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Oil boiler kicking in when timers off

  • 19-01-2021 2:32pm
    #1
    Dazzler13
    Registered Users Posts: 13 ✭


    Hi. I’ve a warm flow oil boiler. Runs 3 zones but water taken off it atm. Lately it’s started kicking in and running for a few minutes throughout the day and night. I’ve checked the motorised valves and all working fine. I changed room thermostat downstairs also. It works fine when turned on from the control panel. When control panel off and it kicks in by itself it doesn’t heat any of the rads so at least that’s ok. What would be next to check


Comments

  • #2
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    With the recent temperatures it likely just a frost stat kicking in to protect the boiler from damage. I wouldn't expect this to be happening today.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #3
    Dazzler13
    Registered Users Posts: 13 ✭Dazzler13


    Wearb wrote: »
    With the recent temperatures it likely just a frost stat kicking in to protect the boiler from damage. I wouldn't expect this to be happening today.

    Yeah it started a few weeks ago when temperatures were down but wasn’t too worried as I thought it was just the frost stat. But it never stopped


  • #4
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,302 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Dazzler13 wrote: »
    Yeah it started a few weeks ago when temperatures were down but wasn’t too worried as I thought it was just the frost stat. But it never stopped

    If its doing it today it needs further investigation.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #5
    Tom44
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 949 ✭✭✭Tom44


    Possible a,
    Fault motorized valve (if you have zoned system) internal micro switch sticking on, even if valve is off.


  • #6
    Dazzler13
    Registered Users Posts: 13 ✭Dazzler13


    Yep. It looks like the micro switch is stuck. Thanks. I’ve got a new one different model. Only thing is that in the new one the grey wire says normally connected to boiler and pump and orange wire normally to the 230v opposite from the old one. Does it make any difference


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  • #7
    youtheman
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,288 ✭✭✭youtheman


    All microswitches are wired in parallel such that any zone valve indicating open will start the boiler. So you just need to identify the pair of wires feeding the old microswitch and disconnect from your wiring centre and duplicate the wiring setup with the new valve.


  • #8
    Dazzler13
    Registered Users Posts: 13 ✭Dazzler13


    youtheman wrote: »
    All microswitches are wired in parallel such that any zone valve indicating open will start the boiler. So you just need to identify the pair of wires feeding the old microswitch and disconnect from your wiring centre and duplicate the wiring setup with the new valve.

    Thanks. I know it’s orange and grey on both valves it’s just that the new valve the colours are opposite to old one. So do I swap or just go with old colour wiring


  • #9
    youtheman
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,288 ✭✭✭youtheman


    It shouldn't make any difference. If you have 3 zone valves then all 3 orange should be connected to one terminal and all 3 grey to another terminal. But you can 'mix and match', e.g. orange/orange/grey on one terminal and then grey/grey/orange on the other. All 3 switches are wired in parallel for either option.


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