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Labour Saving and General Guntering

  • 17-06-2009 7:49pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
    A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

    Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

    I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

    My own projects include:
    Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
    Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
    Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

    Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

    Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

    So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?


«134567172

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,234 ✭✭✭vincenzolorenzo


    great idea! haven't really got anything to add i'm afraid but i'll look forward to hearing about other people's contraptions. Plus i love the word 'guntering'!!!:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    I've made a couple of creep feeders and creep gates in the past. Have a creep under manufacture at the monent too - actually its been on the go for the last 12 months and I just can't find the time/motivation to finish it. I also made my own bale spike, gates and try to do repairs along with that.

    I'm a fairly neat welder - I can do consistand thick and straight welds, but I have to admit that I'm just not a precision kind of guy. I won't win any awards for my straight cutting and any welding repairs that I do are kinda done in a bit of a hurry :):):) and it just seems that I try to throw a thick weld on it as fast as possible.

    Have a PZ haybob that doesn't like me :) and I had to weld it at least once a year for the last 5 years at the centre joint. Brought it to a professional welder this year and he cut it and rewelded it. I guess I'm not that good of a welder after all when I see the job that he did.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    reilig wrote: »
    I've made a couple of creep feeders and creep gates in the past. Have a creep under manufacture at the monent too - actually its been on the go for the last 12 months and I just can't find the time/motivation to finish it. I also made my own bale spike, gates and try to do repairs along with that.

    I'm a fairly neat welder - I can do consistand thick and straight welds, but I have to admit that I'm just not a precision kind of guy. I won't win any awards for my straight cutting and any welding repairs that I do are kinda done in a bit of a hurry :):):) and it just seems that I try to throw a thick weld on it as fast as possible.

    Have a PZ haybob that doesn't like me :) and I had to weld it at least once a year for the last 5 years at the centre joint. Brought it to a professional welder this year and he cut it and rewelded it. I guess I'm not that good of a welder after all when I see the job that he did.

    please provide some pics.
    This is not about who is the neatest welder/fabricator more about the ideas behind peoples creations. So please show the good the bad and the ugly.

    I have the same problem with two haybobs, got a welder friend of mine to fix them and he added some extra bracing, I'll show some pics of this too when I get the camera out.

    @vincenzolorenzo, I think guntering is the only word to describe the creation/modifictation of some farm built implements.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,296 ✭✭✭leg wax


    my little idea is when you are takeing off your manure spreader put it up on 2 lorry tyres which are on top of each other on their sides , makes it very easy to manoeuvre when putting back on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 500 ✭✭✭dryan


    My idea:

    The 3-bay double slatted shed on the farm was built back in the early 1970's.
    At the time, the width centre passage/feeding passage up the middle of the shed was 9ft - probably standard at the time cause the majority of tractors on farms were no bigger than a MF135 which left plenty of room either side for the cattles heads. In the mid nineties we purchased a MF390. This caused problems for a few years as i would have to keep the cattles heads back while putting in silage. Had a few close ones where i nearly took the heads of a few bullocks when i wasnt paying attention.

    I then came up with the idea of these light weight gates that hinged along the top of the feeding barrier. Got the brother-in-law to give me a few welding tips, bought a few bits of steel and a week later, had the gates installed.
    The gates are hinged along the top of the barrier. When i want to put in silage, i lower the gates, preventing the cattle from putting out their heads. When the silage is all in, i raise the gates and the cattle can feed away.

    Worked a treat!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    leg wax wrote: »
    my little idea is when you are takeing off your manure spreader put it up on 2 lorry tyres which are on top of each other on their sides , makes it very easy to manoeuvre when putting back on.

    yea tyres can be useful for small implements to rest on we use them under things like transport boxes also.
    dryan wrote: »
    My idea:

    The 3-bay double slatted shed on the farm was built back in the early 1970's.
    At the time, the width centre passage/feeding passage up the middle of the shed was 9ft - probably standard at the time cause the majority of tractors on farms were no bigger than a MF135 which left plenty of room either side for the cattles heads. In the mid nineties we purchased a MF390. This caused problems for a few years as i would have to keep the cattles heads back while putting in silage. Had a few close ones where i nearly took the heads of a few bullocks when i wasnt paying attention.

    I then came up with the idea of these light weight gates that hinged along the top of the feeding barrier. Got the brother-in-law to give me a few welding tips, bought a few bits of steel and a week later, had the gates installed.
    The gates are hinged along the top of the barrier. When i want to put in silage, i lower the gates, preventing the cattle from putting out their heads. When the silage is all in, i raise the gates and the cattle can feed away.

    Worked a treat!

    Sounds interesting, a few pic's would be good if you can get a chance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    5EA12E9685B24512B5C380C613983397-500.jpg 448FD96DA8D54824AE7B95636F7A3A19-500.jpg

    B8D0CFEC6A5D4FF0B31DB7C2BB603247-500.jpg

    We have two tractors with loaders, a 390T with trima loader and a 365 with MF loader. So we made a hitch to fit MF Loader to Trima implements.

    I will take some pics of our loader bale lifter attachment tomorrow when I'm fitting to tractor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,708 ✭✭✭roosterman71


    We've plenty of things around home that were made by myself and my father. From what I can remember, there is
    • a 14ft x 8ft trailer and a 12ft x 6ft trailer (both standard trailers for sand/gravel/stones/etc)
    • a square bale carrier. Carries about 40 bales and fits onto the front of a JCB 3C
    • a bale spike that slides onto a JCB bucket
    • a bale spike for the back of the tractor
    • a dung fork for a loader
    • a bale trailer
    They aren't really things that were made to make life easier cos we could of just bought these things. My father also made cattle trailers about 20 years ago which he sold on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    They aren't really things that were made to make life easier cos we could of just bought these things. My father also made cattle trailers about 20 years ago which he sold on.

    :confused: Surely anything you made was to make life easier. Sure you could have bought most of those things. But coming up with the cash for such things is not always easy. And farms always seem to build up large amounts of scrap steel.

    But I get your point most of those things are sort of generic and built on many farms around the country I don't know of one farm that doesn't have at least one DIY trailer . Still I think it could be interesting to see the sort of things built on farms from the "Generic" to original concepts.

    My hitch above is hardly a masterpiece of engineering and its not something that you can buy from your local dealer. Yet it is one of the most important pieces of equipment we have, as we have no MF loader implements but we have and a decent selection of Trima ones. We need it to fit our grab to clean out all of our FYM as the 390T won't fit into some of the older sheds and the 365 won't pull the side slinger.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    416457B3697D456B98C0AB785DF8DD09-500.jpg

    25C574BD2AE8416692F25CA6A70E8AE7-500.jpg

    1133E1184D9A44D0869BB71049E9229A-500.jpg

    16F4ECB89BE24A92B5D63EF68E4731EE-500.jpg

    ADCBC6536F4840E69D207AE4AA28EBE5-500.jpg

    56627060512E43D6AA987A3C1D5C3D69-500.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,532 ✭✭✭Ginja Ninja


    ^^^ NOW THAT I LIKE!!!!
    That looks a mighty handy set up,well done thinking of it.
    What I will say is,would you ever think of making a bale handler?
    We have one here a neighbour put together with a hydraulic ram in the arms,so it can open around the bale.it's proven handier in so many ways than just bales.

    oh,and my bit of gunthering:Using the front loader for any and all sorts of stupidcreative reasons you can imagine.Who needs a post driver when you can prop your tractor up on top of the stake:pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    ^^^ NOW THAT I LIKE!!!!
    That looks a mighty handy set up,well done thinking of it.
    What I will say is,would you ever think of making a bale handler?
    We have one here a neighbour put together with a hydraulic ram in the arms,so it can open around the bale.it's proven handier in so many ways than just bales.

    Yea I might consider one of those if I get my hands on a hydraulic ram.


    Here's my current project, it still requires some welding and bracing. Its a wrapped bale carrier for 4 bales

    CC55AADA5A834938860E09DA6869F59F-500.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 244 ✭✭pjbrady1


    If you take the pump out of an old fridge and attached a plugged lead at one end and a hose with a tyre pump valve at the other. Hey presto you have a quick and very robust electric tyre pump. It will pump a rear tractor tyre in a few minutes. You have to seal tight the hosed end. Be careful you have not left anything live and exposed. Make sure your plug is properly fused with the correct ampage fuse.
    That device was made by a man who never went to secondary school even. Very handy man he was. N I witnessed it going for years n years.

    Not really a device but one I came up with. To tighten old sheep wire that needs to square up a bit n take the slack out. I found if you grab a strand with a pliers n keep twisting, when you have the wire sufficiently tightened, open your pliers to make room in the curled wire and you slip the pliers jaws back out. Repeat along each strand of the sheep wire to the top. Don't over do it. Just enough to take the slack out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    back of bucket.jpg

    botthmof bucket.jpg

    side of bucket.jpgthat is very handy the bale lifter on the loader i myself have just bough a welder and am getting neighbour to show me a few bits and peicies with it have been messing around with it for last week getting good welds and the slag is comeing of it self heard thats a good weld aslo penatrateing the steel good too .i have decided to make a bucket to load turf at the bog out of 2inch angle iron and 2inch flat along with 4inch flat to mount loader brackets and fill in areas with strong mesh this would be loaded from spread by hand and then tiped into trailer on road save bringing trailer into bog and save trowing turf into grain trailer and being light on road it wont ate the tires of the tractor i am attaching a few drawings i have done and will post finished product at some stage also on the list is bal extenstion to 12x7trailer to allow 3bales



    if u have any sugetsion on my design please feel free to tel me
    i know the drawing not too great but u get the idea
    all in red is angle iron
    green is 4inch to hold brackets
    grey is mesh
    please give me sugestions
    bk1991


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    pjbrady1 wrote: »
    If you take the pump out of an old fridge and attached a plugged lead at one end and a hose with a tyre pump valve at the other. Hey presto you have a quick and very robust electric tyre pump. It will pump a rear tractor tyre in a few minutes. You have to seal tight the hosed end. Be careful you have not left anything live and exposed. Make sure your plug is properly fused with the correct ampage fuse.

    Another use for the rest of the fridge is to connect up a 150W bulb inside and you have an incubator for eggs. Works well, I've seen neighbors use some quite successfully.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    bk1991 wrote: »
    back of bucket.jpg

    botthmof bucket.jpg

    side of bucket.jpgthat is very handy the bale lifter on the loader i myself have just bough a welder and am getting neighbour to show me a few bits and peicies with it have been messing around with it for last week getting good welds and the slag is comeing of it self heard thats a good weld aslo penatrateing the steel good too .i have decided to make a bucket to load turf at the bog out of 2inch angle iron and 2inch flat along with 4inch flat to mount loader brackets and fill in areas with strong mesh this would be loaded from spread by hand and then tiped into trailer on road save bringing trailer into bog and save trowing turf into grain trailer and being light on road it wont ate the tires of the tractor i am attaching a few drawings i have done and will post finished product at some stage also on the list is bal extenstion to 12x7trailer to allow 3bales



    if u have any sugetsion on my design please feel free to tel me
    i know the drawing not too great but u get the idea
    all in red is angle iron
    green is 4inch to hold brackets
    grey is mesh
    please give me sugestions
    bk1991

    I look forward to seeing the finished product. I'm not the greatest welder myself so I enlist the help from a good friend who is a welder/fabricator by trade for some of the more structurely important welds and general advise.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    have any of ye done a welding course or ye all self trained what did you think of my drawings and what i steel i am useing any advice:pac:love hear what ye think.how does that bale lifter work out oposed to the one with the ram ?


    bk1991


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    heres two more things i just seen around the yard
    we attached a 2inch tap to front of slurry tank and have 2inch layflat hose with a 2inch round pipe bet flat makes fairly good pressure washer or for spraying water a distance irrigation ..if someone can hold the pipe:D


    the other pictures is of two work lights i fitted to the back of the tank as the tractor work lights shine of the tank barrle and also creats shadows
    there powered by the blue wire in the tanks wireing its the foglight wire and i have the blue wire of the socket on tractor switched so i can use beacons on trailers worklights ,extra lights on harvesters etc .


    how do i insert pictures into this
    i cant attach the pics now will put em up when u tel me how i put em here
    ????????????

    one majoir invention in future will be hedge cutter !!!! better set me standards high :pac:
    bk1991


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    bk1991 wrote: »
    how do i insert pictures into this
    i cant attach the pics now will put em up when u tel me how i put em here
    ????????????

    You need to have an account with a photo upload site such as pix.ie or similar then you insert the url of your pic, or the cut and paste option from the pix.ie site.
    You can always just attach the pictures like you did before using the normal file attachment option.
    bk1991 wrote: »
    have any of ye done a welding course or ye all self trained what did you think of my drawings and what i steel i am useing any advicepacman.giflove hear what ye think.how does that bale lifter work out oposed to the one with the ram ?

    I haven't done any coarses, still trying to learn by myself and getting pointers from those who know.

    The bale lifter works great but requires more precession when trying to stack than the one with the ram.

    Your bucket looks fine for one thats going to be hand filled. I don't know much about collecting turf, but why don't you make it so that you can scoop up a lot of the turf rather than hand filling?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    yea i was thinking that aswell id have use tiron as well as angle woulnt i like if is use angle for bottom the turf would get caught when tipping
    i want it light but strong . what u use the balehandler for stacking bales or loading bales ,hard to pick up bales that have saged with it id say and more prisision when driveing into bale in field


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    160


    1090634



    i put these pics up by pix.ie but there not comeing up here dono why


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    bk1991 wrote: »
    yea i was thinking that aswell id have use tiron as well as angle woulnt i like if is use angle for bottom the turf would get caught when tipping
    i want it light but strong . what u use the balehandler for stacking bales or loading bales ,hard to pick up bales that have saged with it id say and more prisision when driveing into bale in field

    Stacking and transporting so far, I carry a bale on another bale lifter on the back as well. Although as you can see above I'm building a trailer for wrapped bales so will use it for loading that also.

    No problem with saged bales as long as silage is well wilted and the bales are not left out in the field for weeks. Its actualy better with saged bales than when its mounted on the back as you can tip slightly more to get under them.

    Its no worse pressision wise in the field than it would be on the rear 3 point linkage. I can at this stage pick up bales without stopping or tearing them.

    bk1991 wrote: »
    i put these pics up by pix.ie but there not comeing up here dono why

    you are missing some of the url

    on pix.ie click on the picture that you want,
    then click sizes and choose the size that you want
    then scroll to the bottom of the page
    in the box marked forums cut and paste text into your post
    there is no need to use insert image option as pix.ie already have it wrapped in img tags

    here's an example from mine I added the *'s to stop it working
    [URL*=http://pix.ie/emaherx/1087413][*IMG]http://photos3.pix.ie/CC/55/CC55AADA5A834938860E09DA6869F59F-500.jpg[/IMG*][/URL*]


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    this is the pics of the hose on the slurry tank and aslo the work lights on back


    B94B8AB70017408FB456E92876C077E8-800.jpg

    F3338603BB034295B72BA7E3E2C6A182-800.jpg

    72C8F9332E874C22ABE6F1C1829A7BC1-800.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    out of curiosoty what welder are ye useing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I have an electric arc welder with 20 -330 amp range.
    But got a friend with a mig welder to do most of the welding on the trailer project.

    Thats a good idea using the fog light pin on trailer socket for extra lighting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    how would u rate ur welds ...has anything broke yet :D i have jsut started and theres more to it than it looks i got an arc inverter welder max amps 200 . whats your next project after the bale trailer .. u could sell that q/a attachment and the bale handler adapter no one else is doing em can the bale lhandler attachment take any other 3point linkage implements ... would be far handy for moveing implements around all ud need to do is put pin in topllink hole far handy ...who does the drawing and planing for ur projects

    have u entered in farmers journal or ther tullamore show inventions ?


    bk1991


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    bk1991 wrote: »
    how would u rate ur welds ...has anything broke yet :D i have jsut started and theres more to it than it looks i got an arc inverter welder max amps 200 . whats your next project after the bale trailer .. u could sell that q/a attachment and the bale handler adapter no one else is doing em can the bale lhandler attachment take any other 3point linkage implements ... would be far handy for moveing implements around all ud need to do is put pin in topllink hole far handy ...who does the drawing and planing for ur projects

    have u entered in farmers journal or ther tullamore show inventions ?


    bk1991

    See the welder beside the frame, That was from me repairing the frame rather than making it. although it only got damaged because I lost one of the pins so a lot more stress was exerted on the other two.

    My welding is OK but not professional by any means. Not sure if I'd like to see an x-ray of one of my welds but most things tend to stay together. If I'm not sure how to weld something or if it will be strong enough then I get a friend who is a welder by trade (and also spends a lot of time here helping with silage making etc anyway) to do it, he has better tools and a mobile welder (electric arc/MIG) and is a lot more knowledgeable. I also try to learn from him when he dose some work for me so that I can do it my self the next time.

    I do no drawing at all, usually just start making, the plan changes as I go along and changes again when I seek help from my welder friend (his input usually introduces new innovation/complication).

    No other implements fit the bale lifter adapter correctly but I have used it for moving others by attaching top link pin as you suggested.

    My next project is still part of my bale handling project (ie bale lifter adapter and wrapped bale trailer) is a set of wireless trailer lights so that I can hook and unhook from the trailer without getting down from the tractor. The whole outfit should significantly reduce the time to bring bales in from the field.

    I was also planning on making pallets using short RSJ's that can be lifted using the bale lifter for moving things around the yard.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    now i like the sound of wireless trailer lights how u gona make these apart from saveing time from getting down to plug them out better still u dont have to worry about pulling the plug out when its forgotten has happened many times by my father ... once the weld is strong enough i woulnt be too worried about the look of it


    its better bad looking and strong than looking great and week
    what do u find the hardset in welding any tips for beginenier

    how many bales will u carry on the trailer ? how many bales will u carry are u brakeing the axel on that
    as i said before i am going to put an extenstion on to my trailer its 12 ft long but it never manages to fit 3 bales long i am going to make a extendable rack at back that i can slid under the body an not take it off mabey it might fit 4 bales long of hay or straw and then 3 silage long could fit 6 on bottom and 4 on top
    but id love to know ur plans for wireless lights .woulnt mind doing em for my trailers and tank and all fare handy


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    bk1991 wrote: »
    now i like the sound of wireless trailer lights how u gona make these apart from saveing time from getting down to plug them out better still u dont have to worry about pulling the plug out when its forgotten has happened many times by my father ... once the weld is strong enough i woulnt be too worried about the look of it


    its better bad looking and strong than looking great and week
    what do u find the hardset in welding any tips for beginenier

    how many bales will u carry on the trailer ? how many bales will u carry are u brakeing the axel on that
    as i said before i am going to put an extenstion on to my trailer its 12 ft long but it never manages to fit 3 bales long i am going to make a extendable rack at back that i can slid under the body an not take it off mabey it might fit 4 bales long of hay or straw and then 3 silage long could fit 6 on bottom and 4 on top
    but id love to know ur plans for wireless lights .woulnt mind doing em for my trailers and tank and all fare handy

    I don't think I'd be much good for the old tips, probubly tell you how to do it wrong:)

    It will only cary four wrapped bales. I have a trailer which will carry 18 bales but it is no good for wrapped bales. I'm not going to bother with brakes for four bales.

    Still working on plans for wireless lights but it will involve off the shelf RF modules and digital encode/decoder setup. Rechargeable battery and LED lights for the trailer unit


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    emaherx wrote: »
    I don't think I'd be much good for the old tips, probubly tell you how to do it wrong:)

    It will only cary four wrapped bales. I have a trailer which will carry 18 bales but it is no good for wrapped bales. I'm not going to bother with brakes for four bales.

    Still working on plans for wireless lights but it will involve off the shelf RF modules and digital encode/decoder setup. Rechargeable battery and LED lights for the trailer unit


    how will the lights work how much of cost compared to standard lights
    have you sofd drive on ether of yer loaders ?
    i have fitted soft drive ie hydralic acumulator +valve and pipe dident use it much on rd yet so dont know how shell work

    bk1991


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    that is neat, I've made a few things myself probably the best one is a woodburning stove from the back end of a fordson major. The wood goes in where the lift cover was, air goes in where the brakes were, and smoke goes out where the pto was. It took a year from getting the idea to having it in the lounge! All the photos of making it are before I got a digital camera, I'll scan them and put them up.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    now that is an idea that i never heard of but sounds great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 576 ✭✭✭MrFoxman360


    The best thing I ever made was this fork to go on the three point linkage of my MF 35x. I originally just intended to use it for moving pallets, but it has proved invaluable at so many things since I made it.

    DSCF1662.jpg

    DSCF1661.jpg


    Best thing is that the materials were completely free ;). Its made from an old McHale hydraulic bale handler (that I aquired). The two legs with the tines were taken off and I cut the cross members from the frame of the handler. The lower linkage attachment points are tipping hinges from and old KP trailer, and the toplink part was from and old yard scraper, Even the pins I use are made from the pins holding the ram into the handler,... recycling at its best :D

    Was designed for lifting pallets and it does it perfectly, as the tines are the ideal distance apart, wide enough for max stability, but still lift a euro pallet from the narrow end. Was very useful for moving concrete pipes, loading clamps of turf directly onto a trailer in the bog, and all sorts of general moving and lifting. I'm sure if you had a big tractor on it you would brake it but it can easily handle any weight the 35 can lift, although the tines are rated for over three tons together


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    looks like a handy bit of machinery and it cost nothing only time and the welding are u trained in welding or just self trained ?...by looking at it ud know straight away its a machale :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    bk1991 wrote: »
    how will the lights work how much of cost compared to standard lights
    have you sofd drive on ether of yer loaders ?
    i have fitted soft drive ie hydralic acumulator +valve and pipe dident use it much on rd yet so dont know how shell work

    bk1991

    transmitter
    Tractor socket => optocouplers => digital encoder=> TX module => antenna.

    receiver
    antenna => Rx module => digital decoder =>transistor/relay driver stage=>trailer lights.

    This is the basic configuration, haven't fully costed it yet but, I reckon about 30 to 40 euro on top of your normal light set.

    Commercially available wireless lights cost between 300 - 400 euro.

    I haven't fitted any of the loaders with soft drive, but let us know what you think of yours when you test it properly.
    blue5000 wrote: »
    that is neat, I've made a few things myself probably the best one is a woodburning stove from the back end of a fordson major. The wood goes in where the lift cover was, air goes in where the brakes were, and smoke goes out where the pto was. It took a year from getting the idea to having it in the lounge! All the photos of making it are before I got a digital camera, I'll scan them and put them up.

    I'd like to see that, even a current picture of it in situe. Now that's true guntering:)
    The best thing I ever made was this fork to go on the three point linkage of my MF 35x. I originally just intended to use it for moving pallets, but it has proved invaluable at so many things since I made it.


    Best thing is that the materials were completely free ;). Its made from an old McHale hydraulic bale handler (that I aquired). The two legs with the tines were taken off and I cut the cross members from the frame of the handler. The lower linkage attachment points are tipping hinges from and old KP trailer, and the toplink part was from and old yard scraper, Even the pins I use are made from the pins holding the ram into the handler,... recycling at its best :D

    Was designed for lifting pallets and it does it perfectly, as the tines are the ideal distance apart, wide enough for max stability, but still lift a euro pallet from the narrow end. Was very useful for moving concrete pipes, loading clamps of turf directly onto a trailer in the bog, and all sorts of general moving and lifting. I'm sure if you had a big tractor on it you would brake it but it can easily handle any weight the 35 can lift, although the tines are rated for over three tons together

    That looks like a handy fork alright. You can't beat free materials. The trailer I am building shown earlier in the thread also cost me nothing in materials. only time, grinder disks and welding rods/wire.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    emaherx wrote: »
    transmitter
    Tractor socket => optocouplers => digital encoder=> TX module => antenna.

    receiver
    antenna => Rx module => digital decoder =>transistor/relay driver stage=>trailer lights.

    hard to understand how that works but i want to know how it works and id love see the final pictures what material did you use for the bale handler attachment might make one meself looks great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    The best thing I ever made was this fork to go on the three point linkage of my MF 35x. I originally just intended to use it for moving pallets, but it has proved invaluable at so many things since I made it.

    DSCF1662.jpg

    DSCF1661.jpg


    Best thing is that the materials were completely free ;). Its made from an old McHale hydraulic bale handler (that I aquired). The two legs with the tines were taken off and I cut the cross members from the frame of the handler. The lower linkage attachment points are tipping hinges from and old KP trailer, and the toplink part was from and old yard scraper, Even the pins I use are made from the pins holding the ram into the handler,... recycling at its best :D

    Was designed for lifting pallets and it does it perfectly, as the tines are the ideal distance apart, wide enough for max stability, but still lift a euro pallet from the narrow end. Was very useful for moving concrete pipes, loading clamps of turf directly onto a trailer in the bog, and all sorts of general moving and lifting. I'm sure if you had a big tractor on it you would brake it but it can easily handle any weight the 35 can lift, although the tines are rated for over three tons together

    have you any training in wedling or is it self learned


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    bk1991 wrote: »

    hard to understand how that works but i want to know how it works and id love see the final pictures what material did you use for the bale handler attachment might make one meself looks great

    Not sure I can make it much simpler without giving you a complete course in electronic design. Above is a basic breakdown of the connection order or stages of the design. I haven't got more detail as I haven't had time to source parts and draw the schematic let alone start to build anything.

    Basicly the design is to connect a transmitter to tractor light socket/power socket and a receiver and rechargeable battrey on the trailer.
    Pre built transmitter receiver stages could be bought but can be expensive. http://www.rfsolutions.co.uk/acatalog/Remote_Control_System_200_Series.html
    look at 200-433f transmitter and 210-433f receiver these would also require relays driven by the tractor before the transmitter and before the lights driven by the reciever. Data sheets available on the site above.

    I'm basicly going to build my own transmitter and receiver using parts aslo from RF Solutions. RX/TX modules RF620TA and RF620RA and encode/decoder HT12E and HT12D. relays and other minor parts will be sourced localy from Maplin or similar.

    hope this helped.



    The bale handler attacment is made from box steel sections with heavy gauge pipe for the 3 point linkage pins. I can't give you much more info becase your bale handler and loader will be diffrent to mine, so design will need to be based around them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 576 ✭✭✭MrFoxman360


    bk1991 wrote: »
    have you any training in wedling or is it self learned

    No, just picked it up from people who could weld, and practice and experimentation. You have to know the theory behind it though, and know what your supposed to do, as thats what will enable you to identify the problems with your welding and correct them.

    I got the car mechanics book about welding, does all stuff including Arc and MIG, both of which I use. The fork is all welded with the electric arc or stick welder.

    http://www.carmechanicsmag.co.uk/cgi-bin/purchase.cgi?s=books


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 576 ✭✭✭MrFoxman360


    And a few more things myself and my brother have made over the years to make life easier,

    DSCF1668.jpg

    An oil and diesel filter drainer, made from steel shipping crates with a paint roller tray inserted in the middle. A hole drilled in the tray, heated to form a slight funnel type shape and then a drum with funnel underneath

    DSCF1663.jpg

    A drill extentsion, which was made for cleaning up the bore of a stationary engine with a wire brush. The drill would only get down half way but the extentsion got all the way with ease. The chuck is a keyless one with the plastic coating removed, so its tightened with a spanner. It came from a broken cordless drill, shaft is a head stud from a ford feista.

    DSCF1664.jpg

    A home made starting handle to suit most old vintage tractors. 1/2 inch re bar with an old half inch socket welded on the end so the engine can be turned with a ratchet. Handy for timing an engine, setting valve clearences or seeing if its ceased or not :rolleyes:


    DSCF1666.jpg

    A special pullers made for removing tapered keys from keyways. Only works for keys with and exposed head, but that was what it was made for. made from and old starter clutch from a suzuki quadbike and works by gripping the head of the key on the edge of the inner circle and threading in the bolts,

    Like this:

    DSCF1100.jpg

    And a few of the various pullers we have made for special jobs, the two with the angle iron and the long bolts are especially handy

    DSCF1667.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Nice collection of simple ideas, thats exactly what this thread is ment to be about. I like the filter drainer and the key way puller especially.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    the filter drainer is simple but still serves its pourpose and the pullers aswell are great simple things saves a lot of time have any of ye made anything that has any compliciations like hydralics or electricts


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    tetsed the soft drive on the laoder today on the road with the 5ft heavey duty bucket along with 5ft hevyduty fork in it and it was like as if the loader was floting on air coulnt feel any bumps or shocks comeing back to tractor a great invention who ever taught of it so the idea of teh turf bucket is gne the hevy duty bucket will do as it wont make any diference on the weight with the soft drive fitted


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,410 ✭✭✭bbam


    Here's a spot sprayer I made up from the frame of an old cone fertilizer spreader and a plastic barrel, the 12v self priming pump was bought on E-bay and 15m of heavy garden hose..
    It has a quick release coupling so I can swap the lance for a sprayer nozzle mounted on the back of the frame..
    The lance works great but the nozzle is a bit slow..(upgrade to follow).
    Extremly useful for about €100

    pict0803.th.jpg

    Here are some links to websites I like to keep an eye into...
    While the implements are for smaller cat 1 tractors the workmanship and ideas shown here are unbeliveable...

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/

    http://www.machinebuilders.net/forum/default.asp


    We've bade the usual bale spikes for 3pt lift and front end loader, we even converted an old yard scraper into a "rough" land leveller...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,202 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Nice job. and thanks for the links


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    bbam wrote: »
    Here's a spot sprayer I made up from the frame of an old cone fertilizer spreader and a plastic barrel, the 12v self priming pump was bought on E-bay and 15m of heavy garden hose..
    It has a quick release coupling so I can swap the lance for a sprayer nozzle mounted on the back of the frame..
    The lance works great but the nozzle is a bit slow..(upgrade to follow).
    Extremly useful for about €100

    pict0803.th.jpg

    Here are some links to websites I like to keep an eye into...
    While the implements are for smaller cat 1 tractors the workmanship and ideas shown here are unbeliveable...

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/

    http://www.machinebuilders.net/forum/default.asp


    We've bade the usual bale spikes for 3pt lift and front end loader, we even converted an old yard scraper into a "rough" land leveller...

    id love see pictures of the bale spikes and the land leveler !!!!!!
    them websites have ouite good stuff on em


    bk1991


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    Thought I'd show this. I made it about 20 years ago and it's still going strong. It's basically a barrell of concrete that can be picked up / dropped without getting off the tractor, no pins, hydraulics or moving parts.

    The 'Nine hole Bar' is left on the arms when using and the lower plate swings in against the drawbar. It saves me having to have an extra tractor when loading slurry, gravel etc....
    Thats a gate hanging iron on top, in case it falls over and has to be lifted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    pakalasa wrote: »
    Thought I'd show this. I made it about 20 years ago and it's still going strong. It's basically a barrell of concrete that can be picked up / dropped without getting off the tractor, no pins, hydraulics or moving parts.

    The 'Nine hole Bar' is left on the arms when using and the lower plate swings in against the drawbar. It saves me having to have an extra tractor when loading slurry, gravel etc....
    Thats a gate hanging iron on top, in case it falls over and has to be lifted.


    must put up pics of the weight we had made years ago much same princable as urs with 9 hole bar but our one is made that u can ad more weight with cage on to plus has hitch on back for pulling trailers
    proves great when trying to pull trailers or potatoes out of muddy feilds the amount of traction gained
    :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭bk1991


    does any of ye know where i could get the spikes and rolers for makeing a bale handler ??????
    such as this http://www.cashels.net/HydBaleHandler.htm?????????


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