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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread
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macplaxton wrote: »Like this?
Yep like that.
However I can't get the fecking fork caps off, they unscrewed from the fork tubes easily but won't come off the preload adjuster rod
applied what should be more than enough force but won't budge. Scrap the cap!
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »Yep like that.
However I can't get the fecking fork caps off, they unscrewed from the fork tubes easily but won't come off the preload adjuster rod applied what should be more than enough force but won't budge.
Yer using two spanners to hold one nut and loosen 'tother yeh?0 -
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Yep that's exactly what I was doing, don't have a vice to hold the tube in though which makes it awkward. Think I'll need another pair of hands. Or just clamp the tube into the top and bottom yokes again...?
The blue preload adjuster has a circlip near the bottom of it - manual makes no mention of removing it so presumably it's ok to leave that in place while removing.
Great pics there though, much better than the SV forum I was looking at - or the copy of the workshop manual I have. I'll be bookmarking that
Thanks. Scrap the cap!
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This is where I'm at:
Holding the dark grey nut steady in a 17mm spanner, I've turned the 22mm nut (fork cap) and it turns easily (on the preload adjuster, the blue threaded thing) until it reaches the end of its travel and then won't budge.
I've also tried turning the 14mm blue nut (preload adjuster) directly and get similar results.
The dark grey nut is quite a bit above the bottom of its travel, maybe I should try to free it by turning it clockwise (downwards) while gripping the rod in a vise grips? Need to be careful not to cause damage though.
It's not like I haven't rebuilt forks before, these ones seem more awkward than is reasonable :PScrap the cap!
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »This is where I'm at:
Holding the dark grey nut steady in a 17mm spanner, I've turned the 22mm nut (fork cap) and it turns easily (on the preload adjuster, the blue threaded thing) until it reaches the end of its travel and then won't budge.
I've also tried turning the 14mm blue nut (preload adjuster) directly and get similar results.
The dark grey nut is quite a bit above the bottom of its travel, maybe I should try to free it by turning it clockwise (downwards) while gripping the rod in a vise grips? Need to be careful not to cause damage though.
It's not like I haven't rebuilt forks before, these ones seem more awkward than is reasonable :P
Get a 17 and 14 and turn in opposite directions. 17 clock 14 anti clock.0 -
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I have made some more progress lately on my Honda CB550 build. I have a set of Showa forks and Brembo M50 brakes to update the front end of the bike. This combination of forks and brakes meant I couldn't find a front wheel hub that would be the correct width so I have machined one that will hopefully work. I have sent it off to be vapour blasted and after that I will get it built into a wheel and see if the spokes clear the brakes. Its definitely going to be very close. The radial brakes sit very close to each other so there is little room for the spoke pattern to sit in between. I have 5mm clearance in CAD but its difficult to know exactly how the spokes will sit when in place. This combination of brakes and forks is used on triumphs with cast wheels which dont require as much space. Fingers crossed it works. I havent started the yokes until I know there is enough clearance. If not I will have to increase the fork spacing and add shims under the brake discs which would be annoying as the fork spacing is already very wide.
Machining finished. I have sent it away to be vapour blasted so it will have a raw aluminium matte finish when its complete.
I kind of wish I had made it a bit lighter than its turned out. Maybe in the future I will look at doing another when the project is finished. The bolt pattern of the discs are on quite a large diameter which means the spoke holes need to be on an even larger diameter which just makes hub quite big as well as the fork spacing making it quite wide.
The raw stock size at the start of the turning process. Its just made from 6082 T6 aluminium.
The flanges for the spokes are formed with a 3 degree taper. The wheel bearings are just normal press fit with a circlip on one side similar to a lot of bikes today.
The brake disc mounting is then machined. I have a set of nice titanium brake disc bolts off ebay to go on. Amazingly these are half the price of the Triumph steel ones.
I turned a new spindle and wheel spacers to go with the hub
The shaft is 308 stainless and the spacers are just aluminium
A hexagon is machined then bolted to the shaft to add the hex head onto the end.
Just a picture showing the spindle, bearings, spacers and seals
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Fox Mulder wrote: »I have made some more progress lately on my Honda CB550 build. I have a set of Showa forks and Brembo M50 brakes to update the front end of the bike. This combination of forks and brakes meant I couldn't find a front wheel hub that would be the correct width so I have machined one that will hopefully work. I have sent it off to be vapour blasted and after that I will get it built into a wheel and see if the spokes clear the brakes. Its definitely going to be very close. The radial brakes sit very close to each other so there is little room for the spoke pattern to sit in between. I have 5mm clearance in CAD but its difficult to know exactly how the spokes will sit when in place. This combination of brakes and forks is used on triumphs with cast wheels which dont require as much space. Fingers crossed it works. I havent started the yokes until I know there is enough clearance. If not I will have to increase the fork spacing and add shims under the brake discs which would be annoying as the fork spacing is already very wide.
Machining finished. I have sent it away to be vapour blasted so it will have a raw aluminium matte finish when its complete.
I kind of wish I had made it a bit lighter than its turned out. Maybe in the future I will look at doing another when the project is finished. The bolt pattern of the discs are on quite a large diameter which means the spoke holes need to be on an even larger diameter which just makes hub quite big as well as the fork spacing making it quite wide.
The raw stock size at the start of the turning process. Its just made from 6082 T6 aluminium.
The flanges for the spokes are formed with a 3 degree taper. The wheel bearings are just normal press fit with a circlip on one side similar to a lot of bikes today.
The brake disc mounting is then machined. I have a set of nice titanium brake disc bolts off ebay to go on. Amazingly these are half the price of the Triumph steel ones.
I turned a new spindle and wheel spacers to go with the hub
The shaft is 308 stainless and the spacers are just aluminium
A hexagon is machined then bolted to the shaft to add the hex head onto the end.
Just a picture showing the spindle, bearings, spacers and seals
Not that you need me telling you it but super work! Envious of your skill set and ability.;)
From my experience of Brembo and spoke clearence on a 19 and 21 inch wheel is that it's as you describe. I've about 4mm spoke clearence on the 19 with conventional P4 30/34 and nil on the 21. Nor sure what constitutes a safe clearence but I wouldnt want it less.
That hub assembly is beautiful:cool:0 -
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macplaxton wrote: »The grey 17 nut is just a locknut. Looking from the top wind that one clockwise so it moves down. Use the 14 to hold the top of the blue bit or move anticlockwise.
Get a second pair of hands or use a Workmate® (preferably an old Irish-made one!)
Well I managed it. Just needed to use a big adjustable wrench on the 17mm nut (longer than my 17mm spanner, and a tigher fit!) and I was able to undo it.
Got the cartridge out on one side just by unscrewing the bottom bolt (loosened previously while still on the bike), on the other side I had to put the spring and fork cap back in temporarily to get the bolt undone.
Then the fun bit - slide-hammering the fork seals out
So it's all disassembled now. I have new bushes, spring clips etc. as well as new seals to go in. I figured the old spring clips would be rusted due to water getting under the dust seals, and they were. Next step - clean and paint the fork sliders...
Scrap the cap!
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I have a degreaser here to do wipe it down with before spraying.
its a very similar bike to the DR750. Dad was initially looking for one of those and got a 2005 Australian import instead.
he has the 2005 and a 2014 DR650se now, the 2005 has been around most of the world apart from America at this point.
This one is a 1996 that was crashed by the previous owner and then Dad had the frame straightened by a guy who does race bikes up
if it chips it isn't too bad a bike to strip down, will be another few weeks to assemble though, waiting on an ultrasonic cleaner to arrive from amazon to clean the carbs. got some bits off of procycle for the bike too, bash plate, hand guards, engine guards and ricor intimidators.
I ordered the Moto gadget M unit as well and redoing the entire wire loom for it as the previous one is pretty manky.
Ultrasonic cleaners a bonus alright.
Here my Dr's bst in mine
Gives good results.
The intiminators are a great upgrade I have them in both dr bigs and the caponord, brill upgrade for damper rod fork.
I've not re-made a loom before, done everything else with them mind but that's gotta be a challenge.0 -
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Sidestand had a lot of play in it so decided to take a quick look.
Of course one of the bolts would snap when I went to loosen it :mad:
Drilled out the broken bolt and tapped the hole and inserted a Helicoil
All back together and no more excess play in stand.
Could only find a suitable bolt with a much bigger head
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I was thinking of something more elemental I don't think theres a guage on the one you linked and there is this too :
Do not use this pump in a standard BMW accessory outlet, unless it is wired directly to the battery and bypasses the motorcycle’s electrical computer system
I was thinking more of a hand pump you can throw in the box and forget about0 -
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flashinthepan wrote: »Was just looking at this one here
http://tiny.cc/pdy5tz
Daughter gave me one of these a few years ago. Great bit of kit. And since the air is a Euro in petrol stations now I use it on the cars as well. Always pack it in the top box if I’m leaving Dublin. 0 -
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