , heating and lighting on the one ecosystem far better than IFTTT . Within the app you can run up a series of events to turn the immersion on, increase the temperature in the bathroom, close a blind and set timer to turn on a lighting scene for bathroom lighting in one system very quickly.

There are some downsides this flexibility, but it needs to be highlighted IMO

Most noticeably watch out for discontinued stock on eBay.

bk · 16-11-2016 5:22pm

I agree with you Stoner, lightwaverf does look like a nice system and it certainly does bring some nice features that Philips Hue are absolutely missing.

I'm glad to hear that despite the mostly one way comm nature of it, it largely works reliably.

Based on your posts Stoner, I'm certainly very interested in lwrf, but find it slightly hard to justify because I've already have lighting and heating largely sorted with Hue and Netatmo. So while I can think of a few uses, they are relatively marginal and thus more difficult to justify. Basically I'm thinking of using it for smart plugs and for control of the electric towel rails in the bathroom. But they are nice to haves, not most haves.

I'm looking forward to hearing how you get on with both LWRF and Hue in the same home. They both use the same radio frequency, but different protocols, so I hope that it doesn't cause issues for you.

I'm also waiting to see how the lwrf integration with IFTTT, Amazon Echo and Google Home works out, to see if I can justify yet another hub

eurokev · 16-11-2016 7:19pm

Hi,

Could someone point me in the right direction of where to buy and look at specs of the range please

Stoner · 16-11-2016 7:53pm

Lightwaverf works at 433.92MHz frequency and isn't Zigbee 868 MHz in the EU

I'm not expecting any trouble. I've a Zigbee antenna in the house already but I won't go into that.
I've decided to largely stay mainstream now I'm sold on the level of development and the speed that things get added onto system now.

A low level hobby man like myself can't keep up!

Stoner · 16-11-2016 8:08pm

eurokev wrote:

Could someone point me in the right direction of where to buy and look at specs of the range please

You get the specs on the lightwaverf site. And you'll get suppliers linked there too.

Amazon sell it
Lightwaverfs have an eBay store too.

Stoner · 16-11-2016 8:14pm

eurokev wrote:

Could someone point me in the right direction of where to buy and look at specs of the range please

The hub is on sale in maplins at the .moment Â£65

bk · 16-11-2016 9:14pm

Stoner wrote: »

Lightwaverf works at 433.92MHz frequency and isn't Zigbee 868 MHz in the EU

According to the spec, it supports both:

Radio Frequency: 433/868MHz

http://www.lightwaverf.com/product/lightwave-link/#product-specification

Both frequencies are actually open frequencies that can be used for any control protocol, similar to 2.4GHz and 5GHz. So yes, while Zigbee and Zwave use 868, they aren't the only ones and lots of other protocols (like LWRF) can also use that same frequency.

However you are right, I suspect you will be fine. Just keep it in mind if you do run into weird issues.

bk · 16-11-2016 9:25pm

Stoner wrote: »

The hub is on sale in maplins at the .moment Â£65

Damn you Stoner! My credit card will be weeping! :P

Stoner · 16-11-2016 10:02pm

bk wrote:

However you are right, I suspect you will be fine. Just keep it in mind if you do run into weird issues.

That's the whole point bk!!

Stoner · 18-11-2016 11:11pm

Just tested the lightwaverf Skill and echo.

Works very well

You can call single devices and or whole events

All the heating controls are there too.

You can make a group in the Alexa app and add devices it and call that group.

Impressed so far

Stoner · 19-11-2016 1:12am

So i have Alexa tuning on and off lamps, open the front Gate , switching groups like feomt room entertainment.

It's late now but I've blanked and added devices a number of time , but I seem to have lost all 7 heating devices. I'll try again tomorrow when it's all on

lightwaverf FAQ

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