Why MHs should have Digital Voltmeter's in the Cab

11-01-2015 9:05pm #1

This is a recent development...

...Ah...better fix that...one of these days..

Ps. This voltmeter is junk, it's 150mV high of calibration, no passive filtering so makes the radio ring, and takes up my only cig. lighter port in the cab. Not as bad as it looks then..only ~15.5v at the battery

Still though this is useful information. Think of it like a temperature gauge never does much but when you need it you need it.

Aidan_M_M · 12-01-2015 9:31am

Thing is though Liam, the majority of MH owners drive Ducatos , and alternator failure is almost unheard of , unless they get jump started and the jump leads get connected wrong.

12-01-2015 10:30am

What's yer secret I get about one a year.
People not loading them to 80% max rating?

Hrmm let me check my problem solving flow-chart.

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

unless they get jump started and the jump leads get connected wrong.

I would've expected 24v to fry the ECU long before the alternator. Too many diodes see.

Given the amount of blown head gaskets you see wouldya remove the temp. guage?

Aidan_M_M · 12-01-2015 1:10pm

Just good quality alternators from Magneti Marelli or Bosch, with proper multi V belts on most since 94. And with a good output.
If you're doing one a year there has to be a weak link in the chain... Either poor quality parts when rebuilding, improper reassembly, something wrong with the way the batteries are pulling from it, or bad wiring. And knowing yourself I'm assuming it's none of those... So which suggests you need a higher output alternator.

I've never had a Ducato blow a head gasket.

12-01-2015 4:28pm

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

which suggests you need a higher output alternator.

Or two

...I reckon it'd save fuel...less coil resistance.

Bosch 55A.

Reconditioned last year by professional after slip rings wore out, tested in house to flash full output. Brushes every year. V-belt 6 month's old, new tensioner. Contacts all shiney. Seasonal regulator rotation.
Had a brush pop out and run short circuit for 50 miles there a few month's back that blew a track off the regulator PCB. Fixed since but not tested. Obviously that regulator in photo is toast, already swapped.

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

...something wrong with the way the batteries are pulling from it

Alternator -> battery -> auto-electrics & solar controller -> more batteries -> loadsov loads...eh..maybe.

12-01-2015 4:48pm

Point being if I hadn't spent €3 on this gizmo in a matter of month's I'd have no electrolyte in my starter battery. No battery warning light illumination for this condition. Dunno how those modern machines do things though. Plus I like to know cranking voltage drop and parallel loading drop.

moodrater · 13-01-2015 11:01pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Or two ...I reckon it'd save fuel...less coil resistance.

Bosch 55A.

Reconditioned last year by professional after slip rings wore out, tested in house to flash full output. Brushes every year. V-belt 6 month's old, new tensioner. Contacts all shiney. Seasonal regulator rotation.
Had a brush pop out and run short circuit for 50 miles there a few month's back that blew a track off the regulator PCB. Fixed since but not tested. Obviously that regulator in photo is toast, already swapped.

Alternator -> battery -> auto-electrics & solar controller -> more batteries -> loadsov loads...eh..maybe.

55A theres the explaination

If its eating brushes at that rate I'd wonder did your professional mill the commutator.

Every car I've ever owned has been driven to at least 120k miles in my ownership, wifes passat has nearly 220k miles and I've never changed or touched an alternator. Put a bullet in that yoke.

13-01-2015 11:28pm

It only eats one brush at a time and it's a different one this time since last recon.
By professional I mean a person who is paid to do a thing...I think most people assume they're experts. :pac:

Yeah you're right I should put it down but don't fancy making a new loom tbh.
I've a list as long as my arm on how things should be in that machine, priorities M.

Three days now fighting with a starter motor, had another "professional" recondition it, then made him re-recondition it because it was still fecked.
Alternator can wait til the weather improves...when I'll not be bothered cos the PV will be kicking bottom.
Next job is the fuel sender and tank...haveta go in from underneath too...some smart chap put a conversion on top of the access hatch. :rolleyes:

moodrater · 20-01-2015 9:03pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

..some smart chap put a conversion on top of the access hatch. :rolleyes:

hard to make a camper without covering something

20-01-2015 11:09pm

Best rule of thumb is design it to remove it again. My kitchen unit is a nightmare, nothing modular about it.

I may be reconsidering shooting that alternator...except it does make running it through a 45A solar controller more difficult.

I've another regulator in now and when the battery is charged and unloaded it's still kicking out 15.5V. Any ideas what it might be? I'm going to splash out on a new reg. before I autopsy it. Recently replaced the battery so it's possible the symptom is old but the older battery was never "fully charged" to be an issue.

What are the potential hazards of driving with the brushes shorted? I thought no excitation = no problem.
Just wondering if the coil packs might be damaged.

It lifted a track between a transistor collector (datasheet) and a diode on the regulator. See the jumper bodge below.

20-01-2015 11:15pm

It only seems to be over-voltage when the engine idles.

Aidan_M_M · 21-01-2015 1:17pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

It only seems to be over-voltage when the engine idles.

Would an Audi A4 ALT be any use to you?

21-01-2015 2:12pm

Anything like this?

Part no. 0120 489 331 332

Nekarsulm · 22-01-2015 1:07pm

Sir Liamalot, I have just spotted your problem solving flow chart. I particularly like the closed loop between "Can you blame someone else" and "You poor Bastard" !!

gctest50 · 22-01-2015 1:29pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Anything like this?
....

a better alternator instead maybe ? ( see attached salesy stuff )

little trucks have ones with two internal fans and external regulator

https://www.google.ie/search?q=mitsubishi+isuzu+12v+truck+alternator

Aidan_M_M · 22-01-2015 2:05pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Anything like this?

Part no. 0120 489 331 332

Sorry Liam, no. How about a mk2 Golf one?

22-01-2015 2:12pm

Ah think I'll be alright for a bit T. thanks though. May get back to you if I can't fix this.
It's fine if I turn the dipped lights on. I have a selection of alternators myself although none of them are a straight swap.

22-01-2015 10:12pm

gctest50 wrote: »

a better alternator instead maybe ? ( see attached salesy stuff )

little trucks have ones with two internal fans and external regulator

Oops I skipped a page didn't see this.
Yeah thought about it but it's a big job, may still to it although I'm tempted to put a second one in there if I'm going to that sortov bother.

The wires off my present will only take about 60A through a house....not through an engine bay so they'll have to be upgraded; not a massive job but finicky. Then I also have to current limit the input to my solar controller or go back to CV charging for my deep cycles.
I've been relying on it's crapness to self-regulate really.

moodrater · 22-01-2015 10:52pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Anything like this?

Part no. 0120 489 331 332

That looks like the same dimensions as the old eclass, it should be really easy to find a 120A alternator, pulley might be a slightly different diamter. Some of those had 180A or more, a second battery, 220V power and a natty split charge system with a colossal relay. So if you're lucky enough to find an exec spec model in the scrap yard you mightend up bringing home more toys :pac:

edit:

115A one here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-W210-E280-98-96-02-ALTERNATOR-70-115A-0101543202-/400334317954?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AMercedes-Benz&hash=item5d35c8e982

£20 + parcel motel although I'd spend more than the 2 minutes I spent looking to find a younger cleaner one.

edit:
Looks like the 190A ones were watercooled, not worth the bother.

23-01-2015 12:44am

Water cooled three phase! :pac:
What could possibly go wrong?

07-02-2015 6:31pm

moodrater wrote: »

That looks like the same dimensions as the old eclass

Doesnay fit though. My pulley shaft is 13mm longer.
Don't fancy making a frankenator...even though I haven't ruled it out.

So what causes overvoltage?
Any way of checking the phases without getting into the diode pack?

It's a no-load condition with 0A (clamp meter) to the starter battery
New starter battery.
Soon as I put a >25W load on it behaves.

Internal short?

I'm starting to wonder if I've just made the electrical system too clean and having a starter battery that actually is 100% charged most of the time is reducing it's ability to voltage clamp the alternator.

3 different regulators now one of them new (spurious, 14.7v rated).
Alternator & battery contacts shiney. +ive bus needs a going over iirc but it's a tad buried.

moodrater · 07-02-2015 7:56pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Doesnay fit though. My pulley shaft is 23mm longer.

Shafts are different for solid and freewheel pulleys, freewheel screw onto the shaft solid is bolted on. Is the overall pulley position not the same though unless the drawing are wrong 36+56 = 92.

If your d+ is overloaded e.g. driving a relay if so disconnect it and see if it behaves, if it does you can drive the relay via a transistor to unload the d+

25W load is no problem just fit some d+ activated DRLs not naff led one on your era van though

07-02-2015 9:43pm

Armchair lectricks :pac:
I'll check the D+ & slip ring line resistance and B+ to ground continuity one of these days...

Nah D+ is stock. I'm not a fan of the trad. split charge setup, I think a manual relay is preferable.

Already have 220W DRL on two 110W splits. My headlamps are what's holding my grille together so it was easier install new one's rather than wash the old.

I did eventually get around to cleaning the lenses and restoring the covers the 4th grille rebuild.

Auto-loading it off an ignition switched live is easy enough but just seems like the wrong way to fix it tbh. I know they can go to mental voltages is you run them without a battery to clamp them so maybe it's a design stipulation.

moodrater wrote: »

Shafts are different for solid and freewheel pulleys, freewheel screw onto the shaft solid is bolted on.

What's the difference between a bolt and a screw then? Mine's nutted on I think and if I was to guess I'd say solid.

moodrater wrote: »

Is the overall pulley position not the same though unless the drawing are wrong 36+56 = 92.

Seems so, had a digital callipers run from the back of the bolt-hole to the roughly displaced centre of the pulley on mine and it's 105mm give or take...no amount of eyeballing was taking 13mm all the same, and that's running true to the crank pulley.

For £20 it'd make a good bicycle dynamo worst case scenario but if it's a wiring issue I'd rather suss it first.

moodrater · 07-02-2015 11:08pm

RE: overvoltage
There'd be a zener in there for overvoltage protection probably. They would be the hottest and first to go.

Re: alternator
Ahh the tinternet looks like the drawing you linked was wrong alright.
DATA_21%5C199747.jpg

I assumed the 20 quid one had a freewheel pulley on it because it was newer fangled is it solid? You can get all different offsets on the pulleys if it is 101mm then something like this fella might do the trick you'd obviously want to do some careful measuring.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-GROOVE-SOLID-METAL-ALTERNATOR-PULLEY-60MM-17MM-HOLE-/251538007620?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a90d56644

07-02-2015 11:59pm

moodrater wrote: »

RE: overvoltage
There'd be a zener in there for overvoltage protection probably. They would be the hottest and first to go.

I reckon you're onto something there.
That brush short that burnt my reg track coulda popped a zener no probs.
Hrmmm, wouldn't be difficult bodge an external one in somewhere. More elegant than a constant load too.

Wheredya get those schematics? I was having trouble finding them earlier, my google tracker bots need training.

moodrater wrote: »

I assumed the 20 quid one had a freewheel pulley on it because it was newer fangled is it solid?

Dunno, I didn't buy it, the vents look a little charred methinks...might go for the £30 model instead.

moodrater wrote: »

...something like this fella might do the trick

:eek: £17...areya mad!!? Sher ya can get an almost entire alternator fer that!! :eek:

Thanks M.
Plenty there to ponder.

May try a €2 zener, transistor and a 30Watt resistor sortov arrangement possibly first. Hrmm not much to trigger the base with though.

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

No battery warning light illumination for this condition.

PS. the battery light will glow at the 16V mark.

09-02-2015 3:05am

moodrater wrote: »

Ahh the tinternet looks like the drawing you linked was wrong alright.

0123 510 066

moodrater · 09-02-2015 2:33pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

0123 510 066

Looks like a decent offset alright. You'd definitely need to get out out the calipers and measure properly. The magnetti marelli drawing for you alternator says 101mm too but the valeo one says 92mm. Maybe be measuring to the first vee rather than center line.

moodrater · 09-02-2015 2:43pm

Just thinking with your engine does the B measurement even matter does the nut just go directly on the backof the b part?

09-02-2015 3:12pm

I'm not sure M. I've yet to see a diagram clearly indicate what B is. I need the full 101mm alright, the boltholes are mated on both sides.

So sticking a petrol alternator in a diesel with a diesel pulley are the gear ratios going to be ok for lower RPM?

moodrater · 09-02-2015 3:39pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

I'm not sure M. I've yet to see a diagram clearly indicate what B is. I need the full 101mm alright, the boltholes are mated on both sides.

So sticking a petrol alternator in a diesel with a diesel pulley are the gear ratios going to be ok for lower RPM?

Theres loads of diesel ones measuring 101mm too 190d, 200d, e200, c200, vito v230, old sprinter all came with the om601 good chance one or more will have similar dimensions.

09-02-2015 6:15pm

Too late took a punt on a petrol model before it occurred to me. I imagine the gearing is on the pulley size and seems there's a lot of vehicles running similar alternators on different fuels.

The thick plottens.

Which dya reckon are better? OEM bearings with a few hundred thou miles on or new cheap and nasty Chinese ones? :pac:

moodrater · 09-02-2015 7:58pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Too late took a punt on a petrol model before it occurred to me. I imagine the gearing is on the pulley size and seems there's a lot of vehicles running similar alternators on different fuels.

The thick plottens.

Which dya reckon are better? OEM bearings with a few hundred thou miles on or new cheap and nasty Chinese ones? :pac:

Neighbours merc is on 380k miles with original bearings. Obviously water, dirt ingress, standing periods etc can knacker the bearings too.

Smaller pulley will turn the alternator 33.3% faster than the big pulley. But diesel engine will be turning on average slower than the petrol and never hit the high revs.

Ratio in the car was 3.64 in your van it would be 3.97 with the larger crank pulley.

*Kol* · 09-02-2015 8:11pm

As a matter of interest how much is a new OEM alternator?

moodrater · 09-02-2015 8:16pm

*Kol* wrote: »

As a matter of interest how much is a new OEM alternator?

The oem one is archaic and the external fan is useless.

09-02-2015 8:16pm

Larger crank pulley, larger alternator pulley. Gosh you do your homework!

There comes a time in life M. where calculations slow ya down. Slap it together, fire it up and stick a finger on it to see how hot it's getting at full load! (My life anyways)

I've no problem with a 55A alternator at the end of the day, but seeing as 60A extra was the same price as a diode pack (not inc. cable + maybe recon kit) seemed all round better than bodging semiconductors in the nethers.

Less I have to current limit the TS the easier.

09-02-2015 8:30pm

*Kol* wrote: »

As a matter of interest how much is a new OEM alternator?

€120 last time I priced one. Just a Bosch though not OE.

Why's the E280 double rated? 70-115A

moodrater · 09-02-2015 8:33pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Larger crank pulley, larger alternator pulley. Gosh you do your homework!

There come's a time in life M. where calculations slow ya down. Slap it together, fire it up and stick a finger on it to see how hot it's getting at full load! (My life anyways)

I've no problem with a 55A alternator at the end of the day, but seeing as 65A extra was the same price as a diode pack (not inc. cable + maybe recon kit) seemed all round better than bodging semiconductors in the nethers.

Less I have to current limit the TS the easier.

I have a tons of pdf catalogues on a drive here takes a couple of seconds to find a part or dimensions. I'm usually bodgiing something onto something else.

The problem with the 55A is the cooling hardly any of the air actually goes into the alternator. The design goes back to at least the early 60s it was rubbish back then too

moodrater · 09-02-2015 9:02pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

€120 last time I priced one. Just a Bosch though not OE.

Why's the E280 double rated? 70-115A

1800rpm and 6000rpm divide by 4 for your pulley ratio. Now I have to do some actual work.. boring

09-02-2015 9:26pm

moodrater wrote: »

The problem with the 55A is the cooling hardly any of the air actually goes into the alternator. The design goes back to at least the early 60s it was rubbish back then too

Always suspected as much I never used more than 50% rated under 80kmph.

moodrater wrote: »

I have a tons of pdf catalogues on a drive

I keep asking Mercedes for those and they keep laughing. They'll only give me a page per part I buy.

09-02-2015 9:40pm

moodrater wrote: »

Smaller pulley will turn the alternator 33.3% faster than the big pulley.

Shorter belt so.

I'll save you the maths because I have one 5mm shorter in stock so lets try that first.

Automatic tensioner anyways probably no need.

15-02-2015 10:19pm

Rather spectacular fail I'm afraid.

Took my relic off. Fitted the w210 alternator, mounted perfect, wee bitta slack on the belt but nothing to worry about. Fired her up and got nothing.
Waited a bit longer then still nothing. Turned off the engine the starter battery was 10.4V and my battery light was still on.

I pulled the D+ diode outtov the fusebox; battery light stayed on.
Got out, looked at the alternator and it was bellowing magic smoke.
Grabbed a side cutters and snipped the wires off.

Old alternator B+ #1 and B+ #2 combined on new alt. B+.
D+ to D+.

It was still warm to touch 30mins later.

Autopsy reports; coils ok, bearings not bad, slip rings down 70%, rotor paint chipping and flash rust, brushes on the limits of serviceability, one burnt to a crisp diode on two phases; failed closed (perfect previous to install), another diode on the remaining phase damaged, forward biased resistance much higher than the survivors. Diode trio intact. Didn't see any zeners...except inside the regulator.
So this manifest as dead shorts across the three phases.

While I had the relic off I gave it a beating trying and failing to crack it open with all the wrong tools. I don't know if it was the problem but seems my steel cable retention clip has the ability to wander and create a short off the B+ if so inclined. I was reading a short between a B+ and ground (one of 2) which is particularly strange because it seems the B+ terminals are in parallel in a later test (educated guess says one's headed for the starter motor then battery and thuther is headed for the +ive bus then fusebox).

The relic is refitted and working, I don't know if it's still over-voltage because I haven't charged the starter battery fully after it powered my little alternator bonfire. The loom looks fine. Connector to alternator little worse for wear but serviceable.
See how it does in a while.

moodrater · 16-02-2015 2:23pm

Such short. Very smoke. Wow.

Unlucky it must have had mega hours up on it to be that worn. I suppose with unknown providence its worth bench testing with a drill.

Hows the old beast holding up today?

16-02-2015 3:51pm

Bench tested resistance fine on everything.
I was getting reversed biased resistance but it was in the order of MΩ

I'm still trying to figure it out, and debating whether it's work spending €25 on a new diode pack for a €40 alternator than still needs a set of slip rings and brushes and all the while may still explode again.

I needed two 9.5mm male blade crimps to connect into the old loom B+ (for test purposes only before new loom was made). Couldn't find them, tried Halfords, Maplins, 2 others, so i just stripped 4mm² wire back 15mm and marmaladed it into the connectors which was a sloppy fit but did work (i think). Then lecky taped them in.

However if it went no load over-voltage I would have expected the D+ to have briefly gone out then pop the dash bulb. Considering how melted my bodge wires were I expect they were making connection.

Which beast? The W210 alt. is stripped to the stator pending further investigations.
The Merc lump is bulletproof.

My stock main +ive and -ive are ~80mm²...shorts don't bother them a whole lot.
Split charge relay is currently topping up the starter after yesterday's endeavours off PV. I won't know until later in the week whether I did any good beating on my stock alternator.

FWIW my brake light (fluid switch and pad wear switches) are also tied to the D+ somehow, every time I lose a regulator the brake light comes on with the battery light.
Also depending on the regulator sometimes my oil pressure light doesn't illuminate (W210 reg. being one of these).

moodrater · 17-02-2015 12:54pm

Definitely not worth putting a diode pack in it. Ask for your money back and get another one. Definitely bench test the next one

. . .                         
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                          |                           
                      ,--'#`--.                       
                      |#######|                       
                   _.-'#######`-._                    
                ,-'###############`-.                 
              ,'#####################`,               
             /#########################\              
            |###########################|             
           |#############################|            
           |#############################|            
           |#############################|            
           |#############################|            
            |###########################|             
             \#########################/              
              `.#####################,'               
                `._###############_,'                 
                   `--..#####..--'

17-02-2015 5:16pm

Yeah probably not. I was in the supermarket the other day trying to figure out where I'd get 600V to insulation test the coils. I decided to focus on the cheese I wanted instead of microwave transformers for health reasons.

I'm a bit sceptical that it was faulty in the first place, and more inclined towards something I did fried it.

I've been re-inacting my bodge connection under vibration testing and dreadful as it was it should have handled a flash few amps.
Hard to tell if it was arcing, but I reckon you need >30V to make an arc.

Not sure if there's much point sending it back, the rectifier stinks of fried silicon, the connections to the phases are cut, and the rectifier pack has been forcibly split, and stud diodes cut at the legs. It's clearly been tampered with.

Do you reckon that there's no good installation reason for it to fail like that? That it was the alternator?
Seeing as I've already spent the price of an alternator on new loomage I'd be almost tempted try another.

moodrater · 17-02-2015 9:59pm

Just tell them you hooked it up and it self destructed would they have another one. I doubt they'll be looking for it back probably at least offer you a partial refund.

Unless there was a massive short on the b+ or theres something really funky about your d+ I can't see what would have caused it. You could bypass the van d+ with a bulb.

Just had a quick google and it looks like d+ just goes through the bulb to ignition no shennannigans although it is very fuzzy:
https://services.ubal.to/mercedes/Mercedes-207-208-210-307-308-310-408-410D.pdf

Also looks like one b+ is to the solenoid and battery as you suspected and the other is to the ignition.

re: insulation don't you have a megger?

I just moved up the directory tree and he has other diagrams:
https://services.ubal.to/mercedes/Mercedes-schema-207D.pdf
https://services.ubal.to/mercedes/Mercedes-schema-208D.pdf

17-02-2015 11:53pm

What would happen if you parallel the D+ and B+? Just a thought....battery light would come on with no key for one...hrmm wasn't that so.

moodrater wrote: »

Just had a quick google and it looks like d+ just goes through the bulb to ignition no shennannigans although it is very fuzzy:

https://services.ubal.to/mercedes/Mercedes-207-208-210-307-308-310-408-410D.pdf

Ha! I have the paper copy of that and it's never made any sense to me...those diagrams are too bloomin' cluttered, conductors running off the page never to be seen again. I was looking at it before you posted and just discarded it.

moodrater wrote: »

...he has other diagrams:

I just finished translating that to English.

K4 is the D+ relay. Let me know if you can make any sense of it...or no worries if you're not bothered either.

7-15%20Diesel_zpslr9yyx6h.jpg?t=1424129632

moodrater wrote: »

Also looks like one b+ is to the solenoid and battery as you suspected and the other is to the ignition.

Well it's loomed in the opposite direction through the firewall and if I turn on the vehicle electrics I don't get any reading on the clamp meter at the battery which leads me to suspect it's T'd between starter motor -> battery and auto-electrics (on 2 x 32A cable

). That or it's T'd at the starter motor and doubles back on itself after.
I guess all I know for sure is the starter battery is the end of a stock circuit.
{EDIT} They're both going to the +ive bus twould seem. I guess they were trying to be a fancy Mk-1 3 wire alternator.

moodrater wrote: »

re: insulation don't you have a megger?

Nope never needed one. Most days all I take to work is a Sharpie, adjustable spanner and a multitool.

moodrater · 18-02-2015 12:46am

K4, B5 etc is all optional for heated rear windows. If you don't have heated windows then you can ignore the 122 connection and d+ should just go to one side of the bulb and the other to the switched live on the ignition.

Russek is missing a few wires alright, but the merc schematic though I'm sure electrically correct is crap as it doesn't indicate where all those dot junctions actually take place.

I reckon they've incorrectly dotted the line from 122 to the relay coil. was reading it wrong.

18-02-2015 1:37am

No heated windows, interior light (it's there but never worked and I never fixed it), clock (now hotwired off hazards I think), tacho, tilting headlamps.
Can't find 122 but I've no idea how to read this once a conductor leaves the page. I know what you mean though.

The D+ shares F15 ("diode monitor") with the brakes. (see beside K4 relay 30 terminal) If I pull that the pre-ignition indicator lights go out.

moodrater · 18-02-2015 12:32pm

122 is 120 on the schematic you posted its a reference to the vertical coordinate on the schematic where the wire is headed.

Across the bottom of the schematic is numbered linearly

107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 etc.

So when the wire is headed off you look along the bottom of the schematic for the number e.g. 120 you'll see a wire heading off for 7 which is where you came from so thats the wire you want.

F15 shouldn't knock out the charge light according the diagrams wit should get switched live direct from the ignition and earth via the d+ until the alternator is charging.

18-02-2015 4:22pm

Yup my bad.

If I pull this D1 diode the brake light warning turns off pre-ignition.

Why MHs should have Digital Voltmeter's in the Cab

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