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Cattle crush

  • 10-12-2019 9:01pm
    #1
    Teddy 1234
    Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭


    The posts for the crush could they be bolted into the concrete instead of been set in the concrete. Would it be strong enough just bolted


Comments

  • #2
    djmc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭djmc


    I would set them in as I think it would be a better job you dont want to find out the morning of the test. I set poles in concrete even where there was not a concrete yard and its a firm job. Hire a kango and get a bag of gravel a few bags of cement and for around 100 euro and a days work you will have a lifetime job. Use some stones or small rocks and save cement.


  • #3
    Odelay
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,891 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Teddy 1234 wrote: »
    The posts for the crush could they be bolted into the concrete instead of been set in the concrete. Would it be strong enough just bolted

    Bolts are fine for static loads, cattle are dynamic loads, pushing and pulling. Best to set them in concrete.


  • #4
    Teddy 1234
    Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭Teddy 1234


    Odelay wrote: »
    Bolts are fine for static loads, cattle are dynamic loads, pushing and pulling. Best to set them in concrete.

    I have an existing crush running along a mass concrete wall, but it's too narrow so I was thinking of bolting down posts 30 cm out from the existing crush, so it would make the crush in the middle and I would be dosing where the original crush was. Maybe it wouldn't work


  • #5
    Anto_Meath
    Registered Users Posts: 1,393 ✭✭✭Anto_Meath


    Teddy 1234 wrote: »
    I have an existing crush running along a mass concrete wall, but it's too narrow so I was thinking of bolting down posts 30 cm out from the existing crush, so it would make the crush in the middle and I would be dosing where the original crush was. Maybe it wouldn't work

    I assume you mean 30 inches (still a bit narrow for cows) as 30 cm would be to narrow, if the current crush is less than this and it is to narrow then it will be too narrow for you to work comfortably in. Also consider which hand you work with, our main crush can operate in either direction but I find cattle are going from right to left I am able to hold and work with them better than the other way around as I am right handed. if that makes sense to you.


  • #6
    Teddy 1234
    Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭Teddy 1234


    Anto_Meath wrote: »
    I assume you mean 30 inches (still a bit narrow for cows) as 30 cm would be to narrow, if the current crush is less than this and it is to narrow then it will be too narrow for you to work comfortably in. Also consider which hand you work with, our main crush can operate in either direction but I find cattle are going from right to left I am able to hold and work with them better than the other way around as I am right handed. if that makes sense to you.

    Yes 30 inches. What width would you go for suckler cows


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  • #7
    Sami23
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Anto_Meath wrote: »
    I find cattle are going from right to left I am able to hold and work with them better than the other way around as I am right handed. if that makes sense to you.

    I find the opposite as in if cattle are travelling left to right I find it easier to dose. Hold head with left hand and dose with right hand.
    I'm right handed too

    But suppose it depends which side of the crush you are standing too to know which is left and right :)


  • #8
    Anto_Meath
    Registered Users Posts: 1,393 ✭✭✭Anto_Meath


    Teddy 1234 wrote: »
    Yes 30 inches. What width would you go for suckler cows

    30 inches should be ok as I think most head gates are around that width, maybe check the one you intend to use. Our crush is 34 inches wide which is fine for our suckler cows & bullocks, but then you end up with weanlings 2 wide in it which can be a pain. We can also use ours if needed when a cow is calving so that is why we have it wide.


  • #9
    Anto_Meath
    Registered Users Posts: 1,393 ✭✭✭Anto_Meath


    Sami23 wrote: »
    I find the opposite as in if cattle are travelling left to right I find it easier to dose. Hold head with left hand and dose with right hand.
    I'm right handed too

    But suppose it depends which side of the crush you are standing too to know which is left and right :)

    Ye I know, I hold them with my right hand and then use the dosing gun with my left hand. Also find for squeezing I find I have more power if my right hand is at the base of the tail which works when the cattle are going right to left as opposed to left to right...


  • #10
    Sami23
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Anto_Meath wrote: »
    30 inches should be ok as I think most head gates are around that width, maybe check the one you intend to use. Our crush is 34 inches wide which is fine for our suckler cows & bullocks, but then you end up with weanlings 2 wide in it which can be a pain. We can also use ours if needed when a cow is calving so that is why we have it wide.

    Jas 34" seems wide alright. You would probably end up with animals turning in it too which would be a pain


  • #11
    Anto_Meath
    Registered Users Posts: 1,393 ✭✭✭Anto_Meath


    Sami23 wrote: »
    Jas 34" seems wide alright. You would probably end up with animals turning in it too which would be a pain
    Ye it can happen with the smaller ones alright, but in general for testing or dosing its fine once you pack the crush. Even squeezing weanlings if they are two wide in it they tend to stand quite side by side.


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  • #12
    Cavanjack
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,642 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    Teddy 1234 wrote: »
    The posts for the crush could they be bolted into the concrete instead of been set in the concrete. Would it be strong enough just bolted

    Have it done here no bother with it but don’t have the front or the back post bolted as these will have too much pressure on them.
    If I was doing it again I’d set them in concrete but I was in a rush at the time as had a test coming up and thought I wouldn’t have time. As a previous poster said a day with a consaw and jack hammer would have it ready for concrete and a few bags of cement would work out cheaper than a load of concrete fixings.


  • #13
    Who2
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,091 ✭✭✭Who2


    I’ve an old 29” crush that will take most cows once not too heavy in calf. I put in a new crush that’s 30”at the posts (narrowest point) but is 32” between the gates. It takes most but one of the bulls can’t go through the head gate and struggles at the posts. I made a walkway to one side that’s 36” along a wall and I run the bull and heavy cows through it but don’t have a headlock gate on it. It works grand. Don’t bolt down the posts unless they are braced back to a wall or something decent. A couple of hours with a kango and a good masonry drill and you’ll have a job for life.


  • #14
    SuperTortoise
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,038 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    Unless you made up your own posts out of heavy wall steel and your a tasty welder i would'nt chance it.
    Set the posts in concrete, 3 or 4 good cows all pushing together is some pressure, posts would probably snap at the weld joining base plate to post as thats the weakest point.


  • #15
    Sami23
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭Sami23


    SuperTortoise wrote: »
    Unless you made up your own posts out of heavy wall steel and your a tasty welder i would'nt chance it.
    Set the posts in concrete, 3 or 4 good cows all pushing together is some pressure, posts would probably snap at the weld joining base plate to post as thats the weakest point.

    Agree just can't see posts bolted to concrete being strong enough to hold sucklers or any adult cattle for that matter.
    When the push comes on from them you could be killed so safety first.
    Spend a bit of time and do it right


  • #16
    Dunedin
    Registered Users Posts: 2,379 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    Sami23 wrote: »
    Agree just can't see posts bolted to concrete being strong enough to hold sucklers or any adult cattle for that matter.
    When the push comes on from them you could be killed so safety first.
    Spend a bit of time and do it right

    +1 on the above


    And get a couple of metres of readymix too. Far better than what you’d mix yourself.

    If you’re not in too much of a hurry, just get it set up and ask local supplier to keep you a couple of metres at the end of a load when they’re passing.


  • #17
    hopeso
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,441 ✭✭✭hopeso


    As said, they will be better all round set in concrete.... But, I wouldn't use very good concrete for setting them in. A dry mix, not over rich in cement is perfectly good for setting them in, assuming you're in fairly good ground. Fill the hole up to within 6" of the top with this dry mix, and finish it off with 6" of good quality concrete up to ground level. The reason for this is that if (or most likely when) you need to replace the uprights, the poorer concrete will be much easier to break out. I know that the day you are setting them in you'll think 'they'll never need to come up again', but believe me, they'll rot faster than you'd expect....


  • #18
    Micheal H
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 158 ✭✭Micheal H


    What I did for my own crush was get sleeves for the posts and then set the sleeves in the concrete. Just as sturdy as the posts themselves being set in the concrete and if there ever came a time that anything had to be taken up, it's just a matter of sliding everything up out of the sleeves as opposed to the nightmare of having to take the kango to it.


  • #19
    Sami23
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Micheal H wrote: »
    What I did for my own crush was get sleeves for the posts and then set the sleeves in the concrete. Just as sturdy as the posts themselves being set in the concrete and if there ever came a time that anything had to be taken up, it's just a matter of sliding everything up out of the sleeves as opposed to the nightmare of having to take the kango to it.

    But what's to stop your cattle lifting the crush up with their heads now seen as the posts are just left into the sleeves ?


  • #20
    Micheal H
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 158 ✭✭Micheal H


    Sami23 wrote: »
    But what's to stop your cattle lifting the crush up with their heads now seen as the posts are just left into the sleeves ?

    When all the gate panels are in place it's impossible for them to lift the posts. It's been in place for 5 years now and seen plenty of wild beasts pass through it and hasn't budged once.


  • #21
    Hard Knocks
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,077 ✭✭✭Hard Knocks


    Micheal H wrote: »
    What I did for my own crush was get sleeves for the posts and then set the sleeves in the concrete. Just as sturdy as the posts themselves being set in the concrete and if there ever came a time that anything had to be taken up, it's just a matter of sliding everything up out of the sleeves as opposed to the nightmare of having to take the kango to it.

    What size posts and sleeves did you use?
    How far are the sleeves in the ground


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  • #22
    Wildsurfer
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,438 ✭✭✭Wildsurfer


    That 5" red plastic pipe used to bury ESB cable is the perfect sleeve for 4" blueband tubular steel.


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