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Massey Ferguson 35 brakes

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  • 10-12-2018 10:11pm
    #1
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭


    Working on my 35 at the momwnt and having a problem with the breaks. Im trying to remove the hubs but there are no screws on the left side. The breaks work butnstay jammed on. Ive no idea how the hub was fixed.on with no screws. Any suggestions? Ive attached photos of both hubs. The one with and the one without screws


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    #2
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 5,959 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Yab da do wrote: »
    Working on my 35 at the momwnt and having a problem with the breaks. Im trying to remove the hubs but there are no screws on the left side. The breaks work butnstay jammed on. Ive no idea how the hub was fixed.on with no screws. Any suggestions? Ive attached photos of both hubs. The one with and the one without screws


    There is nothing but friction and rust holding it on. Loosen off brake shoes and tap hub off with a hammer.

    Hub was held on with no screws by the wheel nuts.


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    #3
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    emaherx wrote: »
    There is nothing but friction and rust holding it on. Loosen off brake shoes and tap hub off with a hammer.

    Hub was held on with no screws by the wheel nuts.

    Is that normal? Ill go and have a go?


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    #4
    aaakev
    Registered Users Posts: 3,088 ✭✭✭aaakev


    Yab da do wrote: »
    Is that normal? Ill go and have a go?

    Yes thats normal, the wheel nuts hold the wheel and hub in place


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    #5
    stock>
    Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    Usually the hub rusts to the half axle, careful hitting the brake drum as they can crack. Hit the drum between the studs with a hammer and drift, working your way around every stud. Be patient with them. Make sure that you check for wear on the brake actuator / shaft on the side where it enters the trumpet at the diff side ...........................Put some copper grease on the contact faces between the drum and the halfshaft to prevent a repeat....................
    You will find that the return springs are shot...............................


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    #6
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 5,959 ✭✭✭emaherx


    stock> wrote: »
    Usually the hub rusts to the half axle, careful hitting the brake drum as they can crack. Hit the drum between the studs with a hammer and drift, working your way around every stud. Be patient with them. Make sure that you check for wear on the brake actuator / shaft on the side where it enters the trumpet at the diff side ...........................Put some copper grease on the contact faces between the drum and the halfshaft to prevent a repeat....................
    You will find that the return springs are shot...............................

    Good advice there but replacement drum is about 40 quid, if it won't budge I wouldn't be too afraid of hitting it. I've removed plenty of these and haven't split any yet.

    And yes hitting with a hammer around the studs should shock it loose.


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    #7
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    emaherx wrote: »
    Good advice there but replacement drum is about 40 quid, if it won't budge I wouldn't be too afraid of hitting it. I've removed plenty of these and haven't split any yet.

    And yes hitting with a hammer around the studs should shock it loose.

    Had no luck removing the drum. I noticed chips broken off the edged here and there from previous owners last attempt to remove the drum. I've soaked the hub in old waste oil. Worked my way around the outer edge with a hammer. Tried wedging a wide punch between barrel and hub and levering it off with no joy. I added extra oil and will let soak over night. I bought replacement springs and barrel screws today as i think these are the problems. Barrel spins relatively good in forward direction . No so good in reverse.



    UPDATE: After watching this video I got an idea.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpRWVvXuqU8
    Im an idiot, i just noticed something. I think i need to release the shoes with a flat head screw drive with the adjuster..... They maybe turned up and gripping the hub from the inside edge.... try that when i get home. I have to work out which is the correct direction now.


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    #8
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    When i do get the hub off I found a good video detailing how to change in the inner parts:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpRWVvXuqU8

    Also I think I may need to heat the hub to shock it of?


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    #9
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 5,959 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Yab da do wrote: »
    UPDATE: After watching this video I got an idea.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpRWVvXuqU8
    Im an idiot, i just noticed something. I think i need to release the shoes with a flat head screw drive with the adjuster..... They maybe turned up and gripping the hub from the inside edge.... try that when i get home. I have to work out which is the correct direction now.


    *[Cough]*……..........
    Told you that in post 2 :D


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    #10
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    I saw that "Loosen off brake shoes " comment but though it was referring to the breaks stuck on , so I pulled up on the foot pedal. I didn't know that the adjusted would lock on the breaks . I knew it helped align the breaks if it was pulling left or right, now I know how it does it ;)...
    every days a school day


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    #11
    Testacalda
    Registered Users Posts: 463 ✭✭Testacalda


    is there not two threaded holes in the drum that you can put bolts into to effectively press the drum off as the bolt winds in.

    I think a bolt from the steering box housing is the correct thread as far as I remember


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    #12
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 5,959 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Yab da do wrote: »
    I saw that "Loosen off brake shoes " comment but though it was referring to the breaks stuck on , so I pulled up on the foot pedal. I didn't know that the adjusted would lock on the breaks . I knew it helped align the breaks if it was pulling left or right, now I know how it does it ;)...
    every days a school day

    24933683081_53783be392_c.jpg2016-02-14 16.52.52 by Emaherx, on Flickr

    Here is what it looks like with drum removed.
    There are no threaded bolt holes that I know of in the drum to press it off. ( Unless 35 is different from a 135 or 205 )

    The most overlooked thing on these brakes is the actuator shaft, it is on the left behind the plate joining the 2 shoes, if there is any play on it it will only push one shoe when it rotates and the brakes will be next to useless.


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    #13
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    emaherx wrote: »
    24933683081_53783be392_c.jpg2016-02-14 16.52.52 by Emaherx, on Flickr

    Here is what it looks like with drum removed.
    There are no threaded bolt holes that I know of in the drum to press it off. ( Unless 35 is different from a 135 or 205 )

    The most overlooked thing on these brakes is the actuator shaft, it is on the left behind the plate joining the 2 shoes, if there is any play on it it will only push one shoe when it rotates and the brakes will be next to useless.




    I got off the hub. Took wd40, blow torch and a few blows from a hammer. Attached are photos from inside. Every thing looks ok to me. Will i just replace the springs?


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    #14
    stock>
    Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    Replace the springs and check the linkages to make sure they are free. It is also possible to add additional springs to the linkages to assist in the releasing of the brakes........................


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    #15
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    Replaced the springs.20181213_213451.jpg
    The left side break is still not returning. Is there another sprinf behund the shoes?


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    #16
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    Spring behind the shoes


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    #17
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    Attachment not found. do I need to look at the spring numbered 2 in this diagram?


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    #18
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 5,959 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Yab da do wrote: »
    Attachment not found. do I need to look at the spring numbered 2 in this diagram?

    Yes and no. That spring only holds the inspection cover in place. Pull back the cover and make sure the hole the shaft is going through has not gone oval.

    You can add an external spring between axle and linkages. Your biggest issue is probably stiffness in pedals/linkages.

    Looking at your pads probably only reason your brakes have not been working is they weren't adjusted correctly and stiffness in pedals/linkages.


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    #19
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    I think I, ve found the root of the problem. the left break pedal is rubbing of the metal plate to the left of it. there is a shine on the plate where it is worn from rubbing. I've applied some grease and it has improved the issue. I wonder why it is rubbing like that? I grease the connects along the linkage also.


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    #20
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 5,959 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Yab da do wrote: »
    I wonder why it is rubbing like that?

    Wear and tear over the past 50 years?

    Can you disassemble pedals and add a shim at the back?


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    #21
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    emaherx wrote: »
    Wear and tear over the past 50 years?

    Can you disassemble pedals and add a shim at the back?

    The grease has made a big improvement. I also adjusted the breaks to open position and then worked them back on until the give adequate braking. I think they where also set on to strong. thus has made a great improvement. between this and new rear tyres it like having a new yoke. thanks all.


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    #22
    stock>
    Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    Your welcome.................


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    #23
    muddle84
    Registered Users Posts: 1,678 ✭✭✭muddle84


    Good work! Im sorry to point it out but its BRAKES not breaks.


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    #24
    Yab da do
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Yab da do


    muddle84 wrote: »
    Good work! Im sorry to point it out but its BRAKES not breaks.

    tanks.... oh I mean thanks.


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