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DIY Built in wardrobes - Best fixings?

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  • 10-09-2020 1:40pm
    #1
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I am going to take on a built in wardrobe project shortly. First time doing this kind of thing, but handy enough with this kind of stuff.

    Just at planning stage now and wondering what the best type of fixings to use are? Will be using 18mm veneered panels for the carcass.

    What and how would be the best way to fix these together when building the carcassing? Dowels, screws, glue etc???

    Any advice would be appreciated!

    Thanks in advance!


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    #2
    the_pen_turner
    Registered Users Posts: 7,506 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    rob w wrote: »
    Hi,

    I am going to take on a built in wardrobe project shortly. First time doing this kind of thing, but handy enough with this kind of stuff.

    Just at planning stage now and wondering what the best type of fixings to use are? Will be using 18mm veneered panels for the carcass.

    What and how would be the best way to fix these together when building the carcassing? Dowels, screws, glue etc???

    Any advice would be appreciated!

    Thanks in advance!

    Glues and screws. Conformat screws if you feeling extra flash.


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    #3
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    the_pen_turner wrote: »
    Glues and screws. Conformat screws if you feeling extra flash.

    Thanks for that, haven't come across those screws before. They would be best for fixing top and bottom to the sides I guess? Just drilling a pilot hole first?

    Another question I should have popped in the first post is how do i hide fixings when I am joining two carcasses together side by side?

    Is it generally just careful planning to hide them behind shelves or hinges on the inside of the unit? Or is there some better way I'm not aware of?


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    #4
    the_pen_turner
    Registered Users Posts: 7,506 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    rob w wrote: »
    Thanks for that, haven't come across those screws before. They would be best for fixing top and bottom to the sides I guess? Just drilling a pilot hole first?

    Another question I should have popped in the first post is how do i hide fixings when I am joining two carcasses together side by side?

    Is it generally just careful planning to hide them behind shelves or hinges on the inside of the unit? Or is there some better way I'm not aware of?

    you need a special drill bit . normal screws will be fine.


    hiding screws can be tricky . stay well back and under shelves ect, behind hidges or hanging rail brackets. sometimes just good glue and clamps,


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    #5
    jimbev
    Registered Users Posts: 164 ✭✭jimbev


    These two pieces of equipment would serve you very well for your first carpentry job if you search for them you will get them cheaper


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    #6
    jmBuildExt
    Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭jmBuildExt


    Hide the screws for adjoining carcasses behind inset shelves etc if you can.
    If you can't, there are little white stickers that the naked eye is immune to :)
    Might see some if you look carefully inside your kitchen presses.


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    #7
    Páid
    Registered Users Posts: 916 ✭✭✭Páid


    @jimbev +1 for the pocket hole jig


    Kreg pocket hole jig - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ou9FlAnB5I

    I bought the cheaper Wolfcraft version and it's just as good.

    See here also (I've skipped to the pocket hole bit) - https://youtu.be/XumYNxQQxlo?t=279


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    #8
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 53,438 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    I was thinking of pocket holes too but I am not sure how useful they would be for holding two cabinet carcasses together. What you're essentially trying to do is join two sheets on the flat.


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    #9
    Páid
    Registered Users Posts: 916 ✭✭✭Páid


    Inter screws - https://www.screwfix.ie/c/screws-nails-fixings/inter-confirmat-screws/cat7280109


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    #10
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Thanks for all those replies, I actually picked up a dowelling jig set on a whim a little while back so might put it to use. I like the look of the confirmat screws too.

    Would gunoprene panel adhesive be good for sticking two panels together side by side? Have some left over from a skirting job recently!


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    #11
    Graham
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 17,642 Mod ✭✭✭✭Graham


    awec wrote: »
    I was thinking of pocket holes too but I am not sure how useful they would be for holding two cabinet carcasses together. What you're essentially trying to do is join two sheets on the flat.

    This morning, I asked our friend, (a wardrobe/kitchen fitter) how he does it.

    Clamp the robes together. Small block screwed into the top and on the underside of each carcasse, set back so they're hidden behind plinth/cornice.

    Screws behind each of the hinge plates.

    526103.jpg

    526104.jpg

    To add my own tip. If you're buying the doors, familiarise yourself with standard sizes before you make the wardrobes. Standard sizes will be quicker/cheaper.


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    #12
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Thanks for the advice folks. All set now, and had the panels delivered today so ready to get started.

    Might turn this into a DIY thread and post as I go along.

    So I am building wardrobes into the eaves under a supporting beam in the roof. I have had to modify a partition wall (with structural engineers approval) to suit the wardrobe sizes I wanted. So I have space for 2 x 800mm wide units on each end with a 1000mm wide space in the centre for dresser/TV unit. Available height is 1730mm. I am using an 18mm Cambrian Oak veneer chipboard panel.

    I have attached a picture of the current space as it is. My current dilemma is how to treat the border around and between the wardrobes once they are in place.

    I had originally thought I would panel them in the same material as the wardrobes themselves, making one continuous wall. If I do this I will bring the carcasses 18mm proud of the frame and panel around it so that it is flush once finished and maybe inset the doors to keep all flush.

    Other options would be to paint the border to match the room or alternatively wallpaper around them.

    Will carry on posting pics as I go, any advice appreciated - especially on the borders, if anyone has done similar would love to know. Thanks for reading!


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    #13
    jmBuildExt
    Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭jmBuildExt


    rob w wrote: »
    Thanks for the advice folks. All set now, and had the panels delivered today so ready to get started.

    Might turn this into a DIY thread and post as I go along.

    So I am building wardrobes into the eaves under a supporting beam in the roof. I have had to modify a partition wall (with structural engineers approval) to suit the wardrobe sizes I wanted. So I have space for 2 x 800mm wide units on each end with a 1000mm wide space in the centre for dresser/TV unit. Available height is 1730mm. I am using an 18mm Cambrian Oak veneer chipboard panel.

    I have attached a picture of the current space as it is. My current dilemma is how to treat the border around and between the wardrobes once they are in place.

    I had originally thought I would panel them in the same material as the wardrobes themselves, making one continuous wall. If I do this I will bring the carcasses 18mm proud of the frame and panel around it so that it is flush once finished and maybe inset the doors to keep all flush.

    Other options would be to paint the border to match the room or alternatively wallpaper around them.

    Will carry on posting pics as I go, any advice appreciated - especially on the borders, if anyone has done similar would love to know. Thanks for reading!

    Re your boarders - What you have there is not really the norm - I'm assuming you need the uprights because they are part of the partition.
    I think there are 2 approaches.
    1. Use the vertical partitions as part of the cabinet - i.e. your doors will be hinged off it. Then your door will "lip over" the uprights. You will have to do something to hide where the 2 uprights meet - maybe a strip of veneer over the whole area of the 2 uprights..

    2. Plaster the front and around the uprights - i.e. so the corners are clean and inset the cabinets into the spaces. So at the end it looks like your cabinets are inset into a series of alcoves.


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    #14
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,017 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    jmBuildExt wrote: »
    2. Plaster the front and around the uprights - i.e. so the corners are clean and inset the cabinets into the spaces. So at the end it looks like your cabinets are inset into a series of alcoves.

    I think this could look fantastic. Would you also plaster the plinths and a strip at the top?


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    #15
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Thanks for the reply jmBuildExt!
    jmBuildExt wrote: »
    Re your boarders - What you have there is not really the norm - I'm assuming you need the uprights because they are part of the partition.

    Yes, they are in place to support the purlin on the roof above. So I cant do without them unfortunately.
    jmBuildExt wrote: »
    I think there are 2 approaches.
    1. Use the vertical partitions as part of the cabinet - i.e. your doors will be hinged off it. Then your door will "lip over" the uprights. You will have to do something to hide where the 2 uprights meet - maybe a strip of veneer over the whole area of the 2 uprights..

    How would you suggest hiding the face of the upright to which the hinge is fixed on the inside in this case? I was going to put a gable against the inside of the upright and hinge off that.
    jmBuildExt wrote: »
    2. Plaster the front and around the uprights - i.e. so the corners are clean and inset the cabinets into the spaces. So at the end it looks like your cabinets are inset into a series of alcoves.

    It is a great idea - I'm a bit annoyed at myself as I left this wall out when having the rest of the room plastered and now the carpet is down!!:(
    I suppose I could do it very carefully though.


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    #16
    jmBuildExt
    Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭jmBuildExt


    rob w wrote: »

    How would you suggest hiding the face of the upright to which the hinge is fixed on the inside in this case? I was going to put a gable against the inside of the upright and hinge off that.

    If you hinge off the upright - you could use a strip of veneer to hide it.
    Going on the assumption that your uprights may not be 100% straight/plumb - You can do what you said there too. Build your cabinet inside the upright making sure it is 18mm proud of the upright - and hinge off the cabinet as normal. Then hide the uprights with a filler piece.
    Now I think of it more - this is actually what i would do :)

    Edit -Another advantage .... if it is slightly proud of the rest of the wall/uprights, you won't be able to see the detail of where the plasterboard at the top meets the cabinet. Also you will be able to hide the bottom timber of the partition.


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    #17
    jmBuildExt
    Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭jmBuildExt


    Lumen wrote: »
    I think this could look fantastic. Would you also plaster the plinths and a strip at the top?

    Eh i hadn't really thought about in that much detail :) I forgot about the bottom of the partition - but yeah the top he could just create a clean corner to go back into. Could do the same on the bottom in theory but you would have a little step in front of the cabinets - some people might feel the need to stand on it :)


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    #18
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    I now have four of the wardrobes in place, got the job started over the weekend. Worked out quite well, but have just noticed an issue with level on the last cabinet I put in. Noticed it once I started to measure up for doors.

    There is a good bit of a fall on the top from right to left - about 7/8mm.. Sides are plumb but it seems to be shifted out of square somehow. Probably too much to hide with doors or hinge adjustment?

    Going to have to pull it out and make some adjustments!

    I think I have decided to use the same panelling vertically along the uprights between cabinets and in a 100mm wide border around sides and top. I will paint the rest of the wall around it then to match in with the room afterwards.


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    #19
    jmBuildExt
    Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭jmBuildExt


    Looks great!


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    #20
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,017 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    You should be able to get it square to within 1mm or so using shims.

    Don't try and fix this using door or hinge adjustment, it'll break your heart!


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    #21
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Lumen wrote: »
    You should be able to get it square to within 1mm or so using shims.

    Don't try and fix this using door or hinge adjustment, it'll break your heart!

    Thanks for that, yeah I didn't think it would be a good idea to go down that route. Will try make the necessary adjustments over the coming days and get it sorted.


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    #22
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    I have the levelling sorted now and ready to get some doors ordered! :)

    Planning on buying inset doors. Anyone have advice on how to measure for them?
    Openings are 764mm (w) x 1760mm (h) - the door will be slightly smaller obviously but I'm not sure how much to take off those measurements for clearances?

    Also, any recommendations for a soft close inset hinge would be appreciated too? Are Hafele the best bet?


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    #23
    Graham
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 17,642 Mod ✭✭✭✭Graham


    Hafele, hettich, blum, all good hinges.

    Watch your hinge positions with those slide outs :)


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    #24
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Graham wrote: »
    Hafele, hettich, blum, all good hinges.

    Watch your hinge positions with those slide outs :)

    Thanks for that, yeah was going to put the bottom hinge in the gap between the bottom two slide outs.

    But I've just found another possible problem with them. Not sure inset doors will fit here without obstructing the slide out baskets..... The catch for the soft close only leaves gap of about 13mm from inside of carcass. (See attached pic)

    Are there inset hinges than can open the door out to overlay the front edge of the carcass e.g. Leaving the full unobstructed width of the inner so that the basket can slide out? Or have I snookered myself and will have to go for overlayed doors?


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    #25
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Graham wrote: »
    Hafele, hettich, blum, all good hinges.

    Watch your hinge positions with those slide outs :)

    Thanks for that, yeah was going to put the bottom hinge in the gap between the bottom two slide outs.

    But I've just found another possible problem with them. Not sure inset doors will fit here without obstructing the slide out baskets..... The catch for the soft close only leaves gap of about 13mm from inside of carcass. (See attached pic)

    Are there inset hinges than can open the door out to overlay the front edge of the carcass e.g. Leaving the full unobstructed width of the inner so that the basket can slide out? Or have I snookered myself and will have to go for overlayed doors?


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    #26
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    rob w wrote: »
    Thanks for that, yeah was going to put the bottom hinge in the gap between the bottom two slide outs.

    But I've just found another possible problem with them. Not sure inset doors will fit here without obstructing the slide out baskets..... The catch for the soft close only leaves gap of about 13mm from inside of carcass. (See attached pic)

    Are there inset hinges than can open the door out to overlay the front edge of the carcass e.g. Leaving the full unobstructed width of the inner so that the basket can slide out? Or have I snookered myself and will have to go for overlayed doors?

    I've found these hinges that are worrying me, the 25mm space needed for the door would stop my basket sliding out I think! If there is an alternative inset hinge that opens differently that would be great!


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    #27
    Graham
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 17,642 Mod ✭✭✭✭Graham


    Blum make zero protrusion hinges, take a look to see if they'll work for you. IIRC they have a 0mm mounting plate option too.

    You'll have the same issue with lay-on doors if there's no spacer between your gable and runners.


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    #28
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Getting there, almost done now! Been a slow job as lots of other stuff going on at the minute. But at least they are functional for now!

    Just have to stick the last panel on the left hand side border (waiting for glue to set on the other side before I take the clamps off), then a couple of small filler pieces at the base to stick in.

    Doors to be ordered this week and will make up a few drawers for the dresser unit whenever I get a chance.


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