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Building a DR650se

2

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Had a mate weld me up an adapter for a GSXR exhaust over the weekend,
    Really need to learn to weld, and also have a place to do the welding.

    New exhaust is nearly a 5th the weight of the old one,
    So now have a titanium GSXR exhaust and a stainless steel midpipe,

    new exhaust.jpeg

    old exhaust.jpeg

    adapter.jpeg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,815 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    goblin59 wrote: »
    Had a mate weld me up an adapter for a GSXR exhaust over the weekend,
    Really need to learn to weld, and also have a place to do the welding.

    New exhaust is nearly a 5th the weight of the old one,
    So now have a titanium GSXR exhaust and a stainless steel midpipe,

    new exhaust.jpeg

    old exhaust.jpeg

    adapter.jpeg
    Good choice for a zorst on these as you know. Have it on both the bigs now, well a busa and a 40F0 gixer k1 one.
    It's worthwhile extending the pipe past the flange mount about 10mm to stop the cannister gasket from being blasted by the exhaust pulses. Means it lasts and won't leak as quick.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Good choice for a zorst on these as you know. Have it on both the bigs now, well a busa and a 40F0 gixer k1 one.
    It's worthwhile extending the pipe past the flange mount about 10mm to stop the cannister gasket from being blasted by the exhaust pulses. Means it lasts and won't leak as quick.

    Next time ill get him to do that! I get what you mean,
    Problem is currently solved by not having the Cannister Gasket on there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,815 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    goblin59 wrote: »
    Next time ill get him to do that! I get what you mean,
    Problem is currently solved by not having the Cannister Gasket on there.
    Lol at solved
    If you use exhaust paste on your flange it should seal up but will be a mare to separate when set. Otherwise without the gasket it's liable blow and any blow on a big single=obnoxious banging on the over run no matter how much you play with the idle jets and or air screws.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Lol at solved
    If you use exhaust paste on your flange it should seal up but will be a mare to separate when set. Otherwise without the gasket it's liable blow and any blow on a big single=obnoxious banging on the over run no matter how much you play with the idle jets and or air screws.

    I'll pop it off at some point then and try to fit a gasket in,
    Dad has the procycle set up on his DR so I'll see how they get around it. I have Gasket paper here to that will make it easier


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    goblin59 wrote: »
    Had a mate weld me up an adapter for a GSXR exhaust over the weekend,
    Really need to learn to weld, and also have a place to do the welding.

    New exhaust is nearly a 5th the weight of the old one,
    So now have a titanium GSXR exhaust and a stainless steel midpipe,

    new exhaust.jpeg

    old exhaust.jpeg

    adapter.jpeg
    Coming on leaps and bounds :-) well done


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Coming on leaps and bounds :-) well done

    cheers!
    Post came earlier, so now I have front brakes too!

    Will take the bike up the field tomorrow!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    goblin59 wrote: »
    cheers!
    Post came earlier, so now I have front brakes too!
    That is something I need to sort on the V when I took the wheel off to get a new tyre a couple of weeks ago I noticed a rubber ring / seal coming off piston on the rear brake
    I reckon it is a dust seal of some sort
    Will have to get round to doing it when this muck weather clears off


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    That is something I need to sort on the V when I took the wheel off to get a new tyre a couple of weeks ago I noticed a rubber ring / seal coming off piston on the rear brake
    I reckon it is a dust seal of some sort
    Will have to get round to doing it when this muck weather clears off

    once you have the new stuff it wasn't actually too bad to do.
    Its a little messy in terms of dot4 going everywhere.
    I think the front on the BMW might need it done too.

    I've replaced the fluid with synthetic and have a speed bleeder, so shouldn't have to touch my brake hydraulics for a long time hopefully.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    goblin59 wrote: »
    once you have the new stuff it wasn't actually too bad to do.
    Its a little messy in terms of dot4 going everywhere.
    I think the front on the BMW might need it done too.

    I've replaced the fluid with synthetic and have a speed bleeder, so shouldn't have to touch my brake hydraulics for a long time hopefully.

    I had flushed the rear when I got the bike as the brake may as well not have been there at all
    But If I was honest the disc could prob do with being replaced also as it is badly scored and the pin that the pad slides on has a wear groove from lack of any grease / lubricant

    I did see a thread where the Disc and caliper were swapped out for one from the V1000 and a new custom brake hose

    Or I could maybe pick up a new disc and braided line with new pads would prob be a cheaper option


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    I had flushed the rear when I got the bike as the brake may as well not have been there at all
    But If I was honest the disc could prob do with being replaced also as it is badly scored and the pin that the pad slides on has a wear groove from lack of any grease / lubricant

    I did see a thread where the Disc and caliper were swapped out for one from the V1000 and a new custom brake hose

    Or I could maybe pick up a new disc and braided line with new pads would prob be a cheaper option

    The rear brake on the GS is pretty ****e, it will slow the bike down, but I wouldn't rely on it.
    The front brake works well enough though.

    Should see the CCM R30, brake is over engineered on the front, it uses 4 pistons on a 644cc Freewind engine


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    goblin59 wrote: »
    Had a mate weld me up an adapter for a GSXR exhaust over the weekend,
    Really need to learn to weld, and also have a place to do the welding.

    New exhaust is nearly a 5th the weight of the old one,
    So now have a titanium GSXR exhaust and a stainless steel midpipe,

    new exhaust.jpeg

    old exhaust.jpeg

    adapter.jpeg

    That old exhaust looks in great nik
    Cheapskate that I am I would have waited till it rusted its way off :-)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    That old exhaust looks in great nik
    Cheapskate that I am I would have waited till it rusted its way off :-)


    That's the original exhaust off the 2014 DR (about 10km on that bike)
    The original from this bike is a lot worse off.
    The GXSR exhaust was in a box of spares, dad got 3 of them off an auction and put one on the 2014 DR.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Going to be upgrading the fuel tank during the weekend, current one is a pain in the arse as its a 13 litre tank, and to fill it up, I've to get the keys off one of the other bikes to open it as we don't know where the original filler cap went.

    Have a 30 litre Safari tank in the parts box for the bike though, so I've agreed with Dad that I'll use that and then depending on who's doing what we'll swap it over to the other bikes when he needs it back and I'll take what ever tank was on that bike.
    Parts box is now much emptier than it was this time last year


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    A 30 L tank will a good bit of weight
    But you will be able to go for ever & ever without stopping :-)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    A 30 L tank will a good bit of weight
    But you will be able to go for ever & ever without stopping :-)

    brings the bike up to 700km range, according to the forums. Dads Aussie bike came with it, but he put a 20 litre acerbis on it instead which is why it was in storage.

    It will increase the weight, but when empty, the 30 litre and original metal tank are about the same weight.
    I'd probally get a 20 litre if I see one for sale second hand and then keep the 30 litre for if I do trips across Europe / Morocco on the bike


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    goblin59 wrote: »
    brings the bike up to 700km range, according to the forums. Dads Aussie bike came with it, but he put a 20 litre acerbis on it instead which is why it was in storage.

    It will increase the weight, but when empty, the 30 litre and original metal tank are about the same weight.
    I'd probally get a 20 litre if I see one for sale second hand and then keep the 30 litre for if I do trips across Europe / Morocco on the bike
    Yeah a 30L tank will give great range for trekking
    The V has a 21L tank and I get about 370km but you can feel the weight increase when you fill it up
    I would say you will have great fun on it when it is all done and dusted :-)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Yeah a 30L tank will give great range for trekking
    The V has a 21L tank and I get about 370km but you can feel the weight increase when you fill it up
    I would say you will have great fun on it when it is all done and dusted :-)

    yeah the BMW has a 16L tank, but its under the seat, so you don't notice the upper weight.
    If i don't get on with the 30 litre, I'll look for a replacement cap to use with the other tank.

    Would definitely be good for trekking though! I've tickets for Wacken Open Air this summer, so will try and do the TET roads up to Hamburg, not sure if im taking the GS or DR, depends on if Im taking my friend pillion or not. The GS is just a better machine for Pillion


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    So put the other tank on today,
    The other tank definitely looked more dynamic, but no where near the same range!

    Plus this has a built in fuel gauge,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Be careful with those old tanks, I had an old Acerbis tank that had gone brittle and when I knocked it the shed it shattered.
    It was painted so that might have done something to it?
    It had an asymmetric filler cap and two fuel taps.
    You don't want a tank that is brittle, It would be a disaster.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Be careful with those old tanks, I had an old Acerbis tank that had gone brittle and when I knocked it the shed it shattered.
    It was painted so that might have done something to it?
    It had an asymmetric filler cap and two fuel taps.
    You don't want a tank that is brittle, It would be a disaster.

    I've read before that its painting them that make them brittle.
    Unfortunately on this tank, the fuel taps had the seals deteriorate so I'm looking for either Vitol, or something similar to replace the seals with.
    I've drained the tank for now, as a procycle order arrives on Monday and I want to look at relocating the choke, I had a choke knob direct on the carb, but I actually can't get at it now with this tank xD
    It was already a pain in the arse with the original tank tbh.

    I'll be fitting the hand guards, bash plate and ricor intimidators next week


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,815 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    goblin59 wrote: »
    I want to look at relocating the choke, I had a choke knob direct on the carb, but I actually can't get at it now with this tank xD
    It was already a pain in the arse with the original tank tbh.

    I'll be fitting the hand guards, bash plate and ricor intimidators next week
    Later gen dr800's replaced the choke on carb body to cable operated choke plunger on bars, should fit with all bst series mikunis (which I assume you have on er)
    cablestarter-medium5840031-D10-01-c4c1.jpg
    https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr800su-1996-t-germany-e22_model13287/cablestarter_5840031d10/#.YAxtW2mnyyM
    What weight and brand oil ye using with the intiminators?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    goblin59 wrote: »
    I've read before that its painting them that make them brittle.
    Unfortunately on this tank, the fuel taps had the seals deteriorate so I'm looking for either Vitol, or something similar to replace the seals with.
    I've drained the tank for now, as a procycle order arrives on Monday and I want to look at relocating the choke, I had a choke knob direct on the carb, but I actually can't get at it now with this tank xD
    It was already a pain in the arse with the original tank tbh.

    I'll be fitting the hand guards, bash plate and ricor intimidators next week

    Viton O-rings are green so should be easy to identify.
    What kind of taps are they? Safari branded ones or similar?
    E10 damages rubber badly over time.
    Its a curse on old bikes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Viton O-rings are green so should be easy to identify.
    What kind of taps are they? Safari branded ones or similar?
    E10 damages rubber badly over time.
    Its a curse on old bikes.

    Its some random brand Dad had to put in as the Safari ones leaked when he was riding through france a few years ago with the tank.
    He thinks the originals are around somewhere.
    I was looking at printing something in PETG as its chemical resistance, hopefully can get Viton O rings handy up in Fermanagh


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Later gen dr800's replaced the choke on carb body to cable operated choke plunger on bars, should fit with all bst series mikunis (which I assume you have on er)
    cablestarter-medium5840031-D10-01-c4c1.jpg
    https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr800su-1996-t-germany-e22_model13287/cablestarter_5840031d10/#.YAxtW2mnyyM
    What weight and brand oil ye using with the intiminators?

    Cheers! thats the style I was looking for, just have it it tied onto the Bar out of the way.
    Its the TM40 carb on the bike at the moment, M12 Nut on the choke thread

    Not sure, probably 5W of what ever the local shop sells when doing the swap, Most likely Castrol Synthetic


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,815 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    goblin59 wrote: »
    Cheers! thats the style I was looking for, just have it it tied onto the Bar out of the way.
    Its the TM40 carb on the bike at the moment, M12 Nut on the choke thread

    Not sure, probably 5W of what ever the local shop sells when doing the swap, Most likely Castrol Synthetic

    https://m.ebay.ie/itm/Genuine-Mikuni-TM36-68-TM40-6-Remote-Carburetor-Choke-Cable-Bracket-Kit-NCS987-/152483079891?_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1
    For TM40.
    Intiminators need 5wt ams, the below are roughly equivalent to it. Different manufacturers interpret weights differently.
    "the oils below are very close in viscosity and should give the same ride as Amsoil 5.

    RaceTech (Motorex) (Light US-1)
    Motorex Racing Fork Oil (2.5w)
    Showa Suspension Fluid SS-05
    Maxima Racing Fork Fluid (85/150, 5w)
    Motul Fork Oil (Very Light)
    Ohlins Front Fork Fluid (No5 #1305-01)
    Golden Spectro Cartridge Fork Fluid (85/150, Very Light)
    "


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    H_Lime wrote: »
    https://m.ebay.ie/itm/Genuine-Mikuni-TM36-68-TM40-6-Remote-Carburetor-Choke-Cable-Bracket-Kit-NCS987-/152483079891?_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1
    For TM40.
    Intiminators need 5wt ams, the below are roughly equivalent to it. Different manufacturers interpret weights differently.
    "the oils below are very close in viscosity and should give the same ride as Amsoil 5.

    RaceTech (Motorex) (Light US-1)
    Motorex Racing Fork Oil (2.5w)
    Showa Suspension Fluid SS-05
    Maxima Racing Fork Fluid (85/150, 5w)
    Motul Fork Oil (Very Light)
    Ohlins Front Fork Fluid (No5 #1305-01)
    Golden Spectro Cartridge Fork Fluid (85/150, Very Light)
    "


    Cheers!

    Also **** that's expensive haha. Hopefully I can find a slightly cheaper one closer to EU / UK


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    goblin59 wrote: »
    So put the other tank on today,
    The other tank definitely looked more dynamic, but no where near the same range!

    Plus this has a built in fuel gauge,
    What is is made of Looks like plastic ?

    I was going to say paint it but as said maybe the reason for it going brittle
    Last thing you want is a trouser leg full of petrol on a hot bike

    Is there anything it can be cleaned / polished with

    You are doing a great job so far :-)
    Carry on the great work look forward to hearing about the progress
    Thanks
    J


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    What is is made of Looks like plastic ?

    I was going to say paint it but as said maybe the reason for it going brittle
    Last thing you want is a trouser leg full of petrol on a hot bike

    Is there anything it can be cleaned / polished with

    You are doing a great job so far :-)
    Carry on the great work look forward to hearing about the progress
    Thanks
    J

    Yeah they can go really brittle if painted,
    We found the original fuel cap though this morning, so thats good news, this one is leaking quite badly, so might go back into storage again, I'll repair it at some point and then put it back on if doing a really long trip.
    I'd prefer a 20 litre tank tbh! but at 300 euro I'll wait until someone crashes their DR and sells one second hand.

    I can repaint the old metal tank, its currently black and pretty bad, so will sand it down and spray it to match the front and back fenders. Need to figure out the side panels soon too. Have a left panel, but not a right panel


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    goblin59 wrote: »
    Yeah they can go really brittle if painted,
    We found the original fuel cap though this morning, so thats good news, this one is leaking quite badly, so might go back into storage again, I'll repair it at some point and then put it back on if doing a really long trip.
    I'd prefer a 20 litre tank tbh! but at 300 euro I'll wait until someone crashes their DR and sells one second hand.

    I can repaint the old metal tank, its currently black and pretty bad, so will sand it down and spray it to match the front and back fenders. Need to figure out the side panels soon too. Have a left panel, but not a right panel

    Just having a rummage on fleabay there and those tanks go go for quite a bit :-
    Anywhere between 200 and 450 yoyo +postage wow


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Just having a rummage on fleabay there and those tanks go go for quite a bit :-
    Anywhere between 200 and 450 yoyo +postage wow

    They're rare as **** second hand on the DR650 though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    goblin59 wrote: »
    They're rare as **** second hand on the DR650 though.

    I'd say Australia would be your best bet for one secondhand.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    I'd say Australia would be your best bet for one secondhand.

    Where the safari tank came from, but I'll be hit by P&P. I'm looking at doing some of the TET once things get better, I'll see then.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Finally got the procycle order today!
    Most of this is for Dad's bike, he went a bit mad on his order,

    but I've the DR650 armour kit in there plus some other bits.

    Once this is done that's the bike basically finished!
    Missing a radiator guard and pannier support bars.
    Got a set of Andy Strapz expedition panniers for £80 last year on ebay so they'll be going onto this bike.
    Panniers were in great condition too, just dirty


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,815 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Nice parcel of goodies, we're you caught for charges from Yanklandia?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Nice parcel of goodies, we're you caught for charges from Yanklandia?

    yeah, about 300 pounds of charges on the import unfortunately.
    There's some amount of stuff in there for the newer DR.
    Plus extra wide CNC Pivot pegs.

    Might be a delay getting the intimidators in, my local shop only has 1 litre of fork oil.
    Going to need 2.6 litres to do both bikes


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    That's some parcel alright :-)
    That will keep you busy for a bit


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Hopefully keep me busy for the rest of the week. The insurance on the bike starts next Monday,


    Got the moose racing hand guards on this evening,
    Tomorrow I'll fit the countershaft seal retainer.
    the local garage isn't getting the oil in until Friday, so that will be the last thing.

    Have all the case armour to fit too.
    Its just glued on though with high temperature silicone


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,815 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    I could be wrong but ya sure on the fork oil? Thought damper rod dr 650 and 750 were all about 600ml per leg.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    H_Lime wrote: »
    I could be wrong but ya sure on the fork oil? Thought damper rod dr 650 and 750 were all about 600ml per leg.

    have the Clymer manual beside me,
    565ml per a fork.
    I'm ordering more oil than really needed as I don't know the history of the forks, so I want to do a proper clean out of the old oil.

    Despite being built from 2 write offs, it will probably be more reliable than alot of other bikes as all the service items will have been done as the bike was put together.
    Still going to do a 1000km service check though


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    H_Lime wrote: »
    I could be wrong but ya sure on the fork oil? Thought damper rod dr 650 and 750 were all about 600ml per leg.

    Did you see there was a DR big up on donedeal at the moment btw
    https://www.donedeal.ie/motorbikes-for-sale/suzuki-dr800/27049976


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Did some more work on the bike this week.
    Found the old tank and Dad spent some time trying to unseize the petrol cap.
    So Once that was off I used an Angle grinder (with sanding disc) to get the old manky black paint off, and repaint it to match the bike.
    Also filled in and sanded out the dents with car body filler.

    Did 2 layers of undercoat and main colour.
    and then 3 layers of the Halfords petrol resistant Lacquer and left it for 48 hours to dry.

    Just waiting on this Fork-oil to arrive so I can put the front end on, was meant to arrive yesterday but the Garage didn't get it in yet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 450 ✭✭Zebbedee


    That colour really suits it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Zebbedee wrote: »
    That colour really suits it.
    Needs a few decals / stickers / go fast stripes or am I showing my age?
    :-)
    J


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 450 ✭✭Zebbedee


    Needs a few decals / stickers / go fast stripes or am I showing my age?
    :-)
    J

    I don't know.
    I think the minimal look really suits this bike.
    Personally I'd leave it.
    Each to their own though 😉


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    All boils down to what Goblin thinks as he is the one doing all the work :-)
    Looks great so far but I think needs a little splash of colour but its not my bike ( unfortunately )
    So we will have to wait until next weeks instalment and see what he comes out with :-)
    Carry on the good work
    J


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    haha cheers everyone,
    I'll be doing a few stickers on the bike, but going to keep it to Countries / Festivals visited on the bike, so hopefully get a few added during the summer.
    If I see a suitable Pig sticker for the tank I'll be sticking that on though.
    Basically doing a DR desert Sled, so if I could find a Dakar pig sticker that's going straight on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    goblin59 wrote: »
    haha cheers everyone,
    I'll be doing a few stickers on the bike, but going to keep it to Countries / Festivals visited on the bike, so hopefully get a few added during the summer.
    If I see a suitable Pig sticker for the tank I'll be sticking that on though.
    Basically doing a DR desert Sled, so if I could find a Dakar pig sticker that's going straight on.
    https://www.thedecalmaster.com/18-Devil-Rally-Pig-Decal-Sticker/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    I did see this one online as well


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    fly screen arrived today.
    All its really doing is hiding the cables from view, but the bike is basically finished now. I'm missing the Right side plastic panel, but thats in the post on its way.


    Speedo doesn't work either, but I use the Garmin most of the time anyway and the bike is going to be for trails


    DR number 3 is now up on the stand, this one belonging to Dad, he'll be doing it up with all the procycle goodies that came in the post the other day.


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