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Problem solving no hot water in dishwasher

  • 16-02-2021 8:58pm
    #1
    Jackhammer7
    Registered Users Posts: 17 ✭


    So I have a Beko DIN15R10 and no hot water running through the machine. I got myself a multimeter today, so I removed the Flow Through Heater and the Thermistor Temperature Sensor Ntc. Neither of which seem to be the problem.

    For the Flow through Heater, i was getting around 30ohm. For the NTC, i heated it up and the readout dropped to around 7 and once let to cool off, went back up to 50. Thats if I was actually using the multimeter correctly! I'm not much into my electrics so was getting a friend to help me out of texts! Could these still be the issue and I just didnt test them properly?

    So whats next to check the pcb?

    Thanks in advance everyone! Not sure where to go now.


Comments

  • #2
    Darc19
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,817 ✭✭✭Darc19


    Heating element?


  • #3
    Jackhammer7
    Registered Users Posts: 17 ✭Jackhammer7


    So is that not what the Flow Through Heater is? Excuse my ignorance!


  • #4
    effone
    Registered Users Posts: 18 ✭effone


    Hi

    I've the same issue. I've 28 ohms on my element and my thermostats are showing continuity. I saw online that that's how they should be. I'm also thinking the PCB is faulty. The local repair shop said the board needs to be configured plus it's about 200€ for the board alone. He advised binning the machine. It's only 5 years old.

    I'm going to research the board a bit but it may all be in vain.


  • #5
    The Red Ace
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,377 ✭✭✭The Red Ace


    Most likely the pcb , if you had then set the meter to 230 ac and connected the probes to the connector block to element and test for 230v see if you are getting supply, if no supply trace the leads back to pcb as there may be a break around the bottom of the door edge as the loom often gets hard and breaks from the continuous opening/closing.if you have continuity from pcb to element then there is only one conclusion, a faulty pcb. Check it for dry joints as these solder joints often break down from a continuous amperage draw by the element, you may be lucky to find a drop of solder may cure it, also do a visual on the capacitors on the board if any are bulged upwards then they are kaput.


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