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Installing a floor hatch

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  • 16-11-2018 12:16am
    #1
    v638sg7k1a92bx
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭


    Does anyone have any suggestions on where a can find a hatch door that I can put in the floor? I'd like to put in something like this https://goo.gl/images/g36T4e

    I found this this but not sure if this would suitable for the floor?


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    #2
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Why would you want to find one? If you have a floor and need a hatch then you normally make the hatch out of the floor material you remove to make the hole.


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    #3
    Shaunoc
    Registered Users Posts: 521 ✭✭✭Shaunoc


    whats the floor hatch hiding??


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    #4
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Maybe its a dungeon that he needs to sound proof?


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    #5
    fiacha
    Registered Users Posts: 782 ✭✭✭fiacha


    my3cents wrote: »
    Why would you want to find one? If you have a floor and need a hatch then you normally make the hatch out of the floor material you remove to make the hole.

    Agreed.

    I'd be inclined to get a qualified carpenter / fitter in to do it. You want to make sure that it'll fit flush to the existing floor and that it will be stable / secure when walked on. Depending on what is removed to fit the hatch, you may have to re-enforce the surrounding structure.


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    #6
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,016 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I was wondering about this recently, as when I was redoing my upstairs floors I found a "secret room" about 0.7m x 4m on the ground floor between four load bearing walls. I reckon the architect just couldn't be bothered to work out what to do with the space, but I reckon I could put a hatch in it and use it for something.

    So I was wondering whether there are any regs about how to make such a hatch safe, or whether it's even possible to make it safe, i.e. to stop someone falling straight through it after slipping.


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    #7
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Lumen wrote: »
    I was wondering about this recently, as when I was redoing my upstairs floors I found a "secret room" about 0.7m x 4m on the ground floor between four load bearing walls. I reckon the architect just couldn't be bothered to work out what to do with the space, but I reckon I could put a hatch in it and use it for something.

    So I was wondering whether there are any regs about how to make such a hatch safe, or whether it's even possible to make it safe, i.e. to stop someone falling straight through it after slipping.

    For safety you could have a pressure switch in the hatch frame so that when it was open the light in the "dungeon" came on, that way open hatch is going to be more obvious.

    Then you are going to have to make sure there is enough ventilation if someone got accidentally shut in there.

    Maybe call it a Priest Hole?


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    #8
    v638sg7k1a92bx
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    my3cents wrote: »
    Why would you want to find one? If you have a floor and need a hatch then you normally make the hatch out of the floor material you remove to make the hole.

    That's probably too technical for my skill level.


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    #9
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Clara Substantial Oasis wrote: »
    That's probably too technical for my skill level.

    Its a job any competent DIYer could handle.

    What is the floor made of?

    Is this for regular access or just occasional inspection?

    Can you see from the floorboard nails (if you have floorboards) where the joists are. If so would the width be wide enough for access or will you need to cut through a joist and reinforce that area of the floor?

    The problem with a ready made hatch is that it will likely be for a ceiling or wall so not be designed to take the weigh of someone walking over it when its closed.

    Essentially all you need is a reinforced framework around the edge of the hole with a lip so whatever the hatch is made of doesn't fall through.


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    #10
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,016 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I guess there's two options:

    1. Make the hole between joists, and then reinforce the sides of the hole. Would give you maximum ~380mm in shortest dimension.
    2. Cut the joists and then reinforce the cut ends.

    If you're doing (2) then you could cut them diagonally and hinge them at one end, so that the joists will still take some vertical load when the hatch is closed.


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    #11
    Dr_Colossus
    Registered Users Posts: 3,122 ✭✭✭Dr_Colossus


    Lumen wrote: »
    I was wondering about this recently, as when I was redoing my upstairs floors I found a "secret room" about 0.7m x 4m on the ground floor between four load bearing walls. I reckon the architect just couldn't be bothered to work out what to do with the space, but I reckon I could put a hatch in it and use it for something.
    .

    That's mad, difficult to visualise why you'd need two load bearing walls running parallel 0.7m apart. That's a lot of space to go unused so if breaking an access door from the ground floor is not an option the access hatch sounds cool.


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    #12
    v638sg7k1a92bx
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    my3cents wrote: »
    Its a job any competent DIYer could handle.

    What is the floor made of?

    Is this for regular access or just occasional inspection?

    Can you see from the floorboard nails (if you have floorboards) where the joists are. If so would the width be wide enough for access or will you need to cut through a joist and reinforce that area of the floor?

    The problem with a ready made hatch is that it will likely be for a ceiling or wall so not be designed to take the weigh of someone walking over it when its closed.

    Essentially all you need is a reinforced framework around the edge of the hole with a lip so whatever the hatch is made of doesn't fall through.

    Would only be for occasional inspection and I would need to cut through the joists.


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    #13
    daheff
    Registered Users Posts: 5,839 ✭✭✭daheff


    Shaunoc wrote: »
    whats the floor hatch hiding??

    a safe?


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    #14
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Clara Substantial Oasis wrote: »
    Would only be for occasional inspection and I would need to cut through the joists.

    If its just for inspection then in most cases you can squeeze between the joists unless you are rather large or the joists are very close together?

    For inspection a good multi-tool (amazon example of what I use there are plenty of others) will cut the floorboards so they can be nailed/screwed to battens and dropped back in place you you hardly know the hatch is there.


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    #15
    meercat
    Registered Users Posts: 4,729 ✭✭✭meercat


    Electric floor box.
    You can get them in your electrical wholesalers.
    Can be covered with carpet or wooden flooring


    https://www.huntoffice.ie/3-compartment-screed-floor-box-303mm-x-221mm-cmwsfb3.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAlb_fBRBHEiwAzMeEduVNbOrS7tsCt4ejpLT6lKBxoaiRuN-HnZzKo7V4kVCqcN0mM3YIARoCSM0QAvD_BwE


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    #16
    looksee
    Registered Users Posts: 28,118 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    OP, your skills are not up to making a hatch but you feel confident to cut through joists? I'd be a bit concerned about that.


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    #17
    v638sg7k1a92bx
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    looksee wrote: »
    OP, your skills are not up to making a hatch but you feel confident to cut through joists? I'd be a bit concerned about that.

    Thank you. A very useful contribution.


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    #18
    v638sg7k1a92bx
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    my3cents wrote: »
    If its just for inspection then in most cases you can squeeze between the joists unless you are rather large or the joists are very close together?

    For inspection a good multi-tool (amazon example of what I use there are plenty of others) will cut the floorboards so they can be nailed/screwed to battens and dropped back in place you you hardly know the hatch is there.

    Why would you use the multi tool out if interest, could you not just run a jig saw along the tongue and groove? Is the multi tool not for doing detailing etc? Maybe I'm understanding this wrong but what blade do you use on the multi tool for the floor boards?


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    #19
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Clara Substantial Oasis wrote: »
    Why would you use the multi tool out if interest, could you not just run a jig saw along the tongue and groove? Is the multi tool not for doing detailing etc? Maybe I'm understanding this wrong but what blade do you use on the multi tool for the floor boards?

    A cut from a multi-tool saw blade is so much finer than any jigsaw so if you are reusing the boards you take up there's less gap to see. Then there is the control you have with a multi-tool. It starts a cut safely without bumping all over (no need to drill holes if you don't plunge cut) and you can cutout over a joist if necessary as a multi-tool allows you to cut up to other material. Also less chance of snagging a hidden power cable or heating pipe.

    I'd use either the striaght wood blade for everything or the round wood blade for the main run and he straight for doing nice tidy corners.

    Only last week I cut out a 4x3 foot hole in one of our sheds the exact size required to put in a second hand double glazed window.

    Edit> I'd consider cutting the boards just over the top of a joist by say 1/4 to 1/2 inch (easy with a multi-tool with a depth gauge) so you only need a 1/2 inch strip screwed to the hole side of the joist to support the hatch.


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    #20
    v638sg7k1a92bx
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    my3cents wrote: »
    A cut from a multi-tool saw blade is so much finer than any jigsaw so if you are reusing the boards you take up there's less gap to see. Then there is the control you have with a multi-tool. It starts a cut safely without bumping all over (no need to drill holes if you don't plunge cut) and you can cutout over a joist if necessary as a multi-tool allows you to cut up to other material. Also less chance of snagging a hidden power cable or heating pipe.

    I'd use either the striaght wood blade for everything or the round wood blade for the main run and he straight for doing nice tidy corners.

    Only last week I cut out a 4x3 foot hole in one of our sheds the exact size required to put in a second hand double glazed window.

    Edit> I'd consider cutting the boards just over the top of a joist by say 1/4 to 1/2 inch (easy with a multi-tool with a depth gauge) so you only need a 1/2 inch strip screwed to the hole side of the joist to support the hatch.

    I have the Bosch mpg 190 and I don't think the round wood blade would be capable of cutting the main run like you suggested. I've only found it useful for mdf or plywood, I didn't think it would have power to cut through the floorboards.


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    #21
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Clara Substantial Oasis wrote: »
    I have the Bosch mpg 190 and I don't think the round wood blade would be capable of cutting the main run like you suggested. I've only found it useful for mdf or plywood, I didn't think it would have power to cut through the floorboards.

    I have to admit the one I have is a new toy for me. I had a Lidl Parkside one that was good enough for small jobs like cutting out a bit of skirting board and decided to treat myself as I had a few windows to put into sheds. Its wasn't as fast with the DeWalt multi-tool over a jigsaw but in that particular case I framed the windows on the inside of the shed so I could cut the hole out at the last minute and just drop the new window in, and a jigsaw blade wouldn't reach around the framing. The other advantage I didn't really mention is the corners, a multi-tool does them with no over cutting and damage to the floorboards at the edge of the cuts.

    I found the straight blades faster cut better but you can mark out a good straight starter cut with the round edged cutter.

    I've just looked up your Bosh (PMF19?) and its similar spec to my old Parkside one, 130W, the Dewalt is 300W which probably accounts for its ability to do the job. A tool I will rarely use but a great get out of jail free card that can do a tidy, tight, accurate job compared to some traditional methods.


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    #22
    v638sg7k1a92bx
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    my3cents wrote: »
    I have to admit the one I have is a new toy for me. I had a Lidl Parkside one that was good enough for small jobs like cutting out a bit of skirting board and decided to treat myself as I had a few windows to put into sheds. Its wasn't as fast with the DeWalt multi-tool over a jigsaw but in that particular case I framed the windows on the inside of the shed so I could cut the hole out at the last minute and just drop the new window in, and a jigsaw blade wouldn't reach around the framing. The other advantage I didn't really mention is the corners, a multi-tool does them with no over cutting and damage to the floorboards at the edge of the cuts.

    I found the straight blades faster cut better but you can mark out a good straight starter cut with the round edged cutter.

    I've just looked up your Bosh (PMF19?) and its similar spec to my old Parkside one, 130W, the Dewalt is 300W which probably accounts for its ability to do the job. A tool I will rarely use but a great get out of jail free card that can do a tidy, tight, accurate job compared to some traditional methods.

    Sorry it's the PMF 190 that I have. 190W.


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