My autonomous lawn mower thread/blog

SchrodingersCat · 27-08-2018 11:53am

searay wrote: »

Hi, Just back from holidays and I got a “no loop signal” message on my 450x. It appears the local rabbits have been partying on the lawn while the dog was on her holiday.

I hope somebody can help me on how to find the break.

I can’t find any obvious break in the wire where the ground was disturbed. I tried to find the break using an Am radio but not sure my technique is right.

I disconnected the AL wire and tried to follow the cable around the boundary. In my view the interference on the radio was pretty constant.

I then did some spot checks around the perimeter and there seems to be radio interference everywhere. Should the signal not disappear once I’m checking after the break?

Any help appreciated.

First of all, I havent used the AM Radio technique myself. However, I would think that if you are picking up the signal constantly, then the signal may be too strong to differentiate between areas where the wire is fine and areas where the wire is broken. If that is the case, hold the am radio close to the base station and tune it to the signal. Then de-tune the radio so that you can just about hear the signal. Walk slowly around the boundary until you loose the signal. The direction (left or right of the base station) will depend on where you can still pick up the signal. Keep walking until you loose the signal. The break should be where ever that happens.

bauney · 29-08-2018 10:07am

Advice please.

I installed my 430x 10 days ago and so far so good on my existing lawn. No complaints with the mower yet.

However on a large patch of lawn i reseeded 3 and half weeks ago, i let my mower out on it on couple days ago to see how it would cope. however i realized that the reseeded grass was not as flush as i hoped as it was very patchy and the soil underneath is still wet and sticky (we had extremely wet august so the soil got very wet). so the mud ended up get stuck to the wheels and left tracks and muddied up parts of the new seeded lawn.

So now i have blocked the mower from the new area, waiting for the grass to thicken up and hoping for the soil to dry out.
Any one else ever seen this and any advice on how to proceed with mowing the new seeded lawn?

KCross · 29-08-2018 11:34am

bauney wrote: »

Advice please.

I installed my 430x 10 days ago and so far so good on my existing lawn. No complaints with the mower yet.

However on a large patch of lawn i reseeded 3 and half weeks ago, i let my mower out on it on couple days ago to see how it would cope. however i realized that the reseeded grass was not as flush as i hoped as it was very patchy and the soil underneath is still wet and sticky (we had extremely wet august so the soil got very wet). so the mud ended up get stuck to the wheels and left tracks and muddied up parts of the new seeded lawn.

So now i have blocked the mower from the new area, waiting for the grass to thicken up and hoping for the soil to dry out.
Any one else ever seen this and any advice on how to proceed with mowing the new seeded lawn?

The robots are out on the lawn a lot more than a manual mower so would not be good for a new lawn for a few months.

Do you really need to cut it? 3.5 weeks is way too quick to be cutting it imo. Hopefully someone with better gardening knowledge will come along to answer that point.

A newly seeded lawn is likely to be very thin. Why not let it grow and thicken up and then cut it.

Maybe even leave it for this year and then borrow a mower in the new year to give it its first cut and then let the robot loose on it?

It depends really on how strong the grass is, how much more growing is left in the year and how wet the soil is. Only you will know the answer to those questions for your lawn.

Ultimately, if its damaging the ground you need to take it off it until it thickens up and hardens up.

bauney · 29-08-2018 12:05pm

Thanks for the reply.
I was taking advice from the guys that seeded it. They said they seeded other lawns who let the robot mower out on it after 2 weeks of reseeding. So i heeded their advice.
Anyways, my common sense prevailed and i took it off quickly as it looked wrong and damaging.
I will keep off for next few weeks at least until i see the grass full and strong. If its not ideal i will do as you said - leave until new year and cut with alternative mower before letting my automower on it. Thanks for swift response

Zzippy · 29-08-2018 1:03pm

I would leave it a while too - block the mower from that area. Maybe strim it when it gets high, just to keep upward growth in check and let it thicken up, but leave the mower off it until next season. If the mower has already done some damage, might be worth throwing a bit more seed on to help it fill out.

Shaunoc · 29-08-2018 1:29pm

bauney wrote: »

Thanks for the reply.
I was taking advice from the guys that seeded it. They said they seeded other lawns who let the robot mower out on it after 2 weeks of reseeding. So i heeded their advice.
Anyways, my common sense prevailed and i took it off quickly as it looked wrong and damaging.
I will keep off for next few weeks at least until i see the grass full and strong. If its not ideal i will do as you said - leave until new year and cut with alternative mower before letting my automower on it. Thanks for swift response

i let mowbot loose on newly seeded lawn after 6/8 weeks and all has gone ok. initial cut I used a pushmower.
My lawn was though not as wet as your lawn sounds.
August has been showery but I imagine the ground moisture deficit in most parts of the country is well short. Drainage ok..?

bauney · 30-08-2018 9:27pm

Back again. I am getting a loop signal error with flashing blue light. Can a break in the guide wire cause this or just the boundary wire? I am at a loss at this now as there is no obvious spot I can see. I manage to step over the guide wire trying to find an break. This fixed the signal error but the mower worked for 5 mins before signal error again. Went straight back to area where I thought I had fixed it but no use this time, so.i yanked up the guide wire for 20 meters either side of this in hope to find something but nothing.
I tried the am radio but I couldn't get a clear pulse signal for boundary wire.

Any ideas?

KCross · 30-08-2018 9:58pm

Could be sending you wrong direction but when I got no loop signal it was the connections to the docking station were the problem.

I crimped them again and away it went. Worth checking that. Even wriggle those connections and see if you get a green light.

searay · 30-08-2018 10:01pm

bauney wrote: »

Back again. I am getting a loop signal error with flashing blue light. Can a break in the guide wire cause this or just the boundary wire? I am at a loss at this now as there is no obvious spot I can see. I manage to step over the guide wire trying to find an break. This fixed the signal error but the mower worked for 5 mins before signal error again. Went straight back to area where I thought I had fixed it but no use this time, so.i yanked up the guide wire for 20 meters either side of this in hope to find something but nothing.
I tried the am radio but I couldn't get a clear pulse signal for boundary wire.

Any ideas?

Trying to find a loop signal error myself and it’s not simple. I’m going to get my installer to find it.

The manual refers to disconnecting sides to find breaks, have you tried that?

I got the impression from that that the guide wire forms part of the loop which means a break would cause the loop signal problem.

Shaunoc · 30-08-2018 10:04pm

can you disconnect the guide wire temporarily to see if that is the root cause. if it is the guide at fault the loop signal should be back to normal. the check would only cost you a couple of connectors. may help rule it out/in

SchrodingersCat · 30-08-2018 10:04pm

bauney wrote: »

Back again. I am getting a loop signal error with flashing blue light. Can a break in the guide wire cause this or just the boundary wire? I am at a loss at this now as there is no obvious spot I can see. I manage to step over the guide wire trying to find an break. This fixed the signal error but the mower worked for 5 mins before signal error again. Went straight back to area where I thought I had fixed it but no use this time, so.i yanked up the guide wire for 20 meters either side of this in hope to find something but nothing.
I tried the am radio but I couldn't get a clear pulse signal for boundary wire.

Any ideas?

If the AM radio didnt work, another idea could be to use a cable finder such as the one here https://www.ebay.ie/itm/MS6812-Cable-Finder-Tone-Generator-Probe-Tracker-Wire-Network-Tester-Tracer-Kit/323365674691?hash=item4b4a189ec3:g:cOQAAOSwHZdbMKWT Connect one of the crocodile clips to one end of the boundary wire, and run the other crocodile clip to earth (use another piece of wire and a nail buried in the ground). You can walk around the boundary wire with the finder and look for when the tone dies off.

A trickier solution is to use a multimeter, a long wire, and pin. Put the multimeter on Contuinity check. Connect one lead to one end of the boundary wire. Now, pierce the boundary wire at various points with the pin and with the long wire, connect the pin to the other lead of the multimeter. You should get a tone/contuinity when there isnt a break. Use this in a "divide and conquer" approach to narrow down the search area for the break.

SchrodingersCat · 30-08-2018 10:07pm

KCross wrote: »

Could be sending you wrong direction but when I got no loop signal it was the connections to the docking station were the problem.

I crimped them again and away it went. Worth checking that. Even wriggle those connections and see if you get a green light.

Agreed, the connectors should be the first thing to look at.

KCross · 30-08-2018 10:20pm

SchrodingersCat wrote:

If the AM radio didnt work, another idea could be to use a cable finder such as the one here https://www.ebay.ie/itm/MS6812-Cable-Finder-Tone-Generator-Probe-Tracker-Wire-Network-Tester-Tracer-Kit/323365674691?hash=item4b4a189ec3:g:cOQAAOSwHZdbMKWT Connect one of the crocodile clips to one end of the boundary wire, and run the other crocodile clip to earth (use another piece of wire and a nail buried in the ground). You can walk around the boundary wire with the finder and look for when the tone dies off.

A trickier solution is to use a multimeter, a long wire, and pin. Put the multimeter on Contuinity check. Connect one lead to one end of the boundary wire. Now, pierce the boundary wire at various points with the pin and with the long wire, connect the pin to the other lead of the multimeter. You should get a tone/contuinity when there isnt a break. Use this in a "divide and conquer" approach to narrow down the search area for the break.

I wouldn’t like the idea of pin pricking the wire. It’s not your normal electrical wire. It has toughened outer insulation and pin pricking and putting it back in the ground is going to let moisture into it.

I suspect that would cause its own problems.

KCross · 30-08-2018 10:27pm

Shaunoc wrote: »

can you disconnect the guide wire temporarily to see if that is the root cause. if it is the guide at fault the loop signal should be back to normal. the check would only cost you a couple of connectors. may help rule it out/in

If you have guide wires you can connect the guide wire to the boundary connector on the docking station which will then bypass one portion of the boundary wire. If it solves it you know the break is between the disconnected boundary wire and where the guide and boundary are connected. Hope that makes sense.

The process is detailed in the manual iirc.

Start with checking the connectors at the docking station though as I think that’s more likely the issue as a buried wire is unlikely to just break.

bauney · 30-08-2018 11:20pm

I figured it just now. It was the husqvsrna crimp connector I used to join the boundary wire. I had loosen. It look fine when I took up but slightest tug and it loosened.
The only way I came to that point was via the use of a wireless radio headset. I popped them on and turn on AM and crawled around my garden at 10:30 pm with a torch. Neighbours must be thinking i have finally gone off my rocker.

I put my ear onto the wire at the base and could hear a distinct signal which reduced when off it. And so I went on for 20 meteres and tried again until I got no signal. Then I had to narrow up which took bit of time. Remember to unplug the AL wire to detect the break.
Anyone can pm me if any question on this as I was a doubting Thomas til I proved it.

SchrodingersCat · 31-08-2018 5:11pm

KCross wrote: »

I wouldn’t like the idea of pin pricking the wire. It’s not your normal electrical wire. It has toughened outer insulation and pin pricking and putting it back in the ground is going to let moisture into it.

I suspect that would cause its own problems.

Assuming that the AM radio trick, cable finder, connector inspection and cable inspection didnt work, then granted, its a last option.

The cable with a break is useless as it is anyway.

However, if you use the divide and conquer trick, for a 100m cable you only need to prick the cable 5 times to narrow the break down to 3m. You could easily patch it up again (if needed) with denso tape or something waterproof.

SchrodingersCat · 31-08-2018 5:12pm

bauney wrote: »

I figured it just now. It was the husqvsrna crimp connector I used to join the boundary wire. I had loosen. It look fine when I took up but slightest tug and it loosened.
The only way I came to that point was via the use of a wireless radio headset. I popped them on and turn on AM and crawled around my garden at 10:30 pm with a torch. Neighbours must be thinking i have finally gone off my rocker.

I put my ear onto the wire at the base and could hear a distinct signal which reduced when off it. And so I went on for 20 meteres and tried again until I got no signal. Then I had to narrow up which took bit of time. Remember to unplug the AL wire to detect the break.
Anyone can pm me if any question on this as I was a doubting Thomas til I proved it.

Great to hear it!

Ginger83 · 06-09-2018 2:09pm

I have 2 separate lawns approx 1200M sq each divided by a driveway thats due to be tarmaced soon.

I hope use use a narrow passage at side of house to link lawns.

Can I put a boundary wire around each lawn separately and link the two lawns through the narrow passage with one guide wire or would I need to bring the boundary wire through this passage also?

KCross · 06-09-2018 2:14pm

Ginger83 wrote: »

I have 2 separate lawns approx 1200M sq each divided by a driveway thats due to be tarmaced soon.

I hope use use a narrow passage at side of house to link lawns.

Can I put a boundary wire around each lawn separately and link the two lawns through the narrow passage with one guide wire or would I need to bring the boundary wire through this passage also?

Assuming you want the mower to cut the two lawns without you having to lift and shift the mower you will need the boundary wire to go through the passage at each side of it AND the guide wire down the middle of it.

Ginger83 · 06-09-2018 2:29pm

KCross wrote: »

Assuming you want the mower to cut the two lawns without you having to lift and shift the mower you will need the boundary wire to go through the passage at each side of it AND the guide wire down the middle of it.

Thanks, whats the minimum width allowed?

searay · 06-09-2018 3:03pm

Ginger83 wrote: »

Thanks, whats the minimum width allowed?

That’s correct. The mower will treat the passageway as a lawn and try and cut it until it gets on to the second lawn. If possible it should be 2 metres wide so the mower can go about 30 cm over the wire without hitting anything. Ideally cars shouldn’t drive on it in case someone hits the mower.

KCross · 06-09-2018 3:18pm

What mower are you buying?

For Husqvarna, I believe the guide wire has to be 30cm away from the boundary wire and the boundary will need to be about 35cm away from any walls/kerbs etc. The wider the better.

Ginger83 · 06-09-2018 3:56pm

KCross wrote: »

What mower are you buying?

For Husqvarna, I believe the guide wire has to be 30cm away from the boundary wire and the boundary will need to be about 35cm away from any walls/kerbs etc. The wider the better.

Viking Imow 632P.

Passage is 6 foot wide but i only have a 4 foot entry/exit point.

KCross · 06-09-2018 4:02pm

Ginger83 wrote: »

Viking Imow 632P.

Passage is 6 foot wide but i only have a 4 foot entry/exit point.

You can disregard my figures so. I dont know what tolerances the Viking has. I'd suggest you get your hands on the Viking manual or ask your local dealer.

JJ O Malley · 07-09-2018 1:08am

Hi all. Just purchased a robot mower. Our property has 3 lawns, all connected. There is a 2 meter wide x 12 meter long gravel / chipping path between the back and one of the front lawns. Can anyone please advise me if the automotors can handle driving across this ground? I will lay a guidewire. Alternatively I'll need to put down a strip of fake grass or something? The mower I bought is a Stiga autoclip 530SG. I appreciate that most may not have experience with this brand, but just interested in your experience with your machine.

The artificial grass strip was my own idea but would cost 150€ so I'd rather not buy it. I could flatten the ground if that would be sufficient..

Kind regards,
John

KCross · 07-09-2018 12:06pm

JJ O Malley wrote: »

Hi all. Just purchased a robot mower. Our property has 3 lawns, all connected. There is a 2 meter wide x 12 meter long gravel / chipping path between the back and one of the front lawns. Can anyone please advise me if the automotors can handle driving across this ground? I will lay a guidewire. Alternatively I'll need to put down a strip of fake grass or something? The mower I bought is a Stiga autoclip 530SG. I appreciate that most may not have experience with this brand, but just interested in your experience with your machine.

The artificial grass strip was my own idea but would cost 150€ so I'd rather not buy it. I could flatten the ground if that would be sufficient..

Kind regards,
John

No experience with the Stiga but I suspect it will struggle with loose stones/gravel. If its any way deep at all the wheels will spin into it and stop.

I'd suggest you just try it, if it doesn't work just get the fake grass then.

agentblue · 07-09-2018 12:57pm

JJ O Malley wrote: »

Hi all. Just purchased a robot mower. Our property has 3 lawns, all connected. There is a 2 meter wide x 12 meter long gravel / chipping path between the back and one of the front lawns. Can anyone please advise me if the automotors can handle driving across this ground? I will lay a guidewire. Alternatively I'll need to put down a strip of fake grass or something? The mower I bought is a Stiga autoclip 530SG. I appreciate that most may not have experience with this brand, but just interested in your experience with your machine.

The artificial grass strip was my own idea but would cost 150€ so I'd rather not buy it. I could flatten the ground if that would be sufficient..

Kind regards,
John

I can't recommend the fake grass solution. It works but after a few months the fake grass gets slippy and a bit moldy from the grass cuttings that fall off the underside and wheels of the mower. I had it down for two years and ended up taking it up.

I poured 2 concrete strips for vehicle access and sowed the rest in grass. The strips are level with the grass. The mower has no problems now.

listermint · 07-09-2018 1:04pm

agentblue wrote: »

I can't recommend the fake grass solution. It works but after a few months the fake grass gets slippy and a bit moldy from the grass cuttings that fall off the underside and wheels of the mower. I had it down for two years and ended up taking it up.

I poured 2 concrete strips for vehicle access and sowed the rest in grass. The strips are level with the grass. The mower has no problems now.

Eh.. sweep the fake grass every few weeks....

Or leave blow it or vacuum it.

Ginger83 · 07-09-2018 2:08pm

KCross wrote: »

You can disregard my figures so. I dont know what tolerances the Viking has. I'd suggest you get your hands on the Viking manual or ask your local dealer.

Can't really find the info i'm after in the viking manual online. Confusing stuff.

KCross · 07-09-2018 2:44pm

Ginger83 wrote: »

Can't really find the info i'm after in the viking manual online. Confusing stuff.

There has to be a section in the manual that details how to install the boundary and guide wires with instructions on how far to keep the cable back from walls/kerbs etc.

If they dont have that how do they expect people to install it!

Do you have a link to it and I might be able to decipher it for you?

JJ O Malley · 07-09-2018 5:25pm

Thanks for the reply.
I'll look into alternatives. A concrete path seems to be the cheapest and best option, unless anyone else has tried something else. I might even leave it and see how the mower gets on with the gravel..

Cheers
John

agentblue wrote: »

I can't recommend the fake grass solution. It works but after a few months the fake grass gets slippy and a bit moldy from the grass cuttings that fall off the underside and wheels of the mower. I had it down for two years and ended up taking it up.

I poured 2 concrete strips for vehicle access and sowed the rest in grass. The strips are level with the grass. The mower has no problems now.

Ginger83 · 07-09-2018 8:46pm

KCross wrote: »

There has to be a section in the manual that details how to install the boundary and guide wires with instructions on how far to keep the cable back from walls/kerbs etc.

If they dont have that how do they expect people to install it!

Do you have a link to it and I might be able to decipher it for you?

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1101868/Viking-Mi-632.html?page=72#manual

This is what i've been reading.

Ginger83 · 09-09-2018 8:40pm

What pipes would be suitable to put under tarmac to run wires through?

Would Qualpex be ok?

SchrodingersCat · 10-09-2018 12:34pm

Ginger83 wrote: »

What pipes would be suitable to put under tarmac to run wires through?

Would Qualpex be ok?

I reckon anything that is not metal.

KCross · 10-09-2018 12:50pm

KCross wrote: »

There has to be a section in the manual that details how to install the boundary and guide wires with instructions on how far to keep the cable back from walls/kerbs etc.

If they dont have that how do they expect people to install it!

Do you have a link to it and I might be able to decipher it for you?

Ginger83 wrote: »

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1101868/Viking-Mi-632.html?page=72#manual

This is what i've been reading.

I can decipher technical detail but not German!

Any English manual?

Ginger83 · 10-09-2018 2:14pm

KCross wrote: »

I can decipher technical detail but not German!
Any English manual?

I just chose the translate option.

JJ O Malley · 10-09-2018 2:52pm

SchrodingersCat wrote: »

I reckon anything that is not metal.

I've decided to put a concrete path to connect two gardens. I was thinking of burying the guidewire within a plastic pipe. Will the automotor definatley pick up the signal from the wire through the pipe and through say 1-2 inches of concrete? If not then I guess I should just leave a groove for the guidewire to sit in. Appreciate some advice if anyone has done this already.

Cheers
JJ

KCross · 10-09-2018 3:17pm

Ginger83 wrote: »

I have 2 separate lawns approx 1200M sq each divided by a driveway thats due to be tarmaced soon.

I hope use use a narrow passage at side of house to link lawns.

Can I put a boundary wire around each lawn separately and link the two lawns through the narrow passage with one guide wire or would I need to bring the boundary wire through this passage also?

KCross wrote: »

Assuming you want the mower to cut the two lawns without you having to lift and shift the mower you will need the boundary wire to go through the passage at each side of it AND the guide wire down the middle of it.

Ginger83 wrote: »

Thanks, whats the minimum width allowed?

The Viking appears to require 27cm clearance on each boundary wire to the edge so 54cm there plus 18cm between boundary wires to travel along, so a total of 72cm required. Well within your 4ft available.

It might be OK with less than 72cm (as narrow as 36cm) if the sides are not obstacles (i.e. walls) or cliffs (i.e. falling off a kerb).

Section 11.10 (Corridors) of the manual is what you need to read of that Viking manual.

I could be wrong but I dont think the Viking has any guide wires? Did the dealer say it had?
It appears to use "starting points" to get to remote lawns. So you would tell it to travel X cm's along the perimeter wire to get to your remote lawn rather than a guide wire where it just takes a direct route from the docking station through the corridor.

Guide wires are better. It means the mower spends less time travelling along the perimeter and can also find its way home ALOT quicker as well. Hence, more time mowing than just driving around.

If your lawn is small its OK but if you have a large space I would say guide wires are very important.

Ginger83 · 10-09-2018 4:47pm

KCross wrote: »

The Viking appears to require 27cm clearance on each boundary wire to the edge so 54cm there plus 18cm between boundary wires to travel along, so a total of 72cm required. Well within your 4ft available.

It might be OK with less than 72cm (as narrow as 36cm) if the sides are not obstacles (i.e. walls) or cliffs (i.e. falling off a kerb).

Section 11.10 (Corridors) of the manual is what you need to read of that Viking manual.

I could be wrong but I dont think the Viking has any guide wires? Did the dealer say it had?
It appears to use "starting points" to get to remote lawns. So you would tell it to travel X cm's along the perimeter wire to get to your remote lawn rather than a guide wire where it just takes a direct route from the docking station through the corridor.

Guide wires are better. It means the mower spends less time travelling along the perimeter and can also find its way home ALOT quicker as well. Hence, more time mowing than just driving around.

If your lawn is small its OK but if you have a large space I would say guide wires are very important.

Thanks for your help. I remeasured and i have 51.5 inches but there will be a concrete post each side of this measurement.

I could have been looking at a different video about guide wires. The reason i'm leaning towards a Viking is because we have a dealer local.

Could i put in 3 pipes? 1 centre pipe for a guide wire if needed and a pipe each side min 30cm away so it would cover both Viking and Husqvarna.

KCross · 11-09-2018 11:23am

Ginger83 wrote: »

Thanks for your help. I remeasured and i have 51.5 inches but there will be a concrete post each side of this measurement.

I could have been looking at a different video about guide wires. The reason i'm leaning towards a Viking is because we have a dealer local.

Could i put in 3 pipes? 1 centre pipe for a guide wire if needed and a pipe each side min 30cm away so it would cover both Viking and Husqvarna.

51in seems to be just on the margin but it fits their spec so you should be OK. I'd get the dealers agreement on it first so that if it doesn't work you have grounds to take it back... no point in telling them "a guy on the internet said it would work"!

I'd also get confirmation about the guide wires. The manual you posted didn't seem to mention them. I'd reconsider the Viking if it doesn't have guide wires based on your requirements.

I dont have experience with putting the wire in pipes. Again, you'll need to ask the dealer. My wires were laid on the grass and they sink into the ground after a few weeks of grass growth.

Putting them into pipes gives you little or no wriggle room to adjust them after so you would have to get it right first time.

septicsac · 13-09-2018 4:48am

Bought Husquarvana 450X last week. Got it installed, as I had over 700 metres of wire to put down and local installer has machine to do same. Up and running and so far so good, in fact so far great. Cutting 3 different lawns and making its way to each with no problems and grass has never looked better and only running for 1 week. Reckon these will be everywhere in less than 10 years.

Zzippy · 13-09-2018 1:20pm

septicsac wrote: »

Bought Husquarvana 450X last week. Got it installed, as I had over 700 metres of wire to put down and local installer has machine to do same. Up and running and so far so good, in fact so far great. Cutting 3 different lawns and making its way to each with no problems and grass has never looked better and only running for 1 week. Reckon these will be everywhere in less than 10 years.

Ours was the talk of the neighbourhood when it arrived apparently, we were new to the area and people thought we were rich! Now we've a neighbour with one too, and I wouldn't be surprised if there are a few more within a year or two. They really are a no brainer if your lawn is suitable.

Water John · 13-09-2018 1:24pm

Agree, but think Husky and its installation price is high, riding on the fact that they have a nationwide dealer network. They are taking a high margin.

KCross · 13-09-2018 1:27pm

septicsac wrote: »

Bought Husquarvana 450X last week. Got it installed, as I had over 700 metres of wire to put down and local installer has machine to do same. Up and running and so far so good, in fact so far great. Cutting 3 different lawns and making its way to each with no problems and grass has never looked better and only running for 1 week. Reckon these will be everywhere in less than 10 years.

They are around with 10yrs already. Becoming more popular all the time but I think there is a general mistrust of them and justifiable concerns around them being robbed (although I haven't heard of it actually happening).

And some people just like the hour of peace on their ride-on.

Zzippy wrote: »

Ours was the talk of the neighbourhood when it arrived apparently, we were new to the area and people thought we were rich! Now we've a neighbour with one too, and I wouldn't be surprised if there are a few more within a year or two. They really are a no brainer if your lawn is suitable.

The "suitable" piece is the key thing. Lots of lawns are not... steps, driveways dividing the lawns and narrow verges outside entrance walls etc being the biggest issues to overcome.

If you are building a new house its a no brainer, just organise that its all connected when laying out the lawn.

Water John · 13-09-2018 1:36pm

All technologies have that adoption phase. This can be long or short depending on a lot of factors. If it was young people who had the decision and also were the lawn cutters, automowers would be mainstream a long time ago.

wexfordman2 · 14-09-2018 12:12am

Water John wrote: »

All technologies have that adoption phase. This can be long or short depending on a lot of factors. If it was young people who had the decision and also were the lawn cutters, automowers would be mainstream a long time ago.

I think the adoption rate in Germany and in the continent is much higher than uk and Ireland. Apparrantly, we like to now our lawns

Water John · 14-09-2018 1:34am

Yes have relations laying out a lawn soon. Suggested they future proof the lawn by having it interconnected. They didn't quite get it.

bauney · 17-09-2018 10:09am

Just wondering what height are people setting there Automowers at?
I am using husky 430x for only past 6 weeks and have it at level 8. The grass appears as short as when i cut the grass with push mower.
Would the grass would do better if the automower was cutting another bit lower. (i know each lawn is different so hard to give accurate advice)

bauney · 17-09-2018 10:09am

Just wondering what height are people setting their Automowers at?
I am using husky 430x for only past 6 weeks and have it at level 8. The grass appears as short as when i cut the grass with push mower.
Would the grass would do better if the automower was cutting another bit lower. (i know each lawn is different so hard to give accurate advice)

Shaunoc · 17-09-2018 10:21am

bauney wrote: »

Just wondering what height are people setting their Automowers at?
I am using husky 430x for only past 6 weeks and have it at level 8. The grass appears as short as when i cut the grass with push mower.
Would the grass would do better if the automower was cutting another bit lower. (i know each lawn is different so hard to give accurate advice)

i just upped mine to 7 (husky 450) a couple of days ago from 6.
I notice the grass growth has slowed in the last week or 2.
i don't know if i can give any reasoning for my decision bar slower grass growth which might not be logical

i do mean to check the husky manual to see what the level correspond to in mm

PS: as a first season owner, i'm interested to see how it treats the fallen leaves

My autonomous lawn mower thread/blog

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