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Can someone help me understand my new heating setip

  • 22-01-2019 7:12pm
    #1
    fjon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,088 ✭✭✭


    Just bought a new house and the inside of the hot press looks a lot different to anywhere I've lived before. I was wondering if anyone could help me understand what I'm looking at here? It's probably a fairly common setup, but I've lived in a mostly older houses until now.

    ceQUxPD.jpg
    Top switch is the immersion. Isolator switch has four wires coming out of it - 3 going to the white valve things, and one going to the thing that looks like a thermostat attached to the bottom of the bottom of the cylinder. The plug is for the pump.

    QS8D1Xy.jpg

    Should the isolated switch be on?


Comments

  • #2
    Vote4Napoleon
    Registered Users Posts: 72 ✭✭Vote4Napoleon


    Turn ur immersion switch off, the stat on the cylinder switches on the valve for the hot water. The live to the stat is probably controlled by a timeclock. Heating the water through either gas or oil is way more efficient than the immersion plus it heats way more water than the immersion.

    Edit: if you have some pipe lagging it wud be no harm to put it around the pipe where the pump lead touches.


  • #3
    fjon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,088 ✭✭✭fjon


    Thanks for that. I presume the white valves aren't on as the switch isn't on - would I need to turn that on? Not sure what timer you mean, apart from the main heating timer near the downstairs boiler?


  • #4
    rightjob!
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 478 ✭✭rightjob!


    fjon wrote: »
    Thanks for that. I presume the white valves aren't on as the switch isn't on - would I need to turn that on? Not sure what timer you mean, apart from the main heating timer near the downstairs boiler?

    Do you have two room thermostats?one down stairs and one upstairs?


  • #5
    fjon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,088 ✭✭✭fjon


    rightjob! wrote: »
    Do you have two room thermostats?one down stairs and one upstairs?
    Yes, one in the living room and one in the main bedroom


  • #6
    rightjob!
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 478 ✭✭rightjob!


    fjon wrote: »
    Yes, one in the living room and one in the main bedroom

    If you turn both room thermostats to 0 it closes the motorised valves and stops the rads from heating up,so you will be heating just the water then with the gas boiler.


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  • #7
    fjon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,088 ✭✭✭fjon


    Great, thanks. I guess I need to change the valves from the "MAN" to the "AUTO" setting also?


  • #8
    Vote4Napoleon
    Registered Users Posts: 72 ✭✭Vote4Napoleon


    fjon wrote:
    Great, thanks. I guess I need to change the valves from the "MAN" to the "AUTO" setting also?


    Yes do dat if they're in man den they're open


  • #9
    fjon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,088 ✭✭✭fjon


    Dragging up an old thread I made. I didn't quite do this right last summer, and I ended up turning off each rad individually in the summer so the gas only heated the hot water.
    I'm determined the get it right this time! So I've turned the wall thermostat in the living room and in the bedroom to 0C - this should mean the water is heated when I turn on the "heating", right? The motorised valve nearest the water cylinder in the first picture is turned on and set to automatic - is that correct?


  • #10
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,304 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    For hot water only, to me it looks like the 2 in 1st pic should be off and other one in 2nd pic on.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #11
    fjon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,088 ✭✭✭fjon


    Ok, by off you mean unplugged completely? For the one in the second pic, should the switch be on "Manual" or "Automatic"?


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  • #12
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,304 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    fjon wrote: »
    Ok, by off you mean unplugged completely? For the one in the second pic, should the switch be on "Manual" or "Automatic"?

    If they are working properly they should never be unplugged. Also they all should be on automatic. Then they should be controlled electronically by a combination of thermostats and programmer.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #13
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,304 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Wearb wrote: »
    If they are working properly they should never be unplugged. Also they all should be on automatic. Then they should be controlled electronically by a combination of thermostats and programmer.

    Leave them all plugged in and on automatic. Turn both room stats down all the way. Turn up the cylinder stat to about 65/70 (you'll soon see what's suits you best).
    Then turn your programmer to call for hot water only. Your pair of valves should remain closed and other one open and your boiler should come on. ---assuming your cylinder isn't already hot.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #14
    fjon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,088 ✭✭✭fjon


    Ok, the issue might be that currently there is only 1 Zone, we don't have separate zones for upstairs/ downstairs/ hot water. It's either all on or off. I thought it might be possible to change ones of the valves to make only the water in the cylinder heat up, and not the rads.


  • #15
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,304 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    fjon wrote: »
    Ok, the issue might be that currently there is only 1 Zone, we don't have separate zones for upstairs/ downstairs/ hot water. It's either all on or off. I thought it might be possible to change ones of the valves to make only the water in the cylinder heat up, and not the rads.
    It's plumbed for 3 zones, 3 valves.
    It's wired for 3 zones, 3 stats.

    So I don't understand your above statement.
    Perhaps you mean that something isn't working as it should.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #16
    fjon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,088 ✭✭✭fjon


    Yeah, it was plumbed for 3 zones, but the controller is only set up to do one zone. I don't know the history of why it's done like this - it was before I moved in. I had a plumber look at it when he was in the house and he said it looks like someone started but didn't finish the job of changing from 1 zone to 3.


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