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The little gap left at door when fitting laminate flooring.

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  • 16-11-2019 3:45pm
    #1
    iamtony
    Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭


    1573915245270387202318579887524.jpg

    Anyway to make this look better? Can caulk be used here? I know the best thing is to cut under the frame like I've done for the architrave(spelling?) but this floor was a bitch to get together and it needed an angle so didn't think I could get it together. I've cut it tighter around most doors bit this was an odd one with a weird angle and strange floorboards on the other side messing with it.


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    #2
    Conall Cernach
    Registered Users Posts: 1,929 ✭✭✭Conall Cernach


    If it were me I would probably try to fit a tiny sliver of the laminate in there.


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    #3
    iamtony
    Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Conall Cernach wrote: »
    If it were me I would probably try to fit a tiny sliver of the laminate in there.
    not a bad idea. The only thing I'd worry about is if it's tight is that the wood rub when walked on and creak.


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    #4
    selfbuild17
    Registered Users Posts: 125 ✭✭selfbuild17


    You could fit a strip of cork there. It would have some give to allow for expansion and also have a similar finish to the flooring. It’s a bit fiddly to get it in neatly though.


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    #5
    iamtony
    Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    selfbuild17 wrote: »
    You could fit a strip of cork there. It would have some give to allow for expansion and also have a similar finish to the flooring. It’s a bit fiddly to get it in neatly though.

    This stuff? Vitrex Cork Expansion Strips 18 Pack 6257H https://g.co/kgs/ETyDNr

    For that door I'll try a bit of that. But the other doors the gap is like 1 mm would a sealant like caulk or white silicon work, like would it be flexible enough?


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    #6
    iamtony
    Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    15739193164631344067679231390621.jpg like the other side of that door here


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    #7
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,088 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Tbh anything you put in that changes the black hole appearance will be fine.
    You can get caulk in all sorts of colours... I'd just go with that and move on if it was me.


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    #8
    salmocab
    Registered Users Posts: 11,296 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    Presumably from your pic all the doors and skirts are white, a bit of white silicone would probably not be noticed.(done neatly)


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    #9
    dodzy
    Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    +1 for silicon; it will be fine. It's really just to take the eye off it.


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    #10
    iamtony
    Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Think I'll do the sliver of laminate in the big crack and silicon after and then silicon the rest. Thanks lads. It's hall stairs and landing so loads of frames:rolleyes:


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    #11
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,709 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    dodzy wrote: »
    +1 for silicon; it will be fine. It's really just to take the eye off it.

    Caulk , not silicon


    Caulk is better there easier to work with sandable don't use silicon


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    #12
    katiek102010
    Registered Users Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭katiek102010


    I personally wouldn't. The laminate needs room to breathe and expand.

    I would personally get a small bit of beading and attach it to the wall/skirting to cover it


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    #13
    iamtony
    Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    15739991510527130777364126687927.jpg used caulk as that's what I had although if I had silicon I probably would of preferred to use that as it would flex better I think. Looks much better. I ended up using a whole tube of caulk cause I could see all the gaps in the door frame once I started looking. I really should of sanded the end of that frame first it's in bits.


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    #14
    iamtony
    Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    katiek102010 wrote: »
    I personally wouldn't. The laminate needs room to breathe and expand.

    I would personally get a small bit of beading and attach it to the wall/skirting to cover it

    I've got the skirting nice and tight to the floor I even went as far as sanding a curve in one spot because it was uneven it's only at the doors I've an issue and you can't really use beading their. The expansion in laminate is minimal.


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    #15
    TheChizler
    Registered Users Posts: 9,426 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    Would you consider cutting back the bottom of the door frame and put the laminate under? I've done that before using a tenon saw flat on the floor and it looks good. Might not be possible if you've the rest of the floor down.


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    #16
    iamtony
    Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    TheChizler wrote: »
    Would you consider cutting back the bottom of the door frame and put the laminate under? I've done that before using a tenon saw flat on the floor and it looks good. Might not be possible if you've the rest of the floor down.
    Floor is finished now. I did consider it but it was very thick laminate and needed to go together at an angle so sliding under the frame wasn't really an option. Well I could of cut off the locking tab with a blade and used glue but I was afraid I wouldn't be able to get the boards as tight together, plus it's a stress point at the door anyway.


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    #17
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,709 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    katiek102010 wrote: »
    I personally wouldn't. The laminate needs room to breathe and expand.

    I would personally get a small bit of beading and attach it to the wall/skirting to cover it

    If your laminate I'd expanding that much you've a water problem. It's not like solid timber floors.

    This is a small section of doorway. Quite literally no issue will come of caulk.

    It should have been cut under but here we are.


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    #18
    HappyAsLarE
    Closed Accounts Posts: 771 ✭✭✭HappyAsLarE


    iamtony wrote: »
    Floor is finished now. I did consider it but it was very thick laminate and needed to go together at an angle so sliding under the frame wasn't really an option. Well I could of cut off the locking tab with a blade and used glue but I was afraid I wouldn't be able to get the boards as tight together, plus it's a stress point at the door anyway.

    You just shave off the protrusion of the receiving piece, lay the new piece in, then tap tap to join.


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    #19
    stoneill
    Registered Users Posts: 3,610 ✭✭✭stoneill


    In one of the first floors I put down I had this issue and fixed with what I had lying about in the shed.
    I used some of the expanding foam to fill the gap, very sharp blade to cut flush with floor.
    Then mixed a bit of wood filler with a paint colour to match the floor surface and coated the foam with the concoction and sanded flush. Final layer with a bit of varnish and it gave a better look than using the beading.
    If I was doing it now I'd cut the bottom off door frames and slide the floor under.


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