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Leisure Battery Charging system

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    #122
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    autumnalcore wrote: »
    Absorption is ok

    Whole-heartedly disagree.
    It's the least reliable, least capable part of my rig, the most inefficient and the most energy intensive after the engine.

    Then there's the eternal faddling with gas ignition and quenching or go auto and see how long that system holds together.
    autumnalcore wrote: »
    1. if you have a big enough gas locker to fit cheap gas or have lpg / gaslow.

    Add the cost of getting gas, and spoilt food to the running costs.



    lemons-600x600.jpg


    autumnalcore wrote: »
    South of France, Spain is a different story.
    400Ah a day!!!!
    Running at 200% rated (dual powered).
    Active cooled, baffled airflow and still incapable of maintaining <7°C internal with sporadic opening.


    autumnalcore wrote: »
    1. If youre only putting reasonably cold stuff in them

    €600 cool box?
    Schwim on...:rolleyes:

    What happened yours? a_stir_it_smiley.gif


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    #123
    gctest50
    Registered Users Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50


    Do it a bit like a small refrigerated van ?

    Compressor on the engine w/ electric clutch


    Separate 12v cooling plate or thing to offset the heat gain a little bit


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    #124
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I'm just going to skip it sell it and fit a real one with a compressor.


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    #125
    12 element
    Registered Users Posts: 718 ✭✭✭12 element


    Looks like a good price on a compressor coolerbox:
    https://www.svb24.com/en/mobicool-fr34-compressor-cooler.html

    40l version here:
    https://www.svb24.com/en/mobicool-fr40-compressor-cooler.html


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    #126
    jace_da_face
    Registered Users Posts: 480 ✭✭jace_da_face


    Impressed enough was I with my little battery monitor, I have now built it in to my battery cover.

    450743.JPG

    In hindsight, I should have put the battery isolator switch on the other side of the shunt. Anyway, the battery isolator is mostly just to allow me to insert my Fluke ammeter in the path to calibrate the battery monitor. This will keep the battery monitor in circuit so works out ok.

    I have been aware of an issue with the battery monitor however. It would appear to measure load currents and state of charge correctly. But at some stage would then report a large useage in Amp-hours when no loads applied. The monitor could be reporting 80% S.O.C when the solar charger is happy there is a full charge. I had to confirm this with a hydrometer at one stage.

    And then I saw the battery monitor freaking out. Load current jumping up to 20 odd Amps, back down to zero and then back up again, over and over. I witnessed this several times. My hunch was the Zig X-3 interfering as it was causing other problems. I was planning to take this unit out anyway and put in a 12V P.S.U. Just finished wiring up the P.S.U. It's on a changeover relay. When E.H.U is connected a relay switches from battery to P.S.U to supply loads. And my Maypole mains charger has the battery all to itself for overnight charging. I just need to remember to turn off the solar.

    The problem with the battery monitor going into oscillation did not go away however. Eventually I realised it was linked to my Solar controller. With a little investigation I could place a finger across the monitor interface PCB and stop the freak show. I ruled out a bad connection/ solder joint. This really just left an RFI or a shielding problem. I tried setting the PWM controller to different frequencies but no use. I tried placing some foil backed tape across the PCB but still no use.

    450744.JPG

    Solved! A 47 uF electrolytic cap across the Vin and Gnd terminals decouples the noise nicely. Would have preferred to try something in the pico range but this is what I had and it worked.

    So now with the Zig out of circuits, a new fusebox and some rewiring, parasitic load current down to 55mA.


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    #127
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Ground isolators don't always work as well as you hope.


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    #128
    jace_da_face
    Registered Users Posts: 480 ✭✭jace_da_face


    What's your thoughts on this Liam? Looking at my solar controller specs, should I set my charger to Gel? My battery is a standard wet cell and the controller is currently set to Flooded. But the Gel voltages look closer to Solar Bob's recommendation for 14.8 Volts.

    450787.png


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    #129
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Yes if you are willing to water your battery once every 6 months.

    Make sure the battery is fully charged and make notes of the baseline S.G. when you do so you can see any improvement or lack of. If you aren't satisfied with the results change the set-point or charge controller.

    If you want maintenance free at the cost of performance and longevity then 14.4V.

    Bob has retracted his upper threshold advice

    I get great results with 14.8V but to be honest I use the system so much and solar is my main input that it very rarely holds full absorption voltage, maybe 5 days a month I let it recuperate. I stopped doing maintenance charging every week a year ago it's only a rule of thumb to compensate for poor charger design.


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