Changing the kitchen tab - Where the hell...?

Kaldo · 26-03-2020 3:14pm #1

Hi guys,

Where is the stopcock for the hot water? It's not under the kitchen sink where the pipework is placed. I could close the one for the cold water though.

Anyway... any advice/tip to change it? I've been checking some YT videos that actually require to let the water flow when closing them.

Thanks

Bertie Bassett · 26-03-2020 3:21pm

My hot water stopcock is in the hotpress, on the pipe coming from the hot tank (obviously). The only thing is that this turns off all the hot water taps, I can't turn off supply to just one tap. I always turn the taps off and then the stopcock and then turn the tap on again to drain the small amount of water in the pipe.

Wearb · 26-03-2020 6:46pm

Usually at the bottom of the cylinder or near there. Opposite side to the two heating pipes.

Kaldo · 26-03-2020 7:22pm

Thanks guys... I see a few valves in my hot press. There are 3 that come from the water tanks in the attic. One I identify it as the cold water, the other ones is the water for the heating rads and the last one I believe is for hot water. Can I close that one?

One more thing, before I turn it on back to normal, all hot water taps should be open to avoid air coming to the hot cylinder press?

Wearb · 26-03-2020 7:26pm

Kaldo wrote: »

Thanks guys... I see a few valves in my hot press. There are 3 that come from the water tanks in the attic. One I identify it as the cold water, the other ones is the water for the heating rads and the last one I believe is for hot water. Can I close that one?

One more thing, before I turn it on back to normal, all hot water taps should be open to avoid air coming to the hot cylinder press?

I would keep them closed except for the one you are going to be working on. You need to know that the valve is closing fully.

Idioteque · 26-03-2020 10:27pm

The pipe coming from the attic tank to the bottom of the hot water cylinder will be the one to shut off. It's actually a cold water pipe but it forces the hot water out of the cylinder via pressure - by turning it off there's no pressure to force the hot water out.

One thing to watch is usually the shutoff valves are gate valves (red circular handle) and they can seize open or closed but you'll find out soon enough by leaving the hot tap running. A good tip is that when you're done and opening the valve again, to slightly turn it back closed a 1/8 turn to it has some give should it ever seize in future.

Worthwhile fitting lever isolation valve on the pipework in your kitchen while you're at it so you can easily just isolate the kitchen tap in future.

dodzy · 27-03-2020 9:13am

Idioteque wrote: »

The pipe coming from the attic tank to the bottom of the hot water cylinder will be the one to shut off. It's actually a cold water pipe but it forces the hot water out of the cylinder via pressure - by turning it off there's no pressure to force the hot water out.

One thing to watch is usually the shutoff valves are gate valves (red circular handle) and they can seize open or closed but you'll find out soon enough by leaving the hot tap running. A good tip is that when you're done and opening the valve again, to slightly turn it back closed a 1/8 turn to it has some give should it ever seize in future.

Worthwhile fitting lever isolation valve on the pipework in your kitchen while you're at it so you can easily just isolate the kitchen tap in future.

Unfortunately, the gate valves that are supplied by plumbing outlets these days are of shîte quality and have been for some time. Personally, if you’re ever in a situation where you need to swap one out because it has failed, then do so with a good quality lever valve. If your gate valve is still functional, I’d always advocate opening it fully once the job is done, and then closing it off by one full rotation. Will go some way to preventing seizure in the future as pointed out above. Good advice.

Igotadose · 27-03-2020 9:18am

dodzy wrote: »

Unfortunately, the gate valves that are supplied by plumbing outlets these days are of shîte quality and have been for some time. Personally, if you’re ever in a situation where you need to swap one out because it has failed, then do so with a good quality lever valve. If your gate valve is still functional, I’d always advocate opening it fully once the job is done, and then closing it off by one full rotation. Will go some way to preventing seizure in the future as pointed out above. Good advice.

having replaced gate valves in my house in the US in the late 1980's-2000's, they've been sh1te for decades. Lever valves, esp. if you can the ones with the teflon works (good if you have hard water) are the only way to go.

Kaldo · 28-03-2020 11:29am

Thank you all

Sorry for the bother again but now there are no excuses to change it with the lockdown out there

How can I remove this? Pic attached

Wearb · 28-03-2020 12:17pm

The last part of this video explains. There is a plastic tool for shoving in those parts, but for a single use you should be able to find a workaround. Perhaps another piece of pipe cut and ground to do the job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggrb4urhv54

Idioteque · 28-03-2020 9:06pm

Without the small tool (essentially a plastic u shape) designed for it, you can us an adjustable spanner. Adjust it to the pipe further up then slide it down to push in the Green part toward the fitting while at the same time pulling the pipe away from the fitting. Shouldn't take much force.

Apply force with the spanner at it's head right where it's pressing rather than further down the handle

Kaldo · 29-03-2020 4:18pm

I will give a try. Thank you!

Changing the kitchen tab - Where the hell...?

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