Old unused beehive

Donadea Leo · 27-02-2019 2:03pm #1

Hi everybody, I 've just started a bee keeping for beginners course. I did one about 8 or 9 years ago and at the time bought a national beehive and frames supers etc, due to moving house, jobs, children etc., never got to point of getting bees, however now I m keener than ever to get going. The hive I have has sat in my parents garden for a good few years, all the frames are in it and it looks in pretty good order, the combs were never drawn, it seems to have been inhabited by plenty of spiders but don't see a lot of anything else, twas a sheltered spot. It probably needs a bit of outside gloss to help it survive. Would this be safe to use, do i need to get new frames, use anything special to clean it. Any expert advice would be very welcome

Thud · 27-02-2019 2:50pm

it should be ok, would suggest changing the foundation in the frames and giving the hive a clean out/disinfect. Unlikely to have any AFB/EFB spores if bees haven't been in it yet.

victor8600 · 27-02-2019 2:55pm

Donadea Leo wrote: »

Would this be safe to use, do i need to get new frames, use anything special to clean it. Any expert advice would be very welcome

If the foundation in the frames is not warped, they should be ok to use. Since there were no bees in the hive, you do not need to sterilize it, just use a brush to clean the dust and spider webs out. If you re-paint the hive, leave it without bees for few weeks.

Donadea Leo · 27-02-2019 3:16pm

victor8600 wrote: »

If the foundation in the frames is not warped, they should be ok to use. Since there were no bees in the hive, you do not need to sterilize it, just use a brush to clean the dust and spider webs out. If you re-paint the hive, leave it without bees for few weeks.

Super! Thanks a million

bpmurray · 28-02-2019 12:31am

Replace the foundation. The wax gets old and brittle and becomes unattractive to the bees as it sits around.

You should try to catch a swarm too. Go to your local health store and get a tiny weeny bottle of pure lemongrass oil, i.e. without additives. Pue ONE drop on top of the frames and ONE drop inside the entrance every week from late March onwards. DO NOT OVERDOSE. Ask your instructor on your beginners course if he can source an old disease-free brood frame, and put that into the hive if you can get it.

Doing this, you may well pick up a swarm before you get your bees through your association. If you put the hive higher up (2m or higher), you increase your chances.

Donadea Leo · 28-02-2019 12:20pm

Wow thanks for the tip. I 'll replace the foundation. I m looking to see if I can put the hives in forestry, anybody do this before. I have been in to coillte who have been very helpful I have to say. I know the hive could benefit from a bit of sun so I 'll have to look for a bit of a clearing. Any potential problems with altitude if the forest is on top of a hill.

Donadea Leo · 28-02-2019 10:29pm

Just on trying to catch a swarm. If I were lucky enough to manage this, how far could you transport them. We 've a flat roof in work with lots of nice big trees around it which might be a good location but it's about 35 minutes drive. That sounds like a lot in the boot of a car, how do people usually move bees and how do you keep them cool.

bpmurray · 01-03-2019 12:13am

First, Coillte are very helpful. Your membership of your beekeeping association provides insurance which grants Coillte explicit indemnity. I've never kept bees in a forest but if it contains broadleaf trees, there should be loads of forage for the bees. As for the height, my local BKA had an apiary quite high up and it turned out to be rather difficult for the bees - that little bit colder and they had to travel to find food.

Transporting bees is fine. The furthest I have done it is around 45km, and there was no problem. If you're transporting in hot weather, make sure they have plenty of ventilation as they can become overheated when stressed. You can use a ventilated roof - use mesh like that used in the floor to make sure they can't get out! And, of course, make sure that the frames in the hive are aligned in the direction of travel to prevent them swinging back & forth and squishing the bees.

BTW, if you get a chance to see a swarm arrive at their new home, it is something not to be missed. It's amazing to see the huge number of bees just vanish into the box. If they're going to move in, you'll see a lot of activity a couple of days in advance.

Thud · 01-03-2019 12:02pm

Would add to put it somewhere easy to access with a car in the forestry (and turn the car too), don't want to be lugging equipment distances

Donadea Leo · 01-03-2019 8:07pm

Thanks for all the super helpful replies. Another question, how many broadleaf trees would the bees need, most of the forests are coniferous as you all know but I had a look on Google earth and there s one patch of relatively newly planted trees but there appears to be a band of broadleaves maybe 20 or 30 about 400 metres away and plenty of hedgeriw in neighbouring fields. I don t know what type of trees they are till I go up myself and have a look.

I m trying to figure out how to get a bait hive up in the air so I get the chance to see a swarm go in if I m lucky enough for that to happen. I could probably attach some sort of platform to top of garden shed I guess. I need to slow down the enthusiasm a bit or I 'll drive everyone around me mad.

victor8600 · 04-03-2019 12:03pm

bpmurray wrote: »

.... And, of course, make sure that the frames in the hive are aligned in the direction of travel to prevent them swinging back & forth and squishing the bees. ..

This is a good advice! Also, do not inspect the hive several days before the move, frames will move less if you have not disturbed the propolis and the brace comb which glues them together.

Donadea Leo wrote: »

....I need to slow down the enthusiasm a bit or I 'll drive everyone around me mad.

Haha, this will happen anyway (from my experience

).

Thud · 04-03-2019 12:24pm

Donadea Leo wrote: »

Thanks for all the super helpful replies. Another question, how many broadleaf trees would the bees need, most of the forests are coniferous as you all know but I had a look on Google earth and there s one patch of relatively newly planted trees but there appears to be a band of broadleaves maybe 20 or 30 about 400 metres away and plenty of hedgeriw in neighbouring fields. I don t know what type of trees they are till I go up myself and have a look.

I m trying to figure out how to get a bait hive up in the air so I get the chance to see a swarm go in if I m lucky enough for that to happen. I could probably attach some sort of platform to top of garden shed I guess. I need to slow down the enthusiasm a bit or I 'll drive everyone around me mad.

Obviously closer forage is better but they will travel up to 3 miles, always surprised me how big an area that is, this will show you the rough area (ignore the error message), prevailing winds will effect this also.
http://bees.morkland.org/coverage/

Donadea Leo · 04-03-2019 5:48pm

Wow how cool is that. Thanks that makes for a really big area alright, I guess there s an element of trial and error if there are the right trees, hedgeriw etc. They might even make it to my own garden from where I was looking at.

lab man · 07-03-2019 9:12pm

Hi I dont want to jump yer thread , I'm thinking of getting 1 or 2 hives I've absolutely no idea about it but I e a small farm in west Clare, my idea would to put them in and let them off to do their own thing , any advice be great lab man

victor8600 · 08-03-2019 1:47pm

lab man wrote: »

Hi I dont want to jump yer thread , I'm thinking of getting 1 or 2 hives I've absolutely no idea about it but I e a small farm in west Clare, my idea would to put them in and let them off to do their own thing , any advice be great lab man

Two options:
- Do a beekeeping course (recommended). The next available one is a 1-week course in Gormanston https://irishbeekeeping.ie/wp-event/beekeeping-summer-school-gormanston-2019/
- Get a beekeeper to teach you the ropes and set you up

I would not recommend just getting a book and buying bees and hives. There are lots of small things that you would glance over in a book but which may be important in your particular circumstances.

brianmc · 08-03-2019 7:25pm

lab man wrote: »

Hi I dont want to jump yer thread , I'm thinking of getting 1 or 2 hives I've absolutely no idea about it but I e a small farm in west Clare, my idea would to put them in and let them off to do their own thing , any advice be great lab man

Letting them off to do their own thing isn't a plan I'd agree or disagree with. Local beekeepers may not be happy with you - an unmanaged colony can be a source of diseases. Local people may not be happy with you when swarms try to take up residence in their eaves.

If your aim is to help "save the bees", it would be much more useful to focus your efforts on what you can do for our wild pollinators (hint: flowers, flowers and more flowers). Honeybees aren't the ones under threat.

Check out pollinators.ie for advice on easy things to do to help.

bpmurray · 08-03-2019 9:24pm

lab man wrote: »

Hi I dont want to jump yer thread , I'm thinking of getting 1 or 2 hives I've absolutely no idea about it but I e a small farm in west Clare, my idea would to put them in and let them off to do their own thing , any advice be great lab man

If they are left to do their own thing, they will be dead within a couple of years - not treating for varroa is likely to spread viruses, and they'll be weakened and susceptible to EFB (a notifiable disease).

Since it's a farm, swarming probably won't cause major problems for neighbours, but there's a good chance they'll move into your roof.

Having a hive that swarms and spreads diseased bees across the countryside won't endear you to other beekeepers.

blue5000 · 09-03-2019 5:03pm

I'm not an expert lab man, but talk to other local beekeepers to find out where they sourced their bees so you can get yours from the same source. AFAIK cross breeding makes them aggressive.

lab man · 09-03-2019 6:42pm

Thanks for yer replies I'll take all into account especially about diseases there is a guy I know 8 miles away that keeps hives, I ll have a talk with him

Donadea Leo · 09-03-2019 8:01pm

I m not sure if it's started but I think there s a beekeeping course starting in u.l. running on wednesday night's I think. there is a stipulation you join the banner beekeepers association, I believe that's the only cost as far as I know. Have a look at their website, I 've already started one elsewhere and it's very interesting.

lab man · 10-03-2019 12:32pm

Donadea Leo wrote:

I m not sure if it's started but I think there s a beekeeping course starting in u.l. running on wednesday night's I think. there is a stipulation you join the banner beekeepers association, I believe that's the only cost as far as I know. Have a look at their website, I 've already started one elsewhere and it's very interesting.

Fair play thank you

11-03-2019 8:43am

Donadea Leo wrote: »

I m trying to figure out how to get a bait hive up in the air so I get the chance to see a swarm go in if I m lucky enough for that to happen. I could probably attach some sort of platform to top of garden shed I guess. I need to slow down the enthusiasm a bit or I 'll drive everyone around me mad.

Its not essential to place it high, it just increases the chances, but hives at normal height can be very successful too.
Just remember if you place it high, and you catch a swarm, you will need to move it back to normal level, and moving a full hive of bees while on the end of a ladder is something to think twice about...
Also there are limits as to how far you can move the bees once they have settled in the bait hive (less than 3 feet and more than 3 miles is the old adage) so consider this when you pick a location of the bait hive.

bpmurray · 12-03-2019 12:34am

Deleted User wrote: »

Also there are limits as to how far you can move the bees once they have settled in the bait hive (less than 3 feet and more than 3 miles is the old adage) so consider this when you pick a location of the bait hive.

Doesn't apply to a newly arrived swarm - they need a few days to imprint on the location. Keep an eye on the box and once you see bees bringing in pollen you know it's been occupied - other bees may simply be scouts checking it out, and there can be a huge number of scouts. Move them to their permanent site in a day or two and it'll be fine.

Old unused beehive

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