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Difficult to change gear after new clutch & f/wheel

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  • 14-11-2015 8:32pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,190 ✭✭✭


    Had to get the clutch and flywheel replaced on my mk3 mondeo 5 speed recently and since I got it back changing from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd doesn't feel normal.

    It sort of feels like im not using the clutch to change gear. Another way to describe it is like a grinding/resistance feeling. It goes into 1st fairly smooth. Funny enough though it is also very smooth going back from 3rd to 2nd.

    I was thinking whether or not it could be the synchro but it has only done this since I got it back. Mis-aligned gear linkage ? Bad gear oil or even needs to be bled again ?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 694 ✭✭✭5W30


    Are you pressing the clutch pedal in fully?

    The new clutch should bite a lot earlier so if you're used to barely pressing the clutch pedal it will be harder.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,190 ✭✭✭Mister Jingles


    5W30 wrote: »
    Are you pressing the clutch pedal in fully?

    The new clutch should bite a lot earlier so if you're used to barely pressing the clutch pedal it will be harder.

    Yep, anymore and my foot would be through the floor.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,284 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Just take it back.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭The Sidewards Man


    Did they refill the box with oil I wonder


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,190 ✭✭✭Mister Jingles


    Did they refill the box with oil I wonder

    They did but I was wondering if with the correct amount. It's an intermittent issue, most noticeable when it's cold or when I set off after not driving it for a while.

    I was out driving in it tonight and it seemed fine, the best thing I was thinking of doing was to keep an eye on it for the next few hundred miles since I've only put 120 on it since I've got it back and take things from there.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭The Sidewards Man


    Was the gear changes ok before the clutch change?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 694 ✭✭✭5W30


    They did but I was wondering if with the correct amount. It's an intermittent issue, most noticeable when it's cold or when I set off after not driving it for a while.

    I was out driving in it tonight and it seemed fine, the best thing I was thinking of doing was to keep an eye on it for the next few hundred miles since I've only put 120 on it since I've got it back and take things from there.

    Make sure they refilled the box with the correct spec.

    I had these issues on my Yaris. Went to a motor factors asking for GL-4 spec gearbox oil and of course they told me they don't have GL-4 but they have GL-5 gearbox oil which is better and backwards compatible.

    The synchros weren't working correctly with GL-5 and I had to double clutch to change gears, it was a nightmare.

    Ended up getting GL-4 spec oil elsewhere, drained the GL-5, put in GL-4 and the gearbox was good as new...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,190 ✭✭✭Mister Jingles


    Was the gear changes ok before the clutch change?

    Yea it was fine before hand, it received a new clutch due to clutch drag. But that's been sorted now.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,190 ✭✭✭Mister Jingles


    5W30 wrote: »
    Make sure they refilled the box with the correct spec.

    I had these issues on my Yaris. Went to a motor factors asking for GL-4 spec gearbox oil and of course they told me they don't have GL-4 but they have GL-5 gearbox oil which is better and backwards compatible.

    The synchros weren't working correctly with GL-5 and I had to double clutch to change gears, it was a nightmare.

    Ended up getting GL-4 spec oil elsewhere, drained the GL-5, put in GL-4 and the gearbox was good as new...

    I'll look into that, and see what they have to say.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭The Sidewards Man


    Some garages have one drum of gear oil and think that will do all types of gear boxes, transfer boxes, diffs and lsd diffs. I think the garage you used are one of them.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 383 ✭✭Waterson


    id start by getting them to rebleed the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. it is good pratcive to have this replaced when changing clutch as the box has to be removed regardless to change it (its a concentric slave cylinder, i.e. release bearing and cylinder are one component).


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